Stanley #4 parts

[Jason Buresh]

So I picked up a Stanley #4 type 7 today, against my better judgement, for $8. It needs a new front knob and screw and a new lever cap. I found a website for a place in Washington that sells Stanley parts and by the time I purchase parts, I could have bought a better one on eBay. Does anyone know a good source for parts? Or should I just hang onto it in case I find another one and make one good plane from 2?415675415676415677415674

[lowell holmes]

https://www.google.com/search?q=used+stanley+planes&oq=used+stanley+&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0l5.11678j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Check this site.

[steven c newman]

nhplaneparts.

[Andrew Seemann]

I'd look at it the other way, and say you picked up a tote, chipbreaker, blade, and frog for $8, and you now have parts for that style plane if you ever need them. You could maybe get the spare parts to fix it up, but as you say, it quite likely may cost more than buying a complete plane in better condition.

The tote looks like it is in good condition, and that is definitely worth more than $8. The bolts looks to be in good condition, and those can be hard to come by; Stanley used a lot of oddball sizes. Actually, for the parts you got, $8 wasn't a bad price.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on what Andrew said. Many of my planes were bought as a couple of parts or for a few parts.

There are lever caps listed BIN on ebay currently.

One of them listed is actually a type 7. Search > Stanley lever cap <.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

I'd look at it the other way, and say you picked up a tote, chipbreaker, blade, and frog for $8, and you now have parts for that style plane if you ever need them. You could maybe get the spare parts to fix it up, but as you say, it quite likely may cost more than buying a complete plane in better condition.

The tote looks like it is in good condition, and that is definitely worth more than $8. The bolts looks to be in good condition, and those can be hard to come by; Stanley used a lot of oddball sizes. Actually, for the parts you got, $8 wasn't a bad price.

^^^This^^^

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

^^^ with Andrew, Jim and Rob ^^^ Just find another one that is missing parts, there are plenty of them.

We're building a new home and there are a few things I have to do. Recently picked up a foursquare #5 1/4 with some painted hardwood handles. The #5 1/4 is all I need for the homeowner activities. For the # 5 1/4 I want to have three blades ground differently: one for smoothing, one for scrubbing and one with a bevel.

From my woodworking days I have a leftover #3 in good condition with beautiful rosewood handles and a blade with plenty of life left.

I bought a NOS blade that cost me more than I would get for the #3 if sold. The #3 will be donating its blade and chipbreaker.

[Jason Buresh]

Thanks for the opinions! If that's the case they have a no5 type 11 for $10, but the sole and tote are junk. The sole looks like it fell off the bench and split in 2 right at the mouth and the tote is in 3 pieces and held together with electrical tape. For $10 it has a good iron, frog, lever cap and knob though. All the screws look ok too

[Mike Henderson]

It looks (from your picture) that the screw hole for the front knob has a broken screw in it. If true, you'll have to find a way to extract that before you can mount a new knob.

Knobs aren't difficult to make if you have a lathe. Course, you need the matching bolt for it.

Mike

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks for the opinions! If that's the case they have a no5 type 11 for $10, but the sole and tote are junk. The sole looks like it fell off the bench and split in 2 right at the mouth and the tote is in 3 pieces and held together with electrical tape. For $10 it has a good iron, frog, lever cap and knob though. All the screws look ok too

Run, don't walk and pick up that plane before someone else comes after it. You might be able to point out the flaws and get them to come down to $5.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Well, I got lucky today. They wouldn't come down on price of the no 5, but I bought it anyway. After looking at it closer I think it is even older because one of the patent dates is aug-10-02. It's is not the original iron, but it has a good chip breaker, frog, and knob. As I was walking out of the store, someone stopped me and noticed I had just bought a plane, and said he was a vendor and had another one for me to look at. Low and behold it was another early Stanley #4. I could not get the lever cap off, and he said because it was broke he would take $2 cash for it. I promptly took out my wallet. All in all, I bought 3 planes for a total of about $20 this weekend and I am happy with my haul. I can make one good number 4 from the number 5 with the broken sole #4 with the broken lever cap, and may leave the other #4 as is.

