very simple workbench?

[Brian Sommers]

OK, basically I want to make a SUPER SIMPLE bench.

I'm thinking 2 - 2x12's and one of these https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-...gearpublish-20 (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-WM125-Workmate-350-Pound/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=sxin_3_osp99-c4d8065f_cov?ascsubtag=c4d8065f-82c9-438e-b912-b11f8930359f&creativeASIN=B000077CQ0&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.c4d8065f-82c9-438e-b912-b11f8930359f&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=work+table&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000077CQ0&pd_rd_r=a23e50cd-2d95-485e-bc64-20904088dc2f&pd_rd_w=Pb0pI&pd_rd_wg=i8Z1f&pf_rd_p=53eff971-6e12-4016-9864-b6dfd929b2b3&pf_rd_r=8MHG6H3466SYBEQG9BK9&qid=1570470847&tag=gearpublish-20)

I have one already and putting them together and clamp everything in the middle and go for it.

I'd drill 3/4" dog holes, but my problem comes in to how to clamp for edge work with planes?
I don't want to spend the money for end vises or anything fancy like that.

advice?

(maybe I should get one of these just working and clamping and then use my 2x12 "table" for assembly etc.
or maybe all I need is just this: https://www.amazon.com/Keter-Folding...gearpublish-20 (https://www.amazon.com/Keter-Folding-Workbench-Sawhorse-Capacity/dp/B001CWX26Y/ref=sxin_3_osp99-c4d8065f_cov?ascsubtag=c4d8065f-82c9-438e-b912-b11f8930359f&creativeASIN=B001CWX26Y&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.c4d8065f-82c9-438e-b912-b11f8930359f&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=work+table&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B001CWX26Y&pd_rd_r=156fd32e-204c-4832-a9e7-4a8f27440048&pd_rd_w=7LEhp&pd_rd_wg=CEpvf&pf_rd_p=53eff971-6e12-4016-9864-b6dfd929b2b3&pf_rd_r=W1PWXWDVWK3JEQQ369M3&qid=1570471006&tag=gearpublish-20)


I'm a rank noob and I want to make little things like step stool/tool box combo or small end tables or benches and chairs (way down the road)

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Brian,

My first workbench was a Black & Decker Workmate. One of the problems with these is they are too light to hold work still for planing and other work. You might be able to weight down the tail end with a bucket full of cement to improve stability. The bigger problems come when trying to make a mortise or chop dovetails.

My father built a bench back in the 1950s made with 2X12s and 2X4s that is still in use. It was built to be solid and steady.

With an apron along the front and back of a bench it is easy to drill a few holes to allow the use of pipe clamps or other clamps to hold work for edge jointing.

jtk

[Brian Sommers]

Well maybe what I should do is to build a simplified Nicholson bench, because to be honest that's what I really want.
I'm thinking 72" should be plenty long. I could do 3-2x8 or maybe even 3-2x6 for the top.

and maybe 1 - 2x12 on each long edge.

braced stacked 2x6's for legs. That wouldn't be that terrible to do.

[Jim Koepke]

braced stacked 2x6's for legs. That wouldn't be that terrible to do.

My dad used 2X4s for the legs and base. He used 2-2X4s vertically with a single horizontal 2X4s between them and on the outside at the top and bottom. This and other bracing made it a very rigid bench. It wasn't made for wood working. He made it for his appliance repair shop.

jtk

[Josh Robinson]

I built Paul Seller’s work bench out of 2x4 and 2x6 could construction lumber . Think I paid $160 for the vice Which was more than I spent on materials. It looks simple but by the time you finish you’ll have a decent understanding of hand planing and mortise and tenon joinery. It’s solid as a rock and will give you a bench that you can use right away and also start to experiment with and decide if and where you want dog holes, hold fasts, drawers or if you’d rather build a different style or a more sophisticated bench altogether. And you can watch a play by play version of him building it for free on YouTube. I’m a ways from wanting to build its replacement.

[David Eisenhauer]

You want a simple bench to be used for woodworking, so build a simple bench. It is woodworking. There are many plans for benches, both complicated and simple, plus methods outlined for holding work without the uses of vises. A simple Nicholson certainly would work and I believe you would be better served by it than the two you show from Amazon. Using construction grade lumber and some doubled up 2x4 legs, especially if you use carriage bolts for joinery rather than nails, will result in something very usable. Go for it.

