Grinder set up for sharpening lathe tools

[Art Dilione]

Guys,
This is a great forum that I've lurked on for a while. I'm just getting into wood turning as a retirement hobby. Did a search on grinders and attachments and while I've digested a lot of these posts and responses, I'm still at a loss in a starting setup. So please bear with me as I've got a series of questions that will hopefully with your help and responses, lead me in the right direction.

First question is in regards to grinder speed: Some say 3400 rpm is ok others say go 1800-2000. My understanding is that either will work but the slower speed is more forgiving. I have three 3400 ppm grinders but am willing to get a slower one if it will be better in the long run.

Second question is regarding the actual grinder: Standard grinder with slow speed or wet grinder. I'm looking at either the Rincon 1 hp 1700 rpm standard grinder and either the Rincon 82-100 8" wet sharpener or the Wen BG9910 10-Inch Variable-Torque Water Cooled Wet and Dry Sharpening System. I know both will work but since they're relatively close in cost, any pros or cons with these grinders or recommendations based on your use?

My other problem is that I live in an area with no real wood turning as I live in a rural area of SW Colorado, 5.5 hours from Denver so a trip to Rocker or others is an extended trip. Any info or guidance would be greatly appreciated in getting this rookie pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance,
Art Dilione

[tom lucas]

You can do everything with grinders you have. Just don't overheat the tools. The slower grinders help a lot with that.

I have a 3400, a 1750, and a tormek wet. I'm also a new turner. I quickly realized that I needed to be able to sharpen quickly and easily. So, I invested in a 1750 with CBN wheels and a oneway sharpening jig. One of the advantages of the CBNs is that they do not get smaller with use. I use the wet grinder for skews, knives, and other more delicate tools. The other use for turning is my tormek has leather strop wheels. I use it to remove the burr on gouges. My 3400 is reserved for carbon steel stuff, like lawn mower blades.

So you don't need anything, save maybe good rests or jigs. But if you want the "best" and easiest, a 1750 with CBNs is the way to go. The wet grinders are good for sharpening but painfully slow if you are putting a new grind on a tool.

Buy off the internet. I never go to a store.

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

While a half-speed grinder is nice, I think your choice of wheels and tool rests/jigs is more important. I would probably start with one of the grinders that you have now, but get at least one CBN wheel (180 if only one, otherwise an 80 and a 180), and the Oneway Wolverine jig kit (or similar). If you are really hankering to get a new grinder, then yes an 8" half-speed grinder like a Rikon.... WoodturnersWonders.com sells a grinder with CBN wheels package, others may also. I don't think you need a wet grinding system, at least not to start.

[Eric Danstrom]

If funds aren't an issue I'd get the 8" 1hp 1750rpm grinder and a pair of CBN wheels. Then a fancy jig to hold the tool. The slow speed wet grinders seem to be favored by hand tool users for plane blades and hand chisels. Kinda slow and expensive for what they do.

I'm using a 8" 1/2hp 1750rpm grinder with the original white wheels and I free hand my gouges and parting tools. I really appreciate the slower speed. For years I ran a 6" 3400rpm with a white wheel and it worked but 8"/1750rpm is better. Save the high speed grinder for mower blades and the like.

For skews I have a Veritas grinder tool rest and jig. It also works for resetting hand chisels and plane blades angles. Once I put some wear on the white wheels I'll spring for the CBN wheels. They're much better but I'm a little short and there's other things I need more.

When I window shop CBN wheels I see there's lots of options. I like the ones that have a 1" edge on the side. Excellent for other uses such as knives. You'll need to decide which grits. The higher numbers (600 and up) seem to be the purvey of turners, more polishing than grinding, very slow.

[roger wiegand]

I recently upgraded to a Rikon 8" 1800 rpm grinder and CBN wheel and am extremely happy with it. After fussing with swapping jigs for a while I decided to buy a second wheel (both are 180 grit) setting up one side with the Wolverine jig for my bowl gouge and the other with a Roborest for most everything else. I haven't felt the need for either higher or lower grits for turning tools, I don't often reshape a tool in a major way. The old Sears grinder is still around for lawn mower blades and rough shaping.

[Art Dilione]

Tom,
Appreciate the info and advice. Overheating with the higher rpm is one of the issues I read as a negative if you're not careful. Being a newbie, I'll probably screw the temper on at least one! I was looking at the oneway wolverine system as well. I'm old school in that I'd like to touch and see what I'm getting before but that's harder now that I live more remote.
Art

[Art Dilione]

Tim,
Thanks for the response. I was looking at the Oneway Wolverine so appreciate that suggestion. Will look at WoodturnersWonders.com.

