Forstner Bit Set, Help me spend my money

[Lisa Starr]

Hi all,

I'd like to purchase a set of Forstner Drill Bits and would like you thoughts and experiences.

Ideally, I'd like a 14 or 16 pc set of Fractional Sizes and spend no more than $150.00. I've watched videos and read a fair amount, but what do I want? Saw-tooth, Wavy Edge, Smooth Edge, Bormax...the configurations seem to go on forever. I'll be using these primarily general woodworking.

Would you offer your experiences with particular brands? Styles?

Thanks
Lisa
:confused:

[Ray Newman]

About30 years ago, I bought a Forstner Bit Set. Soon found that I regularly used 3 or 4 bits, the rest just sat in the box and this still holds true today. If I was doing it over, I would buy the bits as I need them and buy a better quality.

[Frank Pratt]

The ones sold by Lee Valley are very good. They are HSS rather than carbon steel, which most are made of. The HSS is far more resistant to heat damage. The saw tooth bits they sell seem to cut as smooth a hole as smooth edge and they cut much faster, with less feed pressure.

[jack duren]

Even AMANA will be about $170. Maybe Freud will be cheaper. As mentioned you really don't use them as much as you would think..

[Mike Henderson]

The problem with buying individual Forstner bits is where to store them. When you buy a set you usually get a box that they fit into. (Of course, I suppose you could make a box).

That said, I bought a set of Freud and have been happy with them. I replaced a couple of them - the ones I use the most - with Famag Forstner bits. As others have said, there's usually a few that you use the most, but it's a pain to have a situation where you need a specific size and don't have it. I even extended my set to sizes in 16ths.

Unless you're going to use them a whole lot, I'd just buy the standard ones (without the teeth).

Mike

[Prashun Patel]

I like my Veritas's. I bought their standard imperial set. Comes with a box.

I also very much like having a set of brad point bits. When the depth of the hole exceeds the depth of the forstner, I find it useful to start the hole with the forstner, then waste some of the interior with a brad point, and then complete with the forstner. It reduces the effort and heat on the bit.

[Mark Hockenberg]

Lisa - I second Ray's experience and recommendation. I have a large set that I picked up along the way. In the last 15 years I've used at most three of the bits. I would go for good quality and buy what you need when you need it. You can make a nice box from your fall to store them...

Cheers,
Mark

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Step 1: Determine how much you are willing to spend.

Step 2: Metric or Imperial

Step 3: Determine how many you really need.


This is a decent set for under $120
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/102815-set-of-13-imperial-hss-forstner-bits-with-wooden-box

Assume that you go all in and purchase this 29 piece set for almost $500

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/102817-set-of-29-imperial-hss-forstner-and-saw-tooth-bits-with-wooden-boxes

Then, you realize that you need to install a hing that requires a metric hole.

You also might consider a less expensive set and then add in the bits that you find that you actually use or need and you can use the cheaper bits for the one off cuts that you make. My first set was a Bosch set, not that those are cheap, but then I added to them. The drawback is that I cannot put in any extra bits I bought later into the same container.

[Edwin Santos]

Whichever set you get, I recommend spending a few dollars on the flat and round DMT handheld hones and learn to hone them yourself. I found it is the nature of Forstner bits that they will dull quickly. Courtesy of a YouTube video I learned to sharpen them myself. Make a v block to hold the shaft in a vise. It is surprisingly easy and only takes a minute or so and the bit will be cutting shavings again.

I have found the standard Forstner is a little easier to hone than the sawtooth and wave styles.

In my case I'm glad I got a complete set. I find myself reaching for odd sizes from time to time. It's nice to have them at the ready when you need them.

[Jamie Buxton]

+1 on learning to sharpen your forstners. They do work much better when they’re sharp.

[Rob Luter]

I bought these several years ago. I’ve never been disappointed

417379 417382

About $50.

[Derek Cohen]

I went through this recently. For longevity and quality of cut, Colt Maxicut got the nod. Just in the sizes more used (or likely to be used). I also researched the ease of sharpening and, as Edwin recommended, restocked a range of diamond mini cards and hones, along with ceramic rods for inside curved bevels. Frequent sharpening - keeping the bits sharp - is a key to longevity and performance. The steel and wood will burn if they are allowed to dull. Pitch is easily removed with Simple Green.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Cutler]

Lisa

I have a set by W.L. Fuller of Warwick RI. All they make are drill bits and cutters.
Not to sound judgemental, but do you have a drill press that can run Forstner bits? Forstner bits require low speeds on drill presses. Once the bits get over an 3/4" in diameter the drill press needs to slow way down. I would want a drill press that could go down to <250 rpm.
W.L. Fuller makes nice tools. THey have an online catalog, and they are very knowledgeable over the phone. You could probably spec your own set from their catalog.

[Mike Henderson]

Here's a couple of pictures of the Freud bits I bought, just FYI. It's been a long time so I don't remember what I paid for them.

I'm not suggesting this to you but I have additional Forstner bits - a set of metric and a set of cheap really big Forstners that rarely get used but when I need one they're nice to have.

Mike

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[Jim Becker]

My imperial set was a house brand from the long-defunct Woodworker's Warehouse chain..."Carbtec" I think is the name. They perform fine as I don't drill all that many large holes and even less now that I have the CNC. My metric set is Fisch and they are way, way nicer than the other set, although it's a smaller range. Again, I don't use them much, but they cut crispy-clean. Speaking of clean...that and the occasional sharpening that's already been mentioned makes a big difference. And if you do fine yourself using a particular size a lot, go ahead any buy a higher quality single unit.

