Simple Jewelry Box Tutorial

[Mike Henderson]

I teach a class on making a simple jewelry box. Some time back, I did a tutorial for my students but my techniques have changed over the years so I did an updated tutorial. Many people here probably have skill levels beyond this tutorial but I'll offer it for anyone who might get something out of it. Click here (http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/BoxTutorial-2ndVersion.htm).

I also did a video tutorial but the production quality was not too good. I did learn quite a bit about doing a video, however, doing that project and any future video I do will be better.

Mike

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Mike. I am just in the midst of making a small jewelry box. I'll go see what I can learn.
Appreciate it!
Fred

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks for posting Mike. Your original tutorial was a very good intro into my box making.

I always had a bit of trouble aligning the top and bottom perfectly to mark for hinges, so now when cutting the box open, I run a shallow kerf first and make a mark for the hinge placement across the kerf, and then finish cutting the box open. As you noted, there is usually a very minor mis-alignment that can easily be fixed with a card scraper or sandpaper.

Also, if I’m going to felt the inside bottom, I use peel and stick felt over the entire bottom before glue up. I cut the groove to accommodate the added thickness. I wrap the entire bottom with cling wrap, then do the glue up. Doing felt this way eliminates the need to try to “fit” the felt, and the cling wrap protects the felt throughout the glueing, sanding and finishing steps. The cling wrap is easily removed by stretching it and cutting around the inside bottom edge with an x-acto, and then usually it will just pull loose from the bottom side of the bottom...if that makes sense.
Here’s an example of one I just completed:

415653

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks for posting Mike. Your original tutorial was a very good intro into my box making.

I always had a bit of trouble aligning the top and bottom perfectly to mark for hinges, so now when cutting the box open, I run a shallow kerf first and make a mark for the hinge placement across the kerf, and then finish cutting the box open. As you noted, there is usually a very minor mis-alignment that can easily be fixed with a card scraper or sandpaper.

Also, if I’m going to felt the inside bottom, I use peel and stick felt over the entire bottom before glue up. I cut the groove to accommodate the added thickness. I wrap the entire bottom with cling wrap, then do the glue up. Doing felt this way eliminates the need to try to “fit” the felt, and the cling wrap protects the felt throughout the glueing, sanding and finishing steps. The cling wrap is easily removed by stretching it and cutting around the inside bottom edge with an x-acto, and then usually it will just pull loose from the bottom side of the bottom...if that makes sense.
Here’s an example of one I just completed:

415653

Thanks for your note, Phil. That's a good idea about the felt and the cling wrap - I would have never thought of that. I'll try it. Thanks for the suggestion.

Good looking box and nice veneer work. What brand of hinges did you use? I'm always looking for less expensive (but decent) alternatives to the Brusso.

Mike

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks Mike, I can’t take credit for the cling wrap...saw it in a video somewhere...but it does work well.

Wish I could help on the hinges...I use Brusso as well. Nothing seems to compare.

[Greg Parrish]

Nice tutorial Mike. Thanks for sharing. Bookmarked for later.

[Andrew Hughes]

Very good tutorial Mike. Box making is one of my favorite projects.
These small quadrant hinges from Rockler are pretty inexpensive. I like them because they hold the lid up and open.
They do take more time to install and the lid cannot be too thin.
But I think they are worth the trouble for the box that has something special.
Good Luck

[Mike Henderson]

Very good tutorial Mike. Box making is one of my favorite projects.
These small quadrant hinges from Rockler are pretty inexpensive. I like them because they hold the lid up and open.
They do take more time to install and the lid cannot be too thin.
But I think they are worth the trouble for the box that has something special.
Good Luck

Thanks for your note, Andrew. I've used quadrant hinges in the past - I even did a tutorial (http://www.mikes-woodwork.com/QuadrantHinges.htm)on installing them without a router. But they're too difficult and fussy - a real pain to install. The Brusso are MUCH easier to install.

What I'd like to find is a regular leaf hinge with a stop around 90 degrees, but less expensive than the Brusso. Rockler has one (https://www.rockler.com/brass-plated-small-box-stop-hinge)for cheap and I tried them but they really cheapen the look of the box.

The Brusso hinges I use (JB-102) are stop hinges, meaning they hold the top upright when you open the box. Early on I made a box with a removable top but my wife told me that was a problem. She said, "Where do you want me to put the top when I go into the box?"

Mike

[Jason Ost]

Excellent tutorial

[Mike Null]

Mike
Thanks for posting a great tutorial. I am a fan of box making and, as much pleasure as I take from making them, it is always rewarding to see the appreciation of the recipient.

[Bill Carey]

Thanks Mike - great tutorial.

[Tom Bender]

Awesome tutorial Mike. I picked up many tips. Just have one to offer in return.

Instead of clamping the top and bottom with spring clamps which can cause movement and possible warping, use "gravity clamps". Just set it on a flat surface and add cauls and weights. By adding several smaller weights one at a time you will have very little risk of squirm.

[Al Launier]

Well done Mike - nice details!

Boxes have always been my favorite projects for gifts. I've always had concerns about holding the sides "tightly" against a miter gauge to prevent sliding while cutting the mitered ends. I like to use a TS sled with clamped blocks for a more positive stop to prevent sliding and to duplicate dimensions.

Phil, that is a really good ide. I will use that one for sure, especially since i've had a very large roll of cling wrap that I never used.

[Mike Henderson]

Awesome tutorial Mike. I picked up many tips. Just have one to offer in return.

Instead of clamping the top and bottom with spring clamps which can cause movement and possible warping, use "gravity clamps". Just set it on a flat surface and add cauls and weights. By adding several smaller weights one at a time you will have very little risk of squirm.

Thanks for your note, Tom. I'll try your idea of the weights next time I do a box.

Mike