[James Waldron]

Homework:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru2ZiNs_Wek

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lemsx2_ArnQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2fss7li9p0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukMMQ1nvXt8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukMMQ1nvXt8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYpxhYHMNmI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0p4IpCIks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0p4IpCIks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyDjZWo3b3U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6qy6yJRvEY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoGVMgYrrr0

And if you want to get a bit fancier, try:


https://paulsellers.com/paul-sellers-workbench-plans/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiCnhVgVD5E

A workbench is the most important tool in your shop. Don't start by cutting corners. Seller's bench is easy, he provides a wealth of guidance to a newbie, if you follow along, a very decent bench will result that will justify a bit of pride in your work. It's a bit more than you had in mind, but it's a lot more thant a cobbled-together jack-leg "thing" that won't work all that well and won't last very long.

[Jim Matthews]

I recommend starting with a sawhorse solution.

Josh Finn has an elemental design that can be stored easily and built with common, available tools and materials.

https://modernwoodworkersassociation.com/www.modernwoodworkersassociation.com//2012/12/jeffs-josh-finn-workbench-update.html

[ken hatch]

LAP sells the "Naked Woodworker with Mike Siemsen" https://lostartpress.com/products/the-naked-woodworker?_pos=1&_sid=96d61b5bb&_ss=r



(https://lostartpress.com/products/the-naked-woodworker?_pos=1&_sid=96d61b5bb&_ss=r)

[ken hatch]

had to do it in two post formatting is screwed up.

Mike is a hoot to watch and you end up with a very good bench that is designed for the first time builder who doesn't have a bench to build a bench on and has limited tools and skills

ken

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Well maybe what I should do is to build a simplified Nicholson bench, because to be honest that's what I really want.
I'm thinking 72" should be plenty long. I could do 3-2x8 or maybe even 3-2x6 for the top.

and maybe 1 - 2x12 on each long edge.

braced stacked 2x6's for legs. That wouldn't be that terrible to do.

Go to that direction.

Sometime in the close future I plan to replace my French style 25+ years old workbench by a Nicholson one, also. Actually a couple of weeks ago I received four hand forged holdfasters...

[Jim Koepke]

Go to that direction.

Sometime in the close future I plan to replace my French style 25+ years old workbench by a Nicholson one, also. Actually a couple of weeks ago I received four hand forged holdfasters...

Keep it simple. Unless you build your perfect bench, it will help you to refine your design for your needs to build your next bench.

Osvaldo, surely jealousy abounds on your holdfasts, greatly gloat worthy.

jtk

[Scott Winners]

Couple things.

1. Your first bench will not be your last bench. Build what you can afford, do it now, get going on the projects you want to make, learn the shortcomings of the bench you have, make another bench.

2. The Paul Sellers bench is going to last a long time and do a lot of things for the small amount of money it costs. You can build a stouter longer lasting bench, but it will probably cost more money. On quality - lifespan - cost it will be hard bench to beat for your second build.

3. Go ahead and buy a single inexpensive vise. Use it, adjust it, use it some more, just go with it. When you come to loathe it you will be ready to buy a more expensive vise.

4. If you want to use a hand plane on stuff you are going to need a heavy bench. Or a big pile of concrete on the low shelf of a light bench. Just build what you can and then pile your anvil collection on the lower shelf.

You will find some folks here seem to be in it for tool restoration or tool collecting and others are making various things. It is a big hobby with a lot of room in many directions. I am pretty well done restoring hand planes and will be buying from the guys who have restored dozens of hand planes in the future.

Build anything for a bench, just slap some wood together and get going. It is the experience of using that first bench that will help you figure out the second one.

[ken hatch]

Couple things.

1. Your first bench will not be your last bench. Build what you can afford, do it now, get going on the projects you want to make, learn the shortcomings of the bench you have, make another bench.

2. The Paul Sellers bench is going to last a long time and do a lot of things for the small amount of money it costs. You can build a stouter longer lasting bench, but it will probably cost more money. On quality - lifespan - cost it will be hard bench to beat for your second build.

3. Go ahead and buy a single inexpensive vise. Use it, adjust it, use it some more, just go with it. When you come to loathe it you will be ready to buy a more expensive vise.

4. If you want to use a hand plane on stuff you are going to need a heavy bench. Or a big pile of concrete on the low shelf of a light bench. Just build what you can and then pile your anvil collection on the lower shelf.

