Suitable relay for three wire control on a VFD

[Tom Trees]

Hello folks
I have been walking through the steps with another forum member on setting up a VFD for his saw.
Unfortunately the VFD does not have a relay OR COMMON for three wire control/push button station.
Can any of you guys point me in the right direction to find a suitable relay for him?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.
Tom

[Tom Trees]

Hello again
Guessing maybe I'm not being specific enough, as I have asked this question before for my own VFD's in passing with no response.

I am not looking for a relay to isolate the supply.
This is for a home workshop, not for a business, so the need for the 10 second machine stop and isolated rule does not apply.
The VFD is in an enclosed hefty cabinet so dust or damage won't be a factor in the decision.

It is merely for between a NO start push button and a NC stop push button.
It is for a tablesaw, so I have advised him that it was safer to have a hands free paddle switch for his stop button, rather than two wire control using a toggle switch
He has made a paddle for his buttons already.

Hope this clears things up a bit.
Sorry for any confusion or vagueness.
I have an in-built relay on my VFD, so I have no experience with this.
Thanks again
Tom

[David Buchhauser]

What current and voltage rating? Solid state or mechanical?
David

[Tom Trees]

What current and voltage rating? Solid state or mechanical?
David

Thanks for your response David
I think the VFD has 12v terminals, but I'm unsure TBH.
And I don't know what I need regarding solid state or mechanical.

I'd imagine that most VFD's have the same voltage output for external switch controls.

My VFD is the same as the one my mate has, but his relay does not work from the get-go.
My relay failed upon swapping my VFD over to the tablesaw (for no reason whatsoever I might add) as I wanted three wire control on it.
It got no abuse during the long voyage... 6 feet away from the bandsaw.

No problem as I had an older one the same so just swapped out the front panel and it works flawlessly.
Seems a problem with the new batch of Huanyangs.


I bought a newer VFD with auto shutoff fan control to put onto the bandsaw,
and works via two wire control with a simple toggle switch.

Here's what my setup was on the bandsaw.
It seems strange to me, that its not a straight up answer, as I believe the Teco FM50 needs a relay also for three wire control for a push button station.
Here's some pictures, in hope that it may clear things up a bit.
If not I can disassemble my old Huanyang that got fried from the motor stalling and give you a more in-depth look at it.
It is the newer batch of them, so will definitely be exactly the same as my friends one.

As you can see I'm using bog standard push buttons, and the relay goes in-between into that RST terminal (nothing to do with the RST mains 230v input terminals)
https://i.ibb.co/NtzjvcM/DSCN2230.jpg

417540417541

I'm gonna guess this might be the most useless information ever, that I'm giving you.
I hope you are not frustrated by my lack of knowledge.

Awaiting a scolding
Thanks
Tom

[Tom Trees]

Looking at the manual now, and it states no additional information on the voltage or anything else is relating to the multi input control circuit terminals.
This RST relay terminal is titled as reset, FOR is forward, and DCM is described as common terminal of digital and control signals.

Surely there are folks using a Teco FM50 or similar on a tablesaw or spindle moulder etc, and have hands free off switches and not using a toggle switch?

Are you all doin the Holmgren paddle?

[Terry Therneau]

https://www.factorymation.com/22PBA2-N4P-200-00

This is a simple contactor with the green button normally open (NO) and the red normally closed (NC). It's what the TECO expects. You need 3 wires from the VFD to the box: common, start, stop. The voltage is low, 12V I think. I used some leftover telephone cord (old, old leftover, four wire red/green/yellow/black), just about anything will work.

I don't have a photo handy, but my tablesaw I have two 4x6 paddles and a 'finger' on a common rod that goes from left to right just under the fence, the wooden finger just touches the stop button. I don't have to look to slap one of the paddles -- left hand or right -- and shut off the saw.

For a second saw I have a simple off/on switch, but it's a red mushroom: pull for on, push for off. I don't have to look for that either, but it is smaller.

Terry T.

[Tom Trees]

So you're saying the Teco actually has what I'm calling a relay?

