Stablizing a Walnut Knot

[julian abram]

The wife has me building a step back hutch for the dining room. I'm using walnut for the 20"x48" top. This knot is pretty much centered in the rough layout. I could replace this board but she says the knot adds "character." So any suggestions on how to stabilize/fill this knot?
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[mark mcfarlane]

Julian, That's a fairly large void but I've used epoxy in smaller knots. Add some dye to the epoxy when you mix it to get whatever color you want. For a void that large it may take a couple of layers of epoxy.

I gotten by just using 2 part epoxy in a double-syringe applicator from the local hardwood store. Others swear by West Systems epoxies, but they come in larger quantities making them fairly expensive for a single project.

My process is to carefully tape around the area to minimize the chance of any spills. I drip in the epoxy off the end of a nail. Then if the epoxy stands proud (you want it a little above the surface of the wood) I may trim the epoxy flush with a single edged razor after it partially sets but before it is fully hardened. The timing of using the razor is semi-important, if you go to early or the blade isn't new you can potentially pull out some of the epoxy. Trimming with a razor reduces the amount of sanding.

If you search this site for epoxy you will find a bunch of recommendations and workflows.

[Bradley Gray]

What Mark said with a couple additions.

1.I would make some wedges out of walnut to drive into the knot to fill the bulk of it

2. Put a couple coats of finish on before epoxy.

[Doug Garson]

When filling a void like that it is a good idea to seal the void with epoxy and let it partially set up before you do the main pour. This prevents air in the wood from escaping and causing bubbles in the main pour. You can also use a propane torch or heat gun to eliminate bubbles after the main pour. Dozens of videos on Youtube.

[Jim Becker]

I use resin dyed to a dark color that approximates the color of the knot.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’ll run contrary here, I dislike the epoxy fill personally, rather I would cut a round mortise and plug with a patch.

https://brianholcombewoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/img_4894.jpg

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks for sharing that Brian. That’s a neat alternative.

[Lee Schierer]

You can make your own wood filler from sawdust and white wood glue. It will match more closely than epoxy.

[Charles Grauer]

Fill it with colored epoxy.

[Doug Garson]

I think the epoxy method is preferred if you want the repair to blend in. If you are going to the trouble of patching it with a plug, I would make it a feature rather than trying to make it blend in.

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[Ron Selzer]

All I got to say is if I filled in a knot like that in something I made for the wife, I would be sleeping in the shop trying to keep her from selling all my tools.
THERE will be at least one, preferably more knots visible in every piece I build for her.
Everyone who looks at HER furniture looks for and admires the knots. They all claim it is real wood then not fake junk.
I don't care as long as she is happy then I get to buy more tools.

[Brian Holcombe]

I think the epoxy method is preferred if you want the repair to blend in. If you are going to the trouble of patching it with a plug, I would make it a feature rather than trying to make it blend in.

420156420157

Awesome. Those are fun.

[Jim Becker]

I actually have used the plug method for one recent project...my kitchen table. The knot was completely missing. So I made a new one out of purple heart on the CNC. :) :D It was glued in with black epoxy, so it has a faint black line all the way around it. I decided it would be a feature rather than try to hide it. All the rest of the defects got dark brown resin.

https://t0inbq.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mKYmNMEOsy3fouylxIK-3XMCvNtt1Vur8PjoEFpYvmP6RiXEss4qU840nXKjXwcm93KewT YgVbVy4Jj-nmNFjgGq15pH4plv4I1ZexzCUfQoWS1wt8OBmMfP_TJqH8M_Tz EaT-8DF14p7f_KheA3rpK7Y-g7UGlNIVX-sHNZsZD6hTyvFEEUffHpEIUsFnglH2pda6XSJm8ySRlbOAPsHP Q?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none

https://tkinbq.sn.files.1drv.com/y4m5BupWIGv4lyAtNVKzYiegW7QTjb-InPqsrzqBL7G0fZZGBM2YFofUpwC2RQdc7VLNG29PPwbc1BjfE 80fSozz4QpN2ZFxEoCZpUobmGzlJZzz6aTGFILYHnJzRKvZw00 jgQVjg53B9vxnZmO64HVsVON81Heda_Kp77WegaA0PWHUK4qs3 GamTTdxUCtZaIrxXLJuQzEZMXZl9X1h_8qsw?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none

https://f9qnwq.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mxgtbqll6hXEZpYGnM_d9dwNsk3TSafypfjuTE0unNMJbUvW pkb1XkGFbc_eFQ18SpppUYO6UocDyk7M4eXSahFuczxT8kBxEp DOZEDRpbV70xQFge_MtcO9bKuDgjvs2bpRWBY8kVzCMvFnCjwA jIufUCtDjv0kI46HMQr0HlZ6kO2d8Fy-1YXg9kWkcoIB93uECx4X_s6FaT9U-qn4KIQ?width=660&height=660&cropmode=none

[julian abram]

Wow, fellows a lot of good techniques and ideals suggested here. I've worked with walnut on previous projects but always was able to "avoid" including open knots in the finished piece. I'll have to sift through these suggestions, thanks for the all the good input.

