Crazy question...........need help

[Chris Christenberry]

I've recently taken up blacksmithing and have cut an Oak stump for my anvil. I don't own a draw knife (what kind of woodworker doesn't own a draw knife!:rolleyes: ) but used a machete to cut the bark off, using it like a draw knife. I've got it down to the stringy layer, but as a furniture builder I can't help but want to get past all the stringy/punky layer and take it down to the actual wood. My Machete doesn't seem to want to do that. I've tried my hand plane and I can get there in a few spots, but it's going to take a month of Sundays to accomplish it. Any suggestions as to how I can clear this punky stuff and get to the recognizable Oak? Your comments will be appreciated.

[Bill Dufour]

Adze? and some more words to add to the count

[Richard Coers]

The answer seems obvious. If you took up blacksmithing, make a draw knife.

[Chris Christenberry]

Adze? and some more words to add to the count

I'm needing a finer cut than that at this point. But thanks.

[Chris Christenberry]

The answer seems obvious. If you took up blacksmithing, make a draw knife.

Indeed. You are correct, but I've only recently taken up the hobby and am just getting started. Not hard to make.........but don't have a forge yet or I'd make one. I did find just a few minutes ago that my silly little 3x21 belt hand sander seems to be pretty effective to at least get me to a point I can hand plane. Just need to go buy some 36 grit belts. :D

[Prashun Patel]

I've done this a fair number of times this year; we have a lot of red oak that rives wonderfully into bowl blanks and spindles.

I use a hatchet. A simple, HD Husky Brand hatchet. I want to upgrade to a real hatchet, but it works so easily to split red and white oak logs < 24" long and to get off all the cambium. I use a 4 lb sledgehammer to get it started.

[Chris Christenberry]

I used a single bladed axe and engineers hammer to get the bark off. Then I was left with a lot of stringy/punky stuff that was in-between the bark and good wood. I was doing the "draw knife" thing with the machete, but got down close enough to the good wood that it stopped working.............................but I was still too far away from the good wood to hand plane. :confused: I think a good draw knife would help, but don't have one right now. The helt sander seems to be effective but I've got to go buy some 36 grit belts. I think I've got the problem under control now.

Thanks for the comments.

[Gary Ragatz]

Why not buy a draw knife? Home Depot has them for ~ $25. I'm sure they're not premium tools, but likely good enough to get you through this project (and then, you can say you own one).

[Chris Christenberry]

Why not buy a draw knife? Home Depot has them for ~ $25. I'm sure they're not premium tools, but likely good enough to get you through this project (and then, you can say you own one).

Good suggestion...........but I'm far to cheap to waste money on something I'll only use once. I'll make a really good one when I get my forge up and running. The sander is going to work great, I can tell just from the 80 grit belt I have on it now. 36 grit will cut right through it.

[Jamie Buxton]

Wire brush, in a disc form that goes in a 4” angle grinder. The disc and angle grinder are most often used by welders to clean off scale. A blacksmith would likely have similar uses. You can buy the discs and grinder at Home Depot and the like.

[John Sincerbeaux]

Chainsaw my choice

[Chris Christenberry]

I tried the twisted wire cup on my r-angle grinder but it had little or no effect. Hadn't thought about the disc form of wire brush. That might do it. Thanks.

[Chris Christenberry]

Chainsaw would be too harsh a cut at this point. I'm down to the hand planing stage. But thanks for the suggestion.

[Chris Christenberry]

Chainsaw would be too harsh a cut at this point. I'm down to the hand planing stage. But thanks for the suggestion.

Yup, so "down to the final stage" point I started using my flat and concave spoke shaves. They seen to be working very well where I had sanded most of the stringy stuff off. I'll get some 36 grit sandpaper tomorrow and should be able to finish this up fairly easily. Just going to be one of those "go slow" kind of projects.

[steven c newman]

While you are at it, find some old "log chain", and wrap the base of the anvil with it.....helps reduce the RINGING the vise puts out....

BTW: came across this trailer at a Tractor Fest over Labor Day Weekend....
415541415542
That wee anvil in the cardboard box? $125.....all the hammers and such were out on a table..
415545

[Chris Christenberry]

I'm logged in, but can't see any of your pictures.

Oh, and I've got a 50# Vulcan for an anvil.....................it doesn't ring that loud.

[Marinus Loewensteijn]

If you are taking up black smithing then you might well have an angle grinder. Just get one of those chainsaw angle grinder disks and it will be done in no time. Here is one onePray: www.ebay.com/itm/4-Angle-Grinder-Disc-22-Tooth-Saw-Blade-Chain-Saw-for-Carving-Wood-Plastic/173958881367

[Chris Christenberry]

I have an angle grinder, but I've already got all the bark off the stump. A chainsaw blade would be too harsh at this point. I'm down to spoke shave level work.

[Mike Cornwall]

I put a handle on the far end of a cleaver using a bolt thru the hole that it hangs from. It can go straight but it’s better perpendicular like a coopers shave. I kinda like it better than a real drawknife but what do I know

[Oskar Sedell]

I would have kept on with the axe/hatchet down to the good wood. If it is sharp it is not hard to chop to a line, leaving a pretty nice surface. And since it is an anvil stump, I would have stopped there, and not bothered about planing/spokeshaving.

[steven c newman]

Once you add a "ring" of big staples around the stump, to hold all the hammers and tongs....

[Jerry Olexa]

Drawknife perfect for that...

[Pat Barry]

If its relatively dry you could burn off the outside crap eitjer using a torch or laying it and rotating it in hot coals, then take a wire brush to it when its cooled off