[Bill Boehme]

Generally speaking, it is advisable to buy individual Forstner bits rather than a set. The bits in a set are usually of lower quality that won't hold an edge well. There are exceptions such as Freud, Fisch, and Colt, however a set of high quality Forstner bits is likely to be expensive. My favorite are Colt bits ... they stay sharp for a long time if they aren't abused and they are easy to sharpen with a diamond card.

[Brian Holcombe]

I like Bormax, they're clean cutting and seem to have a fairly long life. I resharpen mine with a file.

[Ted Calver]

Another Bormax fan. Expensive, but IMHO well worth it. I bought individual bits as my projects demanded and ended up with almost a full set. Also have some colts that I use for drilling end grain pepper mills etc..

[Mark Daily]

Lisa, I recently bought a few Freud “precision shear” bits with serrated edges. They cut much faster and cleaner than their “regular” bits- I was really surprised at the difference.

(Freud 4 Pcs. Precision Shear Forstner Bit Set (PB-104) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TUFYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zKlNDbS9C2K4E)

Like many others, I bought a 16 pc set years ago (house brand from I don’t remember where) and have never used all of them. I primarily use 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 3/4”, 1”, and 1-3/8” (for European hinge cups).

I think you would be better off buying the sizes you know you will use and adding more when you need them. As others have said I think the individual bits are better quality than the sets.

[andy bessette]

I have 2 sets; 1 is Freud; both work well; both have the smooth cutting rim--not toothed or wavy. And I have used every size. It is well worth having the whole set from 1/4" - over 2" (don't recall the largest size). Most often used in a drill press, they still work fine in a drill motor for certain tasks.

[Bill Dufour]

I recommend a hex shank. I use machinist piloted counterbores for odd sized holes if they happen to be the correct size. Pretty easy with replaceable pilots to fit the hole size needed.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Hi all,

I'd like to purchase a set of Forstner Drill Bits and would like you thoughts and experiences.

Ideally, I'd like a 14 or 16 pc set of Fractional Sizes and spend no more than $150.00. I've watched videos and read a fair amount, but what do I want? Saw-tooth, Wavy Edge, Smooth Edge, Bormax...the configurations seem to go on forever. I'll be using these primarily general woodworking.

Would you offer your experiences with particular brands? Styles?

Thanks
Lisa
:confused:

As almost everything, there is not a such thing as "right approach" for all.

I purchased my first Forstner bit 25+ years ago. It was a 35 mm for European hinges I used a lot. Carbide tipped and very good quality. It is like new even after all those moons!

Past year I finally had courage to purchase a full set of them but I did not have no special application for them - I looked them "just in case". As I did not have a specific application I purchased a Chinese set of 16 bits for USD 25. As an Engineer, I really appreciate high quality tools but I could not justify to put serious money in something I would barely use. These bits are better than expected for slightly above USD 1 each and came in a good plastic case to store them!

Bottom line: if you have a specific need, go to the best quality for the requirements. If you want to have "just in case", try a cheaper set at a reasonable quality.

[Lisa Starr]

Thank you all very much for the info. I think I'm going to pursue purchasing a smaller set (7 pc?) first and just a couple of larger ones is sizes I know I'll use frequently.

Mike - Yes, I have a old Rockwell 15" Drill Press that was purchased new for a machine shop long ago, hence slower speeds than the "wood working" version. I actually have both sets of stepped pulleys so with some effort I can change from "low speed" to "high speed".

[Vince Shriver]

The problem with buying individual Forstner bits is where to store them. When you buy a set you usually get a box that they fit into. (Of course, I suppose you could make a box).

That said, I bought a set of Freud and have been happy with them. I replaced a couple of them - the ones I use the most - with Famag Forstner bits. As others have said, there's usually a few that you use the most, but it's a pain to have a situation where you need a specific size and don't have it. I even extended my set to sizes in 16ths.

Unless you're going to use them a whole lot, I'd just buy the standard ones (without the teeth).

Mike

+1 Famag (excellent and pricey)

[Clark Hussey]

I bought a cheap Rioby set under $30.00. Mainly to see which bits I use. I upgrade them as was said above with better bits as they need to be replaced.

[Ben Rivel]

Another vote for the Lee Valley sets. Had mine for a few years now and they’ve been awesome!

[Sam Puhalovich]

Core-out first. You'll dramatically improve how long the forstner bits stay sharp and how well they perform by first coring-out the hole. The small holes can be cored-out with brad-point bits ... use hole-saws for the larger sizes.

[Ole Anderson]

I bought a no-name cheap set of forstner bits at a WW show. They have served me well, except they are prone to corrosion, TIN coating would be nice. Most don't get used, but they are there so if I need one now, I don't have to go out and look for one at a store on online.

[Curt Harms]

Step 1: Determine how much you are willing to spend.

Step 2: Metric or Imperial

Step 3: Determine how many you really need.
...............................................
You also might consider a less expensive set and then add in the bits that you find that you actually use or need and you can use the cheaper bits for the one off cuts that you make. My first set was a Bosch set, not that those are cheap, but then I added to them. The drawback is that I cannot put in any extra bits I bought later into the same container.

That's probably the approach I'd take, similar to the way I buy router bits.

[Pete Staehling]

Lots of possible answers and none are universally right for all.

I kind of like having a cheap set so I have all the sizes I might want once in a blue moon and can sharpen the ones I might rarely use with every few uses if necessary. Even a cheap HF set might suffice. Then I buy quality ones like Freud in the few sizes I really need and use frequently.

Btw, I also found that I use a set of quality brad point bits for a lot of things that I used to use the smaller forstner bits for.

[Pete Staehling]

The problem with buying individual Forstner bits is where to store them. When you buy a set you usually get a box that they fit into. (Of course, I suppose you could make a box).
Depending on how much you use them one (or two if necessary) of those magnetic strips might be a good way to hold them and have them accessible.