What are the underappreciated shop tool/supplies in your shop?

[Mike Allen1010]

Like many hand tool woodworker's I obsess about all my cutting tools – need to have all the appropriate types and ensure their super sharp. However, there are some seemingly "pedestrian" things that are essential in my shop:

Sandpaper: I confess I have a snobby preference for "hand planed" surfaces – come on for me that's one of the essences of hand tool woodworking a shimmering surface fresh off the sharp plane blade. That said, when it comes to breaking sharp edges, smoothing over imperfections, etc. I couldn't do without 220 grit sandpaper.

Super Glue: I am a novice Carver and in my feeble attempts I frequently break off pieces of the carving in a futile effort to shape them. Super Glue is magic mistake eraser – a couple drops and some pressure and the broken pieces is fixed like new.

Putty knife/toothpicks: I'd like to think all my joinery is perfect and mating surfaces fit 100% correctly. However my lack of self-confidence that that's correct means I typically use more glue than I need. Putty knife and toothpicks are great for cleaning up the squeeze out of excess glue.

Masking tape: because I lack confidence in the accuracy my joinery, I hope to compensate with clamp pressure during glue up to make everything look okay. When it comes to irregularly shaped pieces that defy clamping geometry, like gluing a replacement piece to a broken top horn of a handsaw, masking tape is a lifesaver – allows you to create the appropriate clamping pressure/geometry on irregular pieces. Bonus, as I am old and fat, my skin is increasingly thin and vulnerable. As a consequence I regularly get small cuts on hand/fingers that create unhelpful bloodstains on the work piece. Masking tape is a fantastic shop "bandage" - Readily available, super sticky and typically falls off about the same time the cut is healed.

Spray cans: I hate finishing. In my experience only bad things can happen that jeopardize the hundreds of hours of work you invest in the project. Spray cans are awesome! There is no brushes to clean, it's easy to apply multiple multiple thin coats to irregularly shaped objects and you don't even have to get your hands dirty!

What are the essential elements of your shop you can't live without?



Thanks, Mike

[John K Jordan]

What are the essential elements of your shop you can't live without?


I'd hate to be without heat and air conditioning. :)

[Don Dorn]

My broom - it's used several times sometimes per project. We don't think about it, but it's a tool that helps us to work in a clean area.

[Andrew Hughes]

I agree with everything above.
I would also like to add my shop fans and small files for shaping.

[Andrew Seemann]

Baby wipes. Even though I haven't had a kid in diapers for over 10 years. I still keep these on hand. I don't have running water in my shop, and they are great for cleaning up hands and cleaning films of oil and grease, like when tuning up a plane. And they are about the only thing that will remove soot.

Area rugs/anti-fatigue mats. Much needed relief from the concrete floor. I really need to move putting in a wood floor higher on the priority list.

Beater cabinet scraper. I have a cheap scraper I use to clean glue and finish off the formica of the assembly table. Also for scraping dried glue and other things that could mess up my good scrapers. I also have an old plastic handled Handyman 3/4" chisel special for this purpose.

Old LazyBoy chair. Sometimes you just need to stop, put your feet up in front of the fire, and take a break.

[Jim Koepke]

More like the unsung helpers of the shop. They are all appreciated, but seldom mentioned.

Blocks of candle wax for rubbing the sole of my planes.

Nitryl gloves for when things are going to get messy

A cheap paint brush for knocking the dust and shavings off of a plane before it is put on the shelf.

jtk

[Steve Eure]

Band-Aids. Paper towels and tape in place of band-aids.

[Frederick Skelly]

Agree with all of the above. Can't think of any more supplies, but here are some tools: "squares", "rules", marking gauges/knives, bench dogs, holdfasts and clamps.

[Larry Frank]

A good pair of tweezers

[Phil Mueller]

In addition to many already mentioned, those wooden stir sticks from a coffee shop...works great for finish stirring, shimming and occasional “gap fill”. My oil pot makes it easy to give every tool a quick wipe after use. I also keep a supply of Q-tips which are great for glue squeeze out in tight places. I keep an old cigar box filled with half used sandpaper pieces which gets used a lot, as well as another cigar box of small veneer pieces for fixing that all too often skinny tenon.

