Framing Question

[Mike Racine]

So I am building a small 8×10 lawn shed. My question is on the end walls I need to start my stud layout from the end that will be added when I raise the wall so as to mimic where the siding will start

So I need to subtract 3.5 from my start point and make my first mark at 19 3/4. (24” Cl) Sound about right?

So do I pick up the 24 center from that mark by moving the tape or do I need to stay pulling from the added 3.5 which would put my marks at 43 3/4 67 3/4 & 91 3/4.

Im thinking stay with the 3.5 subtracted all the way out but it doesn't come out right.....

I know newbie question LMAO

MR

[Jim Andrew]

OK, so locate your first stud, then move your tape to that point and lay out your studs from there. Don't make it more complicated than you have to.

[Charlie Velasquez]

I always started at the 48” on center mark and worked my way back from there.

[Robert Engel]

Yes you're thinking is on the right track.

24 to the first stud - 3 1/2 = 20 1/2 (center). Mark at 19 3/4 marking ahead |X or 24 3/4 marking back X|.

Then put you tape on the first mark and go 24" from there, marking ahead.

I suggest you go with 16" centers you will get a stronger wall and your siding will not bow or buckle.

[Von Bickley]

I suggest you go with 16" centers you will get a stronger wall and your siding will not bow or buckle.

I agree with Robert. I would go 16" on center.

[Bill Dufour]

Make sure you figure out the stud location before you place the bolts in the foundation. I made my end studs 1.5' taller then the sides. That way the top stud was just one piece but still overlaped at the corners.
Bil lD

[Mike Kees]

Ok. So been a carpenter for 25-30 years. You can do it like Robert tells you ,or you can just make all your marks 3/4'' short then mark your x ahead. 98% of framers I have worked with layout this way. There is no subtraction in layout,math errors screw things up,simply hold your tape 3 1/2'' past the end of your plate and mark away. Third vote for 16'' centers.

[Tom M King]

3-1/2 plus the thickness of the sheathing on the wall meeting the first wall up. This way, the sheathing forms a proper outside corner. For the second up 2x4 wall with 1/2" sheathing, I've have the helper hold 4-3/4", arrow(two lines to a point,with the point being the measurement) the 16" stud marks on the tape, and X ahead. Then go back and put a line across, with a square, on the arrows. For the first wall, we wouldn't add the sheathing thickness. The extra 3/4" lets the sheathing hit the center of the studs, with no extra factor to account for, or having to remember which side of the stud marks to add the 3/4 to.

[Steve Fish]

We usually bump ahead 1/4” if we’re using 1/2” ply. This (usually)eliminates any trimming on the outside corner after the walls are stood up and tied in. So, holding your tape 3 3/4” past the plate your first Mark is at 15 1/4”. X past the mark. Normally I drive a nail here to hook my tape for the rest of the marks . 16” and go. I’m a little bored this morning so here ya go
417077 417081