Dedicated Table Router

[John McGovern]

Hi again, Folks,

This is my second post to this forum and once again, I look for advice.

As I haven't had a wood shop for a decade, my previous post regarded what features would be desirable in a modern table saw. The Forum was of great help abd I decided on the Griz G1023RLWX, a 5HP with router extension - https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-5-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RLWX. The intent is to install a dedicated router in the extension - that is, the router shall be relegated to table duty only.

This router must be small (so I can access the saw's handwheel without swearing, but powerful enough to build cabinet doors. Besides power and reliability, ease of bit replacement, height adjustment and collet size versatility is required. What should I look for here?

Thanks again.

John

[David Buchhauser]

Hi John,
I have the same saw. In my opinion, it would be desirable to install a router lift on the table saw wing. In addition to the convenience of easily adjusting the router height, this will allow for easily lowering the router below table height for clearance with wider cuts on the saw. I prefer the Bosch 1917EVS for router table duty. I would also suggest an enclosure under the router for dust collection. I like the Rockler dust bucket.
David

https://www.rockler.com/dust-bucket-dust-collection-for-router-tables?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1bm8-dCg5QIVEf5kCh3Q_wcTEAQYASABEgIGnvD_BwE

[Bill Lyman]

John: Look at the Milwaukee Router Model 5616. I believe it meets your specifications. I have had one for 14 years, generally dedicated to the router table, and used it for everything from an entertainment center/breakfront with cabinet doors, mortises in table legs, to 1/16" round over to break edges. Take the handles off the fixed base and it should fit.

[glenn bradley]

More food for thought. I also have my table on the left; common feed direction and clearance requirements. I set my router table miter slot the same distance from the bit that the tablesaw miter slot is from the blade. I get to use jigs on both machines easily this way. My router table started out as a wing, grew to a table but, is still attached to my saw. I have stayed with this configuration from my contractor saw, trough my hybrid,

417776

and to my current saw.

417777

I get the advantage of additional real estate for both machines. Your "best" configuration will depend on what you do, how you do it and sometimes even more important . . . the room you have to do it in.

[Jim Becker]

For the longest time, I would have recommended the PC 7518 for this task, but my understanding is that in recent years, the quality hasn't been quite as good. So I'd likely go the big Milwaukee...very similar to the PC including the same size motor diameter for compatibility with lifts. It's a heavy duty router...many CNC machines use it as a lower cost alternative to a spindle, in fact. For heavy table use, the smaller 12 amp routers are not going to be quite as capable, but if need be, they certainly can be used.

[Frank Pratt]

I have a Milwaukee 5625 residing in my router table. It's the bigger brother to the 5616 and may be more suitable if your doing raised panel doors or other stuff that used large bits.

[Gary Ragatz]

John,

I have a Triton MOF001 as a dedicated table router, and am happy with it. One advantage of the Triton is that it doesn't require a separate lift. At 2-1/4 HP, it's powerful enough for the things I do - but I've never attempted raised panel doors with it. Triton also has a larger (3-1/4 HP) model, the TRA001, that I'm sure would have the power you need, but I'm not sure about the size.

[Mike Cutler]

Hi again, Folks,

This is my second post to this forum and once again, I look for advice.

As I haven't had a wood shop for a decade, my previous post regarded what features would be desirable in a modern table saw. The Forum was of great help abd I decided on the Griz G1023RLWX, a 5HP with router extension - https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-5-HP-240V-Cabinet-Left-Tilting-Table-Saw/G1023RLWX. The intent is to install a dedicated router in the extension - that is, the router shall be relegated to table duty only.

This router must be small (so I can access the saw's handwheel without swearing, but powerful enough to build cabinet doors. Besides power and reliability, ease of bit replacement, height adjustment and collet size versatility is required. What should I look for here?

Thanks again.

John

John

I think you have a lot more clearance between the tilt mechanism hand wheel and where the router will actually be located.
I would get the biggest router I could fit into the space. You know that the project your planning will require the use of bigger router bits, like in the 2-1/2" diameter range. Even with multiple cuts, for the raised panel bit, that's still a big bit to spin at 10,000.
I haven't kept up with routers for the past few years. I have some "midish" sized PC8529's, and a couple of Festools (OF2200, and OF1400). When my 8529's were table mounted, I drilled a hole in the top, to allow access to the plunge mechanism. (The 8529's can be height adjusted from the top by going through one of column posts.)
There are any number of router raising systems on the market, should you go that direction, but if you have easy access to the router, it's really not a big deal to adjust height from underneath, using a dial indicator, or iGauge, on top of the table. But you really want a router with a somewhat "finer" method of depth adjustment.

