Buffing?

[ChrisA Edwards]

I turned my first 4 bowls just before Christmas.

For the finishing process, I came across the Beall buffing system, so I finished my bowls by sanding down through the grits to 320 and then applying a 3 wipe on coats of General Finishes "Wood Bowl Finish" with a little, very light 600 grit sanding between coats.

After that I rubbed it with steel wool.

I the used the Beall 3 wheel buffing system, going between Tripoli, White Diamond and the a touch of Carnauba Wax.

I was happy with the results.

My question, over the last couple of evenings, I came across Yorkshire Grit and it seems to be very popular.

Would I just use the Yorkshire Grit after sanding and then still buff with the Beall system or use the Yorkshire Grit instead.

I guess I'm totally ignorant in the steps of using Yorkshire Grit or if in my case, it would be of any benefit.

Thanks.

[Richard Coers]

Before you get too excited about Beall buffing bowls, you should do some research. Here's the first Google hit I got to explain a spotting issue I had in the past. It's not the only one. Try a sample on a scrap piece of wood if you want to prove it for yourself. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?139814-water-spots-on-carnauba-wax

[ChrisA Edwards]

Thank you for that, I learnt something already..

[Thomas Canfield]

I use a Tripoli buffing wheel on all my turnings after sanding to 400. I use a souped up Danish Oil (extra gloss varnish) wiped on/off for 2 to 4 coats allowing to dry and buffing with Tripoli after each coat including final. I then add Renaisance Wax and give a light buff at a reduced speed. The final finish holds up very well against finger prints and occasional damp cloth. I do not use the white diamond or carnuba wax. I also use an adapter shaft, 1"x 8" long for midi lathe and 1-1/4"x 12" long for Powermatic 3520B lathe. The 3 wheel on a shaft are not suited for bowls of any size and cannot get inside hollow forms. You need a variety of buffing wheels and buffs for sure.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Yes, I also have the Beall Bowl Buffs for inside.

http://www.bealltool.com/images/product_shots/bowlbuff.jpg

[Michael Mills]

Take with a grain or shaker or salt.
JMO
The two main ones are Yorkshire and Ack's. To me they both seem to about the same but I haven't used them.
AFAIK they both say to sand to 240 or or 320. Then apply two coats of sanding sealer. Then sand. Then apply the past and wipe in. Wipe in with the lathe running. Then wipe both off until nothing comes off on a clean paper towel.
Will produce a baby bu.. smooth finish of about 1000 grit.
Before that time I could sand with 400, 600, and 900. If I wanted a baby bu.. smoothness I could apply wax and achieve the same thing.
They both contain wax and Ack's says to use with any oil finish, Yorkshire says to use with the finish of your choice so it can be used with a water base finish over wax? This was the last time I checked and instructions may have changed.

It seemed to have started shorty after Daniel Vilariro made a video of his own paste to replace EEE in 2015.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIiQJVLLbvk

So my opinion is to use the buffing system you have or try Daniel's mix.

You may try a higher burnishing gloss known of "OB Shine juice" unless you want a really really glass finish. Making for OB Shine juice in probably 100 youtube videos. See Capn' Eddie for probably the first.

[Mike Nathal]

The above criticism of buffing is really a criticism of carnauba wax and not buffing. But are sanding paste and buffing redundant? The answer is yes and no. Sanding paste is meant to refine the wood (or resin) surface from ~240 grit to ~1000 grit, followed by a finish of some type. (Note, two of the pastes say to use sanding sealer before the paste, not after. The other two pastes (EEE, and Dr. Kirks, mention sanding sealer as optional). Buffing is traditionally performed on a finished piece. One method I use is to wet sand with walnut oil or tung oil to 400 grit, and let the oil cure for some time, perhaps weeks. At this point you have a matte sheen, quite pleasing and very smooth. Buffing this (I use all 3 wheels) brings the finish up to semi-gloss, also quite pleasing. I also use lacquer, water base poly, or oil base poly to build film finishes on top of dry sanded or wet sanded wood (400 grit either way). Anywhere between 3 and 10 coats, depending on the effect I am looking for. After curing, I will again buff with all 3 wheels. Although not typically done, you can buff bare wood. I have tried it, it can take a 400 grit finish to 800 grit or so. Adding a film finish after the buffing protects the wood and maintains the sheen. Buffing the film finish is still needed.
So both the paste and buffing can refine a bare or sealed wood from 240 grit to a finer surface. But using sanding paste or buffing on bare or sealed wood usually requires a finish on top, which could benefit from buffing, depending on the chosen finish. Buffing is the greatest thing since sliced bread for refining a film finish. I will mention one other thing. I turn mostly green wood. By the time the wood is ready for finishing, it is usually warped so it is no longer round. This means I do most of my finishing off the lathe. Sanding paste is then no longer an option, although buffing still is.

[robert baccus]

Find a car finishing products store. Or a good car parts store. Obtain some high quality liquid compounds in various grits and go up the grits like on sand-paper use. follow with a good softened carnuba wax buffed on foa a Ferrari finish.