What you're calling a common is what I need.

Should I edit my post and change the word relay with common, or is a relay also called a common?

I thought the Teco FM50 needed one for three wire control, but I'm obviously mistaken, I shall edit my title, and a few bits.
One step closer
Thanks Terry
Tom

[David Buchhauser]

So you're saying the Teco actually has what I'm calling a relay?

What you're calling a common is what I need.

Should I edit my post and change the word relay with common, or is a relay also called a common?

I thought the Teco FM50 needed one for three wire control, but I'm obviously mistaken, I shall edit my title, and a few bits.
One step closer
Thanks Terry
Tom

Here is a solid state relay. It can be controlled by a DC voltage between 4 and 32 volts. It is used to switch an AC voltage (on or off). It has a maximum current rating of 50 Amps. I would need to see the schematic or wiring diagram of what you are trying to achieve in order to provide any more useful input.
David
(Electrical Engineer)


https://www.alliedelec.com/product/idec-corporation/rssdn-50a/70174931/

417546

[Tom Trees]

Thanks David
I could give you a schematic but the picture is as helpful as it.
The part I'm after should only be the price of a pint of beer, as its on a cheapo VFD.

What happens without this component is, one has to keep their finger held on the push button switch for the motor to run, take your finger off and it stops.
To explain this, I will break it down in the simplest way I can, which is the bog standard test for wiring switchgear on an VFD/inverter, (its what the pro's do)
Normally folks use short wires and figure out the configuration like this.

Forgetting the switches for the minute, one can do the same thing with short wires on this VFD I have.

All one needs to do the test is have 4 short wires
1 wire in FOR, 1 wire in DCM, and 2 wires crammed in RST.

Twist or hook the DCM wire with one of the two RST "Common" wires.
FOR can be struck off the other RST "Common" the motor runs. (the FOR just needed to be struck momentarily and is not connected to anything)

To stop the motor unhook/separate the DCM with the other RST "Common"

It's that simple.
If I can just find the part as there's no information about this "common"
Probably the worst name it could be possibly called if ones searching that into Google :rolleyes:

Any help appreciated to source this cheapo part.
As said, I can open it up as I have a spare drive if anyone's interested.
Way over my head, but someone may find it interesting.

Thanks again
Tom

[Steven Cooper2]

I just use a $10 powermatic paddle switch. With one wire to run, one to ground/common. Sure it's a 20 amp 240 rated switch but it's what I had. A tiny toggle switch will do the same. It essentially functions like a light switch or toggle switch but it has a button for start and a button(paddle) for stop.

Ground/common is often referenced, in describing switches and buttons as they will operate in several ways. For low voltage stuff like this they may be pull up or pull down where you essentially will either short the terminal to VCC (maybe 5 or 12V) or ground(or common) the controller will read this change of state, its not exactly like a light switch in some cases, but its still a switch.

It looks like in your case you can use any normal on/off maintaining switch between DCM and FOR.

[Charles Taylor]

The FM50 doesn't need an external relay for three-wire control. I borrowed this illustration from OWWM:

417558

[David Buchhauser]

The FM50 doesn't need an external relay for three-wire control. I borrowed this illustration from OWWM:

417558

Per the schematic, you need a normally closed momentary switch and a normally open momentary switch. The part previously cited looks like it would work, but is more expensive.
https://www.factorymation.com/22PBA2-N4P-200-00

Here are several from Amazon that are pretty inexpensive and should work fine as long as you have a way to mount them.

https://www.amazon.com/SPST-NORMALLY-CLOSED-BUTTON-SWITCH/dp/B006WRVOS2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

https://www.amazon.com/SPST-BUTTON-SWITCH-MOMENTARY-NORMALLY/dp/B006M4ZGOI

You can search Amazon or Ebay to try to find a matched pair if cosmetics is important and you want them to look the same.

