track saw vs circular saw with guide

[Carl Crout]

I currently use a homemade guide with a battery powered circular saw. I have one for 4' and another for 8' cuts. It has a perpendicular piece of wood attached that pushes up against what I am cutting which assures me that my cut is square. I only need to make one pencil mark instead of two like with a track saw.

I see lots of reasons to have one, dust collection, and plunge cutting- neither is very important to me. I see some claim that a circular saw has runout and won't make as good of a cut as a track saw. I don't believe this either. Even if a cheaper circular saw has runout, when you cut the edge of your guide, this accounts for the kerf. So you know exactly where the cut will be.

The only advantage that I see is that with my guide I have to make sure I keep the saw up against it while a track saw runs on tracks. Having said that I could easily add something to my homemade guide if I thought it was needed.

I am currently outfitting my shop at my vacation home. I have the Dewalt Jobsite saw and was thinking instead of upgrading to a heavy saw, just keep it and get a track saw to do the cuts that the jobsite saw and my Dewalt slider can't do. Then I got to thinking why not just use a circular saw and guide like I have been doing for the last 15 years?

Got any helpful comments? Thanks very much

[Mike Cutler]

Carl

The first circular saw guide was probably made 15 minutes after the first circular saw. ;)
Untold 10's upon 10's of thousands of cuts have been made with a setup exactly like yours. It works.
A track saw should be faster to setup than an edge guide, but you seem to have found a system that works for you. Stick with it until it doesn't.

[Ray Newman]

Back-In-The-Day or pre-Fe$tool, I utilized the same shop fabricated set up. Worked very well as I utilized the ol' and now gone Porter-Cable 314 trim saw with a dedicated carbide blade.

In my experience, the key is starting with a good, and if at all possible, dedicated circular saw and a dedicated carbide blade.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

+1 for the PC-314 trim saw and Skilsaw with guides. I’ve got an 8’, 4’, four 2’ and two 4’ back to back guides that have served me quite well for decades. I usually use the 314 to break down 3/4” or thinner sheet goods and the Skilsaw for thicker stuff. Both have Forrest WW II blades. Very smooth and accurate cuts with both. Just can’t justify the expense of a track saw.

[johnny means]

I used a shop made track for years before I knew that tracksaws were a thing. Dust collection is the only real performance gain that my ts55/ts75 saws bring to the game.

[Richard Coers]

With the foam grip on the bottom of the track, no clamping. With the saw being held on the track, you can hesitate with the saw, reposition yourself and the cord, and the saw doesn't wiggle. Over extend yourself a bit, and the saw stays on the line. It doesn't angle away at the end of my reach. But, by the way you worded your post, not sure any reasons would change your opinion. Just thought I'd say why I converted after 47 years of woodworking.

[Art Mann]

Are you honestly wanting to hear from people such as myself who think a track saw is superior? It doesn't seem so.

[David Buchhauser]

I currently use a homemade guide with a battery powered circular saw. I have one for 4' and another for 8' cuts. It has a perpendicular piece of wood attached that pushes up against what I am cutting which assures me that my cut is square. I only need to make one pencil mark instead of two like with a track saw.

I see lots of reasons to have one, dust collection, and plunge cutting- neither is very important to me. I see some claim that a circular saw has runout and won't make as good of a cut as a track saw. I don't believe this either. Even if a cheaper circular saw has runout, when you cut the edge of your guide, this accounts for the kerf. So you know exactly where the cut will be.

The only advantage that I see is that with my guide I have to make sure I keep the saw up against it while a track saw runs on tracks. Having said that I could easily add something to my homemade guide if I thought it was needed.

I am currently outfitting my shop at my vacation home. I have the Dewalt Jobsite saw and was thinking instead of upgrading to a heavy saw, just keep it and get a track saw to do the cuts that the jobsite saw and my Dewalt slider can't do. Then I got to thinking why not just use a circular saw and guide like I have been doing for the last 15 years?

Got any helpful comments? Thanks very much


I would say that if it works for you, great!! With my Makita cordless track saw and long track, I can cut a full sheet of plywood diagonally (or any other odd angles if needed) with no clamps required. Lots of other great benefits as well. If you just use a circular saw with homemade guide like you have been doing for years, then that will save you some money over buying the track saw and tracks. Go ahead and put that money towards a decent table saw for your vacation home.
David

[Don Stephan]

Not a direct comment on track versus guide, but I really like blade cover and riving knife on my Festool circular saw compared to what is on my DeWalt circular saw.

[Paul F Mills]

I used a guide for a while when I started woodworking and then upgraded to a Makita tracksaw. The dust collection is a big deal for me. I also found the tracking to be better with a track saw. With a guide, I frequently varied from my line a bit and had to recut. After the first use, I find the setup to be easier with a track saw also.

[Jim Becker]

Both a track saw and a saw guided by a straight edge can do the same work, for the most part. Aside from the potential of better dust collection, the track saw has an advantage of being able to put the edge of the track exactly on the line, often without requiring clamping, and the saw and track are essentially locked together for very precise motion while you make the cut. A regular circular saw can make the cut, but one must figure offsets in for positioning the straight edge and since the saw isn't constrained to a straight line, the cut may or may not be as clean as with a track saw. That latter thing is more about the human pushing the saw than it is about "runout", etc.

[Carl Crout]

With the foam grip on the bottom of the track, no clamping. With the saw being held on the track, you can hesitate with the saw, reposition yourself and the cord, and the saw doesn't wiggle. Over extend yourself a bit, and the saw stays on the line. It doesn't angle away at the end of my reach. But, by the way you worded your post, not sure any reasons would change your opinion. Just thought I'd say why I converted after 47 years of woodworking.

I do have preconceived opinions but trying to figure out if a track saw is really worth the money. I see using no clamps is faster but why can't I put foam on my guide? As I said the main advantage I see is that the saw follows the guides and stays on line as you mentioned.

Thanks for the replies so far

[glenn bradley]

Are you honestly wanting to hear from people such as myself who think a track saw is superior? It doesn't seem so.


*** wink-wink ***

I agree it seems you want to talk yourself out of one and that is fine. I used a shop made guide for years with good success. The main benefit I get from my Makita tracksaw is the path control and the associated cleaner cut. Just because one person finds this of value does not mean everyone does. As I got older, the freedom from having to hold the saw against the shop made guide was desirable. With the track I only have to focus on moving the saw forward. A minor thing in the past, still doable now but, my work is more enjoyable when it is more easily accomplished. The dust collection is not all that much better than with my regular circ-saw but, I run the now-deceased Porter Cable 324 MAG that catches dust very well with a shop vac hooked up.

