Plumbing for whole house sediment filters

[Stephen Tashiro]

Is there a good way to plumb a whole house sediment filter, so the housing can easily be replaced?

The way whole house sediment filter housings are usually installed to copper pipes, it looks like you would have to cut the pipes in order to replace the housing. The male fittings that go into the housing are soldered on the copper pipe. They can't be unscrewed after the plumbing is complete.

This Old House's Richard Trethwey resorts to using a Sharkbite fitting in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3akJBmn_GpE

[Jason Roehl]

They're called unions. Also, plumb in a 3-valve bypass: one valve on each side of the filter (between the T and the filter), and one valve on the bypass. Use ball valves (long handle, 1/4-turn operation).

[George Bokros]

My whole house filter uses compression fittings to attach in-feed and out flow side to the water pipe. Jason's recommendation of ball valves is right on.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, anything that potentially has to be taken out of the stream is best served by unions on either side, regardless of what kind of pipe is in play. Do pay attention to how well things are supported because when you change the filter cartridge, most of these units require you to unscrew the bottom of the case and they tend to be really snug, requiring a bit of effort/torque to break them free as well as when you re-tighten after the replacement. You don't want to be breaking your pipe off the wall in that process!

[Paul F Franklin]

This:


They're called unions. Also, plumb in a 3-valve bypass: one valve on each side of the filter (between the T and the filter), and one valve on the bypass. Use ball valves (long handle, 1/4-turn operation).

Also, if you have quite a bit of sediment, I recommend a Russco Spin down separator ahead of the main filter. I use a 100 micron screen in the Russco and it separates most of the sand and rust particles from my well so the larger filter element lasts longer. You do have to flush the separator more often, but it takes 2 seconds and a bucket. You can even plumb it to a drain and add an auto-flush valve, but it's so easy to flush I haven't bothered.

Also recommend using the larger size sediment filter like this one: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/collections/heavy-duty-big-blue/products/pentek-10-big-blue-water-filter-housing-with-pressure-relief

Use a gradient element in it and it really performs well and doesn't require frequent changes (depending on how bad your water is and whether you have the pre-separator).

Jim's advice about solid mounting is right on too.

[Erik Loza]

Stephen, is your house copper piping? We have 100% pex with sharkbites. It's just a spin-off type filter with shutoff valve, no bypass. Nothing fancy in our case.

Erik

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

We had a whole house filter installed when the house was built. Paid the plumber a few bucks on the side to install it. Our entire house is CPVC or pex on the supply side. The pex has all crimped fittings. I would not allow a shark bite anywhere on the property. Seen to many claims for water damage due to faulty fittings. Our filter system has the pressure relief and an interior by pass so I just turn the valve on the unit and then release the pressure. screw the lower housing off and then replace the filter and screw it back together. Open the valve and the water flows again. I really didn't need the valves on either side, except for when I might replace the filter unit with another filter system. As it is now, I replace the filter about every 8 months. I also found a place to order filters on-line because they are so darn expensive in the box stores.

[Stephen Tashiro]

Stephen, is your house copper piping?

The plumbing in this particular house is incomplete. A 1" pex main water line is temporarily connected by 1/2" pex pipes to the old copper pipes in the house. I want to put the sediment filter and associated valves in a closet with as much of the pipes exposed as possible. Since the pipes will be exposed, I like the idea of copper pipes in the closet, but perhaps there is no problem leaving PEX lines exposed.

[Stephen Tashiro]

. The pex has all crimped fittings.



so I just turn the valve on the unit and then release the pressure. screw the lower housing off and then replace the filter and screw it back together. Open the valve and the water flows again.

However, I'm not asking about replacing the filter. I'm asking about replacing the whole housing. How are the PEX lines attached to the filter housing? Are they crimped to brass fittings that screw into the housing?

[Erik Loza]

...but perhaps there is no problem leaving PEX lines exposed.

Ours is likewise in the closet. We've had them exposed since the remodel in 2012, no issues so far. I did put the foam sleeves on both lines, more for impact protection than insulation.

Erik

[Erik Loza]

However, I'm not asking about replacing the filter. I'm asking about replacing the whole housing. How are the PEX lines attached to the filter housing? Are they crimped to brass fittings that screw into the housing?

Stephen, here you go...

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Erik

[Mike Cutler]

However, I'm not asking about replacing the filter. I'm asking about replacing the whole housing. How are the PEX lines attached to the filter housing? Are they crimped to brass fittings that screw into the housing?

