Entry hall table for a niece - Part 2

[Derek Cohen]

We are building a version of this hall table ...


https://i.postimg.cc/RCY9BhMw/Jes_-Entry-Table.jpg


We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards ..


https://i.postimg.cc/CM4HtZ8T/Resaw18.jpg


A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should.


I began this session by turning the legs ...


https://i.postimg.cc/JtwFJQpR/2legs.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/ydbt6K9g/1legs.jpg


The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed.


The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc.


https://i.postimg.cc/c1V1XyjL/3Panel.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/fySFJPjH/4Panel.jpg


Once done, you can square up on a jointer ..


https://i.postimg.cc/RC3V7VgY/5Panel.jpg


... rip to width ...


https://i.postimg.cc/ydd2zxJC/6Panel.jpg


... and cross cut ...


https://i.postimg.cc/dVFscRJM/7Panel.jpg


Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/7Y0HRt8M/8Panel.jpg


Packed away for the night ...


https://i.postimg.cc/Gp7dDZGr/9Panel.jpg


When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ...


https://i.postimg.cc/t4zXq1gs/10dovetail.jpg

[Derek Cohen]

https://i.postimg.cc/QtFsJ0J7/11dovetail.jpg


My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) ..


https://i.postimg.cc/0QhvWDVB/11adovetail.jpg


Completed side panels ...


https://i.postimg.cc/9XqC4gM5/14dovetail.jpg


It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html).


These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ...


https://i.postimg.cc/pXbxKQh9/15dovetail.jpg


Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ...


https://i.postimg.cc/tC3bk1WB/16dovetail.jpg


Saw the pins ...


https://i.postimg.cc/K8Q2Xd9L/17dovetail.jpg


Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides.


Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ...


https://i.postimg.cc/43dTXBM0/18dovetail.jpg


Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ...


https://i.postimg.cc/XYnbzVg4/19dovetail.jpg


Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/wBGYMDYj/20dovetail.jpg


The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding.


Now you can fretsaw away the waste.


https://i.postimg.cc/nr88YZz8/21dovetail.jpg


Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ...


https://i.postimg.cc/br17mMDZ/22dovetail.jpg


Here is a video of the process:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs


To create the mitred ends, first mark ...


https://i.postimg.cc/DZ4kXm7d/23dovetail.jpg


... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy.


https://i.postimg.cc/bYbfYGCq/24dovetail.jpg


And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ...


https://i.postimg.cc/28DR1zMh/25dovetail.jpg


So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm :)


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Jim Becker]

The figure on the panels is outstanding!

[Bob Riefer]

Really fun to read and walk through the pics (and to realize how farrrrrrrrrrrrr I have to go). Thank you! :-)

[Brian Holcombe]

Derek are you planning to chisel the baseline? I’ve been standing the board upright At the router table and using a bearing bit to clean between the pins, carefully using my fence as a pivot.

Works nicely, and I don’t regret saving my chisels for other work.

[Andrew Hughes]

I like the look of the piece. I don't like the evenly spaced dovetails. Looks to mechanical or machine made. I would like too see the number cut down to half random space. Or none at all.
Good luck

[Brian Holcombe]

It can't be machine made, the pins are too slim for that.

[Derek Cohen]

I like the look of the piece. I don't like the evenly spaced dovetails. Looks to mechanical or machine made. I would like too see the number cut down to half random space. Or none at all.
Good luck

Andrew, the evenly spaced dovetails on the case are deliberate. This style requires symmetry. As Brian mentioned, there is no way a machine could make these, and I do not know of any machine that could mimic where I am going with mitred ends.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Derek are you planning to chisel the baseline? I’ve been standing the board upright At the router table and using a bearing bit to clean between the pins, carefully using my fence as a pivot.

Works nicely, and I don’t regret saving my chisels for other work.