[andy bessette]

...I only need to make one pencil mark instead of two like with a track saw...

Yeah, I think you should stick with your saw guide until you become more proficient with a pencil.

[johnny means]

The cost of a tracksaw is nothing to sneeze at when it comes to opportunity costs. I could snag a nice bandsaw for that price. If I was setting up a shop, I would focus on shop equipment that lent itself to the type of work I do.

[keith micinski]

I use my makita to cut doors down as apparently pre 1990 doors were just made willy nilly and no two ever the same. I was anti track saw as hard as you can get for guy that says I got rid of my table saw and couldn't be happier. Still can't wrap my mind around someone saying that out loud and really believing it. That having been said there is nothing better then grabbing the saw and track, plopping it down, and ripping a half inch off of a door. You could do this any of a number of dumbed down ways but at the end of the day using quality tools, to do quality work, with as little frustration as possible is absolutely priceless to me.

[Curt Harms]

I think that the type of saw used on a 'sawboard' matters. I use a P-C 314 and it stays against the fence very well. The P-C 314 is a small worm drive saw whose base is longer than it is wide. The handle is pretty close to in line with the blade so there is no tendency for the saw to twist as I push it and move away from the guide's fence. It requires little or no effort to keep the saw tight against the fence and with a good blade produces a very nice cut. No dust collection though.

[Frederick Skelly]

The equation was a little different for me. I had an old Craftsman circ saw that was needing replacement anyway and I wanted a good quality circ saw and blade. Plus, the old saw never worked well enough for me on a homemade guide. The Dewalt Track Saw I bought cuts like a knife through butter. Cuts are clean. The track doesnt move during cuts. The saw slides down the track effortlessly. For me it was a good decision to buy one.

But if your existing system is doing everything you want it to, I'd save the $500. As you already noted, you can add the rubber strips to the bottom of your existing homemade guide.

Enjoy your vacation shop!
Fred

[Carl Crout]

Thoughts on this system? https://www.truetracsaw.com/products/truetrac-8-combo-kit?variant=1114919885&currency=USD&utm_campaign=gs-2019-10-16&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=CjwKCAiAuqHwBRAQEiwAD-zr3ROHa9aDhy5kHjZeaobJYKJ9cOzS1UAas9ZENfk6jRwqhmCb Gnai3hoC-90QAvD_BwE

[Charles Lent]

I have two straight edge wide Pro Grip aluminum clamping guides from Peach Tree Woodworking catalog # 582 and 596 on this link https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html . I've had these wide guides for about 23 years. and before the DeWalt saw noted below I used them with a 7 1/2" Commercial Black and Decker circular saw that I have owned for about 43 years.

I have recently been using my 18 volt Dewalt W/lithium battery circular saw similar to this 20 volt version which is now available.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Circular-Saw-Kit-with-Battery-5Ah-Charger-and-Case-DCS391P1/205407037

For each saw I made a kind-of sole plate from 1/2" Lexan that rides on top of, and is guided by, the Pro Grip guide clamps. These sole plates have a zero clearance blade area where the blade teeth rise up through it, so I can make chip free cuts. This area of the sole plate is thicker, so the bottom of it touches the surface of the wood being cut and it's thickness matches the thickness of the clamping guide. I have also made a spacer that equals the width between the clamping guide and the blade that I use to position the guide the correct distance from the cut line, also made from Lexan.

About the only things that I don't have with my system is the foam backing on the clamp guides, which I probably could add, and the easy ability to do plunge cuts. I've been using my system since before track saws came into existence. I like the ability of track saws to collect the saw dust, but since my shop is very small, I break up all of my sheet stock outside the shop on a cutting table, so being outside I have no real need to capture the saw dust. My cutting table is just a 1 X 4 pine frame about 20 X 70" in size with 2 X 4 cross pieces, one across the middle and two near each end, laid flat and flush with the top surface of the frame. These end 2 pieces of 2 X 4 are positioned to allow attachment of a set of metal banquet table legs which are attached to the bottom of these 2 X 4 pieces using short screws. When folded, these legs fold up into the recess of the 1 X 4 table frame. The entire frame has no metal in it except for these screws. It is all assembled using biscuits and Titebond II glue, so shallow blade cuts into the top surface of the table will never hit metal.

Using this cutting table has several advantages. The biggest advantage is that I don't work at ground level, since I can no longer do this. Using the cutting table instead of saw horses, and making all cuts with the work roughly positioned so that the cut line is down the middle of the table, keeps both pieces from falling as the cut is being completed. They both lay on the table until I remove the off cut and re-position the remainder for the next cut. This results in no broken edges, like frequently happens at the end of a cut when using saw horses. When finished, I fold the legs of this table and slide it into my sheet stock storage area, where it leans against the sheet stock until I need to use it again, taking up less than 4" of floor space. I still have a couple of saw horses, but mostly used now for holding a work table or scaffold board. I keep looking at track saws, but I can't see that having one would be of any significant benefit over what I already have.

Attached are a few photos of the cutting table and guides. I don't have a good photo of the Lexan base at this time.

Charley

[Allan Speers]

For me, the main difference, unless you get the Fe$tool, is cut depth.

If your main goal is to cut sheet goods down to size, then I suppose a simple guide is fine. Personally, I'd still use a track saw, because it's faster & more accurate. FWIW, most track systems offer a "Tee" guide, which lets you cut 90 degrees very quickly. That alone is worth the price of admission, IMO.

Now, if you need to cut 1" or more, then there's no thought required. A good track system is a must.

Also, with some systems (I use and love the Eurekazone, despite several frustrating aspects of the full system) you can also attach other tools, like a router. Doing "outside" routing with a track is incredible. I would NEVER go back to a table or a simple guide for this task. Also, because the router is held to the work, you can cut in the "wrong" direction, which gives a better finished surface.
And of course, the safety factor is also nice.

I use a Makita 5104 with my system. It has tons of torque, and cuts just about anything as long as I go slowly.
DOC is fantastic.

I do wish I had a riving knife, though. The EZ has a "sort of" knife, but you have to remove it when making miter cuts. Someday I may get the big Festool CS, and mount it to a Eurekazone base. However, that would lessen my DOC a bit, so I dunno.... (plus the cost!)

