Lubrication for wood drilling?

[johnny means]

So this needs to happen a couple of hundred times. 3/4" bradpoint into endgrain 6" deep. Obviously, friction is my enemy. What options do I have for lubrication/cooling that won't screw with my finishing?

[Zachary Hoyt]

Nothing that I know of. The way to control heat is by finding the right speed setting and the right feed rate for the job in hand, and having a sharp drill bit. Spinning the drill too fast and feeding the drill into the wood too slowly are what create heat in my experience. Also running a vac with a small nozzle next to the hole will help to pull the debris out faster, I think, and save heat.
Zach

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Johnny,
I have used Ivory white bar soap for many years as a lubricant on wood screws or sheet rock screws when I am driving them into harder wood. I apply it dry by just rubbing the screws onto the soap bar. I would imagine this would help with drilling as well - as long as the bar soap residue does not affect your finishing.
David

[Lee Schierer]

I've tried soap, beeswax and paraffin. In my experience unlike screws, anything you apply to a drill, will either get wiped off after just a few holes or will boil off due to heat even if reapplied. Drilling that size hole that deep in one operation is going to produce a lot of heat, you can reduce that by clearing chips several times as you drill each hole.

[John K Jordan]

So this needs to happen a couple of hundred times. 3/4" bradpoint into endgrain 6" deep. Obviously, friction is my enemy. What options do I have for lubrication/cooling that won't screw with my finishing?

I drill deep holes on the lathe with a Forstner rather than a brad point. From the first touch of the bit I direct a strong stream of compressed air at the back of the bit and down the hole as it deepens. The air keeps the bit cool while blowing the chips away from the cutting edge and out of the hole. Nothing is new under the sun, but I never heard of anyone using this method. Since the first time I tried it, I haven't drilled without the compressed air.

My holes are usually larger diameter than 3/4" but perhaps this would work for you. It's guaranteed not to mess with your finish! (unless you don't filter your compressed air)

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

I'm with John...and the best and only way to mitigate heat is to cut, back to clear, cut some more, back to clear, etc. Just like with larger "more automated" machines, you need to clear the chips and they do take heat away at the same time.

[Andrew Seemann]

I can't think of any lubricant that wouldn't gum up the sawdust and chips on the way out. I have found that bright finish bits seem to let the chips slide out easier than oxide or other rougher finishes. TiN would probably work also. A faster (i.e. longer) spiral might help also, but it also might get jammed faster also, depending on chip size.

As mentioned above, feed rate is very important, as the chips are the main way to remove the heat. For mortices, I mount a shop vac hose next to he hole, which helps with chip clearing, both while drilling and backing out.

Wood selection is also important. Gummy woods like resinous pine will be miserable, and sugary woods like cherry might want to burn. Beech tends to be clean and free cutting, but may or may not work for your application.

[Bill Dufour]

I would say use a coolant through drill and run compressed air through the bit and out the sharp end. Of course then you have to have a coolant adapter which is normally used on a lathe not a drill press.
Bil lD.

[Steve Fish]

Thinking outside the box. Could these parts be made in two halves and then glued together? If so that would let you run a half round flute bit on long stock, glue up, and cut to length.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thinking outside the box. Could these parts be made in two halves and then glued together? If so that would let you run a half round flute bit on long stock, glue up, and cut to length.

This is a very clever idea Steve! Depending on what he's building, this could be just the ticket and quick to do. It's certainly somethiing I might be able to use one day.

Fred

[Frederick Skelly]

Johnny, I was googling and came across a supposedly water soluble product called "Boelube" described in this article. LINK (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/a-non-oily-lubricant-for-drilling-and-more/) I also found something called "Opticut XL" LINK (https://store.tooltechusa.com/inet/storefront/store.php?mode=showproductdetail&product=650).

Maybe one of them is an option.

Good luck.
Fred

[Rich Aldrich]

At the mill, we use biolube to lubricate circular saw blades and guides for the bandsaw blades. The lumber is rough and wet ( not kiln dried ) at this point. I don’t know how it would work as a drill lubricant or if it would affect finish. I know it does not stain white hardwood such as maple.

[tom lucas]

I haven't tried it, but what about talc?

[Jacob Reverb]

I think lots of ins and outs to clear chips is going to be your best bet.

[michael langman]

When I worked in the toolroom I always "split the point", on most of my drills and I even did my center drills. I could drill a hole through tool steel faster then most other toolmakers that did not do this.And my drills stayed sharper longer, and drilled straighter holes.
You would need a 100 grit grinding wheel with a medium to hard wheel and an optivisor helps with smaller drills.
If you do not know what splitting the point means then look for drills with a 135 degree point. They usually will have them already ground from the factory.
Splitting the point reduces pressure at the very point of the drill, and this helps to drill faster feeds and less friction.
Also using a drill with 5% cobalt would stay sharper longer and you could increase your speed and feed.