A few artists palette knives work great for smoothing out wood filler, epoxy and the like. A roll of that pink protective paper for covering the work bench during gluing or finishing. And a deck of playing cards which make for excellent shims.

[ken hatch]

For this OF: Lamps and flashlights with reading glasses and magnifiers in all corners of the shop. At least one calculator on every bench and someone turned me on to a great mechanical pencil, I wish I could remember who, which reminds me note pads scattered around as well.

ken

[William Fretwell]

Biscotti for my afternoon tea break. Taken for granted until I run out.

[Bill Carey]

All of the above (except the Biscotti - sorry William) and:

Pro splinter removal kit https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-SPLINT.XX

Surgical tubing for clamping weirdness.

Sandvik metal sander bought 30 years ago and have not put on the replacement pad yet.
423041

My office/retreat on the second floor of the shop.
423042

[chris carter]

Chip collector. Seriously. It almost never gets used on a power tool, but it's great for vacuuming up shavings and sawdust. I mostly use a broom, but getting under the bench, in the tool tray (just push tools to one side, vacuum, then push to the other side and repeat), those dog holes that don't go all the way through like on a vise chop, the tools that sit on the shelf below your bench, etc.

[Steven Mikes]

My quiet[ish] air compressor. I use the air to blow dust and debris off hand tools before putting them back in the cabinet.

[Rob Young]

Fireplace (winter), bonfire/firepit (summer)

[Philip Glover]

I consider my bench a tool. Every so often I think "what would I do without it"?
For me it falls into the "under appreciated" category.

Phil

[Jeff Wittrock]

Sparrows.
They don't do much useful in the shop, but it is fun to watch them playing in the wood shavings looking for birdseed I have dropped on the floor.

[Derek Cohen]

Oh, what is used ever time I am in the work shop? ... bandaids. Every time!

Regards from Berlin

Derek

[Tom Bussey]

Paper towels and Handy wipes. I use handy wipes to wipe on finish. I cut it to get the size I usually use. I will look in to baby wipes

[John K Jordan]

Paper towels and Handy wipes. I use handy wipes to wipe on finish. I cut it to get the size I usually use. I will look in to baby wipes

I agree about the paper towels. I use a zillion at the lathe and elsewhere for solvent, finishes, glue cleanup and more. The problem is I often don't need an entire sheet so I would tear off a corner, eventually leaving a ragged partial sheet on the roll.

What I do now is use a sharp fillet knife to cut the roll up into smaller pieces. Those I use the most are in a dispenser over the lathe, cut maybe 2.5" wide, right near the rolls of sandpaper. Now I just tear of a few inches as needed.

423098

On my workbench I also keep a roll cut in half. When using the 1/2 sheet paper towel rolls this gives me a nice, clean square piece.

JKJ

[Andrew Seemann]

Paper towels and Handy wipes. I use handy wipes to wipe on finish. I cut it to get the size I usually use. I will look in to baby wipes

I'd recommend the unscented kind. The regular ones immediately bring memories of changing dirty diapers:)

[Jonathan Elliott]

That is brilliant John!

[steven c newman]

423116
Shop stool....I am on my second one, in fact.....

And, when Igor doesn't use it to ride home on.:D...a shop broom.

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks all for the great suggestions!

I'd also like to add the tiny plastic salsa/hot sauce containers from my favorite taco shop – excellent small batches of glue/finish, mixing up epoxy etc. Probably goes with the wooden coffee stir sticks – I have to remember to leave the big tip next time to compensate!

Cheers, Mike

[Frederick Skelly]

That is brilliant John!

+1 on brilliant. I can use this tip!

[James Pallas]

Wax paper sheets in the dispensing box. Grab as you need for under a glue up and such. No fumbling with a roll grab and go.

[John K Jordan]

Wax paper sheets in the dispensing box. Grab as you need for under a glue up and such. No fumbling with a roll grab and go.

Aluminum HVAC ducting tape.
When I want to mix a little epoxy I tear off a piece of aluminum tape. Squeeze out and mix on the tape, glue my part, then leave the tape with any leftover glue. When the epoxy on the tape is set up I know the epoxy in the joint is set up.

