Sliding Table Saw Jigs ?

[Greg Parrish]

I’m new to my Felder KF500 and am just now starting to learn working with a slider versus my prior PM66 cabinet saw. other than a fritz and franz jig, and a deflector wedge, are there other jigs for doing things like finger/box joints? I’ve searched and didn’t find much but figured there must be a way to do this similar to the various jigs for cabinet saws (think Incra I-box).

I do realize you can do some things with the built in shaper, but tooling costs so much that it will take me years to build up my collection of shaper tooling beyond my Whitehill combi block and my Felder groover.

Thanks for any pointers or leads to jig plans or idea websites.

[Derek Cohen]

Greg, you could purchase this from Felder ...

https://i.postimg.cc/bNzcbR08/Felder-Mitre-Fence.jpg

I built my own version ...

https://i.postimg.cc/9Q9QgpkS/1-2a.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ZRbYRhqt/2a.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Wpfp2CLC/4a.jpg

I added a Wixey DRO for the fence to my K3 ..

https://i.postimg.cc/cHpwfJ0f/1a.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Greg Parrish]

Nice. That’s Derek. What is the benefit to that angle jig over just using the original miter cross cut fence?

also what wixey unit did you use? That looks handy.

Thanks.

[Mark e Kessler]

Note for the wixey or any other dro with an encoder track, you won’t be able to rotate the fence out of the way when needed. If you want to be able to rotate the fence you will need to use a dro with a magnetic encoder like a Fiama.

Mark


Nice. That’s Derek. What is the benefit to that angle jig over just using the original miter cross cut fence?

also what wixey unit did you use? That looks handy.

Thanks.

[Derek Cohen]

Nice. That’s Derek. What is the benefit to that angle jig over just using the original miter cross cut fence?

also what wixey unit did you use? That looks handy.

Thanks.

Greg, if you are cutting mitres, such as picture frames or any mitred joint that must be 90 degrees, the advantage of the mitre- over the crosscut fence is that it will always provide a combined 90 degree angle: you saw one side, and then the complementary adjoining side. The crosscut fence can be set for 45 degrees on one side only.

With regard the Wixey DRO (http://www.wixey.com/fence/), it attached to the fence lock with a magnet. It is therefore easy to lock and unlock. Since the DRO has a zero set ability, you can set up in seconds the high and low fence. No drama, and really useful when needing to move the fence in fractions of a mm.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[johnny means]

Also, adjusting the crosscut fence on most sliders is a bear.

[Mike King]

Also, adjusting the crosscut fence on most sliders is a bear.

I have no issue with my CF741.

Greg, you can make a jig to cut box joints. I drilled two bolt holes in a length of plywood for ¼ inch bolts at the height of the void on the crosscut extrusion -- get a length of bolt that will not extend past the face of the plywood. You will need to drill a recess to accept the nuts. Slide it into the extrusion. You can then cut a registration for a pin for a box joint jig. Works great.

I use a similar technique to fasten a piece of sacrificial scrap plywood to serve as a backer when cutting tenons on the shaper as well.

I've also made a square box to hold pieces vertically when I needed to rip miters that were at odd angles. You can move the crosscut fence extrusion over near the blade, or the shaper spindle, to provide a bit more support -- just be sure to check clearance (mine has now enriched with new features in it's shape...).

Mike

[Joe Calhoon]

I have a lot of shop made and purchased accessories for our slider, some get used a lot and others not so much but nice when you need them. The double miter is one of my favorites even though our saw has a very accurate cross mitering fence. The double miter is quick to set and great for small pieces. Holzwerken has some videos for a shop built version.
i work mostly solid wood.

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[Carl Beckett]

Thanks for this thread and sharing all the ideas.

Specific to the incra i-box jig, I modified a piece scrap so that the jig could be used directly on the slider - you just need a miter slot to register it. Also I modified an incra miter guide so it would fit the groove on the slider and use that as well (prefer the incra to adjusting the rather long crosscut guide that is on the outrigger).

Conceptually, I think most 'regular' fixtures and jigs can be modified to be used on the slider. Sometimes it is just a matter of removing the miter bar and instead clamping it to the sliding table, or onto an interim piece. And often there are other ways of doing things would be better, it is a different tool than the regular cabinet saw.

