Rough estimate for new shop

[Tom Ruflin]

I'm wanting to build a new shop. It would be a 2x6 framed building with a foundation and slab. Outside dimensions would be 24' wide by 28' deep with 9' walls. The foundation has to go 4' below grade due to frost. I would have the outside done in vinal to match the house. I'm just looking for the cost of the building, I have freinds in the electrical business to take care of the power and I would finish the inside myself. Any ideas of the cost are appreciated as I'm sick of working in my basement with 6'10" headroom not to mention the gas furnace and water heater.

[Frank Pellow]

I don't know how relevent the cost of the shop that I built last year is to you, but I will give you the information.

My shop is about 20% smaller than yours.

I built mine on piers (sunk to below the frost line), rather than a slab. The frame is 2/6s and the exterior is rough sawm pine board and batten. The ceiling rises from 6.5 feet on one side and from 8 feet on the other up to 10 feet at the peak. The floor, walls and ceiling are all well insulated.

I did almost all the work myself.

The final cost was about $20,500 (converted to USA dollars at last year's rate). That cost included all electrical, a propane space heater, a wood stove, and a cyclone dust control system. Without those, the cost would have been about $14,000 (US). Of course, all permit fees, inspection fees, and taxes are included in the cost.

If you would l9ike more info re my shop, see the thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=7769

I was very happy to get out of my basement shop, and I expect that you will be just as happy. Good luck, and please call upon me if you think that I can be of further assistance.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom.....I'm in the process of finishing the interior of my new shop. My wife had a contractor build the empty shell. It's 24' x 30', 2x6 construction, poured footing 2 1/2' deep, poured wall and floor. It has cementious lap siding, 3 3'x4' insulated vinyl windows 1 36" walk-in door, 1 10' overhead insulated garage door, 10' walls and 30 year designer fiberglass shinges. The sheathing is plywood and it was wrapped with a weather wrap.I had to paint the exterior. It cost me $16,000 for the empty shell. I did the electrical, the insulation and am in the process of finishing the interior. I'm into it about $23-25000 so far.

Your cost may vary locally.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom ...some information I left out of my previous post.

The $23-25000 figure includes 200 amp 220 service panel, meter box, an extraordinary number of 110 outlets and 220 outlets. I wired with both 10 gauge and 12 gauge copper wire. There's a 110 outlet every 4' around the perimeter and 8 220 outlets judicially spaced. All of my outlets are 49" above the floor and I wished I'd placed them about 52" so that I could frame a storage rack for lumber and still be able to get to the outlets. There is a switche 110 outlet for a future garage door opener and 4 110 outlets in the ceiling.

It also includes running a natural gas line to the building and installing a 75,000 btu Lennox overhead gas furnace.

I insulated the walls to R-19 and had R-38 fiberglass blown into the ceiling.

It also includes about $600 in lighting fixtures and bulbs.

The walls are covered with 1/2" plywood and the ceiling is covered with 5/8" sheetrock. I wished now I'd taken Frank's advice and put plywood on the ceiling also as I hate finishing sheetrock. There was a substantial price difference in my own defense, however. The hate of the finishing of the sheetrock has slowed my progress dramatically.

[Barry O'Mahony]

one thing you may want to think about is whether you need to sheetrock the ceiling. There is insulation available, intended for commercial applications, that has a white vinyl vapor barrier backing, with the required Low Flame Spread rating that it can be left exposed (look up at the ceiling the next time you're in a Home Depot). You could just have this stuff installed and forego the sheetrock.

[Gregg Mason]

Tom,

I built this 28x28 about 5 years ago. I did almost everything myself, just subbed out the concrete(footers,block,flatwork).

It cost me about $13,000.

Gregg

27760

[Steven Wilson]

$50-$55 sq ft. I'm budgeting around 45-50K

[Frank Pellow]

$50-$55 sq ft. I'm budgeting around 45-50K
That's higher than I experienced. If you take the costs that I reported earleir in this thread, my cost was $29 (US) a square foot for the basic, insulated building and $42 (US) if you throw in electricity, heat, and dust control. (That's interior useable sqaure feet by the way.)

Steven, you did not say, but did your numbers assume that someone else was doing the work? If so, that would probably account for the difference.

[Andy Hoyt]

I'd be hesitant to think of a shop structure in terms of square foot costs.

While the square footage in the interior is minimal, the cost for the perimeter is very high. And with different sized buildings it can become problematic to compare things apples to apples.

Perhaps you guys could repost your experience in a cost per lineal foot of perimeter?

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

I think Andy makes a good point. Another thing to consider is that interior 'finishing' cam come later, and perhaps over a period of time...once the equipment to work with is in place.

KC

[Frank Pellow]

I'd be hesitant to think of a shop structure in terms of square foot costs.

While the square footage in the interior is minimal, the cost for the perimeter is very high. And with different sized buildings it can become problematic to compare things apples to apples.

Perhaps you guys could repost your experience in a cost per lineal foot of perimeter?
OK, will do. The perimeter of my shop building is 103 lineal feet. So the "unloaded cost" was $136 (US) per lineal foot and the "loaded cost was $199 (US) per lineal foot.

[Steven Wilson]

That's higher than I experienced. If you take the costs that I reported earleir in this thread, my cost was $29 (US) a square foot for the basic, insulated building and $42 (US) if you throw in electricity, heat, and dust control. (That's interior useable sqaure feet by the way.)

Steven, you did not say, but did your numbers assume that someone else was doing the work? If so, that would probably account for the difference.

Excavation, foundation, slab, run electic from main to sub panel, wire HVAC, gas line / furnace install, siding, roofing, framing, insulation, all materials. Does not include drywall install, taping, paint, or branch circuits. The higher cost reflects supply/demand of materials and work crews.

[Gregg Mason]

The price of $13,000 I gave aboce on the 28x28 did not include any interior finishing work or heating. It did include all concrete(subbed out), carpentry, doors/windows, electric/lighting, and permits.

[Tom Ruflin]

Thanks everyone for the input. I was hoping to come in under $30K but that might not be possible. I have a few issues like power lines overhead for both my house and neighbors house. Plus the grade of my yard where the building would go is up hill so I would have to dig into the hill and have concrete lower walls for about 1/2 of the foundation. Not that any of this cannot be delt with, it just adds to the cost. I keep thinking about doing the wood construction myself but I don't think I am physically up to the task or have the time (I've done construction work many years ago so I have an idea what it is like). Again thanks for the input from everyone, it helps to put the project into perspective before I jump in.