No. Not that you couldn't do that, but you don't want to.
The PEX if going to attach to some type of a "reusable" fitting. Ground Union, Sharkbite, Compressin fitting, etc. The other side of the reusable fitting is going to thread into the Filter housing. I would not use a Sharkbite because if it is the "reusable fitting, it will wear out over time. A sharkbite really isn't a reusable fitting, even though it can be. f you treat a Sharkbite as a "one and done" alternative to sweating pipe, you'll be better off.
I have an OMNI Filter from the mid 70's in my house. There are copper ground unions on both sides should it ever have to be removed.
A higher quality whole house filter will have the shutoff and bypass built into it. It's still a good idea to install isolation valves on both side in the eventuality that the whole house filter, bypass/shutoff valve stops working after a few decades, or the newer plastic types break.
It's always good to be able to stop the flow of water as close to the fixture, or appliance it is feeding. as possible. It's actually code. I have shutoff valves at every device int the house, and shutoff valves on every branch line coming off my main header, in the basement, which is also isolable.

[Stephen Tashiro]

Stephen, here you go...

418278

Erik

I like those brackets on the threaded rods!

What I worry about is that after installing the connections to the housing and completing the installation, there might be a leak at a connection to the housing. I want to be able to tighten or re-do the connections to the housing without taking everything else apart. Using all-PEX, I can visualize ways to accomplish that.

I do heed those who recommend unions. Are there PEX compatible unions, or must there be a transition to copper to use a union?

[Steve Fish]

418291 Here’s our set up. Not the best way, but it works. We’re on cistern rain water. Very easy to change filters with the localized shut offs and hose bib

[Erik Loza]

I like those brackets on the threaded rods!

What I worry about is that after installing the connections to the housing and completing the installation, there might be a leak at a connection to the housing. I want to be able to tighten or re-do the connections to the housing without taking everything else apart. Using all-PEX, I can visualize ways to accomplish that.

I supplied the filter housing and valves when we did the remodel but the plumbing sub did all the work. From what I can see, it’s just blue pipe dope. Nothing fancy and no leaks so far. Would you really need to take it all apart in the future, though?

Erik

[Jim Becker]

I do heed those who recommend unions. Are there PEX compatible unions, or must there be a transition to copper to use a union?

You can easily use traditional unions with PEX systems where necessary. It does require a brief transition between the PEX and the brass/copper or PVC/ABS, but there are components to do that.

[Scott T Smith]

At the beginning of this month I rebuilt the entire well system that supplies my house. New 1hp submersible pump (old pump was at 200' of a 340' well, replacement is at 300'), new 220 gallon pressure tank, new well feed pipe, and I installed a whole house filtration system in my basement. I can't complain about the previous pump - it lasted for 24 years which isn't bad at all.

The house was built in 1990 with pvc pipe from the well to the basement, and copper inside. I added the filter where the PVC transitioned to the copper.

About 12 years ago I transitioned from copper, pvc and black poly pipe to pex with copper crimp style fittings. I've been very pleased thus far. No leaks and extremely easy to fix. I don't have any problems with sweating copper, but pex is easier, faster, less fire hazard and less chance of leaks IMO. Here on the farm we have quite a few buildings with water, so the fast, easy and dependable aspects of crimped pex is very beneficial.

Below is a photo of the filtration setup that I added in the basement. Three ball valves allow me to still have water in the event that I need to bypass the filter. This filter mounts with a bracket behind it (if you look closely you can admire the 8/4 QSWO standoff behind it! LOL). I opted for the oversize A.O. Smith filtration setup, but use the more common size on the kiln misting system and the shop well.

So far so good.

418304

[Stephen Tashiro]

Below is a photo of the filtration setup that I added in the basement. Three ball valves allow me to still have water in the event that I need to bypass the filter.

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One thing I wonder about is whether to support the valves in PEX lines with brackets. I suppose the valves for a sediment filter wouldn't be used that often. But are there specially designed brackets for PEX compatible valves?

[Scott T Smith]

One thing I wonder about is whether to support the valves in PEX lines with brackets. I suppose the valves for a sediment filter wouldn't be used that often. But are there specially designed brackets for PEX compatible valves?

I'm not aware of any brackets but have seen manifolds with pex valves in them. In my instance, the PEX runs are so short that a bracket is not really needed.