New (to me) planer questions

[Jon Endres]

I was fast enough to be the first guy responding to a Facebook ad, and scored a minty-fresh JET JWP-15CS planer (708529) with an extra set of knives for $500. Not sure of the age of the machine but it looks to have a pretty low serial number, I did send a e-mail to JET customer service asking about date of manufacture. I'm guessing it's early-2000's vintage, possibly late 90's? JET also does not have an owner's manual listed for this model anymore, so I asked about that too. Just in case I never hear back from them - does anyone have an owner's manual for this particular model that they would be willing to scan and send to me?

While transporting, it's winter here in Vermont and I got some blowing snow around the machine which caused a little bit of flash rust on a few parts - tops of the posts/columns, the feed rollers, and the kickback fingers. Any thoughts on how to get rid of that without disassembling the whole machine? This is otherwise in operating condition and needs nothing, so I would rather not tear anything down until I have to.

It's a 3HP, 230V motor, and I am not sure if I should be using a 30-amp or 20-amp breaker. The previous owner had a NEMA L6-20P plug on it, and I also run my 3HP Unisaw on a 20A circuit, so I would think I can stick to 20.

A question about setting thickness - it does not appear to have a head 'lock' which I am used to on my existing machine. How to I make sure the head doesn't drift on me while planing? Any other general advice about this machine, maybe from others who own or have owned one? It's replacing a Ridgid TP1300 which I am going to give to my father-in-law who does not have a planer.

[Michael A. Tyree]

Simply use a light abrasive like 400 grit paper or 0000 steel wool on the rust. On keeping it rust free, good luck. I spent ,lots of time looking at Boesheild and other rust preventatives and settled back on a hard wax as I have used for many years. I'm not very anal about light rust on my planer as it gets the least often use of my large machines and mostly the in/out tables at that. Mice like to make a home inside so i habitually blow mine out with high pressure air before I power up.
Mine has a 230v , 5hp motor always been on a 20 amp breaker. I lock my head on my Taiwan, "Transpower" branded planer but honestly it doesn't "drift" as mechanical resisatnce in the acme screws, etc. prevent it moving, so it's sort of a play it safe measure. Other than lube jobs mine has been ticking along for many years with only the 3 piece belt set changed out as the OEM belts proved to be soft and wore out after a couple years.

[Bill Dufour]

poor copy here:

(http://ww4b.org/owner_manuals/Jet_JWP-15CS%20Planer.txt)http://ww4b.org/owner_manuals/Jet_JWP-15CS%20Planer.txt

LOOK FOR LINK HERE:
https://www.southern-tool.com/store/15_jet_planer.php

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS BASED ON PARKS PLANER:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Getting%20Peak%20Planer%20Performance.ashx (https://www.southern-tool.com/store/15_jet_planer.php)

BILL D.

[Matt Day]

There should be two knobs on the belt side that lock the table. My table will drift slightly when the hand wheel handle isn’t at 6:00, so i lock the table for final passes and if the handle isn’t at 6:00.

[Andrew Nemeth]

I have a late 90’s blue version of that planer (I think Jet switched to white sometime around 2000). Mine has a partially closed stand, but the workings of the planer should be very similar, if not the same. It’s specter at 3hp and I run it off of a custom made extension cord on a dedicated 30amp 240v circuit. It was originally set up by an electrician, so I have just followed along as I have moved and desired. My planer is like Matt’s with two knobs on the belt side of the table to lock the table setting. Honestly, I almost never tighten them down as I have never seen any noticeable creep/drift when I have forgotten I tighten them down. At most, I tighten for the final pass when thickness is critical. As for an instruction manual, I will try to find mine. If I can locate it, I will scan and send. To be quite frank, if I recall correctly, the manual was not very helpful and even include incorrect information about wiring the mag switch. My local dealer ended up sending out a tech to and a new switch to get it running the first time. A forum like this, current tech support (if available), and/or YouTube is really your best bet for setting it up and/or troubleshooting. I recently had to replace the worm drive shaft after an incident on a moving truck snapped the shaft separating the height adjustment handle from the machine. The manual was pretty useless as many of the parts are no longer available or have been updated and have new part numbers. Fortunately, I was able to order a replacement part from Grizzly that fit, but it was a gamble. A few of the extra parts I ordered ‘just in case’ would not have fit if I would have needed them.

Enjoy your new planer, it appears you scored a good deal! Let me know if you have any specific questions. I’d be happy to try to help you out or photograph anything that may be helpful.

Cheers!

[Mark Daily]

Krud Kutter “The must for rust” is a very good rust remover that you simply spray on. No need to remove unless your dealing with heavy rusting. Says it will prevent rust from reoccurring for up to 12 months.

Ive used it for many years but don’t know how long it really prevents rust on bare metal as I generally use it prior to repainting something.

[Matt Day]

Just to clarify with my planer: if I run ten 4’ boards through my planer without the table locked, the first one will be slightly thinner than the last one. That’s no good when batch planing what’s supposed to be all the same thickness.