(BTW, I use the wax paper sheets in the box as well for lots of things!)

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks all for the great suggestions!

I'd also like to add the tiny plastic salsa/hot sauce containers from my favorite taco shop – excellent small batches of glue/finish, mixing up epoxy etc. Probably goes with the wooden coffee stir sticks – I have to remember to leave the big tip next time to compensate!

Cheers, Mike

My favorite source of tacos and such is my own kitchen. Those little cans that the fire roasted chilis are in make great epoxy mixers on the bottom or a yellow glue on the inside. They are also great for holding screws and other small parts.

jtk

[Larry Frank]

Small plastic pill cup...I use them to mix epoxy with a small digital scale to measure

[Randy Chesnut]

Everybody needs a break once in a while, no matter how much fun they're having. Although not a power tool user, I still don't mix my whisky with woodworking. Therefore, my old (pre-millennial) La Pavoni espresso machine is probably my most appreciated "under the radar" bit of shop kit.
423231

[Jim Ritter]

A small artist palette knife. I use one all the time.
Jim

[Ted Calver]

Aluminum HVAC ducting tape....

I also use it to label all my plastic bins.

[steven c newman]

A camera.

How else can I post all the pictures I have? At least there will be proof I actually did something, while in the shop....:rolleyes:

[Robert Engel]

Most underappreciated: Running water and a sink.

Most wished for: A toilet and shower. I live in a rural area would have to install tank and small drainfield. :o

[Bill Carey]

The fleece lined jeans my wife bought me for xmas. How did I live without them for so long??

[michael langman]

If it has not been mentioned then my opti-visor would be the most important and needed tool in my shop. My eyes aren't what they used to be, along with just about the rest of me!

[William Fretwell]

I just spilt my beer!! Can I have 4.5” ?

[Rob Luter]

I agree about the paper towels. I use a zillion at the lathe and elsewhere for solvent, finishes, glue cleanup and more. The problem is I often don't need an entire sheet so I would tear off a corner, eventually leaving a ragged partial sheet on the roll.

What I do now is use a sharp fillet knife to cut the roll up into smaller pieces. Those I use the most are in a dispenser over the lathe, cut maybe 2.5" wide, right near the rolls of sandpaper. Now I just tear of a few inches as needed.

423098

On my workbench I also keep a roll cut in half. When using the 1/2 sheet paper towel rolls this gives me a nice, clean square piece.

JKJ

Great tip John. I carved up my towel roll this morning. Much less wasteful.

423519

[jeff norris 2011]

I guess I a few. First this little bench, I sit in it, stand on it, saw on it, use as a table etc etc. the picture does not do it justice, but as the base is spayed out it is super stable and the size/weight is just perfect.

423532


Next up - rubber gloves. Having this on hand all the time is great for keeping my hands clean and safe for solvents etc:

423533
Next up cheap safety glasses. My local tool store often sells them $2. I have about 10 pairs in the shop near tools so they are never far away. I don't have AC so on hot days putting glasses up on my sweaty head, doesn't work and having them at arms reach is great. I take similar approach with pencils & measuring tapes as I was always looking for them so I made sure I had an abundance.

423534
Last is my shop TV. sound a little silly, but it always made me more productive. I watch the game in the shop now and putter, maybe sand something or organize stuff etc.

423535

[Andrew Seemann]

Electric pencil sharpener, an old office style, plug in the wall type. I grabbed it from work when they were throwing out old equipment. I use it all the time. It is right by where I lay out cuts and joinery and draft. I can't imagine being without it anymore. I'm always just seconds away from having a sharp pencil again whenever I want.

[Jim Koepke]

Electric pencil sharpener, an old office style, plug in the wall type. I grabbed it from work when they were throwing out old equipment. I use it all the time. It is right by where I lay out cuts and joinery and draft. I can't imagine being without it anymore. I'm always just seconds away from having a sharp pencil again whenever I want.

My pencil sharpening joy was finding a used hand crank pencil sharpener. My other pencil related tool is an electric eraser from my drafting days. A lot of my old drafting tools come in handy for layout and when drawing out plans for a complex project.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Pencils.....seems every fall, when the "School Supply Lists" come out....I pick up a LARGE package of them yellow #2 pencils.....now, IF I can just find the last batch I bought.....