[Jim Dwight]

I used a circular saw with a shoot board for several decades before getting a track saw. I did not try every brand of circular saw or saw blade but I tried a few and never got table saw quality cuts like I routinely get with my track saw (a DeWalt). If you just want to cut things down to approximate size and make the finish cuts on your table saw, the circular saw will work fine. If you can get table saw quality cuts with your circular saw and chosen blade, please mention what they are but great. I could not.

I do not have space in my shop to make wide cuts in large pieces on my table saw. I must make finish cuts with my track saw but it is fully up to the task.

I didn't notice anybody mentioning plunge cuts but it has been handy occasionally. But the main reason I think there is essentially no comparison is the ability to make finish cuts - cuts good enough to glue up. I never got those with the circular saw but get them nearly every time with the track saw. A track saw can be used for breakdown but it is really a final cut quality tool. In my experience, a circular saw only makes final cuts for carpentry tasks - which is what it is made for.

[Stephen Rosenthal]

“ If you can get table saw quality cuts with your circular saw and chosen blade, please mention what they are but great. I could not.”

Jim,
I noted earlier that I installed Forrest WW II blades on both my PC-314 trim saw and Skilsaw from which I get furniture finish quality cuts without needing a shooting board. I understand people’s preference for track saws, but considering my experience with what I’ve been using for decades I don’t see the need to invest in one. And btw, I don’t have a table saw either, but do have 3 Dewalt RASs, each one perfectly tuned and individually dedicated to crosscutting, dadoing and ripping.

[Carl Crout]

I have two straight edge wide Pro Grip aluminum clamping guides from Peach Tree Woodworking catalog # 582 and 596 on this link https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html . I've had these wide guides for about 23 years. and before the DeWalt saw noted below I used them with a 7 1/2" Commercial Black and Decker circular saw that I have owned for about 43 years.

I have recently been using my 18 volt Dewalt W/lithium battery circular saw similar to this 20 volt version which is now available.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-MAX-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Circular-Saw-Kit-with-Battery-5Ah-Charger-and-Case-DCS391P1/205407037

For each saw I made a kind-of sole plate from 1/2" Lexan that rides on top of, and is guided by, the Pro Grip guide clamps. These sole plates have a zero clearance blade area where the blade teeth rise up through it, so I can make chip free cuts. This area of the sole plate is thicker, so the bottom of it touches the surface of the wood being cut and it's thickness matches the thickness of the clamping guide. I have also made a spacer that equals the width between the clamping guide and the blade that I use to position the guide the correct distance from the cut line, also made from Lexan.

About the only things that I don't have with my system is the foam backing on the clamp guides, which I probably could add, and the easy ability to do plunge cuts. I've been using my system since before track saws came into existence. I like the ability of track saws to collect the saw dust, but since my shop is very small, I break up all of my sheet stock outside the shop on a cutting table, so being outside I have no real need to capture the saw dust. My cutting table is just a 1 X 4 pine frame about 20 X 70" in size with 2 X 4 cross pieces, one across the middle and two near each end, laid flat and flush with the top surface of the frame. These end 2 pieces of 2 X 4 are positioned to allow attachment of a set of metal banquet table legs which are attached to the bottom of these 2 X 4 pieces using short screws. When folded, these legs fold up into the recess of the 1 X 4 table frame. The entire frame has no metal in it except for these screws. It is all assembled using biscuits and Titebond II glue, so shallow blade cuts into the top surface of the table will never hit metal.

Using this cutting table has several advantages. The biggest advantage is that I don't work at ground level, since I can no longer do this. Using the cutting table instead of saw horses, and making all cuts with the work roughly positioned so that the cut line is down the middle of the table, keeps both pieces from falling as the cut is being completed. They both lay on the table until I remove the off cut and re-position the remainder for the next cut. This results in no broken edges, like frequently happens at the end of a cut when using saw horses. When finished, I fold the legs of this table and slide it into my sheet stock storage area, where it leans against the sheet stock until I need to use it again, taking up less than 4" of floor space. I still have a couple of saw horses, but mostly used now for holding a work table or scaffold board. I keep looking at track saws, but I can't see that having one would be of any significant benefit over what I already have.

Attached are a few photos of the cutting table and guides. I don't have a good photo of the Lexan base at this time.

Charley

How does your saw ride on top of the guide? Looks like the guide isn't very wide. Or do you use two of them together?

[Ted Reischl]

I have no need of a track saw. I can understand that they are handy for guys who toss them in their trucks.

What I cannot understand is how the people who make these things have the idea that about 20 bucks worth of aluminum extrusion, some bolts and a plate to mount the saw on should cost $500. It is no doubt a very profitable item.

Should not be long before we see the prices fall through the floor as foreign competition figures out there is a huge opportunity.

[Jim Becker]

Ted, I have a slider in my shop, but still find quite a few things that the track saw can handle easier and more expeditiously...bringing the saw to the work rather than the opposite. Do I use it a lot? Nope. But when I do, it delivers. I have used it in the house, too, which is kinda more like your "toss in the truck" example, however. ;) Different folks have different needs, preferences and work flow. Track saws are not for everyone, for sure, but they do what they do very well.

[Charles Lent]

How does your saw ride on top of the guide? Looks like the guide isn't very wide. Or do you use two of them together?

Carl,

My aluminum guides are about 6" wide, not the common narrow ones (look at the picture and compare them to the 2 X 4 cross pieces in the table). My saws are attached to 1/2" Lexan that is grooved to fit the channels of the top side of my guides. The blade side of my circular saws that I use with these guides hangs over the side of the guide, but very little of the saw body extends beyond the guide on the non blade side of the saw.

Charley

[Rich Aldrich]

The reason I went with a track saw is the track saws and tracks have the anti chip edge that protects plywood from chipping. My track saw supplier went out of business so I will be looking to replace it when my anti chip edges are gone. One needs to buy name brand. If buying it once is expensive, buying it twice really sucks.

[Ole Anderson]

The cost of a tracksaw is nothing to sneeze at when it comes to opportunity costs. I could snag a nice bandsaw for that price. If I was setting up a shop, I would focus on shop equipment that lent itself to the type of work I do.
A lot of track saws out there now that are way less than Festool, Makita or Dewalt. They work fine and still have the advantages of a track saw over a shop made guide. I have had the Grizzly for at least six years. Use it for cutting off doors, cutting windows into doors and a zillion other uses. Key is the ability to lay the edge on the pencil line, the nearly chip free cut and the fact that the saw can't move off the edge of the guide.

[andy bessette]

Many years ago I paid $350 for my used Festool TS 55 with track and Systainer.