David

[David Buchhauser]

Here is a matched pair:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-a13071000ux0934-Uxcell-Button-Switch/dp/B00EDMIZGM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=push+button+switch+no+and+nc&qid=1570854949&s=automotive&sr=1-5

[Tom Trees]

So by what you guys are saying, it's not just a common part my friend needs to have three wire control, using momentary switches like my friend and I already have...
and it has to be two wire control, with a sturdy permanent switch type like a heavy duty light switch or toggle type,
so he has no option but to do the Holmgren paddle.

I don't think he will be pleased after making a paddle system for the momentary type.

Still if anyone is wondering on why the "common" is faulty on my Huanyang VFD, and the one my friend has, I would be more than happy to
"inspect" the one that I swapped over to my spare parts drive.
I don't have much more than a basic multimeter, but I can take a video, or pictures of it if anyone is interested.
I did work well for a few months, so it's not like the part was omitted.
I don't fancy swapping the front panel back to the working drive though, for fear that this one might forget the "common" component.
It's on a tablesaw as well, and with a paddle system like I told my friend to make.
I think its a good bit safer than the Holmgren type, as if some stranger tried to turn it on, they would have to figure out that you can't touch the paddle
when poking your finger through the hole to press the NO momentary on button.
It's very sensitive, so you couldn't be wearing a heavy glove to turn it on.
417570417571https://i.ibb.co/LzT1g83/IMG-20170421-101613.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/BrSv8LB/SAM-2105.jpg

Tom

[David Buchhauser]

Are you using the VFD for a phase converter? In other words, does the saw have a 3 phase motor and you are wanting to run it from 240Vac single phase power? Otherwise, I'm not really sure why you would want variable speed on a table saw. I have a 4HP 3 phase belt sander that I am running on 240Vac single phase using a 5HP VFD. This also gives me variable speed control which is nice for this application. The VFD has a button on the front that I push to turn the motor on or off and a knob to adjust the speed. My setup doesn't use any relays or other external momentary switches. I don't normally wear any gloves when using my table saws.
David

[Tom Trees]

Of course David :rolleyes:
Three phase machines are far far, far cheaper in Ireland, and I only have 13amp receptacles in my rented house.
If I were stuck with single phase machinery, I'd have a maximum of 2HP as it is, and have to change fuses often.
And before you ask, No, I don't want to upgrade my supply to 16a MCB in the shed, as that would upgrade my rent also.
Why, because I can tune in my machines with the soft start .....
My 24" bandsaw uses the same juice on idle as the laptop I'm typing on right now.

But hey you know that already, and no I don't wear gloves.
I have to remind myself that you folks have a larger rated CU in your shops, than we have in our houses.

I know some over there are a bit gung ho about tablesaws, but I choose, and advise to have the safest setup possible, and that means having a paddle.
Speculating on why I choose to have a safe system sounds a bit silly.

Now, if I could only get a straight answer as to why this component is rather difficult and confusing to get any information on,
it would be a big help.
I hope I've cleared up any reasons for this thread to get derailed with my cantankerous response.

Sorry though, I do apologise for coming across as a briar.
I will not be happy until I get my friends tablesaw working in a safe manner.
It's the least I could do to pay back those who have helped me so much, when I was in my friends shoes.

If it were a bandsaw or another friendly tool in comparison, I could let it slide and just have advised my mate to use a toggle switch.
.
My old Huanyang is sitting on a shelf waiting for an opportunity for anyone who is interested in seeking out why this component failed.
All the best
Tom

[David Buchhauser]

It is for a tablesaw, so I have advised him that it was safer to have a hands free paddle switch for his stop button, rather than two wire control using a toggle switch
Tom

I have a paddle switch similar to the one shown below on my 5HP cabinet saw. This paddle switch will work in conjunction with your VFD to control the 3 phase AC voltage to your 3 phase motor. You can still use your momentary push button switches or toggle switches to control your VFD, then use this paddle switch to connect/disconnect the 3 phase AC voltage output from your VFD to your table saw 3 phase motor. If you can provide the make and model of your VFD, I will draw you a connection diagram to show you how to wire it up. The wiring diagram for your VFD would also be helpful.