Shop Rags.....them red/orange thingys.....used for wiping things down, cleaning my hands....and, since the washer/dryer are right there in the shop....I can throw them in and washer them back up...bleach is optional....

before any project gets started, need to do an inventory of the fasteners IN the shop...and check on the glue supply.....hate to run out in the middle of something...

[Jim Koepke]

Pencils.....seems every fall, when the "School Supply Lists" come out....I pick up a LARGE package of them yellow #2 pencils.....now, IF I can just find the last batch I bought.....

A few years ago the opportunity came to buy about a half dozen boxes of #1 pencils.

Now a #2 seems a little hard to me.

jtk

[Doug Weiner]

Kuru Toga pencil perhaps. It has a gear drive that rotates the led so it wears evenly.

[Jim Koepke]

Kuru Toga pencil perhaps. It has a gear drive that rotates the led so it wears evenly.

In drafting class (spelled draughting back then) we were taught to turn the pencil as we drew a line or lettered to wear the lead evenly.

jtk

[Paul F Franklin]

A lot of my old drafting tools come in handy for layout and when drawing out plans for a complex project.

I often use my old eraser shield when I am filling nail holes, especially on unfinished open grain woods. The shield helps avoid getting filler in the grain surrounding the hole.

[Rob Luter]

I started my career as a board draftsman. I’m glad I kept all my tools. Especially the lead holders aka chuck pencils. They make for very precise layout work.

[Jim Koepke]

I often use my old eraser shield when I am filling nail holes, especially on unfinished open grain woods. The shield helps avoid getting filler in the grain surrounding the hole.

That is great improvising with what is at hand.

Another way to hide the nails is to 'blind nail' them > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?232798

423599

It is a little more work. It looks so much better than filler.

jtk

[Günter VögelBerg]

Paper plates for holding glue and a disposable glue brush

Blue tape

Chalk

[Bob Jones 5443]

Set of precision shims. I have used these for a variety of datum-surface testing:
1) to estimate (along with winding sticks) how many stop shavings might be needed to remove the last bit of wind in a board that's already been run through the jointer, and has then acclimated for a few days.
2) to fine-tune the hardwood shim for band-saw tenons
3) to assess gaps under a precision straight edge for flatness-checking final parts, my bench, and various surfaces in the shop
4) to run along the fence, to fine-tune the setup for certain crucial table saw or router table cuts

The shims aren't cheap: fifty bucks for an accurate set of fourteen (14) 5" x 20" plastic shims, from 0.0005" to 0.030". (If you're interested, I can tell you where to get them.) But I suppose I appreciate them when precision counts, so maybe they aren't really under-appreciated after all.

[john zulu]

Safety glasses

[Mark Daily]

All of the above (except the Biscotti - sorry William) and:

Pro splinter removal kit https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-SPLINT.XX

Surgical tubing for clamping weirdness.

Sandvik metal sander bought 30 years ago and have not put on the replacement pad yet.
423041

My office/retreat on the second floor of the shop.
423042

Bill, thanks for the link. Had no idea such a thing existed but I’m ordering one now.

[Mark Daily]

My pencil sharpening joy was finding a used hand crank pencil sharpener. My other pencil related tool is an electric eraser from my drafting days. A lot of my old drafting tools come in handy for layout and when drawing out plans for a complex project.

jtk

Thanks Jim. I never knew electric erasers existed, now suddenly I need one lol!

[Mark Daily]

Paper plates for holding glue and a disposable glue brush

Blue tape

Chalk

Speaking of chalk, I recently discovered Hagaromo fulltouch chalk at Amazon. (Reputed to be the best chalk in the world, lol) It is wrapped in plastic to keep your fingers clean and it doesn’t have hard spots that cause cheap chalk to skip. Writes so much better, I threw out my Crayola chalk. Comes in colors too.

$7.00/12 or $19.90/72



423825

[Paul F Franklin]

I'm going to try that chalk Mark, thanks!