[Carl Crout]

Carl,

My aluminum guides are about 6" wide, not the common narrow ones (look at the picture and compare them to the 2 X 4 cross pieces in the table). My saws are attached to 1/2" Lexan that is grooved to fit the channels of the top side of my guides. The blade side of my circular saws that I use with these guides hangs over the side of the guide, but very little of the saw body extends beyond the guide on the non blade side of the saw.

Charley

Thanks, when I went to Peachtree's website and looked for the model numbers that you posted I saw that they were indeed wider

[Robert Engel]

I also used a home made guide for many years, then picked up an adapter that PSI used to sell in conjunction with angle alumimum.

But - despite that, I never really got perfectly straight cuts. Acceptable - yes, but now that I'm using a track saw, I can see why so many people go that route.

Main uses: breaking down sheet goods and straight line ripping rough stock. I went with Festool I use the plunge cut for sheet goods and the circular saw version for rough cutting.

In your shop, you might find an MFT system would work. I don't know you're type of work or your pocketbook, but a real life cabinet saw will set you back enough to maybe justify the MFT route.

[Jim Dwight]

Thanks. I did not realize that Forrest made blades for circular saws. Glad to hear you get good cuts. It seems like more skil is still required, however, to keep the saw against the guide relative to a track saw. The need to clamp the guide I hessitate to say is a track saw advantage. I've often made cuts with mine without clamping but I've also had it shift. So if the cut is important I clamp - if possible. Plus I get good dust collection.

[Mark Hockenberg]

Hi Carl,

I'll throw in my two cents. I've cut sheet goods using your method, Festool track saw, cabinet saw and slider. I don't have the slider any more, as that was in a commercial shop I sold.

For my current home hobby work, my preference is the track saw over the other available methods. I get accurate, quick cuts with minimal effort. With a rail square from TSO Products, I get square cuts I can't get any other way (and only one pencil mark :)). I also use the track for routing, 32mm boring, etc., so for me, it serves many uses.

I found the investment to me more than worth it, but you have to judge that yourself. Since you're not sold on moving to a track saw, my advise is to visit a Woodcraft/Rockler and demo one or find a local woodworker who would show you theirs.

Cheers,
Mark

[michael dilday]

I use the homemade guide that Gary Striegler mentioned in his video.

It works great. I made 2 one 8' and another 4'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYdCv5R786c

[Bill Space]

I've always used a guide and a circular saw when breaking down plywood sheets. Worked well, but I often wondered about a track saw.

Then just before Christmas, Grizzly had a sale on their Grizzly T25552 - 6-1/4" Track Saw Master Pack. And they also had a free shipping promotion going on. The hook set quickly and I ordered one. Something like $165 plus 12 bucks oversized shipping charge, but the standard shipping was not charged (around $19). So for $177 plus tax I got a chance to see what the track saw is about. (that sale is apparently in effect until tomorrow, Dec 31). Kit included a 55" rail and two clamps, plus a piece for joining to a second 55" rail.

Anyway, I now see the advantages of a track saw. I like it. Especially, as pointed out above, the ability to line the track up on the cut marks, without having to add an offset. Am I the only one that marked the offset wrong and ended up with my cut being off by the amount of the offset? Will never happen with the track saw.

The second Grizzly track piece is expensive, relatively, as compared to the kit price when on sale. The first track I got was bent in shipment. Grizzly sent a second one and told me to do whatever I like with the first one (sent pictures of the damage). I may be able to salvage a portion of the damaged track. If so all the better.

At the end of the day, I am not sure spending $500 plus for a track saw would work for me. But as I get more use under my belt I may learn that it would be.

My conclusion is that the only way one can really understand the difference between a track saw and a circular saw with a home made (or other) guide is gain experience with both.

At this point I am starting to believe the track saw rules...:D

[Carl Crout]

I use the homemade guide that Gary Striegler mentioned in his video.

It works great. I made 2 one 8' and another 4'.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYdCv5R786c

That's similar to mine except I have a extra piece at the bottom that squares it against the piece I am cutting. I also use 1/4" hardboard for the bottom piece of the jig instead of plywood

[Carl Crout]

I've always used a guide and a circular saw when breaking down plywood sheets. Worked well, but I often wondered about a track saw.

Then just before Christmas, Grizzly had a sale on their Grizzly T25552 - 6-1/4" Track Saw Master Pack. And they also had a free shipping promotion going on. The hook set quickly and I ordered one. Something like $165 plus 12 bucks oversized shipping charge, but the standard shipping was not charged (around $19). So for $177 plus tax I got a chance to see what the track saw is about. (that sale is apparently in effect until tomorrow, Dec 31). Kit included a 55" rail and two clamps, plus a piece for joining to a second 55" rail.

Anyway, I now see the advantages of a track saw. I like it. Especially, as pointed out above, the ability to line the track up on the cut marks, without having to add an offset. Am I the only one that marked the offset wrong and ended up with my cut being off by the amount of the offset? Will never happen with the track saw.

The second Grizzly track piece is expensive, relatively, as compared to the kit price when on sale. The first track I got was bent in shipment. Grizzly sent a second one and told me to do whatever I like with the first one (sent pictures of the damage). I may be able to salvage a portion of the damaged track. If so all the better.

At the end of the day, I am not sure spending $500 plus for a track saw would work for me. But as I get more use under my belt I may learn that it would be.

My conclusion is that the only way one can really understand the difference between a track saw and a circular saw with a home made (or other) guide is gain experience with both.

At this point I am starting to believe the track saw rules...:D
Thanks Bill.
My guide works just like the track saw guide, you don't have to do any figuring related to offset.

For me the main advantage I see is that the saw rides on the track and won't move off of it so I don't have to worry about keeping it against the track.

I think I can take one of the guides that was mentioned above https://www.ptreeusa.com/clamp_progrip.html

and make a base for my saw that will ride on it. It will save me alot of money and take care of the one advantage mentioned above. Not counting a track saw out mind you, I have been eyeing the Dewalt.

[michael dilday]

That's similar to mine except I have a extra piece at the bottom that squares it against the piece I am cutting. I also use 1/4" hardboard for the bottom piece of the jig instead of plywood

The extra piece on the bottom is a great idea. Maybe I will modify mine.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Here's a test for those that say a shop made guide is just as good as a Festool, Makita or DeWalt....

Take a full sheet of 1/4" underlayment. (or anything really - Luan underlayment is one of the nastiest things to cut since it splinters so bad - but - not when using a decent track saw)
Cut it in half by starting the cut standing on one side of the sheet. Stop in the middle of the cut and go around to the other side of the sheet and resume cutting.

