Experience with tankless LP water heater

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

I am looking for your experience with tankless LP water heater. I know, it is not money wise spent, expensive compared to regular electric water heater. But it is a endless, to the point, hot water supply - this is what I am looking for.
I have experience to use it back 35 years ago in Russia. It is a very popular source of hot water back then and it is very popular in Europe.
Right now I have 50 Gal electric water heater in very small space, I need more hot water and don't have a space to install anything bigger by size. Even a new generation electric one will be difficult to cramp in this space.
Please, if you have one, give me your opinions for usage, service, which company make it.
Thank you, Ed.

[Erik Loza]

We’ve had a Rinnai since 2012. No issues, works fine. We bought it online and and it was installed by a regular plumbing contractor. I guess, make sure to get an appropriately sized unit for the volume you expect? Nor sure what else to say beyond that.

Erik

[Patrick Walsh]

Also have a Rinnai since ain’t 2012 also.

So far so good. Actually just had it serviced for the first time last month. Was told it was in perfect condition still. I like it as you don’t run out of hot water. Still gotta clear the cloud from the pipes but that’s the same with any water heater.

In my small basement shop it’s a godsend. I redid my heating and hot water prior to building my workshop. Put my dam furnace right in the middle of the space for efficiency reasons. Regret that now with a shop. But man thank god for the wall mount hot water heater, serious space saver and it works well.

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

Erik and Patrick, thanks for info. I am looking for Rinnai unit too, High efficiency and recirculating pump.
Do you have a problem with low flow activation? Like , if you will open just a kitchen sink a little bit, will unit start heating?
Any problem to contact Rinnai service over the phone, if needed?
Do you have electric unit or gas?
Thanks, Ed.

[Jim Becker]

I have two of them in our home; one in the original side and one in our addition built in 2008. Two made more sense because of "water logistics". I'm exceedingly pleased with them. The two I have are branded Rheem but they are also sold as WaiWela, etc. These things are super efficient, only require PVC for venting and we never run out of hot water.

[Erik Loza]

Erik and Patrick, thanks for info. I am looking for Rinnai unit too, High efficiency and recirculating pump.
Do you have a problem with low flow activation? Like , if you will open just a kitchen sink a little bit, will unit start heating?
Any problem to contact Rinnai service over the phone, if needed?
Do you have electric unit or gas?
Thanks, Ed.

Eduard, it triggers any time a hot water valve is opened but does take a minute or so for hot water to happen at the sinks (or showers, for that matter). So, “yes”, even at part throttle if that’s the question. I’m used to it and never have found it to be an issue. Have honestly had zero issues with it, so couldn’t say about Rinnai’s support. Ours is gas, BTW. Hope this helps,

Erik

[Patrick Walsh]

Zero problems. Gas fired.

Never called service as I have yet to need it “knock on wood”

My house is 1650 sq ft one bath one kitchen with a sink and dishwasher. So not a lot of usage. I shower all the time when other hot water is being used.

[Mike Henderson]

I have three Rheem natural gas units and they work fine. One condensing and two non-condensing.

Just a note, the condensing units that use PVC for venting have a chemical package inside them to neutralize the acidic condensate. That has to be replaced every few years. The non-condensing ones don't have that issue but can't use PVC for venting.
(https://www.justtankless.com/condensing.htm)
Mike

[Roger Feeley]

We had a natural gas Rinnai in our last house and liked it. We would have gotten one when we built our current house but the tankless would have been the only gas device and the cost to run gas to our house would have been $10,000.

They suggest that you flush clean the tankless every year. It’s easy to do yourself. Just get a couple of 5 gallon buckets (clean), a cheap utility pump from HF, 3 gallons of cheap white vintage and a couple of short (4 FT) garden hoses. You put the thing in bypass, clean one little filter screen and circulate the vinaigrette through the system for 45 minutes or so. Use the second bucket for a water rinse for five minutes while you dump first bucket and fill for second rinse. Easy. The first time you do it you will save a little after the cost of equipment. After that, you save about $80 over having some guy out.

[Steve Demuth]

I am looking for your experience with tankless LP water heater. I know, it is not money wise spent, expensive compared to regular electric water heater. But it is a endless, to the point, hot water supply - this is what I am looking for.
I have experience to use it back 35 years ago in Russia. It is a very popular source of hot water back then and it is very popular in Europe.
Right now I have 50 Gal electric water heater in very small space, I need more hot water and don't have a space to install anything bigger by size. Even a new generation electric one will be difficult to cramp in this space.
Please, if you have one, give me your opinions for usage, service, which company make it.
Thank you, Ed.

