How to do these drawers?

[Derek Cohen]

I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.


https://i.postimg.cc/RCY9BhMw/Jes_-Entry-Table.jpg


Straightforward enough build, with the case in mitred through dovetails the only tricky bit. I've done a few of these now, so know what lies in store.


There appear to be two drawers. The question is, how does one build drawers without handles?


I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky. I build traditional dovetailed drawers.


One idea I had was to incorporate the lower bevelled case edge/rail into the drawers, and use this as a handle. However, I foresee the difficulty in getting everything to line up perfectly. I like the concept, but not sure about the practicality.


Any other ideas for handless or, if nothing else, complementary handles?


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Paul F Franklin]

Nice, elegant piece. A few thoughts:

What about slightly extending the top bead of the drawers to provide a fingerhold? Or maybe just a swell in the center of the top bead.
Or go the opposite way and carve a slight depression into the drawer front to allow using the top bead as a fingerhold.
You could leave openings in the bottom to allow someone in the know to reach under and slide the drawers out enough to open.
You could have two recesses in the lower rail that would allow pulling the drawers out.
You could make an arm and pivot that would push one drawer out when the other was pushed in a bit, although I can see that leading to never having both drawers pushed in and even....

In terms of a pull, I'd probably go with rectangular blocks with matching veneers on their fronts, tapered on the sides to provide a hold.

[Thomas Wilson]

Finger slot under the case and recess in drawer bottom to ease the drawer out a bit. Or, just tip the table forward until the drawers fall out.

Honestly, I would make a practical alteration, a recess with a slightly raised bar of ebony across the recess.

[Bill Carey]

I thought the same thing - have a finger pull depression in the bottom of the drawer so someone could slide the drawer out enough to pull it the rest of the way from the top of the drawer.

Another thought: judging from your work Derek, you like curved fronts, so how about splitting the drawer front horizontally and let the top half swell outward enough for a finger pull? If the swell was the full height of the top half of the drawer front you would have to make the drawers deeper, but you could also feather the swell for the finger pull back as it approaches the top of the face of the drawer. I've only 1 cup of coffee so I may not be explaining it right. Kinda like this:
417936

And there are always varieties of these types of finger pulls:
417937

[Rob Luter]

Great minds think alike. Leave the carcass bottom open and incorporate pulls into the drawer bottoms.

[James Pallas]

Derek, I suggest these two methods. Let the drawer face hang below the rail. Put a pull bar under the drawer bottom, all of the way across, so it can be reached at any point and allows the drawer to pass the top edge.
Jim

[Tom M King]

False lower face rail actually part of drawer bottoms, and one drawer instead of two, as it appears. Bottom rail becomes pull. It could still have a divider between the two drawer sections for strength, that doesn't go all the way to the front, but helps support carcass bottom.

[Phil Mueller]

IMHO anything other than some way to open the drawer from below (as suggested above) will compromise the clean look. I just don’t think you want to interrupt the cockbeading around the drawers and molding around the opening. It’s a really nice design, that obviously incorporates modern opening mechanism. I’m sure your niece will understand that a traditional woodworker just doesn’t do things that way ;)

[Doug Dawson]

I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.


https://i.postimg.cc/RCY9BhMw/Jes_-Entry-Table.jpg


Straightforward enough build, with the case in mitred through dovetails the only tricky bit. I've done a few of these now, so know what lies in store.


There appear to be two drawers. The question is, how does one build drawers without handles?


I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky. I build traditional dovetailed drawers.


One idea I had was to incorporate the lower bevelled case edge/rail into the drawers, and use this as a handle. However, I foresee the difficulty in getting everything to line up perfectly. I like the concept, but not sure about the practicality.


Any other ideas for handless or, if nothing else, complementary handles?


You could just build it and let _them_ figure it out. :^)

Seriously, how does the original work?

