comparing two options of side rabbet panes?

[Günter VögelBerg]

I did a search and did not find much. Can anyone comment on the utility of the Veritas 2-in-1 side rabbet plane vs. the Lie-Nielsen 98/99? I own the 98/99 and have always found them a little fiddly to adjust and keep sharp. I also like the Veritas because I like the idea of only having to maintain a single tool. Has anyone tried both and your thoughts?

[Jim Koepke]

Mine are the Stanley 98/99 pair, pretty much the same as the Lie-Nielsen pair.

To me the advantage is the depth stop doesn't have to be changed each time the direction of use is changed.

jtk

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

I prefer the Stanley #79.

[Jim Koepke]

I prefer the Stanley #79.

One of my regrets in life is selling my #79.

jtk

[Jack Frederick]

I have the LN 98/9 and have been very pleased with them. I have occasional issues with hand sharpening them. If I do my part I am ok. I recently bought the LN honing gauge which I have been very pleased with and am fixin' to to buy the skew blade jigs for it. That should help me work up to the quality of the tool.

[Derek Cohen]

Comparison of all the side rabbet planes ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/TheVeritasSideRabbetPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Henderson]

I prefer the Stanley #79.

+1. I have the LN 98/99 and the Stanley 79. I mostly use the 79. Works better.

Mike

[Günter VögelBerg]

Thank you, Derek. This is exactly the kind of detailed comparison I was looking for.

I had actually never seen the 79. I would be curious to try one. It looks like the Ebay prices are not too outrageous. However, the requirement to retract one blade before moving in the other direction seems like a distinct disadvantage.

I'll be at a Lee Valley next week and will hopefully be able to handle their version. When I look at it more closely it seems that the sharpening is probably no easier for that tool so it would not solve one of the annoyances I have.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

In order for complete disclosure: Due to arthritis I no longer have the #79 and am using a 1/2" #39 instead for simple dado's. Unfortunately the #39 does not help me with a long dovetail.... (and I use the #39 as a shoulder plane....). Compromises, compromises....

[Derek Cohen]

If you go looking for a #79, try an find a second fence for it. I use mine, with a modified fence, for slicing away sidewalls to create or fine tune sliding dovetails. It can do both the male- and femaie joint ...

https://i.postimg.cc/wMnngsRz/SlidingDovetails-LC_html_680e7f25.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/v8KJWCqK/SlidingDovetails-LC_html_3e8cebeb.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

I had actually never seen the 79. I would be curious to try one. It looks like the Ebay prices are not too outrageous. However, the requirement to retract one blade before moving in the other direction seems like a distinct disadvantage.

The necessity of retracting the blade when moving in the other direction is arguable. Mine seemed to work fine with both blades set to cut. The part about the #79 that is more to my liking than the other two in one designs is the depth stop doesn't have to be moved each time the direction of use is changed.

jtk

[Günter VögelBerg]

Thanks for all the info. I just bought a 79 for $50 on Ebay. Will report.

[Mike Henderson]

I had actually never seen the 79. I would be curious to try one. It looks like the Ebay prices are not too outrageous. However, the requirement to retract one blade before moving in the other direction seems like a distinct disadvantage.

I don't retract the "other" blade when I use mine.

Mike

[Mike Allen1010]

If you go looking for a #79, try an find a second fence for it. I use mine, with a modified fence, for slicing away sidewalls to create or fine tune sliding dovetails. It can do both the male- and femaie joint ...

https://i.postimg.cc/wMnngsRz/SlidingDovetails-LC_html_680e7f25.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/v8KJWCqK/SlidingDovetails-LC_html_3e8cebeb.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/SlidingDovetailsWithTheStanley79.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

+1 If you like doing hand tool joinery, particularly for case work, sliding dovetails are both one of the most useful joints and for me also one of the most difficult to tune to good fit (At least it is for me). Derek's tip about adding angled fence to the 79 was for me incredibly useful in learning to execute sliding DT's. Highly recommended!

[Phil Gaudio]

An angled fence can also be added to the 98/99 depth stops as shown in this picture. I epoxied a piece of Corian to the depth stop and it works like a champ.

418539

[Jim Koepke]

Double stick tape would allow an easier removal.

It is likely one could cobble together a depth stop with a piece of angle iron.

jtk

[Günter VögelBerg]

Double stick tape would allow an easier removal.

It is likely one could cobble together a depth stop with a piece of angle iron.

jtk

I like Derek's idea, but I was thinking about making wood fences of different dovetail angles and making them out of a straight, hard wood and tapping holes in the steel fence so I could attach the wood auxillary fence with machine screws. Perhaps I am making it too complicated.

[Phil Gaudio]

Tried that (as well as double-sided tape): I get the most repeatable results with the permanent modification to the depth stops. Additional depth stops for the LN 98/99 can be had from LN for a modest fee. When I want to convert back to standard configuration, its just a turn of the screw.



I like Derek's idea, but I was thinking about making wood fences of different dovetail angles and making them out of a straight, hard wood and tapping holes in the steel fence so I could attach the wood auxillary fence with machine screws. Perhaps I am making it too complicated.