I have two Takagi's - one an older, non condensing (hot exhaust) that has been in operation for 15 years, and a newer condensing (cold exhaust) with fewer miles on it. I wouldn't even consider a tank type water heater at this point.

I have nothing but good to say about the Takagis. The 15 year old one has literally been completely trouble free. I have done nothing in the way of repair or adjustment on it, and have never wanted for hot water. The newer one had valve solenoid issue shortly after installation. Takagi provided excellent telephone support to help me identify the issue, shipped new parts immediately, and it's been clean sailing ever since.

Again, I wouldn't even think about a tank heater at this point.

I also used to have a tankless electric heater, but it was too small for our house, so couldn't deliver a full stream of hot water. If I were doing new construction with new electric, I'd probably wire for enough current to handle a big enough electric one.

The one thing you absolutely have to do for to either LP or electric tankless heaters to work, though, is to make sure that your water supply remains reliably softened. They cannot handle water with any significant calcium or other high saturation minerals that will precipitate out when the water is heated. The heat exchangers have many small passages for the water, and ANY scale in them will soon render the water heater useless, and probably not economically repairable.

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

Looks like a only good experience so far. Thank you everyone for your time and information.
Another question - if I will install by myself and only gas line by professional - would I be covered with warranty or everything needs to be done by professional installer?
House, I want to install this unit, located middle of nowhere, with closest Rinnai certified installer about 200 miles away.:eek:
Ed.

[Mike Henderson]

Looks like a only good experience so far. Thank you everyone for your time and information.
Another question - if I will install by myself and only gas line by professional - would I be covered with warranty or everything needs to be done by professional installer?
House, I want to install this unit, located middle of nowhere, with closest Rinnai certified installer about 200 miles away.:eek:
Ed.

I had a plumber install mine, and he was not a certified installer. I had a question about one of my units and when I called Rheem they asked me to send them a picture of the unit, including the hookups. After looking at it, they replied that the installation looked okay. So I think if you follow the directions you'll be okay.

Mike

[Mike Henderson]

The one thing you absolutely have to do for to either LP or electric tankless heaters to work, though, is to make sure that your water supply remains reliably softened. They cannot handle water with any significant calcium or other high saturation minerals that will precipitate out when the water is heated. The heat exchangers have many small passages for the water, and ANY scale in them will soon render the water heater useless, and probably not economically repairable.

Scale is a serious problem and that's why the manufacturers require that you flush the unit with a mild acid (vinegar) once a year. It's easy to do - you just have to remember to do it. I suppose if you had water with a lot of calcium in it you might have to flush twice a year.

I have a softener but I have a bypass so the water is not completely softened. I flush once a year.

Mike

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I have a Rheem LP has on-demand water heater. I love it. It does have a little lag, but it is hard to say how much because the previous owner of my home plumbed it with 3/4” pipe, and it takes a while
to flush the pipes to begin with, on top of the lag time to heat the water, but it isn’t very long; perhaps 30 seconds max to reach full hot.

I love it, because it never stops making hot water. As I type, literally, we have house guests returning from the beach, and the fourth person just entered the shower, and I’m about to take a hot bath. Can’t do that with most water heaters.

[Steve Demuth]

Looks like a only good experience so far. Thank you everyone for your time and information.
Another question - if I will install by myself and only gas line by professional - would I be covered with warranty or everything needs to be done by professional installer?
House, I want to install this unit, located middle of nowhere, with closest Rinnai certified installer about 200 miles away.:eek:
Ed.

I suppose your mileage on the warranty will vary with the manufacturer. I installed both of mine - water, electrical, and gas. When I had the issue with the second, Takagi clearly could have denied me service, but was very helpful, prompt and efficient talking me through the repair after asking a couple of questions clearly intended to verify that I knew what I was doing.

