Should I buy a jointer or a bandsaw, and maybe a jigsaw?

[Paul F Mills]

Sorry for the long post, but I am trying to provide all the data I can think of that will help you help me.


I am trying to decide on my next purchase and if I really need to make one. The primary tools up for consideration are a bandsaw and a jointer, with a jigsaw a possibility. A quick background on what I have now and would be replacing:




I have an old Craftsman 4” jointer that my dad gave me. I have only used it a few times due to its width and bed length.
I have an old Craftsman bandsaw that my dad gave me, I use it more than the jointer but the opening is only about 4” and the blade comes off all the time. The tires were new two years ago and it has not been used enough to wear them out.
I have an old Craftsman jigsaw that is way underpowered. I tried cutting some 1.5” pine this weekend, crosscut and rip. It struggled, chamfered the cuts, would not hold a line (there is actually rotational play in the blade) and I broke three blades. I am sure some of this is my fault.



Jointer needs
I have a 735x planer and use a sled with shims to face joint wood, then flip the piece to flatten the other side. Then I use a different sled on the table saw or my track saw to joint the edge and the tablesaw and fence for the other edge. With those two sleds and three pieces of equipment, I can joint most stuff adequately.


I have a bunch of 5”x18”x3/4” sycamore that needs to be jointed for boxes. I have done some with the planer sled and it is a pain. I could cut it narrower and run it through the jointer I have, but then I am wasting wood.


I have a router flattening sled for bigger pieces.

Would a jointer really be beneficial over my current methods? When I buy one, I am going to do as I usually do and cry once and get an 8”. Likely purchase is a Powermatic with straight blades with the intent to upgrade to helical later.


Bandsaw needs
I do not use the bandsaw or jigsaw a lot due to frustration with them but I have a few chair builds coming up that I will need a bandsaw and/or jigsaw so I can make the templates and then do the rough sizing before routing with the template. Could I do this adequately with a good jigsaw and save money and space not buying a bandsaw?

I am also getting ready to build a bedside table and the three drawers will be made from a single slab so they have continuous grain, so I will need to resaw the drawer fronts. I could do it on the table saw by running the piece through, flipping it, and running it through again, but would the bandsaw really be better?

I would like to start making bandsaw boxes, but that it less of a concern right now, I just think they are neat.

Likely purchase is a Laguna or Jet with 12” resaw capacity and/or a Festool 420.


I am a hobbyist so none of this is really needed. But I have free time and disposable cash; and I have gotten a lot more use out of the tools I have bought over the last year than I thought I would. I have been bitten by the woodworking bug and have made some cool pieces and want to continue. One thing for me is that if I have the tools to make it easier, I enjoy it more. That is not to say that I do not enjoy making things work the hard way. I have after-all made good use of the various sleds I have and it brings me joy to take a warped slab and flatten it.

I also have the option of joining the woodworkers guild and using their equipment. The issue is the hours they are open and that it is a 30-45 minute drive each way. If they were still in their old location, about 5 minutes away, I would join quick.

So given the above data, which tool would you say I would be better served buying in the next few months? Any strong feelings on the brands? I know which way I am leaning, but want the more experienced makers here to advise.


Thanks

[Matthew Hills]

What do you use for your workbench right now?

If you routinely need to mill your project stock, the jointer is a time-saver. Since you already have another technique for this, you have a good feel for what is involved. With a jointer, this would be pretty straightforward, at the cost of some floorspace and the opportunity cost of another possible tool now. Your choice if that has value. I've also found a handplane to be useful for face jointing if too wide for jointer/planer. I still like a jointer for routine stock prep.

Your current bandsaw should not be throwing blades -- are you sure it isn't the setup? Might be worth figuring out, as bandsaw tuning skills will be useful with a future bandsaw, as well. A larger bandsaw will buy you capacity. I don't think I'd try to do chairs with a jigsaw -- seems like your current bandsaw would have similar capacity, no?

Matt

[Mike Kees]

You stated that you have a planer and table saw already. I would buy a jointer next,then you have the three basic machines needed for solid wood stock prep. If funds allow a bandsaw would be next,if the jointer depleted the cash reserves then a jigsaw could fill in to accomplish some of what a bandsaw does until the cash is available for a bandsaw.Buying used tools would stretch your buying power dramatically.