[Greg Parrish]

Carl, can you post pictures of your I-box jig setup when you have time? Thanks. Greg


Thanks for this thread and sharing all the ideas.

Specific to the incra i-box jig, I modified a piece scrap so that the jig could be used directly on the slider - you just need a miter slot to register it. Also I modified an incra miter guide so it would fit the groove on the slider and use that as well (prefer the incra to adjusting the rather long crosscut guide that is on the outrigger).

Conceptually, I think most 'regular' fixtures and jigs can be modified to be used on the slider. Sometimes it is just a matter of removing the miter bar and instead clamping it to the sliding table, or onto an interim piece. And often there are other ways of doing things would be better, it is a different tool than the regular cabinet saw.

[Mike King]

Thanks for this thread and sharing all the ideas.

Specific to the incra i-box jig, I modified a piece scrap so that the jig could be used directly on the slider - you just need a miter slot to register it. Also I modified an incra miter guide so it would fit the groove on the slider and use that as well (prefer the incra to adjusting the rather long crosscut guide that is on the outrigger).

Conceptually, I think most 'regular' fixtures and jigs can be modified to be used on the slider. Sometimes it is just a matter of removing the miter bar and instead clamping it to the sliding table, or onto an interim piece. And often there are other ways of doing things would be better, it is a different tool than the regular cabinet saw.

I made an insert for the T slot so that it fits snugly in the slot by milling a piece of cherry. In the top of the insert, I milled a grove the depth and width of a miter slot. It makes it easy to mount fixtures that require a miter slot on a traditional cabinet saw.

[Rick Potter]

Great idea Mike.

[Carl Beckett]

This is it, nothing magic. There is a spacer under the overhung part that doesnt show up, but just remove the bar and screw to a piece of baltic birch and clamp it to the table.

My miter slot is smaller than a standard miter (MM CU300 combo), so am unable to use a miter slot adapter. Instead I have to mill down miter bars to fit. I did some of wood and some of metal. The incra miter was modified in this way (could do the same on the i-box jig but just as easy to remove the bar and screw it to a board...). It works.

I have a tenoning jig I might do the same with, although have been cutting tenons in a different manner so havent done that one. But the same would be pretty easy, just remove the bar then screw it down to a board and clamp the board onto the sliding table.

In concept, all the miter bar/slot does for you on a cabinet saw is allow motion in a straight line (aligned to the blade). The sliding table already does this, so all you need to do is clamp the jig to the table and you have the same function. you do not have to use an interim piece of wood, sometimes you can just clamp directly to the table and square it against your slider miter.

Now that I have seen these frame/corner mitering setups, that will be a must do for me. Simple! Thanks for all the ideas!

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[Jim Becker]

Carl is correct that you can theoretically use the same or similar jigs fastened to the slider's wagon that you would use with the miter slot on a cabinet saw. The caveat is that for any jig that requires a dado blade set, the slider has to be capable of either running a traditional dado set (mine is) or the equivalent in the case of Felder. Felder's dado setup is "different" and not all their machines are compatible with it.

[Mark e Kessler]

Derek, not seeing how you can rotate the fence out of the way without hitting the encoder rail - what am I missing?

Mark


I have no issue with my CF741.

Greg, you can make a jig to cut box joints. I drilled two bolt holes in a length of plywood for ¼ inch bolts at the height of the void on the crosscut extrusion -- get a length of bolt that will not extend past the face of the plywood. You will need to drill a recess to accept the nuts. Slide it into the extrusion. You can then cut a registration for a pin for a box joint jig. Works great.

I use a similar technique to fasten a piece of sacrificial scrap plywood to serve as a backer when cutting tenons on the shaper as well.

I've also made a square box to hold pieces vertically when I needed to rip miters that were at odd angles. You can move the crosscut fence extrusion over near the blade, or the shaper spindle, to provide a bit more support -- just be sure to check clearance (mine has now enriched with new features in it's shape...).

Mike

[Greg Parrish]

Thanks for all of the feedback and pictures. It has taken me about three times reading through everything and studying the pictures for it all to start to sink in. I have a lot to learn but all of the pictures have me excited to build some of my own jigs. Thanks again as this will be a big help in my slider learning curve.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, not seeing how you can rotate the fence out of the way without hitting the encoder rail - what am I missing?