[Mike Cutler]

Eduard
Not trying to talk you out of it, because I think the tankless water heaters are very cool, but an 80,000 BTU, 48 gallon, LP, storage tank water heater will fit in the same space. It is a much easier install. It's also about 6 times more powerful than your current water heater.
The plumbing, water and gas, for the tankless water heaters is more difficult than a storage tank water heater. If you already have LP to the house, it is very doable to install an LP storage tank water heater. Not as cool as a tankless water heater, but capable of putting out a lot of hot water.
The smallest LP water heater is 3 times more powerful than an electric water heater. While not "unlimited", the recovery of LP water heater is much quicker than an electric heater.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Eduard
Not trying to talk you out of it, because I think the tankless water heaters are very cool, but an 80,000 BTU, 48 gallon, LP, storage tank water heater will fit in the same space. It is a much easier install. It's also about 6 times more powerful than your current water heater.
The plumbing, water and gas, for the tankless water heaters is more difficult than a storage tank water heater. If you already have LP to the house, it is very doable to install an LP storage tank water heater. Not as cool as a tankless water heater, but capable of putting out a lot of hot water.
The smallest LP water heater is 3 times more powerful than an electric water heater. While not "unlimited", the recovery of LP water heater is much quicker than an electric heater.


I do not want to sound argumentative, but how is the plumbing harder? I installed my tankless myself. The only difference is the clean out valves, which isn’t that much of a big deal, and there is no drip pan to install, and since I got the outdoor model, no flue to install either.

[Patrick Walsh]

Oddly it has been my experience that not one single plumber had anything good to say about on demand hot water.

Maybe they know something I don’t know yet and I’ll give them that. But so far so good for me. Four years and never once flushed and I just had it serviced and was told it looked brand new.

I used to go through whatever tank joe the plumber would throw in like every ten years.

[Lee Schierer]

It depends on how hot you want the water and what flow you need. With 40 degree water coming in, a typical tankless heater with a 165,000 Btu burner can raise the water temperature to 110 degrees and deliver 3.8 gallons per minute of this heated water indefinitely. If you need more flow the temperature will be less than 110.

[Mike Cutler]

I do not want to sound argumentative, but how is the plumbing harder? I installed my tankless myself. The only difference is the clean out valves, which isn’t that much of a big deal, and there is no drip pan to install, and since I got the outdoor model, no flue to install either.

Malcolm
It's not difficult, just more involved. At least here in Connecticut.
The larger units are going to run 200,000BTU's. They will require a 3/4", or 1", LP line to them alone. If you're already running LP to the house, you may need to add a second regulator, or a branch off a higher capacity regulator.
The water side of the plumbing for the LP storage heater is exactly the same as electric. It will probably fit right into the same space.With a tankless there are a few more parts.
Don't know how it is now, but when I looked at installing a tankless system, the vent piping was double walled stainless. The vent for my LP water heater is 4" PVC. The vent piping for me, for a tankless, was going to be close to $400.00 by itself.
All told it was going to cost me $3300 if I had it installed., not including the electrical work, or modifications to the LP supply piping external to the house. About $1600.00-$2000.00 if I did it myself ,not including any changes required for the LP supply lines, and a new reguator.
I really, really, wanted to go tankless in a bad way.To me it's the future of hot water heating. In the end though, a$1000.00 for a 80,000BTU, Bradford White, TTWII delivered to the door, some PVC vent piping and I was done. At most, I lost water to the house for an hour.

[Jim Becker]

Looks like a only good experience so far. Thank you everyone for your time and information.
Another question - if I will install by myself and only gas line by professional - would I be covered with warranty or everything needs to be done by professional installer?
House, I want to install this unit, located middle of nowhere, with closest Rinnai certified installer about 200 miles away.:eek:
Ed.

You can install them yourself...I've installed a several. Be sure you get the proper valve setup so that the periodic maintenance already mentioned is easier to do. Installation is very straight forward relative to the plumbing. You do need to take care with your venting as that's the "dangerous" side of any gas appliance other than the actual gas line. You need the correct size, the correct slope and the outlets outside configured properly to insure that exhaust gasses go where they need to go and clean intake are gets to where it needs to be.

-----

Mike, current condensing on-demand (tankless) water heaters use SCH-40 PVC for venting...it's been that way for a decade or so. Unless the runs are long, most also use 3" which is easier to get where it needs to go, too.

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

Oddly it has been my experience that not one single plumber had anything good to say about on demand hot water.

Maybe they know something I don’t know yet and I’ll give them that. But so far so good for me. Four years and never once flushed and I just had it serviced and was told it looked brand new.

I used to go through whatever tank joe the plumber would throw in like every ten years.