[Doug Dawson]

You stated that you have a planer and table saw already. I would buy a jointer next,then you have the three basic machines needed for solid wood stock prep. If funds allow a bandsaw would be next,if the jointer depleted the cash reserves then a jigsaw could fill in to accomplish some of what a bandsaw does until the cash is available for a bandsaw.Buying used tools would stretch your buying power dramatically.

The jigsaw is not a serious tool for fine woodworking. Even the best of them (Bosch) have issues with tracking over longer cuts, plus the dust collection is poor no matter how you slice it. A decent bandsaw is invaluable, and it would be the first tool I'd buy. Used is your friend, if you have the means to transport it. Get something good, and only cry once.

A jointer would be the next purchase, if you're totally opposed to hand planes (which you shouldn't be.) People talk up sizes wider than 8", but when I get a board wider than that, I just rip it and rejoin it (which has the advantage of increased stability, and the difference in figure matching is IMO negligible.)

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I had a Ridgid bandsaw that I could never get set up to cut well. Finally I bought a Rikon a professional bandsaw and it’s a dream to use. Get a good bandsaw and you will be amazed and probably won’t need a jigsaw unless you need to do inside cuts and very intricate stuff. Go with a 220v saw if you can wire for it.

Get a jointer, and get the widest bed you can afford. It will make things a lot easier for you.

[Charles P. Wright]

I have a Festool jigsaw and it is far better than the Ryobi it replaced, but even my tiny Ryobi benchtop bandsaw would be better for following patterns, etc. Its just much easier for some things to have the tool solidly in place, and there is very little vibration with the bandsaw compared to the oscillating motion of a jig saw. It sounds like your bandsaw has setup problems, but I'm not sure how much you want to futz around with trying to tune it.

My "vote" would be either a bandsaw or jointer, depending on which one you are more frustrated with. Having your tools work well for you definitely makes the hobby more enjoyable.

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

Obviously you should upgrade all three tools, jointer, bandsaw, and jigsaw -- but your question is which one to upgrade first....

It may be that the issues you are having with your current bandsaw are "fixable" by proper tuning of the saw. Throwing of blades seems likely due to the tension and tracking adjustments, rather than tires. Optimizing the adjustment of the blade guides both above and below the table can make a big difference in the saw's performance as well. A nice new sharp blade can also make a huge difference! So my first step would be to make sure that the bandsaw is appropriately tuned. Now it may be that there are structural problems with the saw that making tuning (or holding tune) impossible, in which case upgrading to a better saw would be the next step (and would address your capacity desire as well).

It sounds like you have other options for face jointing boards -- your current 4" jointer should still be useful in edge jointing those boards (although certainly longer tables help with longer boards). There is also a lot that could be accomplished with a decent workbench and a few sharp hand planes.

Some of the issues you describe with your jigsaw I think are endemic to jigsaws generally, which is why others have suggested that jigsaws have little role in fine woodworking. That said, I do find many uses for my jigsaw (including cutting metal).

So all this said, I would first look into trying to tune your current bandsaw, and if that didn't work out, probably upgrade the bandsaw first. If you can tune your current bandsaw to get acceptable performance out of it, then I would invest in an upgraded jointer first. A new jigsaw is not the same scale investment as the above stationary tools, so buy a new one of those whenever you decide that a jigsaw is the best solution to a particular project problem (need for portability, workpiece too big to manipulate through a bandsaw, need to cut an inside opening in a piece, etc...)

[Jim Becker]

The band saw and the jig saw are complimentary tools. I use both, although the band saw gets used more often. I could not be without my jointer and have a J/P combo that provides me with jointing width capability equal to thicknessing width capability. So if the three tools you mention, you need to ascertain which is going to have the biggest impact on the work you are doing "now". Ultimately, all three tools will likely benefit you, however. Were it me, I'd get my "basic milling" capability in order and probably opt for the jointer unless there was a compelling case for the bandsaw for immediate work. They sled for flattening on the planer is certainly effective and you may still need to use it unless you buy a jointer that's as wide as your planer, but being able to easily go through the best practice of flattening before thicknessing as well as having quality edges perpendicular to the faces will make your joinery jump a notch. In fact, consider a quality J/P combo seriously as a replacement for both the tiny jointer and the lunchbox thicknesser...the best of "wide" combined with efficient space utilization.

