Craigslist bucket

[Jason Buresh]

So there was a bucket of tools for sale on Craigslist that I picked up for $5. I was like a kid on Christmas going through this thing. There was some mechanics tools, old power drill, some gardening shears, but there was also 2 hand saws, one is a disston, a Stanley brace with a few bits, what I think is a Yankee drill, couple rasps, and what I am most excited about, what I think is an old timber framing chisel. There's no handle and the edge needs to be reground, but it looks perfectly useable with a new edge.

[Jim Koepke]

Nice haul, the Yankee brace looks like the 2101 the Bell System used to use. Like wise on the Stanley/Yankee #41 push drill.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Yup. #2101 Brace. The best there is as far as I'm concerned. Good shape too. Too bad the slick has been mushroomed so bad. Perhaps it can be repaired?

[Jim Koepke]

Yup. #2101 Brace. The best there is as far as I'm concerned. Good shape too. Too bad the slick has been mushroomed so bad. Perhaps it can be repaired?

It is often possible to rehab a mushroomed chisel socket without resorting to welding on new material. Here is how one of mine was handled:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?245479

This was a much smaller chisel, but the restoration would go about the same.

The trick is finding a way to rig up something to use like an anvil.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Hmmm...BTDT...
415501415502415503
Handle was too long, though...gave it a shorter one...and...
Used it last month or so...
415504
Half-lap needed flattened.

[Patrick Kane]

I cant read your square due to glare, but i assume its 2" wide? Looks like a good rehab, how does it perform? Even after you cleaned it up that thing looks like its been through a war. I keep waiting around for a cheap slick. Its something i wouldnt use too often, which is why i dont want to spend $100+ on one, but its also a chisel i want to have in the tool cabinet.

[Jim Koepke]

I cant read your square due to glare, but i assume its 2" wide? Looks like a good rehab, how does it perform? Even after you cleaned it up that thing looks like its been through a war. I keep waiting around for a cheap slick. Its something i wouldnt use too often, which is why i dont want to spend $100+ on one, but its also a chisel i want to have in the tool cabinet.

Hi Patrick, If you use ebay, set up a search on chisels and check regularly. You can add a few qualifiers. You could even set up different searches with different qualifiers. It sometimes helps to catch the odd ball with a bigger net. Here is a picture of my 2" Stanley and a 3/8" chisel:

415505

The handles were made for these from recycled parts of a chair. My recollection is with shipping the total was less than $25 for the 2" Stanley.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Just did a quick search and found a few good candidates on ebay searching > 2 inch chisel <.

jtk

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I like the framing chisel! :D

Over-all, a very nice haul.

[Jim Koepke]

While looking for an old post, this post from Harry Strasil came up:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?112339

It is an easy way to quickly gauge the taper of a chisel's socket.

Be sure to read the last post for added instruction on its use.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Square is a 6"....chisel measures 1-15/16" wide....

[Jason Buresh]

So it was late last night when I was rummaging through everything. I looked a little closer today and both the drills are marked bell system, and it is a genuine Yankee drill number 41 (even some bits in the handle) and it is a Stanley brace. He timber framing slick has an embarrassing edge on it. I'm new to the hand tool world, but is the socket not supposed to have the flare? I have an anvil and could try pounding it out cold. I will definitely try the tapering jig. What material should I make the handle from? Is there a specific length it should be? Can I make it with hand tools or do I need a lathe? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for all the answers!415529415530415531

[Andrew Pitonyak]

So it was late last night when I was rummaging through everything. I looked a little closer today and both the drills are marked bell system, and it is a genuine Yankee drill number 41 (even some bits in the handle) and it is a Stanley brace. He timber framing slick has an embarrassing edge on it. I'm new to the hand tool world, but is the socket not supposed to have the flare? I have an anvil and could try pounding it out cold. I will definitely try the tapering jig. What material should I make the handle from? Is there a specific length it should be? Can I make it with hand tools or do I need a lathe? Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for all the answers!

First thing I would do would be try to remove some rust. I have not looked at the link for how to deal with the socket, but, you probably can create the handle without a lathe, but, it would be a bit more difficult. Something like trying to shave it down or cut it down. I saw a thing about making handles by cutting octagons, but then you would need to cut tapered octagons; that sounds tricky, but possible I suppose.

If you lived closer, I would sharpen that chisel for you. You could just mail it to me, but, the cost of shipping would be greater than you paid for the chisel I think. Before you think about sharpening, decide what angle you want on that thing. Pretty sure you do not want it at say 15 degrees :D Might shave pine end grain but would fail for what ever it was really meant to do! A mortise chisel is usually 35 to 40 degrees I think. I do not have a good answer, but, you need to know that before you decide to sharpen. The existing edge looks like it will not be useful in see what it used to be.