With two of the three saws I mentioned above, you'll find nothing on the cut line to show that the cut had been stopped and started. I know this for a fact because I own a Makita cordless and a Festool TS55EQ.

FWIW - this is not some sort of "try this even though it never happens in the real world" type of exercise. I'm constantly starting and stopping and restarting cuts - in order to avoid having to do things in an awkward position.
As long as the track doesn't move - which is one reason why I take the extra time to clamp mine, the cuts are always perfect. Not close....perfect.

The idea that a shop made track saw is anywhere near one of the quality track saws is on the same level as saying a 2x4 clamped to a table saw is every bit as good as a quality fence.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Rich,
You are exactly right. I have the Makita 36V cordless track saw with both tracks (4 ft. and 8 ft.) and I know exactly what you are talking about. Plus the nice rubber edge in the track keeps the edge nice and clean with no tear out.
David

[Jim Dwight]

I questioned the need before I bought my DeWalt but now that I have it, I would not want to go back. One of he many advantages is it allows me to make large furniture despite a table saw limited to 36 inch rips. Big pieces, solid or sheet goods, just get cut with the track saw. My "cut table" is my out feed/assembly table with a piece of one inch foam on top. I can back the pickup to a single garage door on that end of the shop and slide material from my truck onto the cut table. I can still cut on the floor level but why would I want to?

In terms of price, there are several levels. There is a Wen that is even cheaper than the Grizzly. I am sure there is some difference but you do not have to spend $500+ to have a track saw. To me the sweet spot is the Makita or DeWalt but if I had to use a Wen I would still want it. When considering the price, I think it is important to consider the track price. I got my DeWalt because I could get a long guide to cut 8 feet, a short guide to cut 4 feet, and the saw for about $600. The Festool saw is not that much more, saw to saw, but the guides are really expensive. You cannot get a 100+ inch track that I've seen for the cheapest saws, however. I haven't tried cutting with connected tracks but will soon to cut a straight edge on 12 foot boards.

It is also fully possible to use a track saw without pencil marks, you just have to make up what I call a track positioning jig. They are handy for repeated cuts. I got a Incra marking jig, however, shortly after getting the DeWalt because I noticed that my marks were a significant issue in the accuracy of my cuts. Like any new tool, you have to learn to get the most out of it. But they are simple to use.

[Tom M King]

I have been using shop made guides for over 40 years. My current favorite circular saws are the Porter Cable 347, and 743 magnesium, 12 amp. They are mirror images of each other, with one being a right bladed, and the other a left bladed. They can go both directions on the same track.

This particular cut was 20 feet long. No one can tell where one cut stops, and the other starts. This was for a job where we milled off 3/4" of deteriorated Heart Pine flooring, in an 1828 museum house, and laid in 3/4" of good Heart Pine to replace the bad parts. The second picture shows that job in process.

For framing a house, I keep another track for ripping plywood sheathing that uses a 10-1/4" Milwaukee circular saw. We can stack sheets 3" thick, or more, and cut them all at once. If one sheet on the bundle doesn't get cut all the way through, that gives us a good guide where to set the "track" for the next cut.

I wouldn't mind having a track saw, if someone gave it to me, but so far, have no need to buy one. The only difference I see is dust collection. In the old houses I work on, or cutting outside, sawdust matters little.

We don't use it for "breaking down" sheet goods. I have helpers, so plywood for cabinets gets cut to final size with the first cut, usually on a table saw.

http://historic-house-restoration.com/images/ElamsHouse_Oct._2012_025.JPG

http://historic-house-restoration.com/images/novdec2012_008.JPG

[Dan Baginski]

I have the old two pieces of plywood glued and nailed together. The top piece is the guide and the bottom piece is the straight edge where the cut will be made. Works just fine and it cost me about $20. Maybe takes a few seconds longer to set up on my marks and clamp down. Big deal.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I bought my Festool TS55 about 8 or 9 years ago, with one 4' track. I splurged and bought a second 4' track.

I use the connectors to cut 8' lengths and can barely feel where the saw passes the joint in the track.

I liked the track saw so much, I bought the Festool MFT table. This probably has been my least favorite Festool product, great if you have limited space, but I found it limited for what I needed it for most, which was cross cutting 90 degrees, the width is just too narrow.

I've bought a few TSO products, to use with the track saw. The 90 angle attachment is the best and gets used a lot. I bought their parallel guides, which allow you to rip consistent widths easily, but those were overkill and that's a tool I probably shouldn't have bought.

What the Festool track saw lead me to do was make my own Festool type MFT table top, out of MDF, and allow me to cross cut, up to 36", at pretty much any angle I choose. This past weekend, I helped a friend make a new fireplace mantle. He needed 45 degree cuts on the end of a 8' long x 10" wide board. This was easy with the track saw and the bench dogs holes on the homemade MFT top.

I rip all my sheets down, laid on the floor, on top of a 2" pink insulation board.

I once ripped a 2" x 4", into 2, across the diagonal corners, using the track saw.

The track saw is not a tool I use everyday, like my table saw, but when needed, it is priceless.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

I think track saw is better than a power saw and a guide for every activity associated with a panel break. It will be faster to setup and probably more precise at most situations also.

On the other hand the traditional power saw is more convenient to work in Carpentry than a track saw for most activities.

The question is if a track saw is worth for you. It will depends of a lot of variables including your disposable cash, how frequently you need break panels, your preference for generalist against specific tools, and so on.

Personally I stay with my power saw and a heavy duty aluminium L guide I use for 26 years. I love to have multifunctional tools and breaking (at average) just a couple of panels per year I cannot justify a track saw to myself.

[Cary Falk]

I think the difference is like comparing a bicycle to a car. Both will get you to work but......

I didn't see anybody talk about the fact that when you bevel the blade the cut line stays in the same place.

[julian abram]

"The only advantage that I see is that with my guide I have to make sure I keep the saw up against it while a track saw runs on tracks."

Yes, and you hit the nail on the head with this observation. It is difficult to make a long rip, say 8', without repositioning your hands or the trailing power cord or taking steps and repositioning your body. Resulting in a bobble with the saw moving away from your guide. We have all used saw guides for years thinking we don't need a darn ole track saw...………… until we buy one and think why didn't I get one of these years ago? The cut may not be any better with the tracksaw but there is some value for the easy of operation and the smile on your face.

[mike stenson]

I think the difference is like comparing a bicycle to a car. Both will get you to work but......