There's an old Russian proverb, to some problems there are no solutions.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's an unusual approach.... The drawer box is recessed about 1" from the back of the visible drawer front. The drawer front is pivoted on a vertical axis at the middle of the front. If you push in on one side, the other side moves forward. You can get your finger around that to pull out the drawer. The drawer front has a spring -- perhaps wood -- so that if you're not pushing on it, it sits in the position you'd expect, parallel to the front of the casework.

I like this approach. It is a little bit of a puzzle, for the family to know, and nobody else. It is definitely a one-of-a-kind piece.

[Jamie Buxton]

When I say "wood spring" I'm thinking of a long thin slat, not a fancy coiled up thin. The long thin slat is a leaf spring. Hold it firmly at one end, and try to move the other end away from where it is. It keeps trying to return to the un-bent position. That's a spring.

[mike holden]

I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.


https://i.postimg.cc/RCY9BhMw/Jes_-Entry-Table.jpg


Straightforward enough build, with the case in mitred through dovetails the only tricky bit. I've done a few of these now, so know what lies in store.


There appear to be two drawers. The question is, how does one build drawers without handles?


I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky. I build traditional dovetailed drawers.


One idea I had was to incorporate the lower bevelled case edge/rail into the drawers, and use this as a handle. However, I foresee the difficulty in getting everything to line up perfectly. I like the concept, but not sure about the practicality.


Any other ideas for handless or, if nothing else, complementary handles?


Regards from Perth


Derek

Large hole in bottom just inside the the lower frame, centered on each drawer. Place indentation/pull strip/finger hole, etc. on bottom of drawer. Place palm of hand on lower frame, curl fingers through hole to bottom of drawer and pull open a couple inches. Complete opening drawer by putting fingers on top of now exposed drawer front and open as far as required. Invisible unless you crawl on the floor.
Mike

[David Eisenhauer]

Sorry Derek, but I'm having trouble getting past the leg attachment to the carcase before I can even look at the drawers. I guess I'd think about attaching a short piece cut out of the lower rail? frame? cock bead? to the bottom of the drawer with some type of finger pull incorporated. Would have to be a thin kerf, clean cut so that it had a continuous look (with a bump added for the finger pull), but hard wood like your jarrah should hold a crisp edge for a long, long time. Those legs, though. Have to beef up the attachment area without altering the clean look too much somehow so you can spread the attaching load out from what looks like a single screw. My Mother had a Danish Modern couch that revealed the single screw attachment of the legs to the couch after one leg got broken off. Useless.

[Doug Dawson]

Sorry Derek, but I'm having trouble getting past the leg attachment to the carcase before I can even look at the drawers. I guess I'd think about attaching a short piece cut out of the lower rail? frame? cock bead? to the bottom of the drawer with some type of finger pull incorporated. Would have to be a thin kerf, clean cut so that it had a continuous look (with a bump added for the finger pull), but hard wood like your jarrah should hold a crisp edge for a long, long time. Those legs, though. Have to beef up the attachment area without altering the clean look too much somehow so you can spread the attaching load out from what looks like a single screw. My Mother had a Danish Modern couch that revealed the single screw attachment of the legs to the couch after one leg got broken off. Useless.

Here's something nobody's pointed out. What makes you think those are even drawers?

[steven c newman]

I seem to recall Ishitani doing finger pulls....cut from brass sheet, bent and soldered. counter sunk holes to screw the pulls into the doors...and the drawers inside.

IF you place small versions of these at the top edges of the drawers...to where they do not show from above the top of the table.....you can also feather the sides of the pulls to blend into the drawer's top edge....leaving just enough for a fingernail...or.....trim all the way around the drawer like a cock-bead....and maybe colour the metal to match the colour of the table...can even mitre the corners of the metal...

[Jim Koepke]

Like many others my first thought was to have a way to reach underneath to open the drawer. A music rack made about a decade ago used this method:

417952

There is a rail under the drawer bottom to allow a finger hold for moving the drawer.