Brian, I did think of the router for the baselines. I do this with half-blind dovetails. With through dovetails, there is so little left to chop away after fretsawing ... well, there is about 1mm or so. As Jarrah goes, this Jarrah is well seasoned and awfully hard stuff. I was having my thoughts of a router when clearing the waste! :)

You will have to make us a video of your method. I’d be keen to see this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

A postscript to this, Brian. It has become too rare that discussions about techniques take place on forums. One of the reasons for my posting is to show mine. So thanks again for commenting in this regard. Comments/offerings from others are invited!!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Edwin Santos]

Andrew, the evenly spaced dovetails on the case are deliberate. This style requires symmetry.
Derek

I don't think I understand. What do you mean, that this style requires symmetry?

Very nice project BTW, look forward to seeing the continued progress and end result.

Thanks

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Edwin

The simple and symmetrical lines of Shaker and Mid Century furniture designs are quite restful, because they are not imposing. Symmetry aids in creating a sense of balance and a "quietness".

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Hazelwood]

Looks great, Derek. Those boards are gorgeous. You do exceptional dovetails.

I've done the mitered ends on dovetails a few times and I always found that getting that miter in exactly the right place was tricky. It seemed like I needed to leave a tiny bit extra on the miter, compared to what you would get if you struck a knife line for the miter off of the DT baseline. Otherwise there'd be a little gap at the miters. Couldn't quite figure out why. Seemed like it required a lot of trial and error and test fitting that I'd rather avoid.

Are you just knifing a miter line off of the baseline and taking it down to that?

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Robert

I agree that these are very tough dovetails to pull off. The mitres add a third dimension to work with.

My thought is that, if you have a gap at the mitres after bringing the dovetails together, then most likely the dovetails are not coming together cleanly. Perhaps a bit of waste inside, just enough to prevent the corners closing.

I've built a few cases this way now. The first was only a year ago. Here is an article I wrote on the full process: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AnotherCoffeeTable2.html


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AnotherCoffeeTable2_html_m101db1b6.jpg


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AnotherCoffeeTable2_html_m5cd482de.jpg


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/AnotherCoffeeTable2_html_m6a3fc215.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/HTFinalPictures_html_m6d1c0de1.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tony Shea]

Derek are you planning to chisel the baseline? I’ve been standing the board upright At the router table and using a bearing bit to clean between the pins, carefully using my fence as a pivot.

Works nicely, and I don’t regret saving my chisels for other work.


I would love to see this technique in video. I often use a router to get the bulk of the waste out, especially on half-blind dovetails but still usually stay just shy of the baseline. This is done holding the router and clamping the board in a vise flush with the bench top so that the router has something stable to sit on.

[William Fretwell]

Lovely clear photos Derek, makes the details apparent. Ignoring the lathe, the very few cuts with the big machines are totally achievable with hand tools for those without the space or budget. Using a chisel for the dovetail waste lets you undercut the middle very slightly for a tight fit. I do think the fat tails and 'sharp' pins are a fashion statement more than relaxing shaker!

[Mark Rainey]

Thanks for the photos and explanation of technique Derek. You have a beautiful wood jointer and you show a nice square edge. With that jointer you could easily get a straight edge. Why would you need to take the board to the Hammer jointer at this point?

[Derek Cohen]

Mark, I don’t “need” to machine joint after using a hand plane. In reality, I do a single, light cut. This is to ensure the side is as coplanar as it is square - the next step is to rip the panel to width, and a coplanar edge ensures this will proceed as smoothly as possible (pun intended).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Rainey]

Mark, I don’t “need” to machine joint after using a hand plane. In reality, I do a single, light cut. This is to ensure the side is as coplanar as it is square - the next step is to rip the panel to width, and a coplanar edge ensures this will proceed as smoothly as possible (pun intended).

Regards from Perth

Derek Thanks for your reply Derek. Specifically, as far as coplanar, you mean that even though an edge can be straight and square, there can be twist. Winding sticks would detect this, but it agree it is easier to use the machine. Correct?

[Derek Cohen]

Mark, that is correct.

Regards from Perth

Derek