I didn't see anybody talk about the fact that when you bevel the blade the cut line stays in the same place.

This is a pretty big advantage, being able to bevel EXACTLY where you want it without calculations. Then again, I'm fortunate to have a track saw (that has paid back every cent I paid for it almost 20 years ago now), and several standard circular saws.

Another thing I love track saws for is repair work on wood flooring, which I haven't seen mentioned either.

[Leo Graywacz]

If you are a hobbyist then a circular saw and home made track is fine. If you can make the track perfectly straight that's even better, but it can be a challenge.

If you are a professional and you do this for a living just go out and get one of the systems. I have the Festool T55 and got it before it got crazy pricing. I think I paid $550 for the saw, 55" track, systainer and clamps. This more or less eliminates the need for a tablesaw in the field. Not completely, but for the most part. It gives accurate cuts pretty quickly.

Had a buddy that was going to be installing some MDF beadboard for one of his clients and asked if he could borrow it after he had helped me out many times and I had used the saw on the job.

He borrowed it and it made his job so much more easy. He borrowed it one more time and then he bought his own even they he had told me earlier that it was just too expensive. That was until it made the work that much quicker and more profitable. 3 jobs later it had paid for itself for him.

I use mine in the shop to put straight edges on plywood and to cut sheet good lengths that are difficult to do on my (standard) tablesaw. Something like a side of a pantry cabinet that would be 24"x 85". Makes life so much easier.

But I wouldn't use it in the shop as my normal means to cut plywood rips because the tablesaw is so much faster and more accurate.

It has it's place, and in the field it rocks.

[Jim Becker]

If you are a hobbyist then a circular saw and home made track is fine.
Not sure I'd agree with that, per se...it really comes down to the level and kind of work one does and which will best support their individual needs. It doesn't matter if they are doing the work for their own enjoyment or to get more shekels into their pockets when it comes to this kind of choice.

[Bill Space]

I think the difference is like comparing a bicycle to a car. Both will get you to work but......

I didn't see anybody talk about the fact that when you bevel the blade the cut line stays in the same place.

I laughed when I read your post Cary.

As someone who commuted to work nearly every day for five years, year round, 32 miles per day ( when in his 50s), by bicycle, I can assure the comparison is more like the difference between a motorcycle and a car...:)

Point well taken though, there truly is a difference.

[Leo Graywacz]

Not sure I'd agree with that, per se...it really comes down to the level and kind of work one does and which will best support their individual needs. It doesn't matter if they are doing the work for their own enjoyment or to get more shekels into their pockets when it comes to this kind of choice.

Well most aren't willing to plunk down $600-700 for equipment. And of course there are different levels of hobbyists. I know some hobbyists that have shops that I'm jealous of.

[Dan Rude]

Thoughts on this system? https://www.truetracsaw.com/products/truetrac-8-combo-kit?variant=1114919885&currency=USD&utm_campaign=gs-2019-10-16&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=CjwKCAiAuqHwBRAQEiwAD-zr3ROHa9aDhy5kHjZeaobJYKJ9cOzS1UAas9ZENfk6jRwqhmCb Gnai3hoC-90QAvD_BwE


I have the truetrac saw guide system. Was debating on the Kreg system, because it was a left side blade. Price was $400 with the long track this Holiday. Decided to stick with the TrueTrac for the following reasons. 1. Already had the 8' system. Upgraded the saw plate to their new one with dust collection. Then picked up their squaring attachment. The reason I have liked it is that it uses 2 bars for connecting the rails, the bars are dove tailed. This keeps the rails straight and true with very little adjustment. I like it better the the other system that uses your own saw. I also like the fact I can use either my corded saw or my M18 Milwaukee Fuel 6.5". I also just got the router base. I have to set up the new accessories and may review them. My total cost is right around $285 for the upgrades. My show cost was about $400 for the 8' kit, upgraded clamps and the TrueTrac Expandable Track Table Kit. Dan

[Cary Falk]

I laughed when I read your post Cary.

As someone who commuted to work nearly every day for five years, year round, 32 miles per day ( when in his 50s), by bicycle, I can assure the comparison is more like the difference between a motorcycle and a car...:)

Point well taken though, there truly is a difference.

A bicycle is slower, more work, cheaper, less versatile, and a pain in my a**(literally). Yep, sounds like a bicycle to me.:D

[Craig Andresen]

Also, with some systems (I use and love the Eurekazone, despite several frustrating aspects of the full system) you can also attach other tools, like a router. Doing "outside" routing with a track is incredible. I would NEVER go back to a table or a simple guide for this task. Also, because the router is held to the work, you can cut in the "wrong" direction, which gives a better finished surface.


Can you clarify what you mean by outside routing, and how do you attach your router to the track? I’m considering a track saw, but if there are other uses for the track I wasn’t considering that would make it an easier decision :-).

[Frank Drackman]

I use my router on my Dewalt track much more frequently than I use the saw. I know that Festool & Dewalt offer adapter plates that ride on the track and attach to the router. I expect that other companies also offer something similar.

Using the router is not as convient as the saw because there is an offset. With the bit I use most often the offset is 3.5" from the track to the leading edge of the bit.


Can you clarify what you mean by outside routing, and how do you attach your router to the track? I’m considering a track saw, but if there are other uses for the track I wasn’t considering that would make it an easier decision :-).

[Mike Cutler]

Can you clarify what you mean by outside routing, and how do you attach your router to the track? I’m considering a track saw, but if there are other uses for the track I wasn’t considering that would make it an easier decision :-).

Craig
Most, if not all by now, of the tracksaw systems have a router adapted carriage plate that runs on the track. Because the adapter is keyed to the track, the router has no choice but to move in an orientation parallel to the track. It is fixed. It can't dip in and out, and doesn't rely on the user maintaining the usual edge guide adapter tight to the edge and perpendicular to the face of the material.
An edge guide will follow the edge. With the track you can accommodate for an edge that may not be uniform, removing a little more or less from one end or the other. Your reference is no longer the edge, but the track.
Doing long stopped dados, slots, or grooves, in the field of the material, with a track is much easier for all the same reasons.

[Jim Becker]

I happen to use Festools system. In addition to the track-saw, I run my OF1400 router on the track (both with and without the MFT table/fence) and have also used my Festool jigsaw on the track once or twice when it was the right tool for the job at hand relative to depth of cut.