My other thoughts were of either reaching over the top to push the drawer out from the back or using rods and/or levers to start the drawer out.

jtk

[Bill Carey]

Here's an unusual approach.... The drawer box is recessed about 1" from the back of the visible drawer front. The drawer front is pivoted on a vertical axis at the middle of the front. If you push in on one side, the other side moves forward. You can get your finger around that to pull out the drawer. The drawer front has a spring -- perhaps wood -- so that if you're not pushing on it, it sits in the position you'd expect, parallel to the front of the casework.

I like this approach. It is a little bit of a puzzle, for the family to know, and nobody else. It is definitely a one-of-a-kind piece.

I like this idea, but what about pivoting the drawer front on a horizontal axis - push in the top of the drawer and the bottom comes out far enough to open the drawer.

Or go high tech: a bluetooth lock you need to open from your smart phone. :D https://www.ebay.com/itm/293143100080

417953

[Mark Daily]

Use a hidden magnet:

Drill a 1” hole in the center of the drawer front from the inside. Leave about 1/8” thickness. Glue a rare earth magnet in the hole.

Provide a a piece of metal, possibly attached underneath somewhere with Velcro or another magnet. When the metal is held in contact with the drawer front it can be pulled out. If that’s not strong enough, attach another rare earth magnet to the metal or glue it to a piece of wood with the opposite pole facing outward. The attraction of both magnets to each other will add more pulling power.

You might need more magnets or bigger, differently shaped magnets to make it work.

If you haven’t used them before, these rare earth magnets have incredible pull.

[Doug Dawson]

I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.


https://i.postimg.cc/RCY9BhMw/Jes_-Entry-Table.jpg


Straightforward enough build, with the case in mitred through dovetails the only tricky bit. I've done a few of these now, so know what lies in store.


There appear to be two drawers. The question is, how does one build drawers without handles?


I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky. I build traditional dovetailed drawers.


One idea I had was to incorporate the lower bevelled case edge/rail into the drawers, and use this as a handle. However, I foresee the difficulty in getting everything to line up perfectly. I like the concept, but not sure about the practicality.


Any other ideas for handless or, if nothing else, complementary handles?


Those aren't drawers. If you look closely, the legs appear to end in male wooden threads that screw into another piece fastened to the interior of the carcase, which doesn't leave room for what some might perceive as a drawer. This is quite a strong construction, actually.

If you still insisted on having a drawer in this thing, you could attach a hinge along the bottom of the front and have the front swing down (separate to the side and top front moldings) from whatever holding mechanism of your choice, to expose an interior face and drawers set into _that_. You could preserve the strength and still be building something with drawers. A bit more complex than the original, it appears.

[Josh Robinson]

If Doug is right and these are not drawers this idea doesn’t work but if they are could they be drawers that open from both sides? To open reach to the back side and push open toward the front.

[Jamie Buxton]

Here's something nobody's pointed out. What makes you think those are even drawers?
I say they’re drawers because they look like drawers. There’s little reason for th maker to build them to look like drawers, but not be drawers. I bet they are drawers with some sort of push-to-open device.

However, I agree with OP: the typical push-to-open hardware is cheap junk that fails quickly.

[Doug Dawson]

I say they’re drawers because they look like drawers. There’s little reason for the maker to build them to look like drawers, but not be drawers.

Well, for one thing, because it looks good? Nobody has disputed that it's a handsome piece of work.

[James Pallas]

Push on center, open like butterfly. Pivoting.
Jim

[Malcolm McLeod]

Here's an unusual approach.... The drawer box is recessed about 1" from the back of the visible drawer front. The drawer front is pivoted on a vertical axis at the middle of the front. If you push in on one side, the other side moves forward. You can get your finger around that to pull out the drawer. The drawer front has a spring -- perhaps wood -- so that if you're not pushing on it, it sits in the position you'd expect, parallel to the front of the casework.

I like this approach. It is a little bit of a puzzle, for the family to know, and nobody else. It is definitely a one-of-a-kind piece.