My experience with respect to dust collection of a table mounted router, is that I will never use a box below the table exclusively. I would always want the maximum amount material possible being extracted from the top. Pulling all of that material down into a box, and then to the dust collector, exposes the router electronics to the maximum possible dust and debris. Pull as much as possible from the top.

[Rick Potter]

I will only comment on router size. I built my first kitchen on a bench top router table using a PC 690. No lift, simple fence.

I used a full size panel raising bit and cope/stick set. As I remember, I made three passes for the panel raiser, and one or two (?) for the cope and stick.

I set the fence at the final position, and used spacers made of masonite or MDF of varying thickness, the last being 1/8" masonite for the finish cut.

Certainly not recommended for production, but for hobbyist needs, the router does not HAVE to be the newest and biggest.

PS: now have the big PC in a full size table, but still use spacers, including a 1 /16th thick spacer for that finish cut..eliminates burning like magic.

[Bill Lyman]

I guess I should add that the cabinet doors on the entertainment center/breakfront are raised panel - rail and style. Milwaukee 5616 with Freud 99 780. One more thing I learned the hardway is do not enclose the router on 4 sides. It may cause the router to overheat. I took the door to the cabinet off, and have never had a problem since.
417788

[jack duren]

I guess I should add that the cabinet doors on the entertainment center/breakfront are raised panel - rail and style. Milwaukee 5616 with Freud 99 780. One more thing I learned the hardway is do not enclose the router on 4 sides. It may cause the router to overheat. I took the door to the cabinet off, and have never had a problem since.
417788

If you add dust collection the top and bottom of the router you can beat the heat problem....

[Curt Harms]

If I were to plan on doing much panel raising I'd want one of the 3.25/3.5 rated HP machines and variable speed to get the RPM down around 8,000 - 10,000 for larger horizontal panel raising bits as recommended by most router bit manufacturers. I guess a router lift is required for really fine height adjustment. I have a Router Raizer attachment on a Freud FT2000E (no longer available in the U.S.) It uses a 16 TPI lead screw so isn't that fine but is reasonably fast to raise and lower bits below the table to get them out of the way when using the table saw. A router that has been popular in table use is the Hitachi though I don't see those mentioned much. Under a router table seems like a good place for them; the appearance is umm, 'unique'.

[John McGovern]

Hi John,
I have the same saw. In my opinion, it would be desirable to install a router lift on the table saw wing. In addition to the convenience of easily adjusting the router height, this will allow for easily lowering the router below table height for clearance with wider cuts on the saw. I prefer the Bosch 1917EVS for router table duty. I would also suggest an enclosure under the router for dust collection. I like the Rockler dust bucket.
David

https://www.rockler.com/dust-bucket-dust-collection-for-router-tables?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1bm8-dCg5QIVEf5kCh3Q_wcTEAQYASABEgIGnvD_BwE

Hi David,

May I ask if you miss the miter slot in the extension? And, what lift do you like?

My thanks to you and all the others who are holding my hand with another thread. You folks are so helpful.

John

[Thomas McCurnin]

PC 7518 would be my vote

[Frank Pratt]

May I ask if you miss the miter slot in the extension? And, what lift do you like?

The miter slots are in the main table, not the extensions.

The big Milwaukee can also be used without a lift, but a good lift provides a much nicer user experience. I have the bottom enclosed with a 4" duct and a 2.5" flex that drops from an overhead duct to the fence. Pretty much gets it all.

[glenn bradley]

I’ve been running a Milwaukee 5625 for almost 15 years. It never does anything but work. I run mine in a woodpecker PRL version one which is no longer available. There are many good lifts available today however. I did run the 5625 without the lift for quite some time. This is very serviceable but, like a lot of things in our hobby, somethings work and somethings work at another level :-)

[Jared Sankovich]

I have a 7518 in a jessem mast-r-lift II, but only use it for the odd jobs where one of my shapers don't work better.

[Alex Zeller]

I have the current Bosch 15a router. It came with both fixed and plunge bases. I needed it for a job and it works great but it has the trigger on one of the handles. Much nicer than having it on the top (or if mounted in a table bottom) when using it free hand. However it can't be mounted in a lift. I have a stand alone cast iron stand that has the fixed base mounted to it so all I need to do is slide the router out and put it in the plunge base when I need it. I don't have any plans to switch to a lift so it's fine for me.