I'm going to say my veritas stop rule: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/61607-stop-rules

I find I use the stop rule more often than my rule or square. Anytime I need a precise mark within the range of the tool I use it, especially when making repetitive marks. The edge of the tool guides your marking knife or pencil so there is no issue with a slightly angled tick mark like you can get when you mark using a rule. Also ideal for taking a measurement and then duplicating it elsewhere, like a joint offset or the like, when having multiple things match is more important than an exact measurement. It has a vernier scale so you can read it to a 64th or finer if you need to (admittedly, not often) without the main scale being cluttered with tiny graduations. Of course you can use a combo square in this fashion too, but I find the stop rule easier and faster to use, and it has a wider marking surface.

Incra makes a plastic marking gauge along the same lines that is also very handy as long as the 1/32" stops built into it are good enough, but the stop rule is a much more nicely made and precise tool.

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim. I never knew electric erasers existed, now suddenly I need one lol!

During my first attempt to purchase one at an art supply store, the clerk was a bit taken aback wondering why someone would be too lazy to just use a pink pearl eraser. When it was explained that for drafting one often has to erase a lot of lines, he kind of got it, but it still took a visit to another store to purchase mine.

If you can get one of the old metal ones they are likely a bit better than the modern plastic models. Even if it is only because they are easer to take apart. A wire to the switch broke on mine and it was a pain to take it apart to repair.

jtk

[David Carroll]

I keep a stack of business cards handy, they are useful for a million things.

They are great shims! mine are about 0.015-inches thick, so nearly 1/64th inch. I use them to even-up cabinet door reveals for setting hinges. I put one under a saw blade when flush cutting dowels or through tenons so I don't gall the finished surface, they make great clamping cauls. Of course I can write down measurements and do some quick ciphering on them and pick my teeth too! If a board I'm surfacing is rocking annoyingly they'll wedge it up nicely. There's probably a dozen other uses for them, that I've forgotten. Heck you can even hand them out to people so they remember who you are and how to get in touch with you!

DC

[Jim Koepke]

I keep a stack of business cards handy, they are useful for a million things.
[edited]
DC

Old business cards are great for spreading glue. Mine do not get as much use these days since starting to collect all those plastic credit card sized things that come in the mail.

Those are great for all the things my outdated business cards used to do. They also make a good shoe horn.

jtk

[Mark Daily]

I'm going to try that chalk Mark, thanks!

I'm going to say my veritas stop rule: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/61607-stop-rules

I find I use the stop rule more often than my rule or square. Anytime I need a precise mark within the range of the tool I use it, especially when making repetitive marks. The edge of the tool guides your marking knife or pencil so there is no issue with a slightly angled tick mark like you can get when you mark using a rule. Also ideal for taking a measurement and then duplicating it elsewhere, like a joint offset or the like, when having multiple things match is more important than an exact measurement. It has a vernier scale so you can read it to a 64th or finer if you need to (admittedly, not often) without the main scale being cluttered with tiny graduations. Of course you can use a combo square in this fashion too, but I find the stop rule easier and faster to use, and it has a wider marking surface.

Incra makes a plastic marking gauge along the same lines that is also very handy as long as the 1/32" stops built into it are good enough, but the stop rule is a much more nicely made and precise tool.

Sure thing Paul! I didn’t know about stop rules- I’ve been using my double square but the stop rule is longer. Something else to buy now...

[Mark Daily]

During my first attempt to purchase one at an art supply store, the clerk was a bit taken aback wondering why someone would be too lazy to just use a pink pearl eraser. When it was explained that for drafting one often has to erase a lot of lines, he kind of got it, but it still took a visit to another store to purchase mine.

If you can get one of the old metal ones they are likely a bit better than the modern plastic models. Even if it is only because they are easer to take apart. A wire to the switch broke on mine and it was a pain to take it apart to repair.

jtk

Makes sense Jim- older metal tools are certainly more durable than today’s plastics.

[Mark Daily]

I keep a stack of business cards handy, they are useful for a million things.