[Craig Andresen]

Craig
Most, if not all by now, of the tracksaw systems have a router adapted carriage plate that runs on the track. Because the adapter is keyed to the track, the router has no choice but to move in an orientation parallel to the track. It is fixed. It can't dip in and out, and doesn't rely on the user maintaining the usual edge guide adapter tight to the edge and perpendicular to the face of the material.
An edge guide will follow the edge. With the track you can accommodate for an edge that may not be uniform, removing a little more or less from one end or the other. Your reference is no longer the edge, but the track.
Doing long stopped dados, slots, or grooves, in the field of the material, with a track is much easier for all the same reasons.

That’s awesome, thanks. Searching on Amazon I see the DeWalt, Makita, Triton, Festool... I have a mishmash of routers and am actually looking at the Wen track saw, but I bet I can find one that will work for me!

[Cristobal Figueroa]

I have no need of a track saw. I can understand that they are handy for guys who toss them in their trucks.

What I cannot understand is how the people who make these things have the idea that about 20 bucks worth of aluminum extrusion, some bolts and a plate to mount the saw on should cost $500. It is no doubt a very profitable item.

Should not be long before we see the prices fall through the floor as foreign competition figures out there is a huge opportunity.

Clearly there is mark up on tracks and track saws (capitalism), but there is no need to exaggerate that mark up. Unless you are purchasing very large amounts even non specialized aluminum extrusion is pricey especially if you cannot source long pieces locally and have to pay for shipping an over size package. That alone is often over 20$. Then you have to take the time to design and build a sled. Then you need to have decent circular saw, a quality blade. A lot of people choose to ignore that festool includes a very nice blade with the saw, while many circular saws come with a blade you immediately throw away or save for when you need to cut up something with embedded nails. Then after all that tinkering you are left with a setup that still isn’t as easy to use as even a mid level brand track saw.
A track saw may be a unneeded luxury if you always work in your shop and have a nice table saw or slider. But if you work with sheet goods a lot, and/or frequently are doing work onsite in a situation where time saved = money there is no doubt that a track saw is solid investment. This doesn’t even take into account all of the other benefits and possibilities that are opened up with a purpose built track system.

[Allan Speers]

I think tracks are expensive, because it's very hard to manufacture long piece of extruded aluminum that are extremely straight. - Hence the insane prices for really good, long straight edges.

[Terry Wawro]

I agree. I just can't understand why a piece of aluminum and a few connectors cost so much. I'll also admit that if I was a pro, I'd buy a track saw today. They are just too efficient to not have one. As a hobby woodworker, I can't justify the cost. Well,.....not yet anyway.

[Dave Sabo]

I agree. I just can't understand why a piece of aluminum and a few connectors cost so much. I'll also admit that if I was a pro, I'd buy a track saw today. They are just too efficient to not have one. As a hobby woodworker, I can't justify the cost. Well,.....not yet anyway.

It's because it's not just a generic piece of aluminum. The raw material is only part of the price. All of the tracks have at least two anti slip strips on the bottom , plus a sacrificial splinter guard. Most have two anti friction strips on the topside. All of these pieces add raw material cost as well as labor or expensive manuf. lines to put them all on. Shipping also adds more than you think to the price. Ever shipped a 4' + long piece of anything lately ?

[David Buchhauser]

It's because it's not just a generic piece of aluminum. The raw material is only part of the price. All of the tracks have at least two anti slip strips on the bottom , plus a sacrificial splinter guard. Most have two anti friction strips on the topside. All of these pieces add raw material cost as well as labor or expensive manuf. lines to put them all on. Shipping also adds more than you think to the price. Ever shipped a 4' + long piece of anything lately ?


You've got it exactly right! The dimensional tolerances need to be pretty close, with no twist, warping, bending, etc. I've got both the 4 ft. and 8 ft. Makita tracks and they are pretty much right on. Definitely not just your average everyday aluminum extrusion.

David

[Terry Wawro]

I don't know if the tolerances are the main reason. If I believe anything, it's more like economy of scale. For instance I can buy a B&W laser printer for $59. Think about that. All those complex gears, lasers, feed rollers, housing, circuit boards, software, toner cartridge, power cord, shipping and profit.
To give you a clean, crisp print out the tolerances on everything have to be tight. Somehow they can design, fabricate, program, build, and ship this marvel of complex engineering all for only $59. How? Because they are making a gazillion of them.

[Leo Graywacz]

Because you have to buy a toner cartridge that is $109.00 after the original runs out.

[Mike Cutler]

Because you have to buy a toner cartridge that is $109.00 after the original runs out.

You must have an old HP DeskJet like I do. Last time I checked, it was going to be almost $130.00 to replace both cartridges.

The aluminum extrusion is expensive. Too expensive in my mind, but it is what it is. I just think that for that cost, you should be able to butt one track up to another, tighten the clamping bars, and have a dead straight edge with the two connected tracks. Not the case though. I use a 6' Starrett machine rule to align mine.
Anybody ever re-cut the butted ends of the tracks, so that they self align without the need for some type of alignment straight edge?

[David Buchhauser]

Even if you cut (machine) the ends of the tracks perfect, it would still be problematic to align them over that distance. For accurate results with 2 tracks joined together, I believe you are using the correct method.
Some may not require the best precision, in which case just bolting them together may be ok. That is exactly why I purchased the long Makita track (it is long enough to cut a full 4 x 8 sheet diagonally).
I think you "get what you pay for" with these - both saws and tracks. I'm sure I spent well north of $800 for my Makita cordless 36V saw with both the 4 ft. and 8 ft. tracks. Maybe it is "overkill", but I do enjoy using it. Pretty sure the Festools cost alot more. Maybe they are better.
David

[Carl Crout]

It's because it's not just a generic piece of aluminum. The raw material is only part of the price. All of the tracks have at least two anti slip strips on the bottom , plus a sacrificial splinter guard. Most have two anti friction strips on the topside. All of these pieces add raw material cost as well as labor or expensive manuf. lines to put them all on. Shipping also adds more than you think to the price. Ever shipped a 4' + long piece of anything lately ?

I assume the splinter guards are replaceable? If so how do they attach?

Same question for the no slip strips. Do they just stick on?

[Ole Anderson]

Anybody ever re-cut the butted ends of the tracks, so that they self align without the need for some type of alignment straight edge?

I have Grizzly tracks, they self align perfectly as the ends are factory milled to a perfect 90 degrees. No straightedge needed. Maybe I got lucky, but the industrial saws used to cut extrusions are orders of magnitude better than what we have in our shop. Although I will say I once saw a Copper and Brass Sales employee cutting heavy (maybe 4' x 8' x 1.5") aluminum plate with a Skil saw on the floor.

