Felder Eccentric Clamp Question

[Greg Parrish]

How do I best use this clamp? Right now it only seems plausible to use it at the very back of the slide or otherwise I’ll need to remove my crosscut mount points. Do people that use these simply buy a second T-Nut to leave in the track between the two crosscut points? Or do you take the crosscut points off and re-calibrate them each time?

i was thinking just order a second T-Nut and leave in the middle but wasn’t sure if this made sense or if there were downsides I’m not seeing. Thanks.

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[Patrick Kane]

Greg,

Ive only ever used it on the back of the slider. I assume you have your crosscut fence and outrigger table set in the forward position? I used my clamp for a month or so when i first got the slider, then i made the FF jig, and the clamp sat untouched for months and months. Last time i used the clamp was making straightline cuts on rough live edge lumber. In that case, the FF jig wouldnt have held the material securely for a good straightline rip. The clamp is high quality and heavy, but i found it to be somewhat cumbersome to adjust between cuts etc. I might use it more if i was working more with full sheet goods, but then i would probably go through the trouble of building a set of pneumatic clamps.

[Greg Parrish]

I just put a line on the sides of the crosscut block and pulled it so I could insert the clamp block. Think I’ll order a second for flexibility.

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[Dan Friedrichs]

Mine has gone unused since I bought one of these:
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c29/bench-clamps/p390/3-bench-clamp/

[Mike King]

Greg, is that a Felder KF700 you have? Are the crosscut blocks for the short crosscut fence?

I have a CF741 that I used to use the eccentric clamp on. I attempted to put a short crosscut fence on the slider, but could not adjust the mounting so that the fence could be remounted to be square. In fact, a Felder technician came by and also was unable to adjust it for square. The result was that I sent the fence back. When I used the eccentric clamp, I then was able to use it in what ever position made sense -- at the end of the table or the beginning, depending on the orientation of the long fence to the shaper.

My only use of the eccentric clamp was in using the shaper. It would seem to me that you can use the eccentric clamp in front of your forward crosscut block without the need to move it aft.

I have since bought a set of Mac's Airtight Clamps and use them extensively. They are much better and more versatile than the eccentric clamp. No doubt they are expensive, but they are value for money in my book. The eccentric clamp is now taking up space on top of my cabinets.

Mike

[Greg Parrish]

Mike, it’s a KF500 Pro. It has two crosscut blocks for the short cross cut fence. The longer crosscut fence connects to the outrigger. in my case the saw came with the eccentric clamp, so I’m trying to use it because it’s what I have handy. I’m only using it now for ripping the edge on rough cut lumber but I could see it being useful on plywood and shaper work too. My thoughts were to order another T-Block for the clamp so I could leave this one between the two crosscut blocks. More versatility anyway. Can’t afford the air clamps now. Down the road one day but too many other acquisitions came together this last year.



Greg, is that a Felder KF700 you have? Are the crosscut blocks for the short crosscut fence?

I have a CF741 that I used to use the eccentric clamp on. I attempted to put a short crosscut fence on the slider, but could not adjust the mounting so that the fence could be remounted to be square. In fact, a Felder technician came by and also was unable to adjust it for square. The result was that I sent the fence back. When I used the eccentric clamp, I then was able to use it in what ever position made sense -- at the end of the table or the beginning, depending on the orientation of the long fence to the shaper.

My only use of the eccentric clamp was in using the shaper. It would seem to me that you can use the eccentric clamp in front of your forward crosscut block without the need to move it aft.

I have since bought a set of Mac's Airtight Clamps and use them extensively. They are much better and more versatile than the eccentric clamp. No doubt they are expensive, but they are value for money in my book. The eccentric clamp is now taking up space on top of my cabinets.

Mike

[Greg Parrish]

Mine has gone unused since I bought one of these:
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c29/bench-clamps/p390/3-bench-clamp/

Dan, how do you attach that to the track on the slider?

