What type of glue

[Tom Bender]

Glues like Titebond are really strong but they are also very hard when dry. Sometimes I don't need so much strength but would like to easily remove squeeze out. A softer glue would be better. Something that can easily be removed with a chisel without removing the wood attached to it, something that can be sanded faster than the wood around it. Any suggestions?

[roger wiegand]

Hard to beat hot hide glue. It is soft and easily scraped off before it dries out, or the squeeze out becomes brittle once fully dry and easily scrapes off. It sands easily.

Some folks like liquified hide glue (eg Old Brown Glue). I have little experience with it, so don't really know how it compares. I've used fish glue for leather or cloth to wood applications and never had a problem with squeeze out removal. Not sure it's as strong as you'd like for furniture.

One of the digs on Titebond is that it doesn't get fully hard. I usually find it pretty soft and easy to scrape off the next day (I use a well-sharpened paint scraper to take off the lumps then a swipe with a plane for the finished surface). The same method seems to be fine once it gets as hard as it gets, though it doesn't come off as cleanly as the hide glue.

[Lee Schierer]

What I do is, about 2 hours after I glue up a joint I remove the squeeze out. At that point it is rubbery and removes easily with a red devil paint scraper.

[Jim Becker]

What I do is, about 2 hours after I glue up a joint I remove the squeeze out. At that point it is rubbery and removes easily with a red devil paint scraper.

This. Best practice with PVA is to scrape off squeeze-out before it's completely cured and do this rather than cleaning with a wet rag while it's still wet to avoid getting glue into pores that can affect a finish if it's not sanded back beyond that glue.