Maybe also consider editing your profile to show your location (Ireland). This might make it easier for members to provide helpful responses in the future.
David





417637 417638

[Tom Trees]

Hi David
Its the 3hp/2.2KW Huanyang VFD, I could recite the model HY02D223B in my sleep, I have studied just about every single aspect of it
that is online, I know the in's and outs of it...
That's not to say I fully understand how to fix it if the traces melt, but I can say I've done some homework on this VFD in particular
The factory reset ALA ribbon cable trick if one uses a potentiometer and it cuts out
Making the fan "shut up"
How to fit the missing parts for a braking resistor to work
And probably a few other things that don't come to mind now.

Its probably a matter of time before someone documents what I'm after.
It would be nice if I could start the ball rolling so some experienced person could come along and document it properly, in a knowledgeable professional fashion.

The documentation on these is terrible, and I don't think it would be of much help.

My post disappeared, and this is all that was saved.
To sum it up again
Its the switches for the VFD that is the problem, it wouldn't be if it was just two wire control.
I think it seems unnecessary to have another switch to isolate power to the motor
and probably expensive to get a switch rated for the motor output, that also controls a two wire control signal to the VFD.

I walked my friend through the parameters explaining what they all meant, as he knew nothing more than wiring a plug at the time.
He got the saw for a bargain and stumbled across my posts on a UK forum, as I have the same saw and am using the same inverter.
I do not wish to overwhelm him, and to be perfectly honest I would rather learn how to do this first myself than be advising him to do something I haven't done before.
I am not knowledgeable about this, only knowledgeable about certain basic aspects I can understand.
so it could be a recipe for disaster.
These things scare the dung out of me, and I'm very cautious and repetitive about the dangers involved if giving advice on them, but at the same time feel obliged
as I can save the professionals from doing the basic explanation, so they can have more time to explain the more complicated things.
I like to throw a wee question in now and again.

I just imagine that the common could be either fixed or that it could be replaced for the price of a bag of chips...sorry French fries :cool:
I might have a chat with "Cindy" and see what they say, if its not something straight forward I might be needing some help and will report back.
They are very nice to talk with, although the language barrier can be a bit of a challenge,
We shall see.
Thanks David for your perseverance, and to all who chimed in.

Tom







https://i.ibb.co/Wnc1tVN/DSCN1982.jpg

[David Buchhauser]

So it sounds like what you are after is to connect some sort of "paddle" switch directly to the VFD control inputs (FOR, REV, etc.). You are not interested in simply installing the "paddle" switch between the VFD outputs (U,V,W) and the motor. Am I correct in my assumption?




417641

[Tom Trees]

Yes David
I do not wish to involve the U,V,W motor terminals,
and only want to have a separate start and stop button that goes into those small terminals for EXT switchgear.
I don't want to isolate anything.

The momentary push buttons do not work correctly on my friends inverter since the common is defective.
The result of this defective part means that the motor will only run if his finger is held down on the start NO momentary button.

If the common worked, he would not have to hold his finger on this button, and would run until he hit the stop NC momentary button.

That's why I was saying that a toggle switch will work since its a permanent signal, the trouble is that a toggle switch does not make it straight forward to work with a paddle
and takes some engineering like in this video @ the 5 minute mark into the demonstration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1R3kZWJk98

It looks like a bit of an awkward setup compared to a hinged plank with a dowel in it.

[David Buchhauser]

I now understand what you are trying to do. Is your friend able to start and stop the saw using the green and red buttons on the front of the VFD? The more information I have about the defects of his unit - the better.
David

[David Buchhauser]

The momentary push buttons do not work correctly on my friends inverter since the common is defective.
The result of this defective part means that the motor will only run if his finger is held down on the start NO momentary button.

If the common worked, he would not have to hold his finger on this button, and would run until he hit the stop NC momentary button.


Which button does he have to hold his finger on to make it run? The green button on the front of the inverter, or an external button that he has wired to one of more of the terminals on the VFD?

