Rust prevention

[Larry Blighton]

I have read alot of different things about rust prevention on the boards. I have a question about paste wax, everything I have read says apply it to help protect against rust.

How is everyone applying it, by hand with a rag and then using some sort of buffer to polish the surface?

What have you found to be the best way to apply?

[Lisa Starr]

I just apply with a rag and hand buff with a clean rag when dry. It takes a little time, but I find it enjoyable when I'm too tired to actually work on a project.

[Lee Schierer]

I apply paste wax with a 0000 steel wool pad or a rag. I wipe it off as soon as I get the saw table coated.

[David Buchhauser]

I apply paste wax with a 0000 steel wool pad or a rag. I wipe it off as soon as I get the saw table coated.

I do the same thing as Lee, but substitute a 3M red scotch pad for the steel wool.

David

[Larry Blighton]

I just apply with a rag and hand buff with a clean rag when dry. It takes a little time, but I find it enjoyable when I'm too tired to actually work on a project.


I apply paste wax with a 0000 steel wool pad or a rag. I wipe it off as soon as I get the saw table coated.


I do the same thing as Lee, but substitute a 3M red scotch pad for the steel wool.

David


Thanks for the info

[Mark e Kessler]

I use renaissance wax applied/wiped off with a rag, i find it superior to reg past wax. Easier to apply/remove and seems to prevent rust better. It also last longer as a slip agent on my planer/jointer bed.

I never clean between applications unless there is rust, each application will just continue to polish surface.

[lowell holmes]

Johnson Floor Wax keeps the rust off my tools in Dickinson, Galveston County Texas.
One can will last 10-15 years. This is in a wet climate.

[Jak Kelly]

I use automotive grade wax. Was ripping some wood the other night and the drops just slide back towards me effortlessly.
I think last time I did it I also used the steel wool trick as well, as in applied it with steel wool.

[Doug Dawson]

I have read alot of different things about rust prevention on the boards. I have a question about paste wax, everything I have read says apply it to help protect against rust.

How is everyone applying it, by hand with a rag and then using some sort of buffer to polish the surface?

What have you found to be the best way to apply?

I use CRC 3 36, let it "dry" overnight, wipe it down, then (I use to) apply Johnson's Paste Wax, let it skim over for about a half hour or so, and wipe it smooth vigorously with a clean rag, and repeat this several times as needed to get the right texture. It's a bit "sticky", so more recently I've been using Butchers Bowling Alley wax, and it is less so.

Some people (manufacturers even) recommend baby powder, but that stuff can contain trace quantities of asbestos (as has recently come to light) so I wouldn't recommend it in a shop with strong air circulation, ahem.

[Bill Dufour]

In my cliamte my wood does not rust. I have never used ironwood.

[Charles Lent]

I use automotive grade wax. Was ripping some wood the other night and the drops just slide back towards me effortlessly.
I think last time I did it I also used the steel wool trick as well, as in applied it with steel wool.

Automotive waxes and anything else containing silicone is banned from my shop. Silicone is next to impossible to completely remove once it gets on something. When it gets on your wood it will create major problems when it comes time to apply finish (stain, polyurethane, etc.). The finish will develop fish eyes wherever the silicone is. Sorry to bring you the bad news.

I use Johnson's Paste Wax, applied with a rag. I wax all cast iron about 2X a year, and more frequently on the table surfaces, sometimes every few weeks when using my tools a lot. It helps the wood slide on the tables easily. I also wax my router bases, dovetail jig, M&T jig, and even lubricate the ways and gears of my Unisaw with it. For this, I apply it hick with an old tooth brush. The wax surface develops a hardened crust and does not collect saw dust like petroleum lubricants do, yet stays soft and remains stuck to the ways and gears to keep them moving smoothly. One can lasts me about 6 years. My shop is air conditioned, but only when I'm working there, or when the temperature drops below freezing the unit is a heat pump, so it keeps my shop temperature above freezing in the Winter, to keep my batteries, paints, etc. happy and condensation to a minimum. I have no rust problems in my shop, and it's about 4' above and less than 60' from a 250 acre lake.

