Best Dovetail jig for production boxes

[Mark e Kessler]

Looking for the simplest most straightforward jig for utilitarian drawer boxes for kitchen, bath, shop etc.
I do hand cut for furniture but would like something general boxes, was looking at the porter cable or the Keller, I also saw that leigh makes one similar to the Keller.

Any comments, criticism appreciated!

[Carl Beckett]

I have one of the older Leigh adjustable type. Never use it (in fact should sell it), although it 'works' it just requires a bunch of setup/tweaking. Those simple fixed template types look pretty straightforward which I would lean toward for a basic system.

For anything not cut by hand, I use the WoodRat (with digital readout). Pretty brainless, quick, and infinite adjust-ability.

[Scott Brader]

I have the PC and feel like it's a great tool for the money. I added the Leigh vacuum/rest attachment which makes a world of difference. There is virtually no mess to clean up when using it.

Scott

[David Kumm]

If doing production ( even low production ) quantities, I'd look for a used Omec or Dodds single bit machine. I found one for about 2K and it is way faster than a jig. Dave

[jack duren]

You'll be lucky to find a dodds,etc. Rare to find one around for sale. We sold one 7 years ago and most who called didn't even know what it was. Have only seen one come up since....sounds like you need a PC omnijig. Had the LEIGH and sold it....

[Mark e Kessler]

Should have mentioned, not that much production - not building cabinets for a living otherwise no question Dodds or Omec...


If doing production ( even low production ) quantities, I'd look for a used Omec or Dodds single bit machine. I found one for about 2K and it is way faster than a jig. Dave

[jack duren]

I've used the omnijig for drawers when I has my cabinet shop. The Dobbs was faster but not enough to blow $5k on one.. I can do a set of dovetail drawers for cabinet in one day. . At the time I got $45 a drawer....

[Mark e Kessler]

Really? Dodds has been around forever making dovetail machines...


You'll be lucky to find a dodds,etc. Rare to find one around for sale. We sold one 7 years ago and most who called didn't even know what it was. Have only seen one come up since....sounds like you need a PC omnijig. Had the LEIGH and sold it....

[jack duren]

I think we had a SE-1

[David Kumm]

SE1 was made for Dodds by Omec. Mine has pneumatic clamps and does four sizes. They don't come up often but with used machines it pays to watch and be ready to pull the trigger quickly if a deal comes up. Dave

[jack duren]

Se 1 IS pneumatic.

I'm in KC and I never see them. We sold ours 6.5 yrs ago...

[Pete Staehling]

With a jig like the porter cable is a variable speed router required/desirable? Or would something like the PORTER-CABLE Fixed Base, 11-Amp (690LR) be a good choice for a router dedicated to the task?

[Jim Becker]

With a jig like the porter cable is a variable speed router required/desirable? Or would something like the PORTER-CABLE Fixed Base, 11-Amp (690LR) be a good choice for a router dedicated to the task?
Fixed speed router is generally fine, and great if dedicated to the task, but if one is buying a new router, one of the mid-range kits that includes variable speed is a better buy for use beyond just dovetails.

[jack duren]

I've got an old Bosch 1604 that's been dedicated to dovetails around 20 years. Single speed as Jim says is fine...

[Edwin Santos]

I have had good experience with the Keller and would recommend it for your situation. I use mine on the router table where I feel the dust collection is much better than using it with the router hand held.

I can't speak to any of the commercial machines others are referencing but I did use the Keller once to do a job consisting of 35 large drawers made out of 12mm Baltic Birch and it performed beautifully.

[Mark e Kessler]

Thanks, would you recommend the phenolic or aluminum, the 16” or the 24”? I am thinking the 16” would be adequate

[Mark e Kessler]

Thanks, do you have the phenolic or aluminum. Have you ever had an “oops” and can it be repaired satisfactorily?



I have had good experience with the Keller and would recommend it for your situation. I use mine on the router table where I feel the dust collection is much better than using it with the router hand held.

I can't speak to any of the commercial machines others are referencing but I did use the Keller once to do a job consisting of 35 large drawers made out of 12mm Baltic Birch and it performed beautifully.

[Bradley Gray]

+1 on the Keller. Get 2 routers so you don't have to change bits.

[Mark Bolton]

We have a Leigh in the shop and they are not as fiddly as people thing and I do like the ability to skew the fingers when needed if you have wide material that may have a little cup or wont pull down flat. The thing I find with the Leigh is if you dont use it regularly and your brain isnt the type that permanently retains information with regards to setup and the overall understanding of the mechanics of the jig, you will be at square one every single time you set it up and may get frustrated.

I can setup the Leigh in my sleep even after not using it for months. I like the versatility but I would agree if your not looking for a dedicated machine (smarter if your even doing modest quantities) a fixed finger jig may be better.