[Tom Trees]

Hi David
He has the external buttons wired into the terminals in the same configuration as I have shown .
He has to hold his finger down onto this start NO push button and if he takes it off the motor stops.
So the red NC stop button is of no use yet.
I'd guess (but unsure) that it would only be effective if he kept one finger held on the start button, and with the other hand hit the red stop.

Thanks
Tom


He tested the motor and VFD already using the keypad on the VFD and is happy with the unit, and does not want to send it back.
H

[David Buchhauser]

Please show me your configuration again with a wiring diagram. Which wires does he have attached to which terminals on the following diagram?
417644

[David L Morse]

Have you checked the parameter settings? According to the manual what you have should work:

https://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=417645&d=1570960931

[David Buchhauser]

Your up early (or late depending on the time zone). Apparently the VFD in question is defective. Normally I would recommend that they buy a new one. The friend of the op is apparently on a budget. You might want consider reading the entirety of the post for a full explanation.
David

[David Buchhauser]

But if by some chance you have the solution to this problem, please share it with Tom and his friend. You might make all of us very happy. I have read your posts before and I have gathered that you are pretty much an expert on many fronts.
David

[David L Morse]

Your up early (or late depending on the time zone). Apparently the VFD in question is defective. Normally I would recommend that they buy a new one. The friend of the op is apparently on a budget. You might want consider reading the entirety of the post for a full explanation.
David

Who's up early? Indiana's in the Eastern time zone;)

Actually, I've been following this thread from the beginning. I may be misunderstanding some of it but it looks to me like he has two identical VFDs with the same issue, one of which previously operated correctly.

The default parameter settings would operate as described. It's necessary to change PD0046 to get the desired functioning.

When I troubleshoot a problem I like to eliminate the easy stuff first. So, wiring, switch operation, and parameter settings. It appears that Tom has looked at the first two.

[Steven Cooper2]

I now see the paddle you are talking about and why you would want to go 3 wire.

It may be an easy thing to swap the momentaries with a start stop switch and go back to 2 wire if you have them mounted in a junction box, but that may be too stiff of a switch for such a system.

[David Buchhauser]

Hi David
He has the external buttons wired into the terminals in the same configuration as I have shown .
He has to hold his finger down onto this start NO push button and if he takes it off the motor stops.
So the red NC stop button is of no use yet.
I'd guess (but unsure) that it would only be effective if he kept one finger held on the start button, and with the other hand hit the red stop.

Thanks
Tom


He tested the motor and VFD already using the keypad on the VFD and is happy with the unit, and does not want to send it back.
H

Hi Tom,
Here is a latching push button switch that I think will work for your friend. Push it once and it stays on, push it again and it turns off. A latching relay would work also, but may be "overkill" for your application.
David



Mounting Hole Size : Φ19mm
LED voltage: 12V DC ;Blue LED Light
Shell Metarial:ZN-AL ALLOY (waterproof design)
Self-locking Switch , Press the button switch work ; Press the button again ,switch stop work .
Latching Push Button Switch can be applied to car motorcycle modificine ,electric equipment ,appliance,machine ,home Lamps and so on


https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Latching-Pushbutton-Switch-Waterproof/dp/B071H9KWL6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=2+button+latching+relay&qid=1571017147&s=industrial&sr=1-1

417675

[William Chain]

I may have solution worked out, I had the same issue. It involves a $10 circuit I bought from amazon (intended for guitar amps, but it has the appropriate relay and it is cheaper than the constituent parts). Stay tuned. It works on my bench, just have to get it on the switch and VFD this evening. If it works, I'll post the details.


Hello folks
I have been walking through the steps with another forum member on setting up a VFD for his saw.
Unfortunately the VFD does not have a relay OR COMMON for three wire control/push button station.
Can any of you guys point me in the right direction to find a suitable relay for him?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.
Tom

[William Chain]

Ok - my VFD is a cheaper model, Isacon or Askpower. The trigger to turn the motor on and off is a simple matter of closing a circuit between a lug marked GND and a lug marked FWD. One can also close the circuit to a lug marked REV to run in reverse. The control lugs on my VFD have a +12V source and a +5V source. No options for three wire control. I offer the following solution if your VFD is similar.