This is a main reason of my question. Contractor, who build our house, tell me not to install tankless system - a lot of problem, difficult maintenance and so on. Conversation happened a few years back and I stop thinking about tankless heater. Now I come back to idea of installing it and start investigation again.
Here, at USA, appliances less advanced or a new coming with some delay. I don't know reason - different standard or matter of habit? Gas tankless water heaters in Russia working for 30-50 years. Same in Europe - Germany, France and other countries. Same for refrigerators, ranges, washer/dryers.
Last time in Japan, when we went to appliancy store, I was shock by advances in technology for kitchen. And I am not talking about differences in toilet :eek: , just look this video (https://youtu.be/s0tCO4NdKeU) .

Ed.

[mike stenson]

We had a commercial type tankless install at our last house (for a bit over a decade). Every year I had to flush it, that was the end of maintenance and never had any trouble I will point out that it'll take longer for hot water to get from a tankless heater to the tap. Other than that, it was wonderful always having as much water as needed. That was the biggest downside. Our new house has tank heaters (2, one is a lift heater for the main), and I miss the tankless. When these go, I'll probably go with a hybrid system, that allows for some conduction heating, and reduces the hot water at the tap downside a bit I've heard.

edit: The install was more complicated. We had to run new gas line to cover the gas usage (but the original line wasn't big enough anyway, so would have had to with a replacement tank to be honest), and we mounted it on the roof, so that added some complexity, but it bought a lot of usable floor space for nothing ;)

[Mike Henderson]

Oddly it has been my experience that not one single plumber had anything good to say about on demand hot water.

Maybe they know something I don’t know yet and I’ll give them that. But so far so good for me. Four years and never once flushed and I just had it serviced and was told it looked brand new.

I used to go through whatever tank joe the plumber would throw in like every ten years.

I think the reason plumbers don't recommend tankless is that they're more complex than tank type water heaters and the plumbers don't know what to do if they give problems. They're familiar with tank type water heaters and know how to work on them.

I had an issue with one of my tankless water heaters and called a plumber. The guy was completely lost - he didn't have a clue about how to approach the problem. Later I called Rheem and they told me what the problem was. The plumber could have done that on his cell phone while he was standing in front of the unit. But he just shrugged his shoulders and told me he couldn't help me.

Mike

[Steve Demuth]

Eduard
Not trying to talk you out of it, because I think the tankless water heaters are very cool, but an 80,000 BTU, 48 gallon, LP, storage tank water heater will fit in the same space. It is a much easier install. It's also about 6 times more powerful than your current water heater.


Why are they harder to install? You have cold water in, cold water out, gas in, combustion air in, and vent, same as for any gas appliance. If it's a condensing unit, you have a condensate drain. It took me about 3 hours to hang and install the one I recently put in our guest house, in a utility room where the water and gas were already reasonably close. Everything standard plumbing.

Of course, they are much more complex appliances than a tank type heater. There is a lot packed into a little box, including very sophisticated electronics and sensors. More like a modern, condensing LP furnace than a water heater.

[Steve Demuth]

Maybe they know something I don’t know yet and I’ll give them that. But so far so good for me. Four years and never once flushed and I just had it serviced and was told it looked brand new.

I used to go through whatever tank joe the plumber would throw in like every ten years.

I've never descaled the one I've had in our main house for the last 15 years. We soften the water ahead of the water heater, because our water is so hard that it will scale up a heat exchanger in a matter of months. I used to have to descale the exchanger on our solar heater every 6 months or so, until we started putting only softened water through that too.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Malcolm
It's not difficult, just more involved. At least here in Connecticut.
The larger units are going to run 200,000BTU's. They will require a 3/4", or 1", LP line to them alone. If you're already running LP to the house, you may need to add a second regulator, or a branch off a higher capacity regulator.
The water side of the plumbing for the LP storage heater is exactly the same as electric. It will probably fit right into the same space.With a tankless there are a few more parts.
Don't know how it is now, but when I looked at installing a tankless system, the vent piping was double walled stainless. The vent for my LP water heater is 4" PVC. The vent piping for me, for a tankless, was going to be close to $400.00 by itself.
All told it was going to cost me $3300 if I had it installed., not including the electrical work, or modifications to the LP supply piping external to the house. About $1600.00-$2000.00 if I did it myself ,not including any changes required for the LP supply lines, and a new reguator.
I really, really, wanted to go tankless in a bad way.To me it's the future of hot water heating. In the end though, a$1000.00 for a 80,000BTU, Bradford White, TTWII delivered to the door, some PVC vent piping and I was done. At most, I lost water to the house for an hour.

I did not know you could use pvc to vent a gas water heater. It seems it would melt. I learned something new. (No sarcasm intended there.) True that indoor installation of a tankless requires a more expensive flue. I went outdoor so it was not an issue.