[jack duren]

We have a Leigh in the shop and they are not as fiddly as people thing and I do like the ability to skew the fingers when needed if you have wide material that may have a little cup or wont pull down flat. The thing I find with the Leigh is if you dont use it regularly and your brain isnt the type that permanently retains information with regards to setup and the overall understanding of the mechanics of the jig, you will be at square one every single time you set it up and may get frustrated.

I can setup the Leigh in my sleep even after not using it for months. I like the versatility but I would agree if your not looking for a dedicated machine (smarter if your even doing modest quantities) a fixed finger jig may be better.

I liked the Leigh for what it could do but knowing I was more dedicated towards cabinetry it didn't make sense to have both.

[Mark Bolton]

I liked the Leigh for what it could do but knowing I was more dedicated towards cabinetry it didn't make sense to have both.

No doubt. Cabs here as well. Dedicated dovetail machine is the key but the fixed jigs would be more foolproof. The jigs are brutal for time regardless.

[Doug Dawson]

Looking for the simplest most straightforward jig for utilitarian drawer boxes for kitchen, bath, shop etc.
I do hand cut for furniture but would like something general boxes, was looking at the porter cable or the Keller, I also saw that leigh makes one similar to the Keller.

Any comments, criticism appreciated!

If you're cutting these all day long you'll get so good at it that you won't need no stinking jig. You say utilitarian. So who cares what it looks like.

[Edwin Santos]

Thanks, would you recommend the phenolic or aluminum, the 16” or the 24”? I am thinking the 16” would be adequate

I have found that 16" is adequate. Remember, the jig can be unclamped and moved so in theory the workpiece size is unlimited.
I would get the aluminum pair even though the single double sided phenolic version is a few dollars cheaper.

Here is a thread with some interesting ways to optimize the Keller jig: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176804-Souping-Up-the-Keller-Dovetail-Jig

If you intend to cut Baltic birch, just know it presents its own challenges. In order to cut it without a ton of splintering, I had to sandwich the workpiece in between two pieces of stock so it was fully supported on the entry and exit. Again, I use the jig on the router table for improved dust collection. Here are some photos of the pantry project which used Blum Tandem undermount slides. I also included an example of cutting a very large workpiece on the router table for a big drawer which also mounted on Blum Tandems. By the way, the pantry drawers were all cut in just one evening, after preparing all parts to size the night before.

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[Dave Cav]

Keller and two routers.

I also have a Leigh (got it at a garage sale) with two dedicated routers. Never use it, need to sell it and the routers.

[richard poitras]

+1 on the Keller Jig, Simple to use with good re-saults.

[Steve Jenkins]

Agree on the Keller. Used the 16”er for years until I ran across a like new Exrema single spindle for 500.00.

[Dave Sabo]

I have an entirely different view on this: NO JIG.

I would (and do) order almost all of my drawer boxes from dedicated drawer manufacturers. They are so efficient at it that it's near impossible to compete on an expense basis.

You can do it cheaper only IF you get free wood, don't pay or charge for your time , or all those saws , jigs, routers and bits you'll use. They"ll make whatever size and sepcies you want and send them made up or knocked down ready to assemble. I usually get small /modest orders in a week or less.

[Mark e Kessler]

I agree with you if I still had a business and I was trying to make money (the little that can be made...) when I did I ordered them assembled and prefinished, the fact that you are assembling and finishing is confusing. This is mostly for my personal projects around the house as the only thing I would/do sell now is highend furniture and machined cut dovetails will never be included there. Now that I don’t have kill myself trying to make a buck I actually enjoy building cabinets on occasion and $300-$400 for a jig will be less than then buying, my labor is free and lumber/ply is pretty inexpensive, honestly the worst part is the finishing for me


I have an entirely different view on this: NO JIG.

I would (and do) order almost all of my drawer boxes from dedicated drawer manufacturers. They are so efficient at it that it's near impossible to compete on an expense basis.

You can do it cheaper only IF you get free wood, don't pay or charge for your time , or all those saws , jigs, routers and bits you'll use. They"ll make whatever size and sepcies you want and send them made up or knocked down ready to assemble. I usually get small /modest orders in a week or less.

[jack duren]

I made money on them. How fast, how many jobs you have lined up, etc can play a role in that. i always had maple shorts laying around around from job to job. Never cost me anything. Just recycled... I got enough shorts in the shop now to do another set.

