lou sansone
12-15-2005, 8:03 PM
Good evening wood workers
I thought that some of you might to gaze at a few photos of a saw that I recently owned. There are a couple of other folks here at the creek that also own this same saw. Bill S has one in mint shape.
The oliver 260D is a dual arbor tilting arbor saw. it is quite unusually and many may not have see the in's and out's of one. So I thought that you might like to see one. They are quite impressive when all dressed up and especially when you hit the start button. These is nothing like the sound of a direct drive saw.
Ok for the particulars
The saw has twin 5 hp louis allis direct drive motors that each can energize a 16" blade. the arbor is 1" and the clamping flanges are a full 6" in diameter. No blade stabilizer needed. Each motor has its own drum brake that really works pretty decent. I would say it stops the 16" blade in less than 6 seconds ( who said that only the Europeans have thought of safety - this saw was 1948 vintage ! )
The slip ring assembly that you see is to allow power to be directed to the correct
to the motors
I think that these saws really worked well for pattern shops that needed to accurate cross cut and also rip on a regular basis. before the advent of combo blades, this saw was designed to make the switch over from one type of cutting to the other quite rapid. One arbor could have your dedicated super fine cross cutting blade and the other a true ripping blade.
The motors are built into a massive casting called the "turret" which I have failed to take a picture of when I had the saw apart for overhaul. The raise/lower handle on the front of the saw is part of a worm screw assembly. The worm screw turns a worm gear that is fastened to the turret. As you turn the raise and lower handle what you are really going it rotating the turret that has both motors case right into it. One motor and blade rotates up to the 12 O'Clock position. The would represent the greatest height for that blade. The other motor is directly opposed and at the 6 o'clock position ( not in service and all the way down). If you were to continue to turn the raise / lower handle the blade would begin to lower into the machine, until it disappeared completely ( it would be at the 3 O'Clock position) . The other blade that was at 6 o' clock would now be at 9 o clock. If you continue to crank on the raise / lower handle the blade that was at 9 o clock would all of a sudden appear out of the throat plate and become the active blade.
Tilting is accomplished by tilting the entire turret and blade flask as you can see from the photos.
The sliding table has a 30 inch stoke. not real long, but good enough for cross cutting a lot of things.
One of the pictures shows a 1/2" flat washer just sitting on the table while the 16 inch blade is just spinning away. the saw is rock solid, but at 2350 lbs it should be. enjoy the photos
lou
I thought that some of you might to gaze at a few photos of a saw that I recently owned. There are a couple of other folks here at the creek that also own this same saw. Bill S has one in mint shape.
The oliver 260D is a dual arbor tilting arbor saw. it is quite unusually and many may not have see the in's and out's of one. So I thought that you might like to see one. They are quite impressive when all dressed up and especially when you hit the start button. These is nothing like the sound of a direct drive saw.
Ok for the particulars
The saw has twin 5 hp louis allis direct drive motors that each can energize a 16" blade. the arbor is 1" and the clamping flanges are a full 6" in diameter. No blade stabilizer needed. Each motor has its own drum brake that really works pretty decent. I would say it stops the 16" blade in less than 6 seconds ( who said that only the Europeans have thought of safety - this saw was 1948 vintage ! )
The slip ring assembly that you see is to allow power to be directed to the correct
to the motors
I think that these saws really worked well for pattern shops that needed to accurate cross cut and also rip on a regular basis. before the advent of combo blades, this saw was designed to make the switch over from one type of cutting to the other quite rapid. One arbor could have your dedicated super fine cross cutting blade and the other a true ripping blade.
The motors are built into a massive casting called the "turret" which I have failed to take a picture of when I had the saw apart for overhaul. The raise/lower handle on the front of the saw is part of a worm screw assembly. The worm screw turns a worm gear that is fastened to the turret. As you turn the raise and lower handle what you are really going it rotating the turret that has both motors case right into it. One motor and blade rotates up to the 12 O'Clock position. The would represent the greatest height for that blade. The other motor is directly opposed and at the 6 o'clock position ( not in service and all the way down). If you were to continue to turn the raise / lower handle the blade would begin to lower into the machine, until it disappeared completely ( it would be at the 3 O'Clock position) . The other blade that was at 6 o' clock would now be at 9 o clock. If you continue to crank on the raise / lower handle the blade that was at 9 o clock would all of a sudden appear out of the throat plate and become the active blade.
Tilting is accomplished by tilting the entire turret and blade flask as you can see from the photos.
The sliding table has a 30 inch stoke. not real long, but good enough for cross cutting a lot of things.
One of the pictures shows a 1/2" flat washer just sitting on the table while the 16 inch blade is just spinning away. the saw is rock solid, but at 2350 lbs it should be. enjoy the photos
lou