[John TenEyck]

I built a lot of stuff when I first started out with a Sears TS, a router with some bits, a handheld jigsaw, and basic handtools. I was limited to S2S for stock, however, so the next machine I bought was a 10" J/P. Game changer. The bandsaw didn't come until years later. Being able to buy rough lumber saved me a ton of money and allowed me to produce parts of any thickness needed for my work, easily and efficiently. A chair maker would benefit more from a bandsaw over a jointer, but that's not me.

Buy used if machines are available in your area. Above all, buy the widest bed jointer you can find that will fit into your shop. 8" would be the minimum IMO. Brand is nearly irrelevant. And I wouldn't shy away from a good used jointer with straight knives over lusting over a new machine with a segmented head. Sure, they are nice, and the guy selling you his perfectly good used straight knife machiine just to have one will be the one taking the hit to have one that won't cut wood any flatter or straighter.

John

[Matt Day]

Jointer then Bandsaw. But used.

[Patrick Kane]

Your last statement is something i echo a lot. I have a relatively nicely equipped shop, and people always comment about the money i have tied up in the place. Creating something gave me just as much satisfaction back then as it does now, but its safer, cleaner, and much easier to achieve that satisfaction today because of the tools i have. However, i always remember a saying from my highschool golf coach when i think abut tools--it's the Indian, no the arrow. Although, i should contact him and have him change it to 'Native American', that is if hes still alive.

I cant imagine a world where i didnt have a quality jointer. Its just the bedrock to so many fundamental references later on in a build. Your process works, im sure, but you are spending 20-30 mins to do something a jointer would do in roughly 30-45 seconds. However, for building chairs like you want to, a jointer might not be the most useful allocation of your funds. Im neck deep in a sculpted rocker/maloof rocker build, and my italian 20" jointer was fired up a couple times early on for the seat, and thats about it. 90% of my time has been at the bandsaw and the bench with grinders and hand tools. I dont know what style chair you have in mind, but the bandsaw is critical for a lot of chair parts.

I missed it, what is your budget? You mentioned an 8" PM, which runs you about $2,000+/-, right? in the Pittsburgh used market i could get an 8" jointer and 18-20" bandsaw for that budget. If your budget is less, i might consider splitting the baby and getting a used 6" jointer(usually in the $300 range), and the ubiquitous 14" cast iron frame bandsaw($400 range). I didnt care much for the 14" jet i had, but im sure it would be a dream compared to your current craftsman, which sounds like a headache and not a bandsaw.

Save your money on the jigsaw. I dont find it to be that useful of a tool.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, in my opinion the best bang for your buck would be a used 12" jointer/planer.

Regards, Rod.

[Prashun Patel]

For chairs the bandsaw will be invaluable.

But ultimately I would get a jointer. Get. 6” used in from clist. Then upgrade later when you can appreciate it for what it will cost. For now a 6” will Be a low cost, huge upgrade to your current system for most of your work.

[Patrick Kane]

For chairs the bandsaw will be invaluable.

But ultimately I would get a jointer. Get. 6” used in from clist. Then upgrade later when you can appreciate it for what it will cost. For now a 6” will Be a low cost, huge upgrade to your current system for most of your work.

This is the point i was trying to make dependent on budget. There is nothing wrong with a 6" jointer! I could probably make most projects with a 6" machine. It wouldnt be as fast, or as enjoyable, or as safe, but i could do a lot with a 6" machine. Also, i had a 735 for awhile, and that planer is plenty capable of making furniture. I see it in more than a few "pro" shops from time to time. I shake my head when i see it, but it works for them. A lot of chair parts are 6" or less. Take a common chair design, the Morris chair, for example. The arms are 6" or less. The legs are 2-3" square. The only thing on that chair that is probably greater than 6" in width is the front stretcher. And for that piece, you pop the guard off your jointer and run it through. Id get the best deal on a 6" machine i could and blow the budget on a solid bandsaw.

[Tom Trees]

Since you are wanting a jointer then you probably have space for a good bandsaw also.
I would definitely get the bandsaw first, but I don't mind hand planing (the stock I work on doesn't need much.)
Get the first bargain you come across, if your not put off by 3 phase, you could buy both machines your after for the price of one.
Slap a 100 and something quid VFD on them both, and you're good to go.
Just in case you stumble on planer thicknessers, they will normally have two motors and that complicates things.
Not seen someone make a thread on this, but believe it can be done.