Charley

[Dave Burson]

How about if the TS top already has some rust spots on it? Best way to get it out, and smooth, prior to doing the Johnson's wax treatment? I know about using jelly, but assuming there's a better way?

[Doug Dawson]

How about if the TS top already has some rust spots on it? Best way to get it out, and smooth, prior to doing the Johnson's wax treatment? I know about using jelly, but assuming there's a better way?

I use a "sandflex hand block", which you can find on amazon, which acts like an eraser for rust spots. Start with the "fine" one, coarser as necessary. Klingspor Abrasives is the manufacturer.

[Mark e Kessler]

How about if the TS top already has some rust spots on it? Best way to get it out, and smooth, prior to doing the Johnson's wax treatment? I know about using jelly, but assuming there's a better way?

For a full clean i use bar keepers friend with some water and red scotchbrite, clean that up with simple green untill the rag is clean then wipe with denatured alcohol then renaissance wax, you will be amazed at the results...

[tom lucas]

I clean with orange glow. Then, first apply light oil with a green scotch brite pad. Then rub down with pure talcum powder using a chalk board eraser. Then Johnsons paste wax if I won't be using the machine for several days. I don't buff off the wax until ready to use. In between daily usage, I just keep the sawdust off and maybe rub the eraser across it with just the talc that's in it. It's very humid here and my shop is unconditioned with no insulation. No rust on any of my machines.

Use talc sparingly. It is also a good lubricant for ways and fences.

[Will Blick]

Johnson Floor Wax keeps the rust off my tools in Dickinson, Galveston County Texas.
One can will last 10-15 years. This is in a wet climate.

Lowell, how long does it last before rust starts up again? I realize all tools are differen based on use...but a general idea...

[Jacob Reverb]

Automotive waxes and anything else containing silicone is banned from my shop. Silicone is next to impossible to completely remove once it gets on something. When it gets on your wood it will create major problems when it comes time to apply finish (stain, polyurethane, etc.). The finish will develop fish eyes wherever the silicone is. Sorry to bring you the bad news.

I've run across that problem, as well. If/when it happens, you can sometimes work around it by adding a product called "Smoothie" (sold for auto painting work) to the finish. Ironically, I believe it contains silicone, of all things!

I've also heard you can apply shellac over the fisheye, then finish as normal, though I've never tried this.

[Edward Dyas]

What I like to do is apply the wax to the machine with an orbital sander with a automotive scotchbrite pad on the sander. The scotchbrite pad will adhere very well to the hook and loop. Of course it ruins the sander for other applications but I got a cheap HF sander I use for that purpose only. With the scotchbrite pad you end up polishing the metal at the same time.

[Rob Charles]

In addition to the above mentioned actions, about a year ago, I ended up with some excess interlocking floor mats. I had always worried that the cardboard I uses to cover the machine surfaces when not in use might attract moisture. So, I cut the excess mats to fit the machine tops as a trial. After about 1 1/2 years in an semi-insulated shop located in coastal humid Maryland, with only a wood stove for heat & no AC, the surfaces remain pristine. I have concluded that their closed cell foam is superior to cardboard in reducing/preventing condensation from forming on the surfaces.

Historically, I have used Johnsons paste wax. The next time I clean & are-wax a surface, I am going to try the catalyzed wax (contains no silicone) I use on my autos.

[Ben Rivel]

Give this link a read: LINK (https://www.trentdavis.net/wp/2017/06/13/tool-maintenance-protecting-cast-iron-tabletop/)

[Larry Blighton]

Give this link a read: LINK (https://www.trentdavis.net/wp/2017/06/13/tool-maintenance-protecting-cast-iron-tabletop/)

In the link they use Denatured alcohol to remove all of the WD-40, could mineral spirits be used to do this same thing.