[lowell holmes]

I have a Delta Series 2000 saw which has a long table on it. I mount my router in the table, but I don't leave it there when not in use.

I can use my fence or miter gage to feed wood into the router.

[Stephen Bandirola]

I'll jump on the Milwaukee 5625 band wagon, I use the wrench that came with it (way it came from the factory ie no aftermarket router lift) and while it may not be as smooth as an expensive router lift it works great.
And its never been underpowered.

Steve

[John McGovern]

The miter slots are in the main table, not the extensions.


Two additional questions, Frank.

If you are using the miter slot in the saw, you must stand in front of the saw and reach across, or stand on the side and reach over the router. Additionally, the miter slot is quite a distance from the router, no? What am I missing here?

And to all the others, your suggestions are good research for me!

Thanks to all.

John

[William A Johnston]

I had a table with the Porter Cable 7518. The bearings failed twice in as many years. I ended up purchasing a Woodpeckers aluminum router plate and a Triton 3 1/4 hp router that can be used as a lift along with the Rockler dust bucket. The dust bucket is fantastic. I do have a little extra room so I built the router into my table saw outfeed table.
Bill

[Carl Beckett]

I had a table with the Porter Cable 7518. The bearings failed twice in as many years.

!!!

I just replaced the bearings in mine, after what I thought was too little use.

[Jim Peck]

John,

I have a Triton MOF001 as a dedicated table router, and am happy with it. One advantage of the Triton is that it doesn't require a separate lift. At 2-1/4 HP, it's powerful enough for the things I do - but I've never attempted raised panel doors with it. Triton also has a larger (3-1/4 HP) model, the TRA001, that I'm sure would have the power you need, but I'm not sure about the size.

I have the TRA001. It is a beast (in the good sense). While beastliness might be a disadvantage for handheld use, for table use it is excellent. 3.25 Amps. Built-in lift with above-table control. It also has dust-collection hookup, which works fairly well. That said, it takes a small hose (1.25", I think), so you'd probably need to use a shopvac rather than a 4" or 6" DC system.

At about $350, it's a relative bargain compared to the price of a router with similar power plus a lift.

If I used the router for a living, maybe a dedicated lift would make more sense to me. But the Triton works well for my weekend warrior purposes.

[Jim Peck]

... A router that has been popular in table use is the Hitachi though I don't see those mentioned much.

I can't speak to anything substantive about Hitachi, but thought I'd post this as a public service annoucement of sorts. Hitachi's parent is Metabo and they are rebranding Hitachi tools with the Metabo name. I've seen Hitachi tools on clearance at Lowe's recently as this change takes place.

[Rich Aldrich]

I posted this and I saw a post I missed the first read through.

I put a 3-1/4 ho Triton in my router table. It uses the plung as a router lift. It comes with a crank handle that goes through the route mounting plate. It raises and locks the spindle do you only need one wrench and your free hand can hold the router bit while you tighten the collet. This thing was designed for a router table.
I don’t know if you have enough room but definitely something to consider.

[David Buchhauser]

I had a table with the Porter Cable 7518. The bearings failed twice in as many years. I ended up purchasing a Woodpeckers aluminum router plate and a Triton 3 1/4 hp router that can be used as a lift along with the Rockler dust bucket. The dust bucket is fantastic. I do have a little extra room so I built the router into my table saw outfeed table.
Bill

I also have the Rockler Dust Bucket on my table. I agree!! And quite a bargain as well. I use this in conjunction with a dust collection port mounted to the rear of the fence. The dust bucket has an adjustable intake to modulate the ratio of lower to upper vacuum.
David

[Jim Peck]

At about $350, it's a relative bargain compared to the price of a router with similar power plus a lift.

A correction to my post above: Street price of the big Triton is about $250, not $350. Apologies for the typo.

[jack duren]

I thought hitachi and Triton were cheaper options for router tables. I never heard how they held up over the years with heavy usage...

[Jim Peck]

I thought hitachi and Triton were cheaper options for router tables. I never heard how they held up over the years with heavy usage...

It's a fair question. While I'm pleased with my Triton, I haven't put it through heavy usage and have only had it about a year. I trust others with longer experience will be able to weigh in.

For me, as a hobbyist, I tried to weigh functionality (power, built-in lift mechanism) against what it would likely cost for a big Milwaukee, PC, etc. plus a lift. For someone using a tool on a daily basis such as a professional, the additional expense may be trivial over time.