[Jacob Mac]

I would look for used and see what tool/good deal becomes available first. Either a jointer or a bandsaw will be a huge upgrade. I would just see what shakes loose first.

[Mark Daily]

Get a jointer first. An 8” would be great if you can afford it and have the room. I have a 6” and have rarely needed an 8”.
Bandsaw next. A 14” would probably be fine unless you plan on doing a lot of resawing.

I bought mine at Grizzly about 15 years ago and have had no problems or complaints about any of them.

[Jim Dwight]

Nobody has said this so I will. These tools are in very different price categories. A bosch jigsaw is a very good jig saw. I just looked and you can get a more current barrel grip saw like the one I have for $140 from Amazon. Maybe if you get a kit with accessories you spend $250. But unless you find a very good deal on a used machine you won't get a jointer or bandsaw for even $250. The bandsaw I want and will probably buy soon is the Rikon 14 inch that will resaw about 12 inches thick. It goes for about $1200. I use an old Inca 8 5/8 jointer that you cannot buy new but any 8 inch jointer will be over $1,000. A six inch will be several times the jig saw cost.

I have a set of chairs to make next year too - so I need a bandsaw. I do not want to even think about making them without it. But I actually rarely use my jointer. A lot of times I just smooth rough lumber with the planner and don't worry about the minor lack of straightness. I know it isn't great technique but I've had difficulty ending up with usefully thick wood when I joint it flat and then thickness it. And sometimes it still warps a little when I get to final thickness. I can edge it for glueup just fine with the track saw or table saw, depending on length. I am not saying everything can be done with just the planner but when the wood is going to be tied together into a piece, it can be flattened in that process. Regardless of how you do it, wood just isn't always perfectly flat and thinking you can change that just leads to frustration. Flat is like lots of things in woodworking. It needs to be flat enough for what you are doing.

Long winded way of saying I would get a Bosch jigsaw if you want one and then a bandsaw. And later a jointer if you want one. But checking the used market is a great idea and if you find a good buy on the jointer first, go for it.

I will also say you probably don't need to spend 1200 on a bandsaw unless you want to be able to resaw. I had a not very good one and made a bunch of chairs with it. But this time I want one I know can do everything I want to do. I'm thinking the table to go with the chairs may have a laminated top with a top veneer of figured cherry. I don't want plywood type face veneer on a table because I am worried about durability. But bandsawn veneer 1/4 thick should be durable and even able to be sanded down if it is badly dinged.

I'm rambling but hopefully there is something helpful in there.

[Paul F Mills]

Thank you for the input, everyone. It seems the general consensus is to get a jointer and then a bandsaw, or hand planes and a bandsaw. I do not have any handplanes yet and think I could pick up a few and a bandsaw for a lot less than just an 8” jointer. I need to try hand planing at some point, but not sure if that is the route I want to go yet.

While cost is not really a big issue as to which one I get first, I will likely only be able to get one this year. I keep thinking of the 8” jointer so I would be set for the future, but based on a few comments I could probably get by with a 6”. For those of you with a 6”, how often have you needed an 8”? Only a $500 difference in cost which might allow me to get the bandsaw at the same time with a few extra bills added in.

This is the chair I am going to build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3kRuH4vv8Y. A small jointer will work for it and most of what I do.

I will not be selling my 735 and replacing it with a j/p combo. While my wife indulges me in my woodworking frivolities, she would probably frown upon that since it is only six months old.

I have a two car garage with a 4x6 worktable, an extra worktable to the side to hold other stuff, the table saw with 36” extension, lumber storage, miter saw, and the other typical garage stuff. The new bandsaw would go where the old one is, the jointer I would need to figure out. Probably ditch the extra table and put it there. My wife wants to park in the garage during the winter for some reason.

I will work on the bandsaw setup some more this weekend and try a new blade (this one should be new but is old stock). I have been able to cut small stock with it, it is thicker stuff that gives me a problem. I do not want to spend much money on it because it is still underpowered, has a small table, and small resaw capacity. I know I will replace it over time, but when is unknown.

I have not been able to locate a used jointer or bandsaw in my area of a capacity or quality that I want to buy. I am not looking for top level stuff really, but I want something that is going to last.