Here's the solution, and maybe this will work for those that have a cheap VFD like mine without three wire control built in.
I bought a small relay assembly (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LWX9PPA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) really meant for guitar amps, etc, with multiple headphone connections (or so my friend says). Click link for a source to buy it. Cheap, $13 to my door.

Here are the wiring diagrams for the relay board.
417807
417808

Check out the image on the purchase site. You'll see the board features two resistors, a transistor, and two more resistors. We unsoldered the transistor, simply jumped that connection on the top of the board, and removed the bottom two resistors, effectively deleting everything from BC517 on down (see wiring diagram). The resistors really can stay, but they were in the way of manipulating the resistor so we took them off.

From there, here's what you do:
417809

I identified the start/stop/common wires on the saw nose button switches with my multimeter. This is best with a second set of hands - one must identify the start wire, and then to identify the common, you need to be able to press both buttons at once while interrogating with the multimeter.
Connect the +12V output from the VFD to the switch common wire.
Connect the start button wire to the VCC connection on the board.
Connect the stop button to COM1 on the board.
Connect COM2 to the VFD GND lug on the VFD control lugs, and also bridge COM2 to the GND on the board.
Bridge NO1 on the board to VCC on the board.
Connect NO2 on the board to the VFD FWD control lug.
I set the VFD to accept the buttons for start/stop - on my VFD, it was parameter Pn04 = 2, and reverse is disabled - on my VFD, it was parameter Pn05 = 1.
And - BINGO. Start starts the saw, stop stops the saw. Yay. The relay on the little board takes the input from the start button and closes the link between GND and FWD. The relay opens again when you hit the stop button. Exactly as one would get from the three wire control on the magnetic starter.

417810
417811
417812


I may have solution worked out, I had the same issue. It involves a $10 circuit I bought from amazon (intended for guitar amps, but it has the appropriate relay and it is cheaper than the constituent parts). Stay tuned. It works on my bench, just have to get it on the switch and VFD this evening. If it works, I'll post the details.

[Tom Trees]

Sorry, I'm so late to reply back guys, this has been a very interesting read.
I wanted to do a wee bit of research on this before replying back to you knowledgeable folks, but couldn't get the time.

David Buchauser,
I have the wiring done as in the picture, I used to have the Huanyang VFD mounted onto the bandsaw,
I actually had two on the bandsaw, the first I let the magic smoke out of bogging down the saw salvaging window frames cutting putty with a 1 TPI blade.
my supplier of previous bandsaw blades were wandering on the tired old tires, so probably not the best idea to try cut next to putty, destroy the set and fight the drift.
The motor got quite warm so it coulda been worse.

I have an Isacon VFD on it now, as it has the auto shutoff cooling fan, and sometimes I use the bandsaw frequently throughout the day,
so it's nice to have the peace...
Absolute guess, but I'm under the assumption that it's good to have/leave it powered up and to treat the capacitors like rechargeable batteries.
as I've read that some are left on 24/7, so the Isacon seems like a good choice to me.

It was a mystery why the common/reset failed on my inverter because it was new, got no neglect and was just moved to the tablesaw a few feet away.
I always wait for these units to thoroughly drain the charge from the capacitors before going near the input/output.

My friend is talking with the supplier to try and sort out what's wrong.
He has sent a video to the seller, but it's not very clear, and I think he's going to make another demonstrating the failed common/reset/relay
using short wire to fit in video frame/eliminate variables like switches, and do so in the configuration and sequence that I have said..

I have advised him to find some thin wire to make up four strands, a pair of these are squeezed into the common/reset/relay terminal.
Demonstrating FOR to DCM exhibiting his saw working, ala... two wire control.
Afterwards hooking/twisting the DCM(stop) to the common/reset.

And then to start his saw strike the FOR (like a match) against the other thin common/reset wire, and keep it separated from the other wires.
To stop the saw, pull apart the common/reset, and the DCM stop apart.

I also said it would be a good idea to show that, Pd046 common terminal parameter was set to 14 (default).

He has yet to get back to me on this.