They are great shims! mine are about 0.015-inches thick, so nearly 1/64th inch. I use them to even-up cabinet door reveals for setting hinges. I put one under a saw blade when flush cutting dowels or through tenons so I don't gall the finished surface, they make great clamping cauls. Of course I can write down measurements and do some quick ciphering on them and pick my teeth too! If a board I'm surfacing is rocking annoyingly they'll wedge it up nicely. There's probably a dozen other uses for them, that I've forgotten. Heck you can even hand them out to people so they remember who you are and how to get in touch with you!

DC

Great tip David but a little late for me. After about 10 years in a drawer I just threw out a box of unused cards. Today’s trash pickup showed up before I read this. :mad:

[Keith Outten]

Incra Gage. Precision cast saw tooth rack locks the gauge in at exact 1/32" steps


https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31dDboaZwOL._AC_.jpg

[John K Jordan]

Paper plates for holding glue and a disposable glue brush

Blue tape

Chalk

And speaking of blue tape, when building my shop I discovered this green masking tape:
3M Scotch 2060 Masking Tape for Hard-to-Stick Surfaces, also listed as tape for Rough Surfaces
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MHNG47G

This is not the green masking tape you find at Home Depot, painter's tape, Frog tape, etc. This stuff is advertised as sticking to concrete block, brick, concrete, wood. I use it in the shop everywhere I want a label on a rough-sawn block of wood, storage box, and more. I track air-drying by writing the weights/dates on a piece of this tape. At the lathe to hold things more securely as needed. To hold parts together while glue sets. We use it in the house to put labels on bags and packages that go in the freezer.

The instructions mention removing it within 5 days but for things in the shop I've removed it after several years with no problem although I wouldn't use it on fine finished wood surfaces.

Another favorite tape: Gaffers tape, the good stuff not the cheap imitation. Can be used on almost anything but will come off without hurting the surface or leaving a residue. Widely used in the film and video production industries to position cables and things.

And a double-sided PSA tape: Fastcap Speedtape. This stuff is very thin and clear. I use it for temporary use on jigs and such but with a little pressure and time the glue cures and gets stronger.
https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-T20034-5039-Speed-Tape/dp/B006SJIA0Y

JKJ

[Bill Carey]

the 500 count box of tongue depressors I bought 2 years ago - use them as stir sticks, glue spreaders, epoxy mixing, shims, spacers, etc

[Jim Koepke]

the 500 count box of tongue depressors I bought 2 years ago - use them as stir sticks, glue spreaders, epoxy mixing, shims, spacers, etc

My solution to this is to save the sticks from popsicles.

My epoxy stirrers are small stainless steel spatulas that clean off easily.

Something one of my managers taught me years ago when we were printing with epoxy inks was to save any left over to check on how it was hardening before tossing it in the trash.

jtk

[John K Jordan]

I'm going to say my veritas stop rule: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/rules/61607-stop-rules

I find I use the stop rule more often than my rule or square. Anytime I need a precise mark within the range of the tool I use it, especially when making repetitive marks. The edge of the tool guides your marking knife or pencil so there is no issue with a slightly angled tick mark like you can get when you mark using a rule. Also ideal for taking a measurement and then duplicating it elsewhere, like a joint offset or the like, when having multiple things match is more imp...

Oh no, I "need" one now too.

Just wondering - I'm assuming the end is exactly 1" from the inch marks. From the picture it looks like the zero marks for the inch and metric scales may not be exactly aligned - is it such that the end is 25mm from the metric zero?

Rats, they are out of stock at the moment!

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

Oh no, I "need" one now too.

Just wondering - I'm assuming the end is exactly 1" from the inch marks. From the picture it looks like the zero marks for the inch and metric scales may not be exactly aligned - is it such that the end is 25mm from the metric zero?

Rats, they are out of stock at the moment!

JKJ

That also made me wonder. Looking back at the page it appears the vernier scale on the slide should take you back to the zero point for inch or metric on either side of the scale.

For me, this replicates the most common use for an old Stanley Odd Jobs tool:

423900

Simple tool for simple work.

jtk

[Paul F Franklin]

Just wondering - I'm assuming the end is exactly 1" from the inch marks. From the picture it looks like the zero marks for the inch and metric scales may not be exactly aligned - is it such that the end is 25mm from the metric zero?


