Your favorite finish for bowls

[Dueane Hicks]

I was just using a popular walnut oil for a finish on a burl bowl; I then used the same brand's wax. Although the oil brought out the grain; there was very little sheen to it. I have had poor results from trying shine juice on burl also. It just won't build up without lines in it. I think I'll go to spray Deft over sanding sealer.

What is your go to finish that has some depth?

[Terry Vaughan]

For years I've relied on a couple of coats (more if it soaks in quickly) of Rustin's danish oil on the bare wood after sanding to 320 or sometimes 400. I buff with Beall's tripoli only and no wax. The result is normally fine, though some woods are a little woolly and might benefit from sealing. If that happens, a little wet sanding (with white spirit) after the oil has cured, then re-oiling fixes it.

The finish has a low shine, sometimes a bit too high, and is said to be food safe. If I want a higher gloss I buff with the white diamond and wax.

It's an easy process, but I'm interested in anything better.

[bob pfohler]

Most of my turnings have been decorative so it’s de-waxed 1lb. cut shellac for a sanding sealer. A second coat 2lb. cut and a couple coats of spray on lacquer.

[Prashun Patel]

I like spray can finishes for bowls like behlens stringed instrument finish.


Or you can buff the finish with a system like Beall.

[Reed Gray]

Well, any bowl that gets used a lot, the finish will go dull eventually. I personally don't like a gloss finish. Any surface finish on a utility bowl will eventually crack, chip, and peel off, and most people can not fix that at home. The walnut oil won't get a high shine finish, but that never stopped them from selling for me...

robo hippy

[Randy Heinemann]

I have almost exclusively used a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil since I started turning a couple of years ago. I also don't like high gloss finishes on most things and the beeswax/mineral oil gives a nice soft look to the bowls. I actually buy it from another turner I know even though I know I could make it myself. I get a good price on it and don't have to mess with heating up the beeswax, etc. I do like Aussie Oil on pens. It does give a shiny finish as it is a friction finish but, on the pens, it looks good and really brings out the grain and enhances the beauty of each type of wood (as does the beeswax and mineral oil).

[Don Stephan]

When listening to turners discuss craft shows the expression I hear repeatedly is "Shine sells."
Nothing is easier than wiping on an oil finish, but the result never will be even a satin sheen, no matter how many coats.

For years my favorite finish was a wiping varnish made by mixing 50-50 a good quality mineral spirits and Pratt & Lambers alkyd varnish. Unfortunately P&L alkyd was discontinued last summer. I experimented with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish but found the finish would not stand up to even several months of daily washing with a drop of liquid dish soap (black cherry cereal bowl). A reply to an email query to the manufacturer said the bonds in the finish are broken down by soap. So I am still looking.

[robert baccus]

After doing bowls and urns for 30 years i have observed this. Any finish you like is great. A pore free film finish will sell best. Gloss is ok--my fave is to use: SS, high gloss pre-cat. Mohawk lacquer, wet sand with fine sponge, buff (on the lathe) with auto liquid buffing compounds to various degrees of gloss. They offer many grits in compounds. Sounds long but quite quick if you leave it on the lathe until ready to sign. Old Forester PS--clear danidh oil can be used to pop the color before finishing.

[Stark Suggs]

It may be overkill, but I sand up to 600 and buff out as much dust as possible... then use a 1.5# cut dewaxed blonde as a wash coat/sealer followed by 50/50 wiping varnish and paint thinner. Sherwin Williams makes (or used to) their Wood Classics "fast dry oil varnish". If you want it, the product number us 6403-15917.

SWS

[John K Jordan]

When listening to turners discuss craft shows the expression I hear repeatedly is "Shine sells."
Nothing is easier than wiping on an oil finish, but the result never will be even a satin sheen, no matter how many coats.


I must be doing something different. 8-10 coats of "danish" oil (some wet sanded with oil and 600 or finer paper as needed, each wiped off gently after 20 minutes or so and dried overnight) will result in anything from satin to near gloss depending on what I rub/polish it with when completely dry. I personally don't like mirror gloss. I don't make things to sell so I don't care about that. I've never had someone turn one down as a gift.

JKJ

[robert baccus]

Believe it or not but 2 coats of Pre-cat lac., over SS for pores, will give the finish of 8-10 coats of regular lacquer. Requires a slow retardarding thinner but is several times as tough as regular lac. and finishes. The stuff keeps crosslinking after drying into a very scratch resistant finish. It wet sands and buffs in minutes after drying of course, Have done hundreds this way in my semi-pro turning which is probably over due to Lyme. Dam ticks. Old Forester

[Don Stephan]

JKJ
Glad you are getting satin and better with danish oil. I'm jealous. Unfortunately I do not have the patience for that many applications, nor for rubbing out, nor could I afford that. I have to try to sell what I make, and with an approx $1000/month commercial overhead for my studio, it is very difficult to get a break even or better price with significantly less time for finishing.

[robert baccus]

One problem with linseed and danish oils is that they will darken with time, a lot. Tung oils are superior in this and durability as well. Not as easy and fast but the basis of all oil bases marine varnishes. Any can be overcoated with a film finish to almost stop darkening.

[John K Jordan]

... I have to try to sell what I make, and with an approx $1000/month commercial overhead for my studio, it is very difficult to get a break even or better price with significantly less time for finisI sohing.

Yikes, I don't envy you! The last thing I want is a job - the farm keeps me plenty busy!

Hey, maybe you should try getting into making and selling rider's crops for Hunter Jumpers. I've accidentally made $thousands from those without trying very hard, especially since I don't like to make things to sell. The last one I sold was $200 - my wife's cousin showed some pictures to a neighbor and told her they were $300 but I offered her a discount. :) I've also made some for Dresssage but I don't like to since they take more time to make and balance.

You live quite near horse county, don't you?

(I may have shown you these pictures before)

422875 422876

On these I used a variety of finishes but mostly Tru-Oil gunstock finish which is quite quick. If you are interested take a short road trip for a visit and I'll show you everything I know.

A dressage "whip":
422877

JKJ