Mark

Mark, the rail is tucked underneath, and out of the way ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pXG0JMzV/IMG-3324.jpg
I epoxied a rare earth magnet to the fence hold down, and the box attaches to this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/vTGP3Q0T/IMG-3315.jpg

Connections below the rail ...

https://i.postimg.cc/ry9Zzrpr/IMG-3316.jpg

Chris gave me the idea for this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/JzspTY5N/IMG-3318.jpg

And the fence pulled half way back and rotated ...

https://i.postimg.cc/KvvqT8Ks/IMG-3319.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark e Kessler]

ah, I see so will work.

I still would like fence to go at least 180 so the bottom of the fence ends up being parallel (see pic) with the top at a min so I will still need to go with the fiamia mag strip unless I am still not getting it which is totally possibly...

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Mark, the rail is tucked underneath, and out of the way ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pXG0JMzV/IMG-3324.jpg
I epoxied a rare earth magnet to the fence hold down, and the box attaches to this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/vTGP3Q0T/IMG-3315.jpg

Connections below the rail ...

https://i.postimg.cc/ry9Zzrpr/IMG-3316.jpg

Chris gave me the idea for this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/JzspTY5N/IMG-3318.jpg

And the fence pulled half way back and rotated ...

https://i.postimg.cc/KvvqT8Ks/IMG-3319.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Pat Rice]

Greg, I think you and I got our Felder sliding table saws about the same time and are on the same path of learning. As has been suggested I’ve made a Fritz and Franz jig and it has been very helpful. I got Felder eccentric clamp with my saw but it is a pain to adjust, looking at modifying some Kreg clamps but really want to buy the Airtight clamps down the road. This is not a “jig but a huge plus for my workflow has been building this outfeed/work table past two weekends . When I built my home shop 20+ yrs ago I ran the dust collection underground for my Cabinet saw, had to modify things a little bit for the slider.
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[Greg Parrish]

Pat, nice table. I don’t have room to have the outfeed table on mine, and I have the power feeder in that space. That said, I wish I did have room for a dedicate table like yours as it looks awesome.

Im going to save a copy of your Fritz Franz jig picture as it looks fairly straight forward to build and I need to build one along with a deflector wedge to go beside the blade. Thanks.

[Pat Rice]

I built the deflector wedge but haven’t had a need to use it yet. Wood came from the pallet the saw was on. The handles I ordered from MicroJig
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[Greg Parrish]

Nice. I have the magnets sitting here but just need to take 10 minutes and put it together. :)

[Mike King]

Both of you should join the Felder Owner's Group on Yahoo if you have not yet. Everything I learned about using the slider came from the folk on that forum.

Mike

[Steve Hubbard]

Tenoning jig:

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I apologize, do not know how to rotate image.

[Pat Rice]

Thanks Mike, I joined the FELDER yahoo group several weeks ago but prefer the format of Sawmill Creek. I think there are more hobbyist moving towards sliders and Sawmill Creek is easier to access information on.

[Mike King]

Thanks Mike, I joined the FELDER yahoo group several weeks ago but prefer the format of Sawmill Creek. I think there are more hobbyist moving towards sliders and Sawmill Creek is easier to access information on.

SMC has it's place, but the files area of the FOG is quite valuable for any Felder owner. There are also many more experienced Felder owners on the FOG who can and do help.

Mike

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Pat, I find having a spacer helps with the clamp.

Setup your clamp so it clamps a piece properly, then with the clamp in the unclamped state, make a piece of wood that slips between the clamp and the work piece.

That now is your clamp setting jig, works on any thickness and makes putting the clamp to work a one step, no fuss process.............Rod.

[Carl Beckett]

THIS!! I want to be able to do this with my combo (MM300 Smart). But alas, the current fence attaches on a square channel, so no conducive for swinging out of the way so has to be taken off entirely every time I want to make space on the top.

It seems I need an after market fence that rides on a round guide bar and can be tilted up. Anyone have any suggestions? (I recall some older Unisaws may have a round guide bar.





