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View Full Version : Parallelogram vs DT Jointer - Beter finish?



Allan Speers
11-24-2019, 5:24 PM
I know this topic has been discussed to death, but I'm only concerned about one issue and that issue is rarely mentioned.

I'm considering an old Dayton 8" jointer which is the dovetail type. OK, it's an old Taiwan unit, but the asking price is great, it has an American made motor, and it has roller extensions that bring it to 90", which for what I need to do is a very nice feature.

I'd be adding a Shelix head, mostly for lower noise. (I have "the neighbors from Hell" on my garage-shop side. )

I've read enough to not care about adjustments. Do it once, curse for a while, and then forget it.
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But I am slightly concerned about finish quality: I've read that the parallelogram style leaves a smaller gap, and hence creates a better effective "chipbreaker" I will be working with a lot of highly-figured wood, so I'm wondering if I should consider this important?

Of course, one rarely goes for a final finish with a jointer, but still, I'm concerned.


Your thoughts?

thx.

Mike Kees
11-24-2019, 5:43 PM
Allan I think if you install a shelix head the 'chipbreaker' argument is ended.I have had both types of jointers and never really noticed a difference in cut quality either way. Also as you say a jointer surface probably will not be finish surface anyway. If the tables line up on that machine I would not worry about this "finish quality" thing at all.

Allan Speers
11-24-2019, 6:54 PM
Thanks, Mike.

Kind of how I was thinking already, but you've helped me feel a bit better about this.

It was made in an ISO 9001 Taiwanese factory, with a Delta-clone fence. So....

After 30 years, I figure any defects in the cast iron would have shown by now.
If the tables / fence check out OK, (fingers crossed) I see no reason why this couldn't be a great machine.

Robert Hazelwood
11-25-2019, 9:40 AM
I don't think the infeed table can realistically get close enough to have the kind of effect a tight mouth on a handplane does. The gibs could possibly have a a chipbreaker effect if shaped correctly. Having a smaller gap between the infeed and cutterhead seems more like a safety issue than a finish one. Though at the cutting depths you'll normally use I doubt there is much difference at all.

John TenEyck
11-25-2019, 10:40 AM
Allan, that's a non-issue to me, technically and practically.

John

glenn bradley
11-25-2019, 10:55 AM
I'll just add another vote that once set up, bed adjustment type is not going to effect cut quality. Yes, p-beds stay closer to the head as the depth of cut is adjusted but, the gap is still in fractions of an inch, not thousandths.

Erik Loza
11-25-2019, 11:04 AM
Allan, that's a non-issue to me, technically and practically.

John

+1 ^^^^

Erik

Richard Coers
11-25-2019, 11:58 AM
I'll just add another vote that once set up, bed adjustment type is not going to effect cut quality. Yes, p-beds stay closer to the head as the depth of cut is adjusted but, the gap is still in fractions of an inch, not thousandths.
Completely agree. If you benefit from the bed as being a chip breaker, you are feeding the stock the wrong direction!

Jim Becker
11-25-2019, 1:03 PM
I have not changed the cutting depth for the jointer on my J/P since I bought the machine in about 2004 or so. Therefore, "for me", how any jointer is constructed would be immaterial as long as it's setup properly and the beds are coplaner. Folks who make frequent changes to cutting depth for special operations may have a preference for which method is used, however.

David Kumm
11-25-2019, 1:17 PM
In a jointer application, the design of the Byrd vs a Hermance head for instance is more relevant than parallelogram vs wedge. The smaller diameter and perched inserts of the Byrd leave more room between the opening than a larger diameter, lower cutter head like the Felder or Hermance. Not sure that even that is a big deal but I like the Byrd in a planer better than in a jointer for that reason. Dave

Mel Fulks
11-25-2019, 1:54 PM
I ve always adjusted a jointer frequently ,that's why I especially like the old machines that will take off an inch in one
pass. With the old large vertical adjustment wheels one full turn is one 1/8 Th. Will not use a straight line saw without
someone catching.