[Jim Becker]

I assume the splinter guards are replaceable? If so how do they attach?

Same question for the no slip strips. Do they just stick on?
Yes, replacement guards, etc., are adhesive backed. When one replaces the splinter guard, the first thing you do is the same as with a new track...your very first cut is to establish the exact edge of the blade by running the saw down the track and trimming the new splinter guard. It's truly zero clearance on the guide side, supports the edge of the material and gives you the the exact cut line to line up on your (presumably accurate) measurements on the workpiece. The guards don't really need to be replaced unless they are inadvertently damaged or wear after a very long period of use or if one changes to a saw blade that has different measurements than the original one used with the track.

[Mike Cutler]

I have Grizzly tracks, they self align perfectly as the ends are factory milled to a perfect 90 degrees. No straightedge needed. Maybe I got lucky, but the industrial saws used to cut extrusions are orders of magnitude better than what we have in our shop. Although I will say I once saw a Copper and Brass Sales employee cutting heavy (maybe 4' x 8' x 1.5") aluminum plate with a Skil saw on the floor.

Ole
The Festool Guide Rails I have, definitely do not align if simply butted up against each other.

[Tim M Tuttle]

Even if you cut (machine) the ends of the tracks perfect, it would still be problematic to align them over that distance. For accurate results with 2 tracks joined together, I believe you are using the correct method.
Some may not require the best precision, in which case just bolting them together may be ok. That is exactly why I purchased the long Makita track (it is long enough to cut a full 4 x 8 sheet diagonally).
I think you "get what you pay for" with these - both saws and tracks. I'm sure I spent well north of $800 for my Makita cordless 36V saw with both the 4 ft. and 8 ft. tracks. Maybe it is "overkill", but I do enjoy using it. Pretty sure the Festools cost alot more. Maybe they are better.
DavidI spent similar on my cordless DeWalt with two tracks. That price was worth it for the dust collection alone. I absolutely hate dealing with dust. Love my track saw and would recommend one to anyone that can afford it.

[mike stenson]

Ole
The Festool Guide Rails I have, definitely do not align if simply butted up against each other.

There should be a 1mm gap between them. This accounts for any error in mfg, OR damage to the ends.

[Carl Crout]

Yes, replacement guards, etc., are adhesive backed. When one replaces the splinter guard, the first thing you do is the same as with a new track...your very first cut is to establish the exact edge of the blade by running the saw down the track and trimming the new splinter guard. It's truly zero clearance on the guide side, supports the edge of the material and gives you the the exact cut line to line up on your (presumably accurate) measurements on the workpiece. The guards don't really need to be replaced unless they are inadvertently damaged or wear after a very long period of use or if one changes to a saw blade that has different measurements than the original one used with the track.

Thanks Jim

[Allan Speers]

Even if you cut (machine) the ends of the tracks perfect, it would still be problematic to align them over that distance. For accurate results with 2 tracks joined together, I believe you are using the correct method.
Some may not require the best precision, in which case just bolting them together may be ok. That is exactly why I purchased the long Makita track (it is long enough to cut a full 4 x 8 sheet diagonally).
David

Definitely.

A 1mm deviance at the joint (or a piece of dirt) could mean 1/8" or more at the end of a long track.

With my EZ system, I bought 2 extra tracks so as to make a dedicated 10' long one. Once I had it dead-nuts, I epoxied it together at the joint. It just hangs on my wall, horizontally, until needed.

[Scott T Smith]

One significant advantage of a high quality track saw is the accuracy of the cuts. We routinely use our TS55 and a pair of long tracks to make glue-line rip quality cuts in boards up to 20’ long. This length lumber is difficult to run across an edge jointer but the Festool track Saw provides a highly accurate cut that requires no additional work before glue up.

I dont think that a cut that precise can be obtained simply with a guide on long cuts.

[David Buchhauser]

One significant advantage of a high quality track saw is the accuracy of the cuts. We routinely use our TS55 and a pair of long tracks to make glue-line rip quality cuts in boards up to 20’ long. This length lumber is difficult to run across an edge jointer but the Festool track Saw provides a highly accurate cut that requires no additional work before glue up.

I dont think that a cut that precise can be obtained simply with a guide on long cuts.


Hi Scott,
I think you have a valid point. A precision aluminum track is undoubtedly straighter than a fabricated wood guide. That is one of the reasons I switched to my Makita track saw with the 8ft.+ track length.
David

[Carl Crout]

Hi Scott,
I think you have a valid point. A precision aluminum track is undoubtedly straighter than a fabricated wood guide. That is one of the reasons I switched to my Makita track saw with the 8ft.+ track length.
David I don't know about that. I think MDF is pretty darn straight. Why don't some of you guys with the tracks lay your track against a MDF edge and report back how straight MDF really is?

Thanks.

BTW glad I started this thread. Learning a lot and definitely see some advantages to a track saw but mainly for professionals

[Leo Graywacz]

I use to say that about most sheet goods, that the edges were straight. But about 5-6 years ago the plywood started coming in with edges that were no where near straight over the 8' length. I no longer trust any sheet good for having a straight edge.

[mike stenson]

I don't know about that. I think MDF is pretty darn straight. Why don't some of you guys with the tracks lay your track against a MDF edge and report back how straight MDF really is?


I'm not going to trust that MDF is actually straight because, well.. IME it's not always.

[Jim Becker]

I use to say that about most sheet goods, that the edges were straight. But about 5-6 years ago the plywood started coming in with edges that were no where near straight over the 8' length. I no longer trust any sheet good for having a straight edge.
....or square corners...

[Mike Cutler]

One significant advantage of a high quality track saw is the accuracy of the cuts. We routinely use our TS55 and a pair of long tracks to make glue-line rip quality cuts in boards up to 20’ long. This length lumber is difficult to run across an edge jointer but the Festool track Saw provides a highly accurate cut that requires no additional work before glue up.

I don't think that a cut that precise can be obtained simply with a guide on long cuts.

Scott
Thank you for an out of box idea moment.
I have used a shaper do perform edge jointing on numerous occasions. I think I can flip my longer Festool Guide rail around, or one of the EZ rails I have, and use it as a back fence with the shaper.
I've made a bunch of different back fences over time. You would have thought I would have looked at those guide rails hanging on the wall years ago, and seen a backfence.:o
Thank you.

[Leo Graywacz]

....or square corners...

Gave up on square for sheet goods 2 decades ago.