[Doug Garson]

One last suggestion, if you try the epoxy fill and don't like it, you can go to the plug alternative. On the other hand if you try the plug first and don't like it you can't consider the epoxy fill approach.

[Rich Aldrich]

Since I am into turning also, I get into both epoxy or let it be, depending on the piece. As far as epoxy goes, instant coffee mixed with the epoxy works well for a dye. Also mix sanding dust from the wood you are using with epoxy works well.

I like the inlays. That’s something I haven’t tried yet.

[jared herbert]

I have filled a lot of voids and knots in walnut and other woods with crushed turquoise mixed with epoxy. I use real turquoise not the imitation stuff. I really like the looks of it, it is very noticeable but not glaringly so. If I have two very similar turnings , one with a turquoise filled void and one without, the one with the turquoise will almost always sell first.

[johnny means]

One last suggestion, if you try the epoxy fill and don't like it, you can go to the plug alternative. On the other hand if you try the plug first and don't like it you can't consider the epoxy fill approach.

Great wisdom here.

[Michael A. Tyree]

Artistically or in the vein of keeping the plug/grain appearance "natural", I dislike the circular plug considerably! I'd do a plug from solid wood but shape it custom to fit the grain pattern of the work piece -> which I cannot see here. Glue and sawdust saved from a sander bag, etc., is more attractive than epoxy.
All in IMO, of course...

[Roger Feeley]

+1 on the colored epoxy.
But seal the knot first. I did a bunch of black epoxy without sealing first and some of the wormholes came out kind of fuzzy looking. I think the dye seeped into the wood a bit. I never had that problem with knots.

[Nelson Howe]

If you do epoxy, don't do 5 minute epoxy. More importantly, tape over the show side, flip it upside down and fill it from the back. This way the inevitable bubbles rise to the back side, and show side will be clear. I like clear epoxy. When you tape the front, leave space for extra that you can scrape flush when it cures. You may have to drill through the void front to back to be able to gethe epoxy in.

Nelson

[mreza Salav]

I use the saw dust of the same wood mixed with epoxy. I use west system and first wet the wood/hole with pure epoxy then mix enough saw dust to make it like a paste and fill it, let dry and then sand.

[johnny means]

We always use black epoxy. It actually seems to look more natural than trying to color match. Sawdust mixtures seem to stand out like cheap putty. Black looks like void, which the brain expects to see.

[Jim Becker]

I'm generally with Johnny on this, although my tint is actually dark brown rather than "black".

[jared herbert]

I agree with the cheap putty look. I have mixed in coffee grounds to good effect also

[Timothy Orr]

Here's a similar knot I filled on a walnut coffee table. Used System Three T88 with a couple of drops of dark brown Transtint dye. Overfilled it slightly then planed/scraped it flush. I think it came out nice and looks natural. If the knot goes through the board, make sure to put some tape over the backside before you pour the epoxy. Even though epoxy seems pretty thick, it will flow, especially the longer setting type like T88.

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Hope this helps.

Tim

[Doug Garson]

Here's a similar knot I filled on a walnut coffee table. Used System Three T88 with a couple of drops of dark brown Transtint dye. Overfilled it slightly then planed/scraped it flush. I think it came out nice and looks natural. If the knot goes through the board, make sure to put some tape over the backside before you pour the epoxy. Even though epoxy seems pretty thick, it will flow, especially the longer setting type like T88.

420438

Hope this helps.

Tim
Can't do any better than that.

[johnny means]

Few more black epoxy fills.

[Tom Bender]

The table I'm sitting at has a heart (made from Purpleheart)

[Steven Harrison]

I recently experimented with West System Epoxy that I tinted with Dark Walnut TransTint. I had a piece of walnut that had a knotty spot separating from the rest of the board. I didn't want to scrap it and thought it would make a good charcuterie board. I didn't get all of the air bubbles out, but for my first time ever using it I think it worked well to save the board and I like the appearance. I threw in a butterfly because I'd never done one and wanted to try it.

420871420872420874420873

[Doug Garson]

I recently experimented with West System Epoxy that I tinted with Dark Walnut TransTint. I had a piece of walnut that had a knotty spot separating from the rest of the board. I didn't want to scrap it and thought it would make a good charcuterie board. I didn't get all of the air bubbles out, but for my first time ever using it I think it worked well to save the board and I like the appearance. I threw in a butterfly because I'd never done one and wanted to try it.

420871420872420874420873
Well done, looks like the best of both worlds, epoxy to fill the void as a near invisible repair and an inlay to turn the repair into a feature.

[Doug Garson]

The table I'm sitting at has a heart (made from Purpleheart)
Love to see a picture.

[Steven Harrison]

Well done, looks like the best of both worlds, epoxy to fill the void as a near invisible repair and an inlay to turn the repair into a feature.

Thanks Doug!