I had hoped that the robert sorby site would list angles, but, it does not:

https://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/woodworking/timber-framers-chisels/f28525l-framing-chisel

[Joe A Faulkner]

The bucket is a tool too! :)
For $5 you did well.

[Jim Koepke]

I'm new to the hand tool world, but is the socket not supposed to have the flare? I have an anvil and could try pounding it out cold.

If your anvil has a small enough horn to smooth out the socket, that would likely be your easiest route. You may want to file, grind or sand the end. You would be surprised how often one's hand moves over the junction between metal and wood in use.

If you end up buying more chisels or a group of chisels you are likely to end up with a few more needing socket rehabilitation. Here are a couple more threads on socket rehab:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?252884

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?212099


I will definitely try the tapering jig. What material should I make the handle from? Is there a specific length it should be? Can I make it with hand tools or do I need a lathe?

As others have said you do not need a lathe if you can shape the wood some other way. For me it was easy to find turned pieces from old furniture for handles.

The material for the handle depends on what is inexpensive in your area. If ash is available it is good, hickory is very good. If you are going to only be using it as a slick and pushing by hand then other woods could be used. If you do want to use a figured or exotic wood, you may want to wait until you have a lathe.

The length of the handle also should be determined by what you will be doing with this chisel. Mallet work might need a shorter handle than paring work.

You might consider putting your location in your profile. There may be a member close to you who would be happy to help you rehab this chisel or turn a handle for you.

jtk

[Phil Mueller]

Jason, here’s a link to a thread where I made a handle without a lathe. Many use this method, but without a lathe, it does take some patience.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?253169-No-lathe-replacement-chisel-handle

Nice haul by the way!

[Jerry Olexa]

Ya did good!!!!! Good haul.....A day well spent!!!

[Jason Buresh]

Jim,

I live in Northeast Wisconsin. I have updated my profile.

Phil,

Thanks for the link and nice job on the handle. I enjoy using hand tools vs my power tools. I like the the peacefulness and not having dust spray in my face and worrying about a finger going in the table saw.

[Jason Buresh]

So I took some steel wool to the rust on the chisel and it was made by the union hardware company in Torrington Connecticut

[Jim Koepke]

So I took some steel wool to the rust on the chisel and it was made by the union hardware company in Torrington Connecticut

One of my favorite chisels, 1-1/2", is from Union Hardware Company. They are actually a very good chisel, imo.

415617

The Union chisel is on the left. It is actually a bevel edge chisel lying on the bench bevel down. The ash handle was made for paring and light mallet work. Here it is in action:

415618

It does a great job trimming shoulders and cheeks.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

So I will take some pictures when I get home, but I was able to remove the wooden plug from the socket of the chisel. What a bear that was! I tried burying a screw in it and pulling, but eventually I had to drill a hole in the center and remove everything with a 1/4" chisel. That was some good wood because the walls did not want to collapse. The mushrooming appears to be pretty minimal compared to others I have seen. It is maybe a 1/16th of an inch on the inside and out. It seems to have a decent fit on the end of my anvil but I'm not a blacksmith so I could be wrong. Is it best just to clean up the edges with a file seeing as it's pretty minor?

[Jason Buresh]

So here is the socket. I tried some filing but I haven't been to rough with it.i want to save the makers logo but I've been starting to think it way be easier to remove the part of the socket with the mushrooming. Or maybe I should find a local blacksmith

[Jim Koepke]

Will the socket fit over the horn of your anvil?

In the past others have mentioned wrapping the chisel in a damp cloth while heating the socket with a torch to reform the socket with a hammer.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Jim,

The socket does fit over the horn. It's not the tightest fit but it fits. Should I add some heat and pound it out?

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

The socket does fit over the horn. It's not the tightest fit but it fits. Should I add some heat and pound it out?

That would be my choice. The socket to horn doesn't need to be a tight fit. What is wanted is a solid place to hit against as a backing to the hammer.

Maybe try a few hits with a hammer (large ball peen or sledge) to get a feel for it. Heat may not be needed. The socket should be mild steel.

You do want to avoid getting the working part of the chisel heated.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Well here is my progress after about an hour. It's better, but a lot of work to do yet. I did pound on it cold with the ball peen and the 4lb blacksmith hammer. It was moving, but I did try a little heat. I didn't get it glowing red but warm enough it helped smooth it out a little. I wrapped a wet rag around the blade, it got warm, but not hot enough that I couldn't hold my hand to it.

[Jim Koepke]

It looks pretty good. Is there a lip around the inside? That can cause a problem if it digs into a handle while you are trying to fit it. If it is a lip, a bit of flat filing across the top may get it to fall off.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Yes, there is a lip. I have a round file I was going to smooth that with but ran out of time. Still have a way to go

[Jim Koepke]

Here are almost all of my chisels that came with mushroomed sockets:

416026

Most of these came to me in lot purchases or were given to me.

The three on the left are pretty badly beat up.

The two on the left were ground to be skew chisels.

jtk