Ken Fitzgerald
11-25-2019, 3:01 PM
I burned out on woodworking about a year ago while I was in the middle of building an end table with a curved top and a curved drawer front. A couple weeks ago, I got a renewed interest and started easing my way back into my shop.
I am one of those who de-tensions his bandsaw after each use. I am not here to debate that issue, I just don't like leaving rubber parts under compression for months if I am not using the tool. Last week when I was making a router table jig to route a slot in a concave drawer front, I very casually checked the tension on the bandsaw blade and it appeared to be tensioned. I used it to cut a piece of pine 2x4 for the jig and I was stunned at the way the blade wandered back and forth. I finished the cut, used my disc sander to smooth the cut surface and then as planned, wrapped that cut area with some 1/4" plywood. The mission was accomplished and the jig worked well.
Today when I got ready to cut the curved front on the 1" red oak drawer bottom, I remembered the wandering of the blade and decided to check the tension on the blade. Last week I was actually using a blade that had been de-tensioned by 2 full turns on the tensioning wheel. I re-tensioned the blade by increasing the tension by 2 full turns and the blade accurately cut as I remembered it doing in the past.
When I bought my MM-16 I also bought Mark Duginske's 2nd volume book on the bandsaw. I am not here to debate the method of tensioning I use but I use his recommended flutter method.
The message I am trying to communicate is, in setting up your tools, find a method that works for you, use it regularly and don't be afraid to recheck your tools once in a while. Don't take it for granted that your machines calibration hasn't changed or that you might have forgotten how you left it in the past.:o:D
I am one of those who de-tensions his bandsaw after each use. I am not here to debate that issue, I just don't like leaving rubber parts under compression for months if I am not using the tool. Last week when I was making a router table jig to route a slot in a concave drawer front, I very casually checked the tension on the bandsaw blade and it appeared to be tensioned. I used it to cut a piece of pine 2x4 for the jig and I was stunned at the way the blade wandered back and forth. I finished the cut, used my disc sander to smooth the cut surface and then as planned, wrapped that cut area with some 1/4" plywood. The mission was accomplished and the jig worked well.
Today when I got ready to cut the curved front on the 1" red oak drawer bottom, I remembered the wandering of the blade and decided to check the tension on the blade. Last week I was actually using a blade that had been de-tensioned by 2 full turns on the tensioning wheel. I re-tensioned the blade by increasing the tension by 2 full turns and the blade accurately cut as I remembered it doing in the past.
When I bought my MM-16 I also bought Mark Duginske's 2nd volume book on the bandsaw. I am not here to debate the method of tensioning I use but I use his recommended flutter method.
The message I am trying to communicate is, in setting up your tools, find a method that works for you, use it regularly and don't be afraid to recheck your tools once in a while. Don't take it for granted that your machines calibration hasn't changed or that you might have forgotten how you left it in the past.:o:D