Craftsman 22104 TS

[Mike Sanfeliz]

Hello everyone, I've enjoyed lurking his site for the past 2 days and felt that it was time to get my feet wet. Let me begin by saying that I am a professional amature who is ready for a little more out of life. About two years ago I lost my job and have since bought a home in PA (originally from NYC). Currently, I am a stay-at-home dad who has a lot of time and a big garage.

As of late I've decided that it was time to start some of those projects that I have been contemplating over the last 2 1/2 years. Currently, I have what I affectionally refer to as my poor-mans workshop (and am darn proud of it). My shop centered around a Ryobi BTS 15 table saw I bought 2 years ago to get me started. Actually, it's not a bad little saw for staight rippin', but I wanted more.

Last year I had the opportunity to drool over Craftsman's new line of hybrid TS and said to myself "I gotta get me one of those one day". Well, as of 12/17/05 I became the proud owner of a 22104. It was on sale for $399. and I received an extra 10% off just for showing up at 7a. The saw was now $360., so with the money I saved I opted for the 3 year master protection agreement.

First off I have to say, "Thank God I have friends to help me lug this thing out of my Astro". I've never seen anything packed in a metal frame before (I was thinking of putting some wood on top of it and make it a work table for my miter saw). Assembly was straight forward and the instructions were clear as were the Illustrations. I had fun aligning all the parts making everything stright and leveled. When I felt that all was set up properly. I fired her up. First thing I noticed was how much quieter it was compared to my Ryobi. I noticed no vibrations while operating (I say this in reference to another who did have this problem on his 22124).

My saw has what appears to be a pewter in color blemish on the left side of the cabinet, but it really doesn't bother me. I'm not sawing with the finish. I did see somewhere around the forums that Orion had given somone the Krylon # paint used for touch up. I would be interested in knowing that bit of info (just in case).

Anyway, since it is the last week of school before Christmas. I'll be making my rounds with my kids (school parties) and last minute shopping. But I will post my impressions of this saw asap.

BTW- I happened to notice on the Sears-Craftsman site that cast iron extentions are availible. Does anyone happen to know if thay can be used on this saw in place of the steel ones?

PS- I will apologize in advance for any misspellings. I sometimes type when I'm tired and forget to double check my posts. Even though I sit 12 inches away from Oxford and Webster :)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mike....Welcome to the Creek! Neat, civil place to exchange information. I can't help you with any advice about your saw as I don't have that Craftsman. I'm sure some of the members here have it and will respond.

BTW Mike, do a search using 22104 for the subject and you'll find about 5 old threads where it was mentioned and or discussed.

Again.....Welcome!

[Vaughn McMillan]

Welcome to the Creek, Mike. I don't have any experience with the 22104 other than seeng it in the store, but it looked like a pretty good rig, and it sounds like you got a great deal on it. I don't know for certain, but I'm willing to bet the iron extensions will fit pretty easily. Worst case scenario, you'd have to drill a few holes in the edge of the table or the extension, and that's pretty easy and painless. I have iron extensions on my TS, and I think you'd appreciate having one or two on your new toy. (I often use the extra table real estate as a reference surface, to check things like making sure a 4-legged box doesn't rock back and forth, or confrming a sanded surface is flat.)

Again, welcome, and have fun with your new toy. As you've likely already gathered, this gang likes pictures, so feel free to bring 'em on.

- Vaughn

[scott spencer]

Glad you jumped in Mike, and congrats on your new saw. I recently saw a pic of the 22104 with some grated cast iron wings....darned if I can find it though! As long as your saw is 27" deep, and I'm pretty sure it is, you should be able to fit a standard 27" deep cast iron wing on it. Harbor freight has solid cast iron wings for < $40 delivered. You have to order them as a replacement part for their cabinet saw and order the part number that you can get from the diagram that's in the online manual. I hear it'll take 6-8 weeks, so expect to forget about it then be pleasantly surprised when it (or they) arrive! ;)

Enjoy it and be safe!

[Robert Mayer]

I have the next model up from yours that comes with the CI wings. If you order the wings from sears they should bolt right up to yours. I think its worth the money to get them.

