I started and couldn't stop

[Jason Buresh]

A gentleman on Craigslist was selling a Stanley sweetheart mitre box, no 358, for $15. It was a 2 hour drive round trip to get it, and on my way back up I stopped at a few antique stores and I went all out. They had outdoor flea markets and stuff on sale everyplace I stopped. I was finding one good deal after the other. I bought a Stanley #80 scraper, a pair of double spokeshaves, 2 hammers, 3 wooden planes, 2 levels, and 2 braces. All in all spent around $60, including the mitre box. It was a good day so far.

[lowell holmes]

I'd say you had a good morning and that you have some de-rusting and wd-40 time ahead.

[Jason Buresh]

Lots of de-rusting and even more wd-40

[Jim Koepke]

Ahh, the thrill of the hunt, the agonies of de-rust.

Looking forward to seeing how it all comes out.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I bet you have a bench grinder and a wire wheel for it. If not, it's time to visit Home Depot, Lowes, or the store of your choice.

[Jim Koepke]

I bet you have a bench grinder and a wire wheel for it. If not, it's time to visit Home Depot, Lowes, or the store of your choice.

For me a drill press with a wire brush can be more useful than a bench grinder. Though if you want something for a powered metal removal, a bench grinder can be handy.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Actually, I have both and I bet Jim does too. :)

[Jim Koepke]

Actually, I have both and I bet Jim does too. :)

My only 'bench grinder' is a hand crank device:

416094

It is inconvenient to use.

For powered abrasion needs a Veritas Mk.ll Power Sharpening System (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=48435&cat=1,43072) does fine.

Recently another grind wheel was put into use:

416095

It too is less convenient than a motor driven bench grinder.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

I also have had good luck with the wire wheel in the drill press. I like having the variable speed.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Non toxic rust removal: 1 part molasses (the one with sulphur in it) to 8 ~ 20 parts of water. Put in there, turn it around every two days and then after a week (or two) the rust will have dissolved without attacking the iron. It leaves the iron cleaner than any mechanical removal, just like it came out of the factory. Do not use the molasses that has the sulphur removed.

[Jason Buresh]

I picked up some evapo-rust to try

[Mike Manning]

Non toxic rust removal: 1 part molasses (the one with sulphur in it) to 8 ~ 20 parts of water. Put in there, turn it around every two days and then after a week (or two) the rust will have dissolved without attacking the iron. It leaves the iron cleaner than any mechanical removal, just like it came out of the factory. Do not use the molasses that has the sulphur removed.

How is this method with regards to paint?

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

Since I could not find locally evapo-rust I tried this and it worked fine, it did not take the paint off. Tried in the past vinegar and it took the paint off. It does not seem to attack the iron itself and aluminum does not get attacked either. It's slow however and depending on the amount of rust it can take one or two weeks. I recently did a plane that had some loose surface rust and after three days the rust had come away. There are some good youtube video's comparing it with other methods.

[Rob Luter]

That #80 looks like an old timer. They are great users when you get them tuned up.

[steven c newman]

#80 with a rounded front..aka #80 M....for Malleable iron....
Jason: awhile back, I posted a couple "How-tos" on rehabbing a Stanley Mitre Box....have done both the #358, and the #346.....might want to take a look through?

[Steven Harrison]

I picked up some evapo-rust to try

Good call. This is all I use now.

[Jason Buresh]

Rob,

It has the old Bailey markings on it so I am assuming it's from the early 1900's.

Steven,

Yes! I have been reading and looking at all the pictures of your rehab! Great job by the way. I will be relying on it when I get the courage to start. The guy just had it sitting in hIs shed for a bunch of years, and it really isn't in bad shape. It is missing the dogs that hold the wood against the fence and the bars that go underneath for a stop block, but most everything else looks like it is there except for one spring that cushions the saw as it drops. Shouldn't be hard to find a replacement spring. For the price, I feel I got a good deal.

[Jerry Olexa]

Ya had a good day.....

[Rob Luter]

Rob,

It has the old Bailey markings on it so I am assuming it's from the early 1900's.

Yup. I had one. Actually several. from different eras. I used to have a #80 problem :o. I sold them all off except for one super clean Sweetheart era version.

[Jason Buresh]

Rob,

My new blade actually came in the mail last night. I have learned real fast that these are not an easy tool to set up.
I have some experience sharpening card scrapers, but by no means am I an expert. I sharpened the blade at a 45 and got what I thought was a decent burr but I got less than satisfactory results. I will keep trying and I'm sure I get the hang of it.

[Jerry Olexa]

This can become habit-forming.. :)