^This. Curved backs cut way down on storage space, but I'm thinking this is not really intended as a stand-in for the attic.;)

Or, split Jamie's single drawer into 2. Each swings out on a vertical hinge at the respective sides. The 2 pulls become a vertical design element at the 'center post' of the front. Sort of this:

417980or417981 only vertical...and better??

[Edwin Santos]

Hi Derek,

A little Google sleuthing revealed answers to some of your questions at the retailer's site here: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/chevron-oak-console-table

Among the photos is one showing the drawers. Simple overlay fronts. The specs provide the drawer sizes but no details about operation. My theory is that they open using a pair of something like the Blum Tip-on push opener, probably mounted on the center drawer partition: https://www.blum.com/us/en/products/motion-technologies/tip-on/overview/.

Others like Amazon sell similar mechanisms, and Ikea uses them in a lot of their furniture. You will undoubtedly find many sources in Australia, but by way of example here is one from the US Amazon site: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Touch-Push-Latch-Black/dp/B07DNJNDGV/ref=asc_df_B07DNJNDGV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763090755&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6353497029153328765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030070&hvtargid=pla-573575520691&psc=1

Since this item ships knockdown, I am thinking the legs have something like a hanger bolt installed in the ends which screw into some type of receiving surface mounted hardware (which you can kind of see in the photo and someone else was referencing). If I were building this, I might just glue and wedge the legs into angled mortise holes. You know what to do.

The example is a fairly inexpensive piece of furniture from the retailer so I just don't think anything more elaborate than above is going on. Building it with mitered dovetails will be a massive upgrade. It might look nice to have the dovetails be half blind mitered so the dovetail joint is visible from the side but the end grain of the tails does not interrupt the top or the waterfall effect. Just my opinion.

I hope this additional info helps.

Edwin,

[Patrick Walsh]

How about if each drawer was a 1/4 circle mounted to some kind of spindle. Push on one side of either drawer and it opens..

Built in stop so it stops at 90% and fully open.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Those are drawers with a false front. Hinge them 1/3 from the top, you push the top with your thumb then the bottom sticks out and you can use the bottom to pull open with your fingers. Gravity lets it sit vertical.

[Jim Matthews]

https://youtu.be/4GHjI6W6s6M

[Edward Dyas]

I am planning another build as a wedding gift, this time a niece. She picked out this entry hall table, which she wants in Jarrah.


https://i.postimg.cc/RCY9BhMw/Jes_-Entry-Table.jpg


Straightforward enough build, with the case in mitred through dovetails the only tricky bit. I've done a few of these now, so know what lies in store.


There appear to be two drawers. The question is, how does one build drawers without handles?


I am not in favour (and will not do) drawers on runners. Or use those Push-it mechanisms, which are made of plastic and will last about 5 years, if lucky. I build traditional dovetailed drawers.


One idea I had was to incorporate the lower bevelled case edge/rail into the drawers, and use this as a handle. However, I foresee the difficulty in getting everything to line up perfectly. I like the concept, but not sure about the practicality.


Any other ideas for handless or, if nothing else, complementary handles?


Regards from Perth


DerekThere is a touch release drawer slide that you just push in on the drawer and it pops out enough you can get hold of it. If you wish to make wooden slides you could put a touch catch behind the drawer which would work much the same.

[Doug Dawson]

Hi Derek,

A little Google sleuthing revealed answers to some of your questions at the retailer's site here: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/chevron-oak-console-table

Among the photos is one showing the drawers. Simple overlay fronts. The specs provide the drawer sizes but no details about operation. My theory is that they open using a pair of something like the Blum Tip-on push opener, probably mounted on the center drawer partition: https://www.blum.com/us/en/products/motion-technologies/tip-on/overview/.

Others like Amazon sell similar mechanisms, and Ikea uses them in a lot of their furniture. You will undoubtedly find many sources in Australia, but by way of example here is one from the US Amazon site: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Touch-Push-Latch-Black/dp/B07DNJNDGV/ref=asc_df_B07DNJNDGV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763090755&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6353497029153328765&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030070&hvtargid=pla-573575520691&psc=1

Since this item ships knockdown, I am thinking the legs have something like a hanger bolt installed in the ends which screw into some type of receiving surface mounted hardware (which you can kind of see in the photo and someone else was referencing). If I were building this, I might just glue and wedge the legs into angled mortise holes. You know what to do.