Thanks

[Paul F Mills]

This is a little less resaw capacity than I want, but is is a good deal? I really do not know how often I will resaw or what size, I just know I need to do 4-5” for my bedside table project.

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/d/huntersville-grizzly-g-bandsaw/6985656226.html

[Cary Falk]

I use my jointer way moer than my bandsaw. I consider my jigsaw to be a rough construction type of tool

[Jim Dwight]

On the positive side, the craiglist bandsaw may be able to take a riser block to add 6 inches capacity for resaw. On the minus side, I think those sell new for 5-600. The new ones are likely to be nicer than that one. I think it's over priced. But maybe they would come down.

[Mark Daily]

This is a little less resaw capacity than I want, but is is a good deal? I really do not know how often I will resaw or what size, I just know I need to do 4-5” for my bedside table project.

https://charlotte.craigslist.org/tls/d/huntersville-grizzly-g-bandsaw/6985656226.html

Paul, that saw was discontinued some time ago. It may be difficult to find a riser block for it.

This is the new version of the bandsaw I bought 15 years ago. It has been more than adequate for all my needs. I even bought a 6” riser for it but never needed or installed it. It’s not much more than the one in Craigslist which I agree is overpriced.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-The-Ultimate-14-Bandsaw/G0555

[Paul F Mills]

I agree it is overpriced. I had planned to offer him $200, maybe $250. In a discussion with him he said the top wheel had some issue but he cannot get it off. That ended the thought of buying it.

I am going to pick up a hand plane or two in the next few weeks and keep look for a used jointer and bandsaw. Come December, I will buy one or both, new or used.

[Steven Cooper2]

I'm with Mark above in the Grizzly bandsaw camp. I signed up for their newsletter and got a 10% off coupon and used that to essentially cancel the cost of shipping.

I don't yet have a jointer in my shop (well I do, but it is in the process of being refurbished), but I have to say having a decent band saw set up (actually have 2) is really handy for all sorts of things. I find myself re-sawing all sorts of things that I didn't plan on as well as doing oddball cuts and notches and things for other projects around the shop. I keep the resaw blade on the G0555LX 14" saw with riser, and the little one has a smaller blade

Take a look at joining a local woodworking club, I see a decent 14+" bandsaw go up in the classifieds about once a month at a very reasonable price, and coming through a woodworking club, I would guess that the chances of it being in good shape vs craigslist are much better. Same goes for jointers.

Good Luck!

[Robert Cherry]

Having just finished up a set of 15 chairs my initial reaction was to recommend the bandsaw, but then I watched the video you posted the link to. For that mid-century modern style chair you would be better served by a good jointer. You could easily get by with a decent Bosch saber saw for the minimal curved work required on that piece, but making the routing templates might take some effort (unless you have someone with a CNC cut them for you, which is what I do).

i had a 12” Craftsman bandsaw for years and once tuned up it worked fine, but was a bit slow due to being underpowered. So don’t give up on it just yet, might just need a few adjustments and proper blade tensioning

[Ole Anderson]

I have an old 6" King-Seeley Craftsman jointer that gets used frequently for putting a straight edge on boards prior to cutting to width on my TS. I get lots of use from my Delta 13" lunchbox planer. Key to not needing a wider jointer is that I buy most of my wood skip planed one side or full planed on both faces at 1/16" over final thickness at just a bit more cost than rough sawn. Price jumps up a lot if I want if surfaced all four sides, so I don't go that route. Lucky i have a great mill only 10 minutes from home (Armstrong's in Highland MI). Doing so eliminates the need for a wider jointer to get one flat face. I sometimes regret buying a 15" band saw as I don't resaw much. However I am in the middle of cutting the back slats for 6 Michigan mitt shaped Adirondack chairs, so all of a sudden, no more regrets. Can't imaging using a saber saw for that much scroll work, particularly on the 2x legs.

[Jim Becker]

Ole, as an aside, skip planed material or even S4S doesn't mean flat at all. That's not a face jointed surface. You need to check things carefully for sure. With your planer, you can use a sled to be sure you have one face flat if need be. It's more cumbersome than having a wide jointer, but absolutely a worthy process when you don't have one available to flatten wider stock.

[Bradley Gray]

Something I learned recently about buying skip planed lumber - sellers can grade it based on the best side whereas rough lumber is grade based on the worst side.

