Suggestions for removing the slop from my grizzly sliding table attachment

[Günter VögelBerg]

I have the cabinet saw add-on sliding table attachment that Grizzly sells and the problem I have is that there is a lot of slop that requires I use a square to reset it to 90 (or get any precise angle, really). It varies by about .5 degree. I have to square it up before tightening the handles. If I keep the miter bar tight there is less slop, but not much. I took apart the spring loaded stop mechanism and I did not see an easy way forward to improve that, but I am not convinced that is the only culprit. Anyone had this issue?

I like the capacity the attachment gives, but for preside angles it is easier to just use my old incra miter gauge, defeating the added capacity. Attached photos show the general setup and the two extremes I get while set at 90 degrees and the handles loosened.

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[Tom Trees]

I can't see pictures, but suggest a stout mobile base would probably be the answer.
It was with my Startrite DS275, which has a flimsy sheet metal base.
Before that, I noticed the fence rail on my sliding table grind to a halt because of the uneven floor.

Tom

[Günter VögelBerg]

Thanks for the input, but I don't think that's it. The problem is how the miter gauge locks in the angle. I took it off the saw and set it up on my bench and had the same problem.

[Jamie Buxton]

I'm not seeing the difference between the first two photos.
Does the .5 degrees happen because the table turns? Or is it because there's left-right slop along the whole table, and if you push it left at the near end and right at the far end, you see the .5 degrees?

[Günter VögelBerg]

I engage the lock at 90, tighten the bar into the miter track but do not tighten the two knurled handles on top. With those handles loose I can move the fence in a pivot of about .5 degrees to the left or right with no way of knowing when I am actually at 90, so I have the ability to tighten the knurled handles with a .5 degree error either way.

[Ray Newman]

I had a similar situation with the SawStop small sliding table on my SawStop ICS.

What I did was adapt an INCRA 1000SE miter gauge with the 36-64" telescoping flip fence for use on the SawStop sliding table. I removed the miter head bar from the SawStop sliding table miter head, then I took the INCRA miter gauge bar and the SawStop bar to a local machine shop for locating/measuring, drilling and tapping the SawStop bar to accommodate the INCRA miter gauge. I now have repeatable settings and easy return to 90 degrees.

[Bob Potter]

I have the same sliding table and love it. But there is slop in the detents. I use a small square to get it set at 90. I posted about his before and am planning to put a flip stop on the extension table on the left side of the slider. Once the flip stop has been set you should be able to go back to 90 every time the fence is removed or changed.I have been planing on doing this for a long time but keep putting it off for no good reason but being lazy. This would not solve the problem for other settings.
Hope this helps, Bob

[David Buchhauser]

I engage the lock at 90, tighten the bar into the miter track but do not tighten the two knurled handles on top. With those handles loose I can move the fence in a pivot of about .5 degrees to the left or right with no way of knowing when I am actually at 90, so I have the ability to tighten the knurled handles with a .5 degree error either way.

Hi Gunter,
I have the same Grizzly sliding attachment on my table saw. The Grizzly miter gauge on this attachment is pretty much worthless. The mechanism is just a bad design and poorly executed. I set the miter fence to 90 degrees to the blade with a precision square and lock it down. Then I attach the Incra Miter5000 sled to the slider for precision angular cuts.
David

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[Günter VögelBerg]

David, that's quite the setup. I actually have a good incra miter gauge and could do that, but truthfully I rarely use my table saw for anything other than a 90. I usually use my miter saw for angles. My biggest frustration is that I have to re-set the 90 every time I take the miter gauge off to allow for rip cuts.

I am wondering if I could have someone machine a new stop pin for me that has a tighter tolerance. Or I could convince my wife I need a metal lathe...