The example is a fairly inexpensive piece of furniture from the retailer so I just don't think anything more elaborate than above is going on. Building it with mitered dovetails will be a massive upgrade. It might look nice to have the dovetails be half blind mitered so the dovetail joint is visible from the side but the end grain of the tails does not interrupt the top or the waterfall effect. Just my opinion.


Thanks for those more illuminating pictures. It looks like the original was not as well-built as I thought it might be, but more along the lines of disposable mass-market stuff, in which case it's going to have to be re-engineered to meet Derek's standards. I still prefer my idea about the false front.

[Pat Barry]

Build them traditional using a modern style, very clean handle. Wooden handle maybe, but better a rectilinear nickel finish handle. Any of the push to open options will end up looking like crap after years of usage. The bottom opening ideas are cumbersome and not user friendly.

[William Fretwell]

That looks like an ‘accent’ piece, not fully functioning furniture. The screw on legs, for shipping and consumer assembly are either inadequate with a metal screw fitting or penetrate further to compromise the ‘drawers’. I doubt the drawers open, even with a push in spring mechanism.
Its the look she likes so divide the front into three, one extra very small gap in the front and make the middle section a drawer. With the drawer on rails the front can be deeper than the drawer and the moulding section at the front can be rounded at the back to make a comfortable drawer pull. The moulding ends on the drawer can be angled so as to break the visible line.
This keeps the table ends free to properly attach the legs into the body of the table. The size of the drawer may end up wider than deep, that does not slide well so keeping it on rails with guides solves that problem.
For me not having a lathe would make the legs the hardest part!

[Edwin Santos]

That looks like an ‘accent’ piece, not fully functioning furniture. The screw on legs, for shipping and consumer assembly are either inadequate with a metal screw fitting or penetrate further to compromise the ‘drawers’. I doubt the drawers open, even with a push in spring mechanism.
Its the look she likes so divide the front into three, one extra very small gap in the front and make the middle section a drawer. With the drawer on rails the front can be deeper than the drawer and the moulding section at the front can be rounded at the back to make a comfortable drawer pull. The moulding ends on the drawer can be angled so as to break the visible line.
This keeps the table ends free to properly attach the legs into the body of the table. The size of the drawer may end up wider than deep, that does not slide well so keeping it on rails with guides solves that problem.
For me not having a lathe would make the legs the hardest part!

The drawers in the example piece absolutely open. They operate using a push opener like the Blum Tip-on. See my post above. Go to any IKEA store and you will see push open drawers because it is a very popular solution for the clean look sought in modern furniture. Here are some photos:

418030418031418032418034

[Gary Ragatz]

Derek,

I think a consultation with your niece might be a good idea. Find out how important functioning drawers are to her. Find out how important the perfectly clean drawer front is to her.

If both design aspects are critical, I don't see anything to do other than the spring-loaded push-and-pop-out drawers (which you don't like) or the reach-under-the-frame approach. I don't care for the reach-under-the-frame solution, because it turns the piece into a sort of "puzzle box" - "Can you figure out the secret to opening the drawers?" But maybe your niece would be okay with that.

If it were going in my home, I'd go for a small, probably long and narrow pull in a dark wood, as someone suggested earlier. Second choice would be a small cutout at the bottom center of each drawer to provide a hand-hold.

Best,
Gary

418039

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks for all the replies. They really helped consolidate my thoughts. I shall comment further on these in a while.


I found the original piece on the web: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/chevron-oak-console-table


It is sold as a flat pack, and poorly constructed. Although the advert states that it is solid oak, it looks veneered ply/mdf to my eyes (the grain on the drawer edges is more obviously veneer, not just the planted fronts, but the upper edge).