You will find some folks here seem to be in it for tool restoration or tool collecting and others are making various things. It is a big hobby with a lot of room in many directions. I am pretty well done restoring hand planes and will be buying from the guys who have restored dozens of hand planes in the future.

Build anything for a bench, just slap some wood together and get going. It is the experience of using that first bench that will help you figure out the second one.

Scott,

Have you been reading my mail? :D Reading your post I wasn't sure who wrote it, I looked for quotation marks but didn't see any:).

If you can't tell, I couldn't agree more. The only quibble is the heavy bench part. A bench with a well designed base can be fairly light and not move. My portable Moravian benches are very light (my guess is a good bit less than two hundred lbs. Someday I need to weigh one.) and they are rock solid when using hand planes. My shop Moravians are a little heaver but still much less than a same sized Roubo and are just as stable as the much heaver bench.

ken

S

[Jim Matthews]

The only quibble is the heavy bench part. A bench with a well designed base can be fairly light and not move.

This is an important point.
A bench can be easily counterweighted at the base, or fixed to the floor (or wall).

It need not withstand cataclysmic forces.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

I built a Nicholson over the summer, and I like it a lot. No vise, which saves you a fair amount of money.

Nicholson is pretty simple as it is. What is there is there for a reason.

Watch Mike Siemsen’s free video on YouTube before you buy the plans. If you build from the plans, pay particular attention to the leg assemblies. They really are the heart of the bench.

[Jim Koepke]

4. If you want to use a hand plane on stuff you are going to need a heavy bench. Or a big pile of concrete on the low shelf of a light bench. Just build what you can and then pile your anvil collection on the lower shelf.


The only quibble is the heavy bench part. A bench with a well designed base can be fairly light and not move.


A bench can be easily counterweighted at the base, or fixed to the floor (or wall).

The ability of a bench to remain rigid and not move is a recurring topic. In my case the difficulty was trying to join the edge of 8' boards on a 5' bench. This is a light weight bench. It has been very useful on many projects. The design is rather simple. It has served my needs well enough that my plans for building a bench are going to pretty much follow the basics provided by this bench.

A simple solution to correct the problems with my light bench was to add a 5 gallon bucket and a bag of cement to the tail end:

417412

The bench would often tip from the weight of planing to the end of the board.

Other folks used other methods to correct the same issues:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?119667

Before doing this my bench would walk or tip often in use. Since adding the bucket of cement it has been quite stable.

jtk

[Stew Denton]

Brian,

If cost is a factor, I have a suggestion that is cheap and is what I used years ago. It was a better bench than I have now, because my current bench is planks on sawhorses in the back yard, and the planks aren't very long. It was stable and solid and I emphasize again it was CHEAP.

We were remodeling our first house, and replacing the cheap cabinets. I took some of the old base cabinets down into the basement, put screws through one face frame into the next face frame to secure them together then used shims between the cabinets at the top and back to square them up. I think they totalled to about 7' long. Once they were soundly together, I cut a 3/4" piece of particle board in half lenthwise to make two pieces that were 2'X8'. I then glued them together to form a top 2'X8' by about 1.5" thick. I think I used nails maybe to act as clamps, and then nailed that to the old cabinets for a bench top. I worked on that "bench" for about 7 years if I recall. It had plenty of shortcomings, but was strong and a lot better than planks on sawhorses.

It was quite stable, strong, and REALLY CHEAP.

If I had it to do over I would have bought the particle board and maybe 2 sheets of 1/4"of masonite, and perhaps some plywood. I would have laminated a foot of plywood on the outside edges that overlapped the bench by about 4." Thus, I would have to cut one of the pieces of plywood about 8" narrower than the other piece to allow an 8" overlap of the plywood with on layer of the particle board.

It would take some shiming material of some sort to get the doubled plywood to the same thickness as the doubled particle board. I would not butt the plywood up against the particle board, rather I would overlap one piece of the ply over a few inches of the particle board to add strength to the top along the edge. I would also laminate the 1/4" masonite in the center of the plywood/particle board and then glue masonite to the top and bottom faces. I would then cut a 2X4 and mill a slot in it and would mill the plywood to form a tenon to fit into the 2X4 section as a tennen running lengthwise in the mortise of the 2X4. This would be sandwiched between the top and bottom pieces of the masonite. This would be the side of the top facing out and over the top of the cabinets to form a nice, non-splintering face to the top.