The first vernier mark (closest to the end) is the reference point. When the sliding bar is flush, the first vernier mark will line up with zero, for both metric and imperial sides. The two zeros do align, even though it doesn't look like in the photo. So you have to get used to reading at the vernier mark, not the end, but it's a short learning curve.

[Bill Carey]

Oh no, I "need" one now too.

Just wondering - I'm assuming the end is exactly 1" from the inch marks. From the picture it looks like the zero marks for the inch and metric scales may not be exactly aligned - is it such that the end is 25mm from the metric zero?

Rats, they are out of stock at the moment!

JKJ


Ha - I must have bought the last one this morning! :D

[Tom M King]

My K&E electric eraser still works as good as when it was new in the '70's, as does the Vemco drafting machine. I did have to change the board cover a few years ago, as it was starting to get some old age sagging.

[Bill Carey]

My K&E electric eraser still works as good as when it was new in the '70's, as does the Vemco drafting machine. I did have to change the board cover a few years ago, as it was starting to get some old age sagging.


Me too. Oh, you mean the board cover. Never mind.

[Don Penniman]

I jealously guard my stash of old 5 1/4" floppy disks (remember those?) for fine shimming purposes.

[John K Jordan]

I jealously guard my stash of old 5 1/4" floppy disks (remember those?) for fine shimming purposes.

You need more? I probably have some 8" floppy disks too. (I think I was the first on my block to have dual 8" drives on a homebuilt computer in the early '70s - cost a mere $2000 and $10 a disk. The 1.2meg storage was so incredible.)

[Terry Wawro]

Something not mentioned yet that I find very useful is a cheap (Woods 32555WD) remote control used for the dust collector. Now I know you can buy the fancy expensive ones made just for the shop, but this one is only $12 at Amazon and has lasted four years so far without a problem. I just clip the remote to my shop apron so it's always handy, no matter what machine I'm currently at.

[John K Jordan]

Something not mentioned yet that I find very useful is a cheap (Woods 32555WD) remote control used for the dust collector. Now I know you can buy the fancy expensive ones made just for the shop, but this one is only $12 at Amazon and has lasted four years so far without a problem. I just clip the remote to my shop apron so it's always handy, no matter what machine I'm currently at.

I use a similar one on my 5hp ClearVue - bought three to get extra keyfob remotes and keep them at key locations on the shop walls. The receiver energizes a contactor (relay) which switches 220v to the DC.

Shop apron, what's that?

JKJ

[mike stenson]

Dermabond

10

[steven c newman]

Get a good Shop broom, a hand broom( foxtail?) and a decent dust pan.......and a trash can with wheels....

[kent wardecke]

Band-Aids. Paper towels and tape in place of band-aids.
Haha ha too funny

[kent wardecke]

My HF digital caliper. I try not to make a fuss over 0.01 inch but hey 3/4" isn't the same thing as 0.77 inch

[Axel de Pugey]

A big fat black lead!

I am using a 5.6mm 6B lead for a mechanical pencil to mark high spots when planing a face, jointing an edge or any other marking that should stand out on the wood.
I am constantly reaching for it, cheap and super useful to me.

426015

[bill epstein]

Biscotti for my afternoon tea break. Taken for granted until I run out.

Don't forget Jammy Dodgers! World Market has them here in the Colonies.

Under-appreciated by most, but invaluable to me, Stanley Block Plane bought right off the shelf at Home Depot 20 years ago. If, after countless passes over dried glue, miles of broken jointed edges, and too many badly cross cut end grains trued an LN or Veritas makes a better full width shaving, I want to see it.

[Aiden Pettengill]

Superglue for when you cut yourself!

[mike stenson]

Superglue for when you cut yourself!
Dermabond is sterile, doesn't sting as much and the applicators are superior IME ;)

[John K Jordan]

Dermabond is sterile, doesn't sting as much and the applicators are superior IME ;)

I sometimes buy 3M Vetbond but it's pretty expensive.

The hen sliced open by a hawk a few months ago is alive and well today because of superglue.

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

The hen sliced open by a hawk a few months ago is alive and well today because of superglue.

That would have likely worked on our cat that came in with some nasty cuts left by an unknown assailant. SWMBO decided he needed to go to the animal clinic.

jtk