Jessem stock guides

[william watts]

I'm thinking of ordering the table saw guides. I would like to ask if anybody that has them has had any problems. You tube has a video that shows the O rings melting in summer heat is that possible? The central Calif. gets hot in the summer. My garage shop has hit 110. Can the O rings be changed to a different type?

W.C. has them on sale. I have seen sales come along just before products are withdrawn from the market for defects, not saying that's the case here. Soft and squishy would make them useless. Has anybody experienced squishy O rings?

[Corey Pelton]

I‘be had them on my saw the better part of a year, and they are incredibly useful. I’m in SoCal and the heat has never been a problem. Use them on my router table as well.

[Mark Carlson]

I had mine in a Los Angeles garage for 2 years without any issue. Had the router table version for much longer without any melting. Got really hot in there.

[Ben Rivel]

Had mine on my saw for years now in Sacramento area and havent had any issues with them. Though I dont recall the thermometer in my garage ever getting over 99 degrees in the summer, and thats when it was 107-110 outside I believe.

[william watts]

Thanks for the responses. Seems like the you tube video is wrong, hard to imagine. I have reserved the hold downs at w.c. and will pick them up this am.

My garage shop gets to 105 several days a year, it's hotter than outside ambient. I use a cooling vest with frozen gel packs, it helps, but mostly I stay away from the shop in the heat.

[Izzy Camire]

I have had them on my saw for a few years and I think they are a good addition to my saw. The O-rings have never gotten squishy but my shop never gets too warm in summer.

[Ben Rivel]

Thanks for the responses. Seems like the you tube video is wrong, hard to imagine. I have reserved the hold downs at w.c. and will pick them up this am.

My garage shop gets to 105 several days a year, it's hotter than outside ambient. I use a cooling vest with frozen gel packs, it helps, but mostly I stay away from the shop in the heat.
Yea I saw someone posted on Facebook in one of the various groups Im in, that they were $199 at Woodcraft right now. Not a bad deal at all!

[George Bokros]

Yea I saw someone posted on Facebook in one of the various groups Im in, that they were $199 at Woodcraft right now. Not a bad deal at all!

On the WC main page it shows the price at #199.99. Click on the image and go to the item page and the price is $305. Put it in your cart and the price is $305.

[Ben Rivel]

On the WC main page it shows the price at #199.99. Click on the image and go to the item page and the price is $305. Put it in your cart and the price is $305.
Huh, not sure whats happening on your end, but it looks fine on mine.

[George Bokros]

Huh, not sure whats happening on your end, but it looks fine on mine.

Checked it out and for some reason it was priced in some other currency other that the dollar, puzzled!!

[Bernie Kopfer]

Check out a previous thread about these guides here onSMC. I have them and they work fine but are a pain to set up for one time use. And make sure to set them on the fence in such a manner to keep them as far back from the face when not using them. If they are close to the edge they can interfere with your push stick, a safety issue for me. Quality built but I find the ones for the router table more useful.

[tom lucas]

I have the router table ones and love them. A friend has the table saw ones. He likes them but says they can't be used for narrow cuts because they interfere with the blade/push stick and grip outside the cut (not useful as a hold down, then).

Given they are spendy and have limitations, I would think a good set of feather boards would be a better choice. And maybe the much cheaper board buddies for wider cuts.

[Rick Potter]

I have them, both router table and saw models. Absolutely love the RT units, and I like the saw units for repetitive cuts like making rails and stiles one after another.

For the TS model, my only complaint is mentioned above, in another post. Cutting thin strips they are helpful but also in the way of push sticks, which you need because it is a bit harder to advance the wood with the rollers. Maybe I tighten them too much, but I do it per instructions.

I use a long dowel rod as a push stick on very narrow cuts, and it basically has to be thin enough to go under the wheels .

Another nice thing about the TS units, is that it really reduces burnt spots when you cannot run the whole piece in one smooth move.

Never any problems with the O rings, but they are replaceable if they go bad. No biggie.

[Roger Feeley]

Check out a previous thread about these guides here onSMC. I have them and they work fine but are a pain to set up for one time use. And make sure to set them on the fence in such a manner to keep them as far back from the face when not using them. If they are close to the edge they can interfere with your push stick, a safety issue for me. Quality built but I find the ones for the router table more useful.

hmmm I installed mine so the arms can stick up exactly even with the surface of my rip fence. It helps when I feed stock on edge. It hasn’t interfered with the push stick at all.

[Kevin Womer]

I have the stock guides for the table saw and didn't want to drill into my fence so I used David Stanton’s idea off of YouTube which uses two 95 lb. mag switches to hold the rail on and it works great. A couple of flips on the switches and it detached from the fence. I like this because it is so simple to take on and off and my fence is left intact. They work great for large panels and bigger width cuts, when they aren’t the right jig for smaller cuts, I use the Grrippers.