Resaw Techniques

[Hank Keller]

I have noticed a couple different methods of resaw fences and would like to get the more experienced ww's opinion on why there are differences.

One version is that using a tall fence the entire length of the BS table. Once adjusted for drift, you run the pieces through.

Another is a fence that is tapered both infront of and behind the centerline of the blade.

And similiar to that is what is on my new Rikon 10-340, in which there is a round post.

Which of these works best?

[Jamie Buxton]

I've tried all three schemes you mention. The one I use now is just a straight fence. It stops a couple inches past the blade, so if the cut pieces want to bend a bit, they can do it without jacking the stock away from the fence.

[Scott D Johnson]

I have the Kreg resaw guide(I believe formerly manufactured by Mark Duginske). http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5245 If one FOLLOWS THE DIRECTIONS/TECHNIQUE, it works great. I was surprised at how easy it was to "master" the technique. Although I am a novice WW, I would never try resawing without a quality Timberwolf or better quality resaw blade. IMHO, it is just as important if not more so, than the guide/fence.

[Brian Jarnell]

Straight fence for me too,no problems.

[Jim Becker]

The saw and the blade may make a difference in what you choose. The very common 14" saw with a typical steel blade generally will get increased drift quicker than a heavier saw running a carbide tipped blade. For that reason, some folks find a single point fence to be convenient for resawing on the smaller saw. If you find a blade/tension combination that offers good consistancy, then the longer, straight fence will work out fine. A lot of this really has to do with the blade since IT is what causes any drift as the set of the teeth starts to wander on one side, etc. The better the blade, the less, or at least more predictable the drift will be and the easier it will be to use a straight fence.

I used a single point (Duginski) resaw fence on the 14" Jet saw I used to own with the 1/2" or 3/4" Timberwolf blades I used for resawing. (Not a lot since the power was, um...lacking) I use a straight fence with my MM16 with both a 1/2" Timberwolf and the 1" Trimaster carbide tipped blade. The 1" blade has zero drift/leading and the 1/2" blade is dead on at first, but starts to wander after a time.

[Scott D Johnson]

Excellent points made by Jim Becker regarding the type of saw you are using. As always, the "in the trenches experience" of the members of this forum shines. It seems people usually post their "real life non-embellished" experiences on this site.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

I have an old Hitachi resaw bandsaw, it has a massive blade, but it does still have drift.

I have a fence that ends at the back of the blade, it works VERY well.

I can consistently cut slices that are only 1 mm thick.

Cheers!