In regards to the comment from someone else about the outlet temperature, they are limited at 120F, but you can get a device to up that to 140. It is a safety feature. 120 is supposed to be the safe temperature for hot water to be plenty hot but not burn. I’m not sure, however, in cold climates where the inlet temp is a lot cooler if they can get to that 120F. That might be a consideration. I was planning to install a 140 thermostat, but I find it’s not nescessary.

[Steve Demuth]

I did not know you could use pvc to vent a gas water heater. It seems it would melt. I learned something new. (No sarcasm intended there.) True that indoor installation of a tankless requires a more expensive flue. I went outdoor so it was not an issue.

In regards to the comment from someone else about the outlet temperature, they are limited at 120F, but you can get a device to up that to 140. It is a safety feature. 120 is supposed to be the safe temperature for hot water to be plenty hot but not burn. I’m not sure, however, in cold climates where the inlet temp is a lot cooler if they can get to that 120F. That might be a consideration. I was planning to install a 140 thermostat, but I find it’s not nescessary.

Some newer models are fully condensing, just like a super high efficiency furnace. The exhaust gases are warm, but not anything you'd call hot. My old one exhausts through double-wall stainless. My newer one through Sch 40 PVC. Both are indoor - can't put anything with water in it outdoors in a place that sees -30F in winter, because they'd have to run constantly just to keep from freezing. One thing I like about them is that they will heat themselves to protect their heat exchangers if they get too cold - a real possibility when you have a subzero wind whistling down the exhaust stack and the water heater in a cold cellar.

Both my Takagis have remote temp controllers. You can select outlet temps from wherever you care to mount the controller, anywhere between 100F and 140F. You have to take extra "are you sure" steps to set above 120F.

[Mike Cutler]

Malcolm

It kind of surprised me that 4" PVC could be the vent pipe for my water heater, but then the blower on top is in a plastic case. The instructions clearly defined the 4" PVC. Which was good , because my direct vent water heater from the late 70's was no longer code compliant, so I has to install a new vent pipe.
Home products change so fast now. There is some really nice stuff out there.

[Jim Becker]

One other suggestion for these newer systems that have electronics (tankless heaters for sure, but other items, too, including mini-splits, etc.)...put a surge suppressor on the power outlet for the unit. A new "brain" can cost nearly 2/3 of the cost of a new water heater. Twenty bucks now is totally worth it. I did have a unit get fried, but fortunately, it was near to the expected end-of-life for the system anyway.

[Eduard Nemirovsky]

One other suggestion for these newer systems that have electronics (tankless heaters for sure, but other items, too, including mini-splits, etc.)...put a surge suppressor on the power outlet for the unit. A new "brain" can cost nearly 2/3 of the cost of a new water heater. Twenty bucks now is totally worth it. I did have a unit get fried, but fortunately, it was near to the expected end-of-life for the system anyway.

Jim, which surge suppressor do you use? Just regular surge protector, like 3-6 outlet extender, or surge suppressor installed in panel?

Thank you, Ed

[Michael Weber]

I nstalled a Rheem gas model. I like it. A drawback is that it takes a few seconds longer for hot water to reach fixtures. Once there though you never run out. I think due to their complexity they are more prone to repair/ replacement. Yearly maintenance recommended also for descaling. At least with my gas model.

[Mike Henderson]

One other suggestion for these newer systems that have electronics (tankless heaters for sure, but other items, too, including mini-splits, etc.)...put a surge suppressor on the power outlet for the unit. A new "brain" can cost nearly 2/3 of the cost of a new water heater. Twenty bucks now is totally worth it. I did have a unit get fried, but fortunately, it was near to the expected end-of-life for the system anyway.

In my opinion, the manufacturers should put surge suppression into their equipment. It's not that expensive, especially for something expensive - like a tankless water heater - it wouldn't affect the end price very much. My guess is that they do put some level of surge suppression in the units but probably not sufficient to withstand a lighting strike.

Mike

[Jim Becker]

Jim, which surge suppressor do you use? Just regular surge protector, like 3-6 outlet extender, or surge suppressor installed in panel?



Just a single, plug-in unit. It probably wouldn't stop a "direct hit", but it should help with. I don't have whole house suppression, unfortunately.

423013

[Stephen Tashiro]

How much maintenance do tankless heaters need in locations where there are a lot of minerals in the water?

