trouble with CA glue

[dustin wassner]

having issues with the glue joint strength. I have maybe a 75% success rate with the joints. I would expect it to be 100%...

I have found that, despite what most people say, that using a ton of water and a ton of glue has given the strongest joint so far.

Can anyone offer any suggestions to improve the gluing process?

thank you,
DW

[Edward Weingarden]

I don't know what effect water has on CA glue, but you can use a spray chemical activator for immediate setting of the CA.

[John Lanciani]

It may just be me but nothing about the combination of wood, “a ton of (CA) glue and a ton of water” screams of getting consistently satisfactory results. If your materials or processes are not getting the results you need, you need to change one or both to get them.

[Kevin Jenness]

A bit more information would help with troubleshooting. Can you post photos? What species are you using? What is the moisture content? What type of CA are you using? What criteria are you using to determine your failure rate? What kind of stress do the joints see in use?

Generally a moderate spread of glue with minimal squeezeout should work, added water or accelerator will speed setting time. Thin gluelines cure better than thick ones "Dunking" may cause swelling and compromise the joint.

You might try CA on one side of the joint and a spritz o accelerator on the other, or a spritz of accelerator on the squeezeout after assembly. Or another adhesive- would hot melt work for the task?

A link to more info: https://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/10/stuff_eng_tech_ca_glue.htm

[Jeff Body]

On something like that a dab of glue is all you need and you shouldn't have squeeze out.

Another cool trick is to put a tiny little bit of baking soda on 1 part and CA glue on the other. Put them together and instant bond in 5-10 sec.
Baking soda acts as an activator also.

[Lee Schierer]

You need to supply more information. CA glue comes in a variety of viscosities which will affect how it performs on a porous substrate such as wood. Which viscosity is the glue you are using? Are you using a primer or activator? My experience with water near CA glue is that it makes a mess and weakens the bonds.

[Bill Dufour]

Sounds like you are submerging the parts in glue and water. That is way too much glue. It needs a thin glue line to cure properly. You m,ay have to wait. afew days for it too cure at the thickness you seem to be using.
BILL D

[Frank Pratt]

I've not had good results from saturating the joint with water. As a substitute for accelerator, a solution of baking soda & water, lightly spritzed on the joint works.

[Tom Bender]

When I use Gorilla Glue I wipe one side with a damp sponge and spread glue on the other. Good results.

[John Lanciani]

Either it wasn’t that important or the OP didn’t care for the answers. He hasn’t been back since shortly after he posted the question . :confused:

[johnny means]

Why are you choosing CA? In my experience, it's almost useless unless your mating surfaces are almost machinist precise and smooth. It's too brittle for any type of space filling.

[Edward Dyas]

I think CA glues are better suited for non-porous applications especially if a thin layer of adhesive is called for. If you are gluing wood, use wood glue.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I use medium or thick CA that I get from Stew-Mac for a lot of things, but generally not wood to wood. It's great for gluing brass dots into holes in a fretboard, or for any other kind of inlay work on that kind of small scale. I let it sit for 1/2 hour to dry before I machine the dots level, or if I've mixed it with wood dust and used it around larger inlays I let it dry overnight. I have not had much luck with the water-thin CA, it often seems not to bond for me.
Zach