Knocking down the shine on Arm-R-Seal satin

[Tom Hyde]

I just completed the finish on an Arts and Craft style shoe bench commission. I used Arm-R-Seal satin and the result are very good. But, I'd like to knock the shine (sheen?) down just a little, but not to full flat, for a more natural looking and style appropriate look. Using a maroon pad would be too much.

What would/do you use?

[Michael Roberts]

I often sand a cured coat of arm-r-seal with either a festool or abralon pad - 500grit should knock the sheen down from satin. I usually use 1000 grit which yields more sheen than you describe. I lubricate the pad with a mix of mineral oil and mineral spirits - a trick I learned from the woodwhisperer.

-Mike

[John K Jordan]

I just completed the finish on an Arts and Craft style shoe bench commission. I used Arm-R-Seal satin and the result are very good. But, I'd like to knock the shine (sheen?) down just a little, but not to full flat, for a more natural looking and style appropriate look. Using a maroon pad would be too much.

What would/do you use?

To cut back shine I use Liberon 0000 steel wool and/or pumice on a cotton pad, lubricated with a little oil.

JKJ

[Bennett Ostroff]

You could let the satin Arm-R-Seal sit in the can for a few days and the flatteners will settle to the bottom. The scoop off some of the gloss from the top, and voila, you've got a flat(ter) sheen.

Unless you have a perfectly level/glass surface, if you rub the satin to cut back shine, the low spots will remain satin.

[John TenEyck]

Let it sit at least a week. The sheen will dull just from doing that. If it's still too glossy, then most any of the above recommended solutions will work. Not much is easier than 0000 steel or brass wool with wax, however. Cuts the sheen, including in any little valleys, and gives an amazing silky feel afterwards. For even lower sheen use mineral spirits instead of wax.

John

[Edward Dyas]

A satin finish is made by adding a flattening agent to gloss. The more flattening agent a finish has the flatter it will be. If you go to a real paint store you could possibly purchase just the flattening agent for oil based paint and add more flattening agent to the finish. Another option would be to purchase another can of satin and after the finish has sat overnight gently pour off the liquid off the goo in the bottom of the can and use that for gloss. The goo in the bottom of the can is the flattening agent which you could add to the finish. Just find some way to measure what you add so you can replicate the finish.

[Tom Hyde]

Thanks for all the tips! Very helpful. As usual I learned quite a bit here.

[Tom M King]

I haven't used any steel wool since discovering the 3M Scotchbrite pads for finishing automotive clearcoat. It comes in boxes of perforated rolls, in four different grades. You tear off one the same size as the ones you see everywhere, but the colors, and grades are different. The last three get progressively finer than the typical ones sold in small packs. The gold ones are the finest abrasive pads, which they say is between a 000, and 0000 steel wool, but they seem finer than even 0000 to me. The white ones have no abrasive. There is no steel ruboff. I bought boxes of the rolls for about 25 bucks off ebay.

One of my secrets for the new houses I used to sell was using 0000 steel wool, and Pledge furniture polish on all the trim, and cabinetry. I would have liked to have these pads then, because there was always some cleaning of the steel rubout off of some places.

[roger wiegand]

I use 0000 steel wool then apply some carnauba wax after the varnish has thoroughly cured. (I don't bother with the semi-gloss Arm-r-seal, just use the gloss and polish it out. I figure I don't need the flatteners that might obscure the wood-- plus then I only have one can in process at a time.). I have the full range of Scotchbrite pads as well and will sometimes use them on flat surfaces, but I like the finish off the steel wool better, plus its much easier to get it into narrow spaces, the scotchbrite is too stiff.

[John TenEyck]

Speaking of carnauba wax, I recently tried Lundmark Paste Wax. It has almost magical properties. Wipes on and off easily, and leaves a beautiful sheen that won't show finger marks. Made in USA and doesn't cost a fortune. Almost too good to believe, but true.

John