For the smaller more personal shop it's okay. I only offered it when customers were tired of high production shops that didn't offer it.
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[Ron Selzer]

I have the Leigh D-3, only jig i have used. Very easy for me to Setup for thru dovetails on 15/16" thick, 4" to 24" wide, 12" to 64" long cherry most of the time, popular and white oak occasionally
Use two PC 690s with foot switches, keep bits in both on the shelf all the time
Bought the VRS for it after cutting the first dovetail on it.
I find it very fast to change width primarily and thickness occasionally
constantly changing from pins to tails
NO WAY NO HOW will I cut hand dovetails again.
I DO THIS FOR RELAXATION AND FUN

[Jim Becker]

I would (and do) order almost all of my drawer boxes from dedicated drawer manufacturers. They are so efficient at it that it's near impossible to compete on an expense basis. .
Yes, I've done that for larger jobs for my home...the kitchen and all the vanities/built-ins when our addition went on. I used Keystone, but there are quite a few sources and the prices are pretty much the same or less than buying the material before doing the labor. That's less practical for smaller projects, however, unless one lives near the source and can pick them up. I also bought the knock down version because that reduced shipping cost and putting together precisely cut drawer boxes is fast and easy. I actually have my D4 for sale right now as I haven't used it in years. I went to hand-cutting through dovetails for furniture joinery and most drawers I build are for situations where I don't need dovetails...glue, screws and butt joints do the job well for those. But that's based on specific projects...dovetails do have a place and I'll use them when they are appropriate.

[Carl Beckett]

You know, I was looking at that stack of drawers and thinking I might likely NOT use dovetails for such a build.

I might instead use the incra i-box jig and gang/stack and cut several at a time with a dado. A good dado might be a cleaner cut and ganging them would be much faster than the 1-off dovetail jig

[Mark e Kessler]

Humm, kinda was thinking for my limited use maybe that's the way to go. I wouldn't use the incra but thinking my slider would make quick work of that. I mean here's the thing, for the shop a rabbit, glue and pins is all that's really needed, a lot of basic build kitchens that I did used this method without issue, but for my house and the occasional build for someone I know (no more cabinet work for strangers) I would like to dress it up a bit hence the post. Not sure if its faster with the Keller pro and 2 routers though, probably faster than a Leigh jig though...



You know, I was looking at that stack of drawers and thinking I might likely NOT use dovetails for such a build.

I might instead use the incra i-box jig and gang/stack and cut several at a time with a dado. A good dado might be a cleaner cut and ganging them would be much faster than the 1-off dovetail jig

[Edwin Santos]

If dovetails are not required, and especially if the drawers are for shop use, the approach I took with my shop drawers was to miter prefinished baltic birch using a dedicated sled on the table saw with the blade tilted at 45 degrees. I reinforce the miters with biscuits and plenty of glue. The Merle corner clamps are great for jobs like this. The biscuits hold the assembly together for gluing and prevent sliding around. Nice clean look, never had one come apart yet.

[Jim Becker]

Edwin, you can get a similar clean look without the complexity of mitering by using butt joints, the biscuits/dowels/Dominos if you prefer, glue and pocket screws on the fronts and backs into the sides. This even works with .5" sheet goods with the proper setup for the pocket screws and 1" pocket screws instead of 1.25" pocket screws. This, of course, assumes that you have an applied drawer front in play.

[Jared Sankovich]

My shop drawers are butt joints with glue and narrow crown staples. The bottoms are 3/16 hardboard. About as fast and cheap as you can build.

[Edwin Santos]

Edwin, you can get a similar clean look without the complexity of mitering by using butt joints, the biscuits/dowels/Dominos if you prefer, glue and pocket screws on the fronts and backs into the sides. This even works with .5" sheet goods with the proper setup for the pocket screws and 1" pocket screws instead of 1.25" pocket screws. This, of course, assumes that you have an applied drawer front in play.

Jim, 1/2" sheet goods can actually be closer to 7/16". If you're comfortable driving a pocket screw through material that thin, then you have more guts than me. I would be worried that there is too little meat on either side of the screw and too little depth in the mating piece. Maybe if the drawer is not loaded heavily and treated gently I could see it holding up.

The other issue with butt joining is relying on the material thickness being consistent if your drawers size is critical. This is one of the reasons I went to reinforced miters for utility drawers because all parts can be cut to final precise drawer width and length and minor deviations in thickness do not matter. I just kept running into inconsistent sheet good thickness. Now that I think about it, you could build all your drawers undersized and then shim the slides, but now we're talking more time...

A table saw or router table drawer lock joint cut with a dado stack or a slot cutter would be another good way to go. There are also a couple of special router bits designed for single setup drawer lock joints that could be a good solution for the OP if dovetails are not required. Of the two styles I have used, I prefer this one: https://www.freudtools.com/products/99-240

[Jim Becker]

I've done it a number of times, Edwin, but yes, the tolerances are close. Sheet goods are actually metric which partially accounts for the "nominal" sizing. Using quality "multi-ply"/BB can help with the issues you describe, but I do agree that the method I described requires careful measuring. I would think that the thickness challenge would be as much for mitering, too. :)

Lock miters are really great...if one can get the setup dead on. I've struggled with that even with the fancy setup-jig!