What's the peak AMP draw of the electric versions? That could be a problem in older homes with only 100 AMP service.

[Jim Becker]

How much maintenance do tankless heaters need in locations where there are a lot of minerals in the water?

What's the peak AMP draw of the electric versions? That could be a problem in older homes with only 100 AMP service.

About once a year for the back-flush scale maintenance, Stephen.

For Electric units (which I wouldn't recommend for general use for energy cost reasons and sometimes smaller capacities than gas; but they are great for spot needs or vacation cabins, barns, etc.) the amperage requirements are going to vary with size/flow rate. Electric units can be provisioned to service a single room, such as a bathroom, laundry or kitchen, which can lower the amperage requirement for a single unit and make them more acceptable for service in dwellings that have older/smaller panels.

[Steve Demuth]

How much maintenance do tankless heaters need in locations where there are a lot of minerals in the water?


They cannot tolerate scale build up, so if you have very hard water, either you have to soften the water to a low mineral burden before heating it, or you'll be descaling the water heater multiple times per year. In order to heat the water quickly, these machines run it through heat exchangers with fairly narrow channels and lots of surface area, so scale builds up quickly, and will damage the water heater by stopping flow fairly easily, if not controlled.


How much maintenance do tankless heaters need in locations where there are a lot of minerals in the water?

What's the peak AMP draw of the electric versions? That could be a problem in older homes with only 100 AMP service.

You can get them at nearly any size, but if you want to heat water for a shower or any other high flow applications, you need at least a 100 Amp unit (and it will draw 100 Amps). 100A at 240 volts is 24Kw, which is roughly 90K BTU/hr, which is marginal. Even my mid-size LP gas model is rated at 120,000 BTUs, and while the electric ones are somewhat more efficient at converting input energy to heat, it's not by much.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

They cannot tolerate scale build up, so if you have very hard water, either you have to soften the water to a low mineral burden before heating it, or you'll be descaling the water heater multiple times per year. In order to heat the water quickly, these machines run it through heat exchangers with fairly narrow channels and lots of surface area, so scale builds up quickly, and will damage the water heater by stopping flow fairly easily, if not controlled.



You can get them at nearly any size, but if you want to heat water for a shower or any other high flow applications, you need at least a 100 Amp unit (and it will draw 100 Amps). 100A at 240 volts is 24Kw, which is roughly 90K BTU/hr, which is marginal. Even my mid-size LP gas model is rated at 120,000 BTUs, and while the electric ones are somewhat more efficient at converting input energy to heat, it's not by much.

This is true. A proper install includes clean out valves where you can hook up a back-flush system. What I do is use a submersible pump in a Home Depot bucket full of white vinegar. I back-flush it with that for 20 minutes or so about three times per year. It isn’t hard, but it is a downside to tankless heaters if you are taking score.

[lowell holmes]

We have had a Rinnai for several years and itd provides superior service to the gas water heater it replaced.
I take long showers and never run out of hot water. It also handles the washing machine quite well.
The only gas appliance we have is the central heat and ac.

[mike stenson]

We have had a Rinnai for several years and itd provides superior service to the gas water heater it replaced.
I take long showers and never run out of hot water. It also handles the washing machine quite well.
The only gas appliance we have is the central heat and ac.

So this is electric, or?

[Peter Kelly]

Funny, a "power event" (likely a surge) screwed up the circuit board in my previous boiler so I ended up switching it and the tank-style water heater to a Navien tankless LP combi-boiler last year. Been great so far, love the utility room space I gained back from the other two units as well.

https://i.imgur.com/7Wh833s.jpg

[Mike Cutler]

Peter

That's a really nice install on the plumbing, Those are nice sweated joints!!! The gas looks a little different to me.
if you did it yourself, well done. If you had it done, definitely keep that person's card!

[Jan Smith]

I installed 3 navien ng ones and they work as expected, yearly cleaning routine is easy to do.
One is in my house and is a bit overkill because I am alone but the one at my buddies house with 3 heavy additional users replaced a regular one which was often overwhelmed by the demand and they love it.
One thing really easy to get used to is the hot water circulating loop on my unit.

[Peter Kelly]

Peter

That's a really nice install on the plumbing, Those are nice sweated joints!!! The gas looks a little different to me.
if you did it yourself, well done. If you had it done, definitely keep that person's card!Thanks, the guy that did it is a "hobbiest plumber" that works for the propane company here. Took two days and included some other re-work of the system, he did an awesome job of it.