[Dan Friedrichs]

Just a bolt and a washer. Slides in the slot from the end. Not as heavy-duty as the Felder clamp, but very convenient.

[Mark e Kessler]

I also have the Kreg It pulls the wood in the direction of the squeeze handle, I found it works best at the front in front of the fence as it pulls the wood into the fence. I attached mine to a piece of BB made a tee nut from maple and used a kipp.
I have since made air clamps and no longer use it on the saw, hate to say it but in the long run the airtight clamps are the way to go.

mark

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Dan, how do you attach that to the track on the slider?

[Jim Becker]

I’m only using it now for ripping the edge on rough cut lumber

As an aside, if you flatten and thickness (at least partially) first, you'll have a better result with ripping your edge(s) on the wagon and may be able to eliminate the edge jointing step if you clamp things down, use a sharp blade and make your cutting pass at a steady pace. That's what I do 100% of the time. Rarely do I rip anything that's still "rough" and when I do, it's likely because it's a funky board that will process more efficiently if I split it.

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks. I did joint and plane the boards but meant the edges were rough still. Rather than joint the edge I was cutting on the slider.



As an aside, if you flatten and thickness (at least partially) first, you'll have a better result with ripping your edge(s) on the wagon and may be able to eliminate the edge jointing step if you clamp things down, use a sharp blade and make your cutting pass at a steady pace. That's what I do 100% of the time. Rarely do I rip anything that's still "rough" and when I do, it's likely because it's a funky board that will process more efficiently if I split it.

[Greg Parrish]

I’m starting to learn that you have to somewhat reconfigure the saw each time you change operations with the slider more-so than with my prior cabinet saw.

For example, I’ve decided to simply remove the crosscut blocks when not in use. The Allen set screw have been drilled into the slide so it’s easy to remove and replace in exact spot. That makes it easier to move the eccentric clamp around as needed for edge ripping on freshly jointer and planed wood.

Then I realized that for ripping the boards lengthwise to measured size would work better with the original diving knife mounted blade/dust guard so I rigged that up to swap in and use for smaller rips like 1.5” pieces. Safer and easier to get the push stick past it over my other suspended blade/dust guard.

So, I’m learning that I’ll need to work more batch like in the same way I’ve learned to do with the combo jointer/planer.

[Mike King]

Greg, if you have the long crosscut fence on the far end of the outrigger table (the forward position), then there's no reason you cannot rip then crosscut without reconfiguring the saw. If you are trying to use the short crosscut fence, it's a different matter. One of the things that's a bit hard to learn is that on the slider, the crosscut fence is usually in front of the piece being cut.

In this configuration, parallel guide bars are quite useful and do not interfere with crosscutting.

Mike

[Greg Parrish]

Mike, I have both the outrigger with long crosscut, and the shorter crosscut. Also have one Felder parallel guide assembly. Will try that approach next time. Just finished batching a bunch of boards into strips for cutting boards. Thanks.




Greg, if you have the long crosscut fence on the far end of the outrigger table (the forward position), then there's no reason you cannot rip then crosscut without reconfiguring the saw. If you are trying to use the short crosscut fence, it's a different matter. One of the things that's a bit hard to learn is that on the slider, the crosscut fence is usually in front of the piece being cut.

In this configuration, parallel guide bars are quite useful and do not interfere with crosscutting.

Mike

[Jim Becker]

One of the things that's a bit hard to learn is that on the slider, the crosscut fence is usually in front of the piece being cut.

It's for this reason that the majority of my cross-cutting is done with the smaller miter fence on my slider rather than the larger fence on the outrigger when the piece isn't too large to be supported with the smaller fence setup. I prefer the fence to be behind the workpiece for precise cutting. Cross cutting with the outrigger fence works just fine, but requires a lot more concentration to insure that the material stays on the fence as you push through the cut; easy with panels/sheet goods, but more of a reach with solid stock. I work mostly with solid stock so that likely affects my preference here.