[Ole Anderson]

Ole, as an aside, skip planed material or even S4S doesn't mean flat at all. That's not a face jointed surface. You need to check things carefully for sure. With your planer, you can use a sled to be sure you have one face flat if need be. It's more cumbersome than having a wide jointer, but absolutely a worthy process when you don't have one available to flatten wider stock. Agreed. Even if we flatten it ourselves, it starts to move as soon as temp and humidity changes. I sort through the rough sawn material, hand it to the worker at the mill (family business) he runs it over the big 24" Northfield jointer a few times to flatten it on one side (I refer to this as skip planing), then they run it through the planer just enough times to smooth it on both sides. I typically tell them to get it to 13/16" for 4 quarter stock. Then it sits in my shop until I am ready to get it down to the final thickness I need. It saves me a lot of time running stock through my lunchbox planer multiple times and emptying the chip barrel. Never had any wood noticeably twist or cup after bring it home from the mill.

[Jim Becker]

Thanks for the clarification of what you are buying, Ole. It's nice that they are face jointing for you!

[Thomas McCurnin]

Band saws have a number of advantages: (1) Safest tool in the shop. It is really hard to hurt yourself. (2) Its the only tool for resawing wood to thinner strips. (3) Can be used on wood or metal, rough cut or fine cut. Very versatile tool. Buy a good one at least 14". You can get great deals on old Deltas or Rockwells which run on 120 or 240.

I almost never used my jointer. I buy wood pre jointed and when necessary, grab a long hand plane.

[Ole Anderson]

Band saws have a number of advantages: (1) Safest tool in the shop. It is really hard to hurt yourself. Ah, but don't get too complacent, remember, bandsaws are used by the butcher to cut meat and bone.

[Jim Becker]

Ah, but don't get too complacent, remember, bandsaws are used by the butcher to cut meat and bone.

That's what I was going to say...the perception that the band saw is "safer" is only relative to the operator's best practices. IE..."stuff" happens... ;)

[Doug Dawson]

That's what I was going to say...the perception that the band saw is "safer" is only relative to the operator's best practices. IE..."stuff" happens... ;)

Very good reason to go with a band saw with a blade brake (like some of the Lagunas or other higher end saws, rather than the older ones.) Like I've mentioned once before, the closest I've ever come to being cut by a saw was resawing on an older Delta without one, many years ago. Looong silent coast-down, especially with hearing protection and a dust collector going in the background.

[Thomas McCurnin]

I've been bitten by nearly every tool in my shop in 50 years of woodworking. The only exceptions are my skill saws, table saws, miter saws and my bandsaw. Now mind you, I've had some serious kickback on my table saw, but always stand to one side and never, ever let my hand get close to the blade. I stand by my statement that the band saw is the safest power saw in my shop. There is no kickback, no binding, no explosive crumbling of wood, and it does not operate with the torque that a table saw does. Short of being stoned and letting your hands fall into the blade, its hard to imagine what could go wrong.

Then again, I am super-aware of safety and extremely paranoid around any power tool. I wish I could be so careful around hand tools, as sharp chisels have drawn more blood from me than I care to admit.

[johnny means]

The jigsaw is not a serious tool for fine woodworking. Even the best of them (Bosch) have issues with tracking over longer cuts, plus the dust collection is poor no matter how you slice it. A decent bandsaw is invaluable, and it would be the first tool I'd buy. Used is your friend, if you have the means to transport it. Get something good, and only cry once.

A jointer would be the next purchase, if you're totally opposed to hand planes (which you shouldn't be.) People talk up sizes wider than 8", but when I get a board wider than that, I just rip it and rejoin it (which has the advantage of increased stability, and the difference in figure matching is IMO negligible.)

I disagree. I use a jigsaw almost daily in a professional environment. They're especially useful when your bandsaw isnt an industrial sized monster.

[Paul F Mills]

I have such a good wife. She told me to proceed with the purchase of both the jointer and bandsaw today. So a trip to Woodcraft resulted in an 8” Powermatic dovetail way jointer with helical heads and a Rikon 14” Deluxe bandsaw. Of course, she gets a trip to New Zealand next year in exchange.

Since we could not easily handle the jointer ourselves and I do not want to risk having some of my buddies drop it, I am having both delivered on Wednesday. They are sssmeblying the jointer and I will do the bandsaw. I think the $125 fee will be money well spent.

Just in time for a four day weekend.