David L Morse
That is genius!
I thought had all those parameters sorted and never thought about the manual would have more interesting stuff in it.
It seems even if the common failed, one could change the function of the terminal.

FOR, REV, RST(common) terminals...and three other spindle terminals.
I said to my mate it might be worth seeing if he could swap the FOR and RST terminals over, or if he was to be safer in regards to possibly damaging
a terminal, to choose the REV terminal as the common.
Maybe making sure the other reverse parameter elsewhere in the book would be disabled, might be a good idea.

I responded or bumped my mates thread on a UK forum, and got a reply stating that a relay needs power to work and won't work independently.
That must be why David Buchauser wanted to see my setup as he was going to draw a schematic for me. , thanks BTW : )

Would these other ports have the capacity to power the relay/common/reset?

Another thing is I must have a mooch around my inverters to see another source of a low voltage supply for this kind of thing.
My saw is buried under stuff and I can't get to it to have a look.

William
That sounds really interesting as I was thinking about getting another of the Isacon/Askpower drives of the same size and dimentions
if I could get this niggle sorted out, It would be no contest, as who want's a noisy fan running? : )

David L Morse's reply looked really promising, hopefully a common/reset/relay function can be allocated via parameters
I am eager to find the manual for the Isacon/Askpower now.
If that sounds all too much like wishful thinking, then your device sounds clever.

Thanks for posting, I am eager to see how things pan out.
Cheers folks

Tom

[David L Morse]

Tom, look at the manual excerpt I posted. It shows exactly the three wire control you are trying to accomplish. PD0046 must be set to 04, not 14, for this to work.

[Tom Trees]

Thank you David
I can't exactly understand why PD046 would be changed to stop instead of default reset, nor am I asking for an explanation,
but if you say this is how it should work, that's music to my ears :)

I will report back afterwards to see how it goes for him, after I give my mate an e-mail in a few minutes.

I don't have access to pictures of the setup David, but have the manual from the newish Huanyang I bought, so will seek to find if I am missing something.
Looking for the diagram of the control circuit terminals on page 11 and 12, and noticed that DCM is titled as ground in brackets, whilst RST is reset.
I thought the RST Reset would have the ground in brackets. and obviously FOR is what it is.

What's interesting is that ACM also has ground in brackets, with the description as common terminals of analog and control signals.

Just for what its worth the picture I posted here and sent to my friend was confirmed that it was correct.
That's not to say it means the only way to do it though from what you are saying.
I just followed some instruction and have stuck to it since, so will look it up.


Oops, I forgot to say to the other David
I will suggest the latching push button switch for consideration , if any of this does not work or turns out to get complicated.

Thanks again folks
Tom

[Tom Trees]

Great news! my friend had got his push buttons working.
He swapped the function of the REV terminal to act as the RST/relay/common
Changing Pd 045 to 4.
Many thanks to you guys.

William
This might be worth looking into on the Isacon/Askpower units.
I was favouring these because of the fan shutoff control, if it can be programmed for three wire control it would be the winner.
Although the Huanyang mod for the fan looks simple enough and cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x882vvX_L7Y&t=10s

I haven't found my Isacon manual to check out the parameters for three wire control

Cheers for the help folks
Tom

[David Buchhauser]

Great news! my friend had got his push buttons working.
He swapped the function of the REV terminal to act as the RST/relay/common
Changing Pd 045 to 4.
Many thanks to you guys.



Glad to hear you've got it working. I suppose that it sometimes pays to read the manual (when all else fails).
David

[Tom Trees]

Reading it is one thing, understanding what you have read is another matter:confused:
I attempted to on numerous occasions, and got an instant glazing over look in my eyes.
Somethings only make sense when you are knee deep in the trenches, so I suppose I shoulda had another look beyond the troubleshooting section.
Easy to get tunnel vision by following the same instructions without question and never differing from what is the norm, as these things are complicated.

I have posted this info in the comments on a few of the Huanyang videos on YT, so hopefully anyone who has the same issue will know what can be done.
Thanks for the help David

Tom