I have had the saw for about a year now. I have no issues with it. Although I hope to upgrade the fence one of these days. But for now the stock one works ok.

[Dan Stuewe]

Congrats on the saw. I saw the sale price on that saw last week and was greatly tempted, but didn't pull the trigger. One of my thoughts was that I'd get this model with the steel wings and replace the right with a router table and the left with a sliding table (Jessem). It would be kinda weird to have the accessory cost more than the saw, but I really like the idea of a sliding table.

One thing I was also concidering was to move the rails to the right to have more rip capacity on the right. I don't see much use for 12" on the left (I posted this question yesterday).

Good luck and keep us posted!

(also let us see some pictures of the saw and your work!)

[Mike Sanfeliz]

Thanks for the welcome guys. I have another set of questions. How many of you are using the table saws at 240v? If so, is there really that much of a difference in power? or will 120v do?

[Michael Ballent]

No difference if you run it at 120 or 240 voltage and amperage changes accordingly and the wattage still remains the same.

[Curt Harms]

Thanks for the welcome guys. I have another set of questions. How many of you are using the table saws at 240v? If so, is there really that much of a difference in power? or will 120v do?
When You turn the saw on, does it come up to speed promptly, or does it spin up slowly? How much else is on the same circuit the saw is on? Do the lights dim? If the saw comes up to speed rapidly, the lights don't dim and the saw doesn't "labor", I'd think there's no benefit up switching to 240 volts. If on the other hand you do have symptoms of low voltage, a changeover may be in order. Running a motor on low voltage does not enhance its' life:(

HTH

Curt

[scott spencer]

No difference if you run it at 120 or 240 voltage and amperage changes accordingly and the wattage still remains the same. I agree....theoretically. No difference on a perfect circuit, however Curt points out some symptoms of voltage loss in the real world of old homes, outdated codes, former owner "intervention" :eek: , etc. There can also be losses due to the wire and layout, and just from the grid from your supplier. If significant losses exist, they will be a smaller percentage of a 220v circuit than a 110v circuit so the motor will get closer to it's theoretical ideal with 220v.

[Mike Sanfeliz]

When You turn the saw on, does it come up to speed promptly, or does it spin up slowly?

Promptly

How much else is on the same circuit the saw is on?

Lights and a radio. I usually unplug any powertool not in use

Do the lights dim?

no.

[Michael Ballent]

How much else is on the same circuit the saw is on?

Lights and a radio. I usually unplug any powertool not in use


Mike, please do yourself a favor and make sure that you do not have any power equipment that on the same circuit as you have the lights on. Last thing I want think about is to have the breaker do it's job and you are sitting in the dark...with a blade that is probably still spinning down, plus the whole bumping around in the shop in the dard does not sound like a great experience. :)

[Curt Harms]

Mike, please do yourself a favor and make sure that you do not have any power equipment that on the same circuit as you have the lights on. Last thing I want think about is to have the breaker do it's job and you are sitting in the dark...with a blade that is probably still spinning down, plus the whole bumping around in the shop in the dard does not sound like a great experience. :)

It's a good idea to have at at least one light source on a circuit separate from the rest of the lights. Otherwise it sounds like your circuit is adequate as it. Don't worry, Be happy:cool:

Curt

[Mike Sanfeliz]

It's a good idea to have at at least one light source on a circuit separate from the rest of the lights. Otherwise it sounds like your circuit is adequate as it. Don't worry, Be happy:cool:

Curt


Ok, I just checked my breakers. One is indeed for the lights and one wall outlet. The second breaker is for the ceiling outlets which have my 10 outlet belkin plugged in (it is made specifically for power tools, found out while in HD today). This is the one I use for my power tools and both are 20 amps. So basically, I'll still have lights if I trip the circuit. Also, I have plenty of natural lighing from my windows (unless I'm working at night :eek: ).

Please forgive my ignorance. This is my first house. I've been an apt dweller for over 35 years and didn't worry too much about these things. Also, I've been known to have AARP moments.

Thanks for watching out though.