Router Table Top - Solid Wood?

[Chip Byrd]

I am in the process of building a new router table. I have some old growth southern yellow pine left over from a project and was thinking about making the top out of that. I would be laminated strips about 2” wide and I would probably make the top about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2” thick. Any reason not to do this? I know standard protocol is MDF or plywood with melamine or the like on the top. But i like the idea of a heavy top. And using what I have on hand.

Chip

[Prashun Patel]

As long as you keep it flat, it can work. But if you ever have to re-level the top, the fitting of any lift/rings/or plate will have to be adjusted too. I suspect this is why a lot of people stick with materials that don't warp. That being said, plywood and mdf can warp too as they sag.

Consider that the thicker the top, the shallower your max depth of cut without an extension.

[Larry Frank]

If it were me, I would build from several layers of mdf or BB. It is likely to stay flat much better. I built mine 10+ years ago from BB with Formica and it has stayed flat.

[Tom Dixon]

Of it were me, I would build from several layers of mdf or BB. It is likely to stay flat much better. I built mine 10+ years ago from BB with Formica and it has stayed flat.

+1 for 2 layers of 3/4 MDF or BB with a laminate surface. I have one made from MDF that is about 10 years old that is still flat and another I made recently using MDF that was constructed specifically for my design for a top with a rack & pinion fence mechanism (https://bit.ly/2vVYEgk)

[Edward Dyas]

Solid wood even thouto you might make it perfectly flat may not stay flat. I've made them out of plywood covering both sides with formica which has worked well. The best one I've made is when I took an old table saw with a cast iron top and gutted the saw parts and converted it into a router table. With that you can have a fence you can set into place to do dado work and having the cast top you know it will stay flat.

[Robert Engel]

As stable as that wood my be, I agree with the others you really want to use sheet goods. Flatness is paramount.

I've made several tops over the years and I"ll echo that I've found best is 2 layers of 3/4 MDF edged with hardwood edge/laminate on both sides. Even with this, I usually have a support brace underneath on either side of the router. But I'm making the tops longer now, like 42".

I've found a T track along the length about 3" in front of the router plate is very handy for feather boards or guides.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with the other responses...something using "manufactured materials" is inherently more stable. Also, that recess you cut for the mounting plate or lift will change dimension seasonally with solid stock across the grain. The amount will vary with species, but it can be significant, either pinching the plate or leaving a gap to collect debris.

[Jim Andrew]

Yellow pine is a kind of kinky wood, have seen floor joists move after being installed, so would look at a hardwood. Made a router top from ash years ago, and it has stayed flat, but put finish on both sides after having fit the router plate to it, and made sure every bit of the cutout was coated with finish. You would want to use wood that has acclimated to your shop first.

[Chip Byrd]

Thanks, guys. I will be using MDF or BB.

[Jim Dwight]

The top of mine is a sink cutout. I got it at a home center but I haven't noticed them since. I edged it with hardwood. Formica countertops are made of high density particle board and, of course, the laminate is already attached.

[Ben Rivel]

Personally I cant imagine using anything other than a cast iron table now that Ive gone that route! But if I were going to build from scratch, a couple layers of baltic birch plywood and a formica sheet on top is probably somewhere along the lines Id start with.

[Tom M King]

My favorite is synthetic bowling alley lane material. It's solid phenolic, but machines well. You have to be able to get past the fake woodgrain though. It's usually given away for free, when you can catch them redoing a bowling alley.

[Frank Pratt]

Personally I cant imagine using anything other than a cast iron table now that Ive gone that route! But if I were going to build from scratch, a couple layers of baltic birch plywood and a formica sheet on top is probably somewhere along the lines Id start with.

I made my top out of 3 layers of 18 mm Baltic Birch ply with plastic laminate on both top & bottom. Total thickness is about 2 1/4". I did the cutout just like the cast iron top is for the Excalibur lift. It's got the same number of leveling screw that can be adjusted from underneath and is a thing of beauty.

The Excalibur cast iron top was over $400 & I couldn't justify the expense. Then about a month after I got mine done, the local tool monger had the Excaliber tops on clearance for $99. Talk about bad timing. I was almost tempted to get one just because.

[Matt Day]

Melamine for me.

[Curt Harms]

Melamine for me.

Yup, low friction tops for router tables are a requirement for me.

[Ole Anderson]

Two layers of 13 ply 3/4" birch sandwiched with formica top and bottom.

[jack duren]

2 layers of particle board with laminate should be fine..

[andy bessette]

Built mine from a re-purposed, cast iron, table saw top.

https://i.postimg.cc/ZR0bfb5B/shop-1.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Matt Day]

Your image hosting service isn’t letting us see the hi res image. Can’t really see what you’re showing in the low quality one, though I’m sure I’ve see the pic a few times over the years.

[Chip Byrd]

Thanks again, guys. Going with BB.