[Steve Jenkins]

Not sure how it would work on a deep drilled hole but I used a “cool gun” I bought from MSC to keep router bits cool when making 100 ds of feet of rope molding. It runs off the air compressor and drops the temp about 70 degrees.

[Rob Luter]

I might take a look at the type of drill, and tip geometry in particular. You’re drilling end grain, and that’s a whole different animal. I like the Forster bit idea, or perhaps modify a brad point by grinding the shank down 1/16” except for 1/2” or so at the tip. At least then the only friction that will develop is at the business end.

[Clint Baxter]

Seeing as how you’re drilling a 3/4” hole, I’d try drilling it in multiple steps. Using the 3/4” drill, I’d drill about 1/2” to 3/4” deep only. I’d the switch to a smaller bit like a 7/16 or 1/2” bit and drill to full depth. Finally, I’d switch back to the 3/4” brad point and finish the hole. By primarily paring the hole with the large brad point drill it is less likely to overheat the bit.

As always, YMMV

Clint

[Chris Fournier]

I'd use the same stick lube that I use on my bandsaw blade if I needed to in this drilling scenario.

[johnny means]

I'd use the same stick lube that I use on my bandsaw blade if I needed to in this drilling scenario.

What is this lube?

[Edwin Santos]

Shot in the dark here, but I wonder if you would have better success with the Wood Owl auger-like bit like these from Japan that Lee Valley sells:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/75748-wood-owl-bits

The description says they have a PTFE coating to reduce friction. They seem reasonably priced to me. I believe you can get them on Amazon also where you can also read reviews from others. I notice the bit you are using now is not a very polished flute which is another reason I think these ones might make a difference. Hope this helps,

Edwin

BTW, the 3/4" diameter is available in 7.5" or 18" length!
420638

[Michael A. Tyree]

This concept also depends on the end use and finishing of the work piece? If it didn't matter you could use a hard paste wax. I'm currently building a large rocking chair from osage orange wood which creates lots of heat even with a sharp brad point bit as my rung holes are 5/8" and rockers and arms use 3/4". Takes a serious push too but no lube involved except "elbow grease"!

[johnny means]

Shot in the dark here, but I wonder if you would have better success with the Wood Owl auger-like bit like these from Japan that Lee Valley sells:

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/75748-wood-owl-bits

The description says they have a PTFE coating to reduce friction. They seem reasonably priced to me. I believe you can get them on Amazon also where you can also read reviews from others. I notice the bit you are using now is not a very polished flute which is another reason I think these ones might make a difference. Hope this helps,

Edwin

BTW, the 3/4" diameter is available in 7.5" or 18" length!
420638
Definitely, going to try one of these.

[Edwin Santos]

Please report back if/when you try those bits, especially if you experiment with different speeds. I am thinking slower would be better. I've been interested in them for a while, particularly for angled holes.

[John K Jordan]

Definitely, going to try one of these.

II haven't tried the Wood Owl bits but if they are anything like the Irwin Speedbore bits (https://www.irwin.com/tools/drill-bits/speedbor-max-speed-bits-4-short-length-bits) be advised that those are quite aggressive, especially in side grain. I'm gussing not so much in end grain. I use the Irwin bits exclusively when boring holes in construction lumber to run wiring.

JKJ

[Tom Bender]

Bits with a lead screw will need to run at really slow speed, they are great with a hand brace. But they will not work on end grain, the threads will be unable to pull the cutting edges thru and they will strip. However they should work about as well as your current spur bits.

For that much drilling in end grain you will need to sharpen occasionally. Might as well learn to do it before you start. Factory edges are not usually optimum so you can start out better than new.

Some type of lube should help but it will have to be applied often. Keep it in a pot by the press and apply with a brush. Protect your work with tape or plan to saw off 1/4" after drilling. Caution, the lube may seep thru the wood and ruin the finish for the top 6" of the part.

Holes drilled in steps from small to larger may drift and you don't have much room for that. Forstner bits may drift less as they guide from the sides not the point. Test a few first.

[Tom Bender]

You're asking that bit to run very true. Can you get a better grip on it, bigger chuck and saw off that reduced shank?

Also you will want that fixture to move not at all from one to the next so fasten half of it in place and dowell the other half to it. Then fasten the clamp in place to speed your setup.

[johnny means]

You're asking that bit to run very true. Can you get a better grip on it, bigger chuck and saw off that reduced shank?

Also you will want that fixture to move not at all from one to the next so fasten half of it in place and dowell the other half to it. Then fasten the clamp in place to speed your setup. True, I did run into problems with the bit running out. So I ditched, the chuck and went with a 3/8 collet. Looks like none of those auger bits are going to be an option, but the brad point muscled it's way through a hundred or so holes without too much problem.