And the fence pulled half way back and rotated ...

https://i.postimg.cc/KvvqT8Ks/IMG-3319.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark e Kessler]

Yes I get that, can the fence be rotated 180 deg like I have shown on mine? Or is it left in the air as shown in your pic which is a compromise

Mark



Mark, the rail is tucked underneath, and out of the way ...

https://i.postimg.cc/pXG0JMzV/IMG-3324.jpg
I epoxied a rare earth magnet to the fence hold down, and the box attaches to this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/vTGP3Q0T/IMG-3315.jpg

Connections below the rail ...

https://i.postimg.cc/ry9Zzrpr/IMG-3316.jpg

Chris gave me the idea for this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/JzspTY5N/IMG-3318.jpg

And the fence pulled half way back and rotated ...

https://i.postimg.cc/KvvqT8Ks/IMG-3319.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark e Kessler]

You could just buy the Felder or Hammer fence, Felder being the 50mm bar and the Hammer being the 40mm bar (I also think the 40mm is on the 500 series)

Mark


THIS!! I want to be able to do this with my combo (MM300 Smart). But alas, the current fence attaches on a square channel, so no conducive for swinging out of the way so has to be taken off entirely every time I want to make space on the top.

It seems I need an after market fence that rides on a round guide bar and can be tilted up. Anyone have any suggestions? (I recall some older Unisaws may have a round guide bar.

[Jim Becker]

Carl, it's interesting that you have a square fence rail on your machine...my S315WS slider has a round rail and I can (and do) tilt it up when that's appropriate for what I'm trying to do.

[Rick Potter]

My recently acquired '03 MM CU300 Smart also has a square tube. I would prefer the round tube also, but no luck. I doubt I will use the fence much anyway, and I have a nice spot to hang it nearby.

[Carl Beckett]

Carl, it's interesting that you have a square fence rail on your machine...my S315WS slider has a round rail and I can (and do) tilt it up when that's appropriate for what I'm trying to do.

It is one of my bigger peeves for this setup. I tend to switch back and forth a fair bit between stations (would definitely prefer separates, but my shop is used for a variety of project types including metalworking/mechanic and is squeezed for room, so I concede a compromise.

But it means taking the fence on/off a fair bit (sometimes simply to make room to cut a wider piece via the sliding table). I do not have a place to hang the fence when not being used, so it gets put on the floor. Even put a ding on the end once that had to be cleaned up with a file to make a smooth surface again.

I think even if it was round I might need to remove it to switch to the planer mode, since the tables need to swing up/out. Maybe. Will study it some more... if a fence could be tilted up and enable the top to be clear, and at the same time allow the planer mode tables to swing out, it would be worth an upgrade.

Still learning how to work in larger blocks of wip. But to be honest, that takes away some of the satisfaction (I dont really enjoy the process engineering/planning aspect, gain more satisfaction from more freestyle approach). This combo does allow me to get more equipment into my shop.

[Jim Becker]

It occurs to me that for a full combo, the square rail may just be the best way to have it removable. The round rail fence (SCM/Minimax) could only come off by sliding it all the way to the end after the associated stops were removed that prevent the fence from coming off. The ability to tilt it up as in a photo above is an accommodation to allow for crosscutting something without interfering with the fence...when the actual fence is slit back and the assembly tipped back, everything can be below the surface of the saw table.

[Carl Beckett]

This weekend I added a T-track to the top edge of my F-F jig, and made a couple stops. it was quick.

Then realized, I could use my INCRA miter as the back half of the F-F and have stops already built in. In fact, I could simply use the miter and trap wood to the stock cross cut fence, instant F-F jig including flip stops. The only thing missing might be some no slip strips (stick on sandpaper would do this without giving up squareness.

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[Derek Cohen]

Brilliant!

Reverse the F&F jig on my K3, where the crosscut fence is at the foot of the slider!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

That's a good idea, Carl. Just be sure the stops/scales on both sides are calibrated identically.

[Greg Parrish]

Well poop. I let the guy that bought my PM66 have my Incra 1000HD since everyone said there would be no use for it with a slider. Should have kept it I guess.

[Mark e Kessler]

With the wixy appears it cannot fully be rotated out of the way as shown below as I first thought...

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Yes I get that, can the fence be rotated 180 deg like I have shown on mine? Or is it left in the air as shown in your pic which is a compromise

Mark