[Larry Blighton]

In the link they use Denatured alcohol to remove all of the WD-40, could mineral spirits be used to do this same thing.

Never mind I answered my own question. Mineral spirits would not be good to use because it is distilled from petroleum and could leave an oily film.

[Ben Rivel]

Never mind I answered my own question. Mineral spirits would not be good to use because it is distilled from petroleum and could leave an oily film.
Yep. I have also found that kerosene leaves a bit of a film too which I have used denatured alcohol to remove.

[David L Morse]

Never mind I answered my own question. Mineral spirits would not be good to use because it is distilled from petroleum and could leave an oily film.

Mineral spirits shouldn't be a problem if your going to wax it. According to the SDS SC Johnson Paste Wax is at least 60% mineral spirits (Stoddard Solvent).

[Doug Dawson]

I have read alot of different things about rust prevention on the boards. I have a question about paste wax, everything I have read says apply it to help protect against rust.

How is everyone applying it, by hand with a rag and then using some sort of buffer to polish the surface?

What have you found to be the best way to apply?

Would you happen to have been thinking about that Excalibur router table from the other thread? I just got to thinking, wouldn't it be wonderful if you could take some EvapoRust and paint it on the cast iron table, let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off (disposing of the rags safely of course.) Specifically to that situation, I would be tempted to try that.

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

For any part that can't be immersed, EvapoRust recommends saturating paper towels with their solution and placing them on the surface and letting sit for awhile (I am paraphrasing the directions, there was a step or two more...)

[Steve Fish]

I’ve been using the Johnson PW for the cast iron tables and plywood/MDF jigs for a few years with pretty good success. Also, I use Boeisheild T-9 for hand tools and hard to reach places. I’ll give a quick wipe down after a spray and I keep the rag for that in a zip lock bag.

[lowell holmes]

I can't answer that, but my can is many years old.

[Larry Blighton]

Would you happen to have been thinking about that Excalibur router table from the other thread? I just got to thinking, wouldn't it be wonderful if you could take some EvapoRust and paint it on the cast iron table, let it sit for a bit and then wipe it off (disposing of the rags safely of course.) Specifically to that situation, I would be tempted to try that.


For any part that can't be immersed, EvapoRust recommends saturating paper towels with their solution and placing them on the surface and letting sit for awhile (I am paraphrasing the directions, there was a step or two more...)

So I bought some Evapo-Rust to try and use. I decided to try it on the Excalibur router table but with a top that is 32 x 24 it would be kinda hard to immerse. I read somewhere to soak cotton rags in the Evapo-Rust and then wrap with cellophane. I did this and it just didn't seem to work very well. Even though the rags were wrapped with cellophane some of it dried and it just didn't see to work as advertised. I how do you soak something thats bigger than any container you have, you build something. I cut down the biggest (24.5 x 34) heavy duty cardboard box that I had and lined it with plastic, not the prettiest but hopefully it will work. I took a gallon of Evapo-Rust and placed the router top in it last night and hopefully this evening when I pull it out it will look a lot better.

[Robert Engel]

If you're not used to wax on your TS top, be aware of the reduced friction and possible safety risk. When boards and jigs move around quicker than you're used to, just be aware, that's all.

No I didn't get hurt, but I'm posting this just because of a close call.

[Timothy Thorpe Allen]

Larry, I used a dresser drawer lined with a tarp to soak a 28” saw blade in EvapoRust....

[Erik Loza]

What I like to do is apply the wax to the machine with an orbital sander with a automotive scotchbrite pad on the sander. The scotchbrite pad will adhere very well to the hook and loop. Of course it ruins the sander for other applications but I got a cheap HF sander I use for that purpose only. With the scotchbrite pad you end up polishing the metal at the same time.

This exactly how I do it. ^^^

Also, not so much for surface protection but I guess for uncoated/plated steel parts inside the machine, the factory puts these little stick-on thingies all over the inside of our edgebanders...

https://www.zerust.com/products/vci-emitters-diffusers/vapor-capsule-diffusers/

Erik