Thus, the top in the center of the bench top would be laminated as: masonite (bottom face), particle board, masonite, particle board, masonite. The transition between the center of the top and the edge would be laminated as: masonite, particle board, masonite, shim for correct thickness, plywood, and masonite. The outside laminated part of the top would be masonite, plywood/ shimming, plywood, masonite, plywood shimming, plywood, and masonite. The edge of the top would be: masonite/2X4 section cut to the correct thickness to fit, and masonite.

The overlap of the top past the old cabinets gives you something to clamp to, and if you choose to use 1X4 or 1X6 pine instead of the plywood, you could drill dog holes in that.

For edge planing clamp a couple 1' long sections of 4X4 to the ends of the bench top with the lumber to be edged standing up between then two 4X4s. You can clamp the outside ends of the 4X4s together around the upright board you are edge planing, so it won't move.

This is a very stable and solid set up, as I recall. It would not move. I should not move during planing. The old cabinets had 3/4" frames.

How to do this CHEAP: Check around by asking at lumber yards, who does kitchen remodelling. Ask them to let you know when they have to do a job replacing base cabinets, where the existing cabinets are fairly strongly made but look pretty sad, and the owner just wants to replace them with much nicer cabinets. You should be able to get the old ones for free just to haul them off, or for dirt cheap if they want some money from them.

Of course an alternative to the laminated top would be 2X8s laminated together or something similar.

This type of top can be pretty darn flat if you are careful. One way to get it pretty flat is to level the cabinets carefully as you screw them together, then do the lamination right on the cabinets. I nailed the laminated particle board to the cabinets if I remember correctly, and that worked fine, as the particle board will not hold a screw, so if you use screws you will want to counter sink a bit and go through the top, and down into the frames of the old cabinets.

If you have room, I would put the drawers facing to the back of the cabinets so you don't have to fight opening them to get tools underneath the overhanging top in the front and on the ends.

Just my 2 bits. At the time I did the bench that way because we had very little money at the time. Also, with a more servisable top, such as laminated 2X4 stock, it would be a cheap and yet serviable bench for several years.

egards,

Stew

[David E. Hutchins]

417427

I'm also new to woodworking but this is what I built just out of scrap lumber I had around

[ken hatch]

417427

I'm also new to woodworking but this is what I built just out of scrap lumber I had around

David,

Looks functional. My first woodworking workbench IIRC was built back in the '70's and was still in use in my shop uptil a couple of years ago. I replaced it with a small Moravian bench and moved it to the back garden where it now functions as a shabby chic grill work table. Long way around to, in twenty or more years that sucker may still be useable.

ken

[James Waldron]

417427

I'm also new to woodworking but this is what I built just out of scrap lumber I had around

Very nice start. Worth keeping around, maybe as a sharpening station or some such, when you decide you need/want a bigger bench. Should work well in the meantime.

Well done!

[Allen Read]

There are quite a few easy workbench builds on YouTube. Paul Sellers has a couple of good ones. Jay Bates has a pretty simple one that gets the job done. Rex Krueger has a low one that's sort of a modern, cheap imitation of a Roman Bench, but it's very cheap and easy to build.
This is only a small sampling of YouTube benches. You could spend a week or so just viewing bench making videos.

Like others have said, this may be your first bench, but likely not your last. Just build something simple and easy, then make notes for what you want for your next bench build. :)

Allen

[steven c newman]

IF you have ever seen my build alongs, you will have seen my bench...
417445
Main part was made in a Sunday afternoon, from Dumpster dive items....then a "pipe clamp" leg vise was added, then a end vise...and a crochet. Now has a shelf and cabinet underneath the top..

Been in use a LONG time......got tired of a 1 x 12 screwed to a pair of sawhorses...what is left of that mess, is a shelf to store tools and boxes on...

417446
This is a WORK BENCH, not a piece of furniture....every mark on it tells a story.

[Matt Lau]

I'd recommend starting with the Woodgears simple workbench.
https://woodgears.ca/workbench/build.html
Enjoy it a bit, and later make a better bench.

For workholding, you can drill dog holes and use a holdfast.
I really like the Lee Valley screwdown holdfast--secure, precise, and quiet.
You can also use the holdfast instead of a light-duty vise if you have dog holes for the front surface.