If the drawers need a push-it mechanism, to propel it out a few inches, the drawers will need to have reduced friction, and this means they need to be on metal runners. Like kitchen drawers. I have emailed my niece to explain this and that this is a low quality option.


I really liked Charlie's idea of semi circular drawers. I would like the challenge of building them (I came close to building drawers like this in the Harlequin Table). However, I think they are impractical. Fun, but impractical. I have suggested to my niece that the hall table uses more traditional drawers with unobtrusive handles.


The overall design is clean and quite nice. It could benefit from more refined details. That will be my contribution. I need to retain the look of the legs, but with a different undercarriage. The current design likely utilises metal connectors, something like these ...


https://www.ausujo.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/s-l1600-3-81-600x574.jpg


They are likely quite strong, but a more refined construction would use a sliding dovetail with a staked mortice-and-tenon. This should add a lot more meat under the legs and still retain the slim profile ...


https://i.postimg.cc/QxWRy07c/Sliding-dovetail.jpg



Regards from Perth


Derek

[William Fretwell]

Thanks Edwin, I had hoped they did not open so the legs had a chance! Those spring openers are not going to last 100 years!

[lowell holmes]

I am late to the party, but I would consider these.

https://www.google.com/search?q=spring+loaded+drawer+slides&sxsrf=ACYBGNThCNi7KtAbRE7dUI_bHhv4SUEKxQ:157178361 3726&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjRz9af9rDlAhUBUa0KHTS3ASoQsxgIMw&biw=1523&bih=736

[Frank Pratt]

I am late to the party, but I would consider these.

https://www.google.com/search?q=spring+loaded+drawer+slides&sxsrf=ACYBGNThCNi7KtAbRE7dUI_bHhv4SUEKxQ:157178361 3726&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjRz9af9rDlAhUBUa0KHTS3ASoQsxgIMw&biw=1523&bih=736

He doesn't want slide hardware in what will be a piece of fine furniture.

[Tom Bender]

Hi Derek
Lots of good ideas here so far. There is little reason to make this a KD piece. It will fit thru any door assembled. You could add a 1/2" x 3" x 3" block to the bottom at each corner to mortise the legs into.

Adding Ebony pulls 3/8" x 5/8" x 4" will improve the look of this piece. Mortise them into the front and shape them a little. You will not get any complaints.

[Dan Carroll]

I must be missing something. First though I had was a wooden spring of some kind to give you the push release action. Understand not wanting to do some kind of plastic mass produced stuff, but and 1/8 inch splint mounted at an angle to push the drawer forward should be long lasting. You may have to put a dado into the back of the drawer to help with alinement. I don't think you need metal tracks to get a smooth enough operation. Just need a strong enough spring.

[Scott Winners]

I like Marinus' idea in post #27

[Derek Cohen]

Here is a mechanism that will push one drawer out as the other is pushed in ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pVnsSMGP/Drawer-mechanism.jpg

With this design, one has to reset the drawers manually, that is, levelling requires pushing on both drawer fronts. This is not as easy as a traditional drawer design.

The other issue is that the drawer depth is reduced by 50mm. That is needed to push a drawer out 50mm, which is necessary. The issue is that the reduced drawer depth places the drawer at risk for wracking. I wonder if there is a formula for this?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Consider that traditional drawers can only hang out of the opening so far in addition to the need for this spring.

[Mark Daily]

I know you don’t want cheap “push open-push closed” mechanisms but Blum makes these slides that do what you want.
I don’t think Blum makes poor quality slides but I haven’t used a lot of them.

https://www.blum.com/us/en/products/motion-technologies/tip-on-blumotion/movento/programme/

[Mike Brady]

I'll second the theory that the front of that table is an apron, not a drawer.

[Jim Koepke]

I'll second the theory that the front of that table is an apron, not a drawer.

Many people who view this table will also feel the front is an apron, not a drawer.

It is an easy way to have a hidden drawer.

How many drawers do you see here:

418518

There are three.

