Workshop ceiling

[Reggie Burnett]

What do you guys think about a drop ceiling in a workshop? I picked up some 2x4 led troffer lights and some 2' and 4' armstrong ceiling grid peices for very little. My workshop is in a pole barn and the trusses are not rated for much load. I thought a suspended ceiling gave me lots of options. fairly light weight, can rearrange lights easily, can look up above the ceiling if I need to, easy to go above ceiling to reroute dust collection ,etc.

You guys like this or have better options for a light weight shop ceiling?

THanks!

[Jim Becker]

My ceiling is covered with what is effectively drop ceiling panels and it's made a HUGE difference in the sound levels and comfort of my shop. While I didn't do a grid and stapled mine up (only an 8' ceiling and I didn't want to lose more than the half inch thickness of the panel) if your shop is amenable to a drop ceiling, it might be a good idea. And you can easily put insulation over it for even more comfort. (mine is insulated)

[Lisa Starr]

If you do that, will you still have good ceiling clearance? If the ceiling height is low, you'll be muttering every time your handling long stock.

[Matt Day]

I had a drop ceiling in my last shop and it nice for keeping the place brighter with the white tiles. I had plenty of light with LED panels. But the panels did catch dust and grime, especially from things like an angle grinder (machinery restoration stuff).

More importantly, I like having exposed joists for storage - lots of things can be stored in between. And for running new circuits and hanging dust collection pipe an open ceiling is much better.

Your led panels can surely be hung by wire without the need of a grid.

[Jerome Stanek]

I have one in my shop Nice and easy to change lighting easy to insulate also

[Reggie Burnett]

If you do that, will you still have good ceiling clearance? If the ceiling height is low, you'll be muttering every time your handling long stock.

I didn't initially build the barn to be a shop so the height under the trusses is like 8' 6". So with a minimal drop ceiling I would be like 8' 3" to bottom of tile. Not great but it's about as good as I can do in that building.

[Reggie Burnett]

I had a drop ceiling in my last shop and it nice for keeping the place brighter with the white tiles. I had plenty of light with LED panels. But the panels did catch dust and grime, especially from things like an angle grinder (machinery restoration stuff).

More importantly, I like having exposed joists for storage - lots of things can be stored in between. And for running new circuits and hanging dust collection pipe an open ceiling is much better.

Your led panels can surely be hung by wire without the need of a grid.


Yeah, I've got a few things in my trusses now too. The issue is insulation. if I leave them open I would need to insulate on the slope right under the metal and that would be significantly harder I think.

[John K Jordan]

My ceilings are 9' and sometimes I wish I'd made them 10. I screwed 1/2" plywood to the bottoms of the trusses (and all the wallls) so I could remove panels if needed. I can mount or hang almost anything anywhere with the plywood. It's real sturdy if it gets bumped with anything. Adds stiffness to the whole structure too.

I've installed plenty of drop ceiling and I didn't much enjoy installing or having it. Just my opinion, of course.

JKJ

[Tom M King]

On my Personal Dislikes list, not many things rank lower than sheetrock, but dropped (suspended) ceilings are on that list.

[Reggie Burnett]

On my Personal Dislikes list, not many things rank lower than sheetrock, but dropped (suspended) ceilings are on that list.

I thought about screwing 7/16" sheathing OSB directly to the trusses. The only thing that gives me pause is that my trusses were installed on 5" centers. Not meant for load. Of course 15-20 LED troffer lights are pretty heavy too.

[John K Jordan]

I thought about screwing 7/16" sheathing OSB directly to the trusses. The only thing that gives me pause is that my trusses were installed on 5" centers. Not meant for load. Of course 15-20 LED troffer lights are pretty heavy too.

You must mean 5' centers instead of 5" centers. Could you add bracing? Or long horizontal boards kind of like purlins under the trusses just to hold the sheathing, spaced ever 2'? My trusses are on 2' centers and I still added blocking between every bottom web and extra diagonal bracing down the length of the building.

[Reggie Burnett]

You must mean 5' centers instead of 5" centers. Could you add bracing? Or long horizontal boards kind of like purlins under the trusses just to hold the sheathing, spaced ever 2'? My trusses are on 2' centers and I still added blocking between every bottom web and extra diagonal bracing down the length of the building.

Yes I mean 5' centers. As I said they were not installed intending to carry load. I have thought about adding 2x4 vertically on each side of the peak running from the top down to the bottom of the truss thinking that would strengthen them. I guess I'll be comparing weight of a drop ceiling with my troffer lights vs 7/16" OSB with my flourescent bar lights to see not only which one is cheaper but also lighter.

[Jim Andrew]

I have a suspended ceiling in my shop, my bank was remodeling, and i helped remove the ceiling for it. Had plenty of tile and grid, just had to buy new wall angle, and then gave away the left over parts. Used some used, some new troffer lights, changed them to LED bulbs last year. What I liked most about my ceiling is it was mostly free. Call me cheap, it is a compliment.

[Greg Hines, MD]

My shop has open trusses, and I doubt that I will enclose them. I did have closed cell foam insulation sprayed on the roof, and it coated everything.

Doc

[sean meltvedt]

Reggie-I do have a drop ceiling and love it. It the overall height after install is 9’4”. The ceiling took about 5” to clear obstacles and troffer light installation. As has already been stated, noise reduction was awesome.
Cheers
Sean

[Reggie Burnett]

Reggie-I do have a drop ceiling and love it. It the overall height after install is 9’4”. The ceiling took about 5” to clear obstacles and troffer light installation. As has already been stated, noise reduction was awesome.
Cheers
Sean

Mine is def not free. I paid $125 for 8 led troffer lights but I'll need at least 8 or 9 more. My ceiling height is 8' 7" so it would be about 8' 2" after drop ceiling. I got the 2' and 4' crosses for cheap (like $20 for the box) but paid $155 for a box of 20 main beams and about $60 for the wall angle. A local guy is selling tiles for $35 per box of 10. So def not free.

Putting up stirngers and screwing up hardboard would be cheaper (by a bit) but I keep thinking I might like the look (white) and the convenience of the drop ceiling in case I have need to get up above the ceiling for anything.

[Jim Becker]

Screwing up boards might be less expensive, but as I noted above, the sound-deadening properties of the drop ceiling material is really noticeable. My shop is a completely different space that's easy to spend full days comfortably in now.

[Tom Bender]

If you get fiberglass ceiling tiles, (yellow fiberglass with white plastic facing) at the big blue box store, you can bend them in half and stuff them thru the grid. They will pop back flat. Using these you can put the grid up close to the trusses or joists and get a little more clearance. Around 8' every inch is golden. You will have to put your lights between the trusses or joists.

Adding a ceiling was a big improvement to my shop.

[Charlie Velasquez]

Yes I mean 5' centers. As I said they were not installed intending to carry load. I have thought about adding 2x4 vertically on each side of the peak running from the top down to the bottom of the truss thinking that would strengthen them. I guess I'll be comparing weight of a drop ceiling with my troffer lights vs 7/16" OSB with my flourescent bar lights to see not only which one is cheaper but also lighter.

Be careful. Trusses are engineered to spread/share the load in a specific manner. Some members are designed to be in compression, some in tension. The members are designed for specific compressive and tension forces. Adding a piece may shift some forces to a member not designed to carry that additional load. Be especially careful if your bottom chord is.... never mind with the qualifiers; just be careful.