[Jim Koepke]

There are many ways to hold work without a vise:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?223428

A couple are mentioned there.

jtk

[ken hatch]

I've not mentioned building a Moravian bench as an easy first bench mostly because I would expect an eye roll and a "there he goes again" response. Problem is I've looked at and followed the links and with the exception of using Workmates and Matt Lau's link the Moravian bench is easier to build and an order of magnitude better in use than most. At the end of the day with a Moravian if your joints are not "perfect" it makes no never mind because the design will compensate. In fact the major joint, the long stretcher/base M/T must be loose.

Here is a link to a PDF of Will building his first Moravian bench https://eclecticmechanicals.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/themoravianworkbenchbywillmyers.pdf .






(https://eclecticmechanicals.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/themoravianworkbenchbywillmyers.pdf)

[ken hatch]

I had to split the post because the link function was messing up.

Here is a link to the Will Myers video:

https://store.woodandshop.com/product/dvd-building-the-moravian-workbench-will-myers/


(https://store.woodandshop.com/product/dvd-building-the-moravian-workbench-will-myers/)

[Brian Sommers]

I do have a bench that I've been using for my jewelry making (no this isn't your standard curved jeweler's bench) and it's something I bought off of Amazon.
It's steel adjustable frame with a 1-1/8" thick PARTICLE wood top.

My question is could I just use this? I'm concerned over a very short time that will shred on me, being particle board.

I did think of gluing a nice 3/4" birch plywood top on it and hang a 2x12 off the front and call it a day.

Would the particle board be ok or am I just asking for trouble?

[steven c newman]

Next trip into Columbus, OH along Rt 23 (High street), just north of Worthington, OH...there is a large Menard's store. They sell thick (1-1/2" or 2") hardwood benchtop planks....usually several types of wood styles...you may need help, carrying one out to the car/van/truck....might be worth the trip?

They are solid in that they are made up of 2 x 2 square "sticks", all glued up into a single panel...
They also sell 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 8' non-treated Pine posts...that one can cobble into a decent set of legs, add a 2 x6 for the stretchers....and maybe add a shelf, too...
day trip to Columbus....day or two to build the bench...by Monday, or Tuesday...be working away on a new bench.

[ken hatch]

I do have a bench that I've been using for my jewelry making (no this isn't your standard curved jeweler's bench) and it's something I bought off of Amazon.
It's steel adjustable frame with a 1-1/8" thick PARTICLE wood top.

My question is could I just use this? I'm concerned over a very short time that will shred on me, being particle board.

I did think of gluing a nice 3/4" birch plywood top on it and hang a 2x12 off the front and call it a day.

Would the particle board be ok or am I just asking for trouble?

Brian,

I went back and re-read your original post to make sure you want a woodworking bench. If I can read, sometimes a question, you do. If that is the case the short answer is yes you are asking for trouble. Any sheet goods for a top will not work as well as solid wood.

With a little thought and planning a very inexpensive bench can be built using construction grade wood, a bench that will work with you, not against and will last for years. Because I've built a few and worked on many benches it is easy to spot the weakness of many of the plans. The two that I think are the best for a first time builder are those from Mike Siemsen (The Naked Woodworker) and Will Myers (https://store.woodandshop.com/product/dvd-building-the-moravian-workbench-will-myers/).

ken

ken

[Brian Sommers]

I'll have to go with Mike's - I really love his vise-less methods.

Now what I could do is use my old bench as a glue up/assembly table.

[ken hatch]

I'll have to go with Mike's - I really love his vise-less methods.

Now what I could do is use my old bench as a glue up/assembly table.

Brian,

Good plan, you will end up with something you can live with and work on forever. Much better than just building a stopgap.

ken

[Nicholas Lawrence]

We just give you a hard time. The Siemsen style Nicholson is pretty easy to build. The advantage as I see it for someone who does not have a bench is that you can build it without a bench, and you can save a pretty good chunk of money not having to have a vise.


I've not mentioned building a Moravian bench as an easy first bench mostly because I would expect an eye roll and a "there he goes again" response. Problem is I've looked at and followed the links and with the exception of using Workmates and Matt Lau's link the Moravian bench is easier to build and an order of magnitude better in use than most. At the end of the day with a Moravian if your joints are not "perfect" it makes no never mind because the design will compensate. In fact the major joint, the long stretcher/base M/T must be loose.

Here is a link to a PDF of Will building his first Moravian bench https://eclecticmechanicals.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/themoravianworkbenchbywillmyers.pdf .

(https://eclecticmechanicals.files.wordpress.com/2018/08/themoravianworkbenchbywillmyers.pdf)