Greg, you're correct that there is sometimes reconfiguration for different cuts, but I don't view that as a negative at all. It helps keep the pace sane ... less rushing "should" result in less mistakes. :)

[Greg Parrish]

I didn’t get much done tonight as I spent a fair amount of time figuring out workflow for cutting straight edge on boards and then ripping into 1.5” strips, but also because I went to mount my new (and first ever) Forest Woodworker II 10” blade and it wouldn’t Fit my arbor. After reaching out to Forest via my retailer, the options were to sand it myself or return it, but they wanted me to sand the hole with a 1” dowel wrapped in Emory cloth first.

After a bunch of fiddling, I got it to fit but sure was disappointed to start my first Forest experience that way. Once mounted though it did a great job.

[Jim Andrew]

When I bought my Hammer K3 Winner table saw, I ordered some Tenryu blades from Carbide Processors, which were made to fit the Hammer arbor. They fit perfectly, and are the best blades I have ever used. Do clean them often, whenever I change from rip to crosscut, I put a blade in a plastic pan, and spray it with LA awesome ammonia cleaner. Let set for a minute or two, then scrub with a tooth brush, then rinse with plain water and dry.

[Mike King]

ICross cutting with the outrigger fence works just fine, but requires a lot more concentration to insure that the material stays on the fence as you push through the cut; easy with panels/sheet goods, but more of a reach with solid stock. I work mostly with solid stock so that likely affects my preference here.

Yet another reason why air clamps are the nuts!

Mike

[Jim Becker]

Gregg, Forrest's bores are always "really close" and they tend to fit snug on most arbors that are accurately sized. Yes, it's a pain at first, but it's also an advantage if you think about it. Zero play means the most accurate fit. But yea...a couple of thou of room would be nice to allow it to be mounted without too much extra effort. :)

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks. I’ve read good things about them too. I ordered a 12” combo blade for rip/cross cutting in hard wood, and 10” plywood blade to use with sheet goods and my scoring blade. Will see how they compare as they are about 1/2 price of the Forrest.

Right now, I have one Hammer blade, 2 Felder Silent Power blades and 1 Forrest Woodworker II blade. The Hammer, and one of the Felder blades were well used and appear to be dull and need sharpening. It was a real treat to install the brand new Forrest blade and see how nicely it ripped and cross cut hard wood.

Want to build up a few of each type I use so that I can have a rotation for cleaning myself and sending out for sharpening as needed.

Thanks again.



When I bought my Hammer K3 Winner table saw, I ordered some Tenryu blades from Carbide Processors, which were made to fit the Hammer arbor. They fit perfectly, and are the best blades I have ever used. Do clean them often, whenever I change from rip to crosscut, I put a blade in a plastic pan, and spray it with LA awesome ammonia cleaner. Let set for a minute or two, then scrub with a tooth brush, then rinse with plain water and dry.

[Mark e Kessler]

So true, I didn't think I would use them as much but the cuts are amazing because their is no movement when cutting plus ups the safety factor to a new level


Yet another reason why air clamps are the nuts!

Mike

[johnny means]

Am I picturing this correctly? The crosscut fence mounts to a point in the T track?

[Greg Parrish]

On my saw, it mounts to a block/t-nut in the track, as well as clamping to the side track. I think the 700 is similar but the hammer units are different.


Am I picturing this correctly? The crosscut fence mounts to a point in the T track?

[Erik Loza]

...Not as heavy-duty as the Felder clamp, but very convenient. Dan, thanks. Hadn’t seen these before and need to bookmark them.

Regarding eccentric clamps in general (regardless of brand), there is definitely a learning curve to using them. Between the amount of pressure they can exert and the “pulling travel”-type movement, I’ve had them distort and shift panels. You just need to be aware of that and ready for it. One trick that Sam showed me was to use a small square of leather under shoe of the clamp. It won’t mar panels, allows you to be a bit more forgiving in the height positioning of the horizontal arm, and also takes up some of the shift that happens when the clamp locks down. Hope this helps.

Erik