[Jason Buresh]

Even though I couldn't get the no 5 cheaper it was still worth it to get this #4 for $2. I couldn't get the lever cap off in the parking lot but someone had the screw WAY to tight. Came right off once the tension was released

[Jim Koepke]

The #5 is a type 9. Without seeing the front of the frog it is impossible to tell if it is an early or late type 9. This explains those designations:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131234

The #4 looks could be type 8 or earlier. Does the depth adjuster have left hand or right hand threads? Right hand threads advance the blade when the adjuster is turned to the left. It is the opposite for left hand threads which came into use ~1891. The old style adjusters, right hand treads, have patent date information stamped inside:

415774

Do you have access to a drill press? Some older ones have reversible motors*. There are also left hand twist drill bits available. They are good for getting out broken screws. They work better for me than an E-Z Out.

jtk

* It may be necessary to remove the cover on the motor's power connection to find the wiring information.

[Jason Buresh]

Jim,

On the #4 if you turn the knob to the left, or counter clockwise the blade does advance.

Here is a picture of the frog on the #5. Someone must have dropped it at some point because the mouth is brazed together

[Jason Buresh]

I just cleaned up the knob and it does have patent dates in the knob

[Jason Buresh]

And after sweating a few bullets, out comes the busted stud. I guess my trade school degree paid off after all

[Jason Buresh]

And here she is with a new knob and lever cap. Feel kinda bad for the poor #5 though

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

On the #4 if you turn the knob to the left, or counter clockwise the blade does advance.

Here is a picture of the frog on the #5. Someone must have dropped it at some point because the mouth is brazed together


I just cleaned up the knob and it does have patent dates in the knob

Your #4 is a type 6. There are likely 3 patent dates on the lateral lever and there might be one on the chip breaker. The early chip breakers didn't have knurling on the large screw.

The early blades also had patent dates.


And after sweating a few bullets, out comes the busted stud. I guess my trade school degree paid off after all

Being able to remove a broken bolt is an important skill many young folks are not learning these days.


And here she is with a new knob and lever cap. Feel kinda bad for the poor #5 though

The #5 might be useable as a scrub plane if the sole doesn't mark the work.

Looks like you are on your way to a fleet of hand planes.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Thanks Jim! I'm going to leave that type 6 alone for now. The type 7 no 4 is working great! I put a quick edge on it and it makes nice thin shavings. I have a working #5 and a working #4 now, so I am going to hunt for a #7 or #8 and then I should be good to go. Can fill in the gaps later.

As far as the young folks go, I'm 27 so I guess most people consider me young yet, but I'm starting to feel older. I feel a lot of important skills are lost these days, especially in my generation of the "millennials". Most people I know my age prefer to work with CNC and fancy power tools, but I like the old ways. I get more satisfaction from a hand crafted piece than having a computer cut all my pieces for me. I know CNC's take a lot of skill with the software, but I prefer to put my skills to use actually woodworking. Besides, people that are double or triple my age know how to have an actual conversation without a smartphone and have way better stories anyway.

I hadn't considered doing that with the number 5 maybe I will give that a shot or save it for parts. We'll see what happens.

Thanks again everyone for all the great info!

[Jim Koepke]

Both of my #4s are type 6 as is my #4-1/2. One of my #6s is a type 4. All of my other planes are type 7 or later.

It kind of keeps my brain on its toes to remember which is which.

There was a type 11 #4 (Frankenplane) in the shop, but it was sold to another Creeker recently.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Sounds like an awesome group of planes! I love the early ones. Simple in design and built to last! And it's fun to think about the craftsman who used them before me.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

.....
I have a working #5 and a working #4 now, so I am going to hunt for a #7 or #8 and then I should be good to go. Can fill in the gaps later.
.....


Before getting bigger planes consider getting a #3 or a block plane first, those will be more usefull (unless you are a builder and not into fine woodworking).

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim! I'm going to leave that type 6 alone for now. The type 7 no 4 is working great! I put a quick edge on it and it makes nice thin shavings. I have a working #5 and a working #4 now, so I am going to hunt for a #7 or #8 and then I should be good to go. Can fill in the gaps later.

[edited]


Before getting bigger planes consider getting a #3 or a block plane first, those will be more usefull (unless you are a builder and not into fine woodworking).

Fine woodworking uses jointer planes likely more than builders. Especially if one uses rough cut lumber.

Though my suggestion would be to keep an eye open for any decent planes or other tools crossing your path. Some of my tools were paid for by purchasing tools at a low price, cleaning them up and selling them at a higher price.

jtk

[steven c newman]

To get a glued up panel...one usually has to "JOINT" the edges so they meet gap free....which is where the #6, #7, and #8 jointer planes come in....

[Jason Buresh]

Yes, I have been using more rough cut lumber recently and would like a jointer plane for dimensioning and flattening. I also glue together quite a few panels and although lately I have been able to get away with a no 5 I have a few projects in mind that a jointer would be invaluable