[Art Dilione]

Eric,
Really appreciate all the different info you provided. General consensus appears to be that the wet grinders are for more flatter tool sharpening. Any particular brands of CBN wheels to stay away from or go to?
Art

[Art Dilione]

Roger,
Thanks for the positive response for the Rikon. Do you have the 1/2 or 1 hp model? What grit was your first CBN? 80? Did you get a package deal with the grinder and CBN wheels or did you purchase the wheels separately? Which brand CBN do you have?
Thanks,
Art

[Richard Coers]

Let's see, we have folks say 3400, 1750, 1800, and 2000rpm. Unless there is some real oddball grinders, they are 3450 and 1725rpm. As mentioned, grinding wheels are most critical. Grinders used to come with some junk wheels that were barely able to grind a mower blade without overheating it. Now which setup to use; If you go at it ham-handed, you will need 1725rpm. If you have a friable grinding wheel, know how to dress it, know how to use a feather touch and let the grinding wheel do the cutting, and have a jig to bring it back to the same angle every time, 3450rpm is fine. Sharpening is no different that any other shop task, it takes patience and practice to do it well. No magic bullet for brilliant sharpening every time. White aluminum oxide wheels are fine if you get a diamond dresser and know how to use it. Seeded gel grinding wheels are better, and CBN wheels are for folks with money and are lazy about dressing the wheels.

[John Keeton]

...and CBN wheels are for folks with money and are lazy about dressing the wheels.Or, those that enjoy an excellent system that produces a fine edge quickly on wheels that last years without changing diameter. Ken Rizza is great to deal with. I would recommend the 1 hp Rikon with a 180 and a 600. I bought my first 180 CBN several years ago and bought the Rikon and the 600 last year. I really like having both grits.

[Richard Coers]

Or, those that enjoy an excellent system that produces a fine edge quickly on wheels that last years without changing diameter. Ken Rizza is great to deal with. I would recommend the 1 hp Rikon with a 180 and a 600. I bought my first 180 CBN several years ago and bought the Rikon and the 600 last year. I really like having both grits.
I agree that a CBN is wonderful, but didn't have one for the first 30 years of my turning. But around $600 is a big bite for a beginner. $400+ to Rizza, and another $140+ for the Wolverine sharpening system.

[roger wiegand]

I bought the 1hp on a really good sale at woodcraft. Both my wheels are 180 grit, both the same from WoodturnersWonders with the grit on the face as well as the edge, it's come in handy a few times. For me having both the Wolverine and a platform jig always available without changeover is more important than different grits. Major reshaping of tools is something I do only rarely, whereas I'm continually needing to sharpen both the bowl gouge and scrapers. For skews I have no problem honing directly from the 180 grit, every other tool is used directly off the grinder.

I didn't run across the package deal before buying the grinder, otherwise I might have gone that route. --if nothing else to avoid having the pile of extra parts left over from conversion.



Roger,
Thanks for the positive response for the Rikon. Do you have the 1/2 or 1 hp model? What grit was your first CBN? 80? Did you get a package deal with the grinder and CBN wheels or did you purchase the wheels separately? Which brand CBN do you have?
Thanks,
Art

[Eric Danstrom]

...CBN wheels are for folks with money and are lazy about dressing the wheels.

News flash: some folks have more money than other folks. Just because some folks can't afford $600 for a sharpening set-up doesn't mean people that can afford $600 shouldn't purchase things less well off folks can't afford.


...I didn't run across the package deal before buying the grinder, otherwise I might have gone that route. --if nothing else to avoid having the pile of extra parts left over from conversion.

That another reason I haven't sprung for CBN yet. I'm tired of throwing away perfectly good stuff because I want better stuff. I'm going to use my white wheels for a couple of years before I upgrade.

[Richard Coers]

News flash: some folks have more money than other folks. Just because some folks can't afford $600 for a sharpening set-up doesn't mean people that can afford $600 shouldn't purchase things less well off folks can't afford.



That another reason I haven't sprung for CBN yet. I'm tired of throwing away perfectly good stuff because I want better stuff. I'm going to use my white wheels for a couple of years before I upgrade.

Did I say don't buy one? I had no idea people were sensitive to grinding wheel ownership! Like I told John, for my first 30 years of turning, I did without a CBN wheel. Actually for some years I turned without a 4 jaw chuck because they hadn't been invented for real woodturning. Just smooth jaws for metal work were available. I still consider a CBN wheel as a luxury item, even though I own one. The real reason I own one is that my turning is a part time business and I try to keep profits to a minimum each year for taxes. When I do well I buy something like a Sawstop. When I don't do so well, I buy a CBN wheel and another chuck. But you can buy all the CBN wheels you like Eric, I won't think lesser of you.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I do have a bunch of videos up on You Tube, mostly geared to turning bowls, but several on sharpening and grinder systems. CBN wheels do cost more, but they are a far better value than standard friable wheels. If nothing else, you can get finer grit wheels which means you waste a lot less tool metal. You get a LOT more for your money. They are also 1 1/2 inches wide, well most of them are. I will never go back to 1 inch wide wheels again. Maybe not important to a hobby turner, but necessary to a production turner. For grinders, the 1 hp Rikon is a good deal for the money. One set of CBN wheels will outlast many sets of standard grinding wheels, and you don't have to clean them, true them up, and they will never break apart. You get a grinder with lots of power, and pretty good quality. There are a number of 'true' 3/4 hp grinders out there as well. The Rikon do go on sale, so watch for it. I don't consider the 1/2 hp Rikon to have enough muscle for heavy duty use, or enough power to run 'properly' and handle the weight of the CBN wheels. You don't need all sorts of jigs for sharpening, as a platform works for every thing, but they take a little more time to learn how to sharpen properly.

robo hippy