What looks like a dust panel at the bottom is a drawer:

418519

It is always nice to have a little out of the way storage.

jtk

[Mark Daily]

I'll second the theory that the front of that table is an apron, not a drawer.
I thought posts 33 & 35 confirmed they are drawers.:confused:

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

I thought posts 33 & 35 confirmed they are drawers.:confused:

We were looking at some furniture recently and there was a whole range of furniture that did not have a handle and were using a push lock, even tallboys. These were locally made and used Blum hardware. But I agree with Derek that I would not use those locks - well made furniture can last hundreds of years whereas these locks may perhaps last only 20 years maximum.

[Doug Dawson]

We were looking at some furniture recently and there was a whole range of furniture that did not have a handle and were using a push lock, even tallboys. These were locally made and used Blum hardware. But I agree with Derek that I would not use those locks - well made furniture can last hundreds of years whereas these locks may perhaps last only 20 years maximum.

In the grand scheme of things, maybe this piece was not meant to be.

So, just give it up? Drink the soup, or go home.

[Patrick Walsh]

Modern junk is what Blum is.

The motion activated or just tap the drawer doors drawers and appliances are really starting to take off in the high end cabinet world.

Yes I have a problem with it. I mean what are we teaching ourselves if we can’t even be held accountable to open and close a dam door or drawer.

It’s just nuts.

Hey Alexa “I need the brain I gave away back”

Alexa can you get me a brain.






In the grand scheme of things, maybe this piece was not meant to be.

So, just give it up? Drink the soup, or go home.

[Edwin Santos]

Modern junk is what Blum is.



If Blum is modern junk, is there a preferred line of cabinet and drawer hardware you use?

I ask because I'm always looking for improvements.

[Derek Cohen]

In the grand scheme of things, maybe this piece was not meant to be.

So, just give it up? Drink the soup, or go home.

Well, I have begun building. Should I spoil the surprise, or are you willing to wait? :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Modern junk is what Blum is.

The motion activated or just tap the drawer doors drawers and appliances are really starting to take off in the high end cabinet world.

Yes I have a problem with it. I mean what are we teaching ourselves if we can’t even be held accountable to open and close a dam door or drawer.

It’s just nuts.

Hey Alexa “I need the brain I gave away back”

Alexa can you get me a brain.

Interesting viewpoint, Patrick. It is like saying that the emerging furniture design standards set for the current generation(s) emanates from the kitchen.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Doug Dawson]

Well, I have begun building. Should I spoil the surprise, or are you willing to wait? :)


Do proceed.

[Patrick Walsh]

Hmm,

Ok I’m humble enough to admit that you lost me.

Well at least I think you did.

Would try again to make your point in a manner i might comprehend.

Sometimes I’m not so smart. Or maybe I’m just not so smart?

In all seriousness I kinda follow but not really..

i
Interesting viewpoint, Patrick. It is like saying that the emerging furniture design standards set for the current generation(s) emanates from the kitchen.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Patrick. You are plenty smart :) I was a bit obscure (as often am .... when I was a kid, my parents would make me put my hand up when I was kidding since my humour can be pretty dry).

You did not actually say this, but my thoughts were piqued by your comments. Essentially, the model for what is good furniture today is increasingly moving in the direction of the construction methods of Ikea and the convenience of the modern kitchen. This is what kids of today are exposed to.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Patrick Walsh]

I kinda thought so,

But it was unclear,

Being i respect your work, and also you vocation I suppose in my mind that adds up to actually wanting to know what the hay you meant..

Lol

Can’t wait to see progress pictures. That reminds me I need to contribute..


Hi Patrick. You are plenty smart :) I was a bit obscure (as often am .... when I was a kid, my parents would make me put my hand up when I was kidding since my humour can be pretty dry).

You did not actually say this, but my thoughts were piqued by your comments. Essentially, the model for what is good furniture today is increasingly moving in the direction of the construction methods of Ikea and the convenience of the modern kitchen. This is what kids of today are exposed to.

Regards from Perth

Derek