Stanley Bailey No 5 from the 60's

[Jason Buresh]

So locally there is a Stanley Bailey No 5 Jack plane that honestly looks like someone took it out of the box and set it on the mantel for 60 years. The Stanley logo is colored in yellow which I thought was odd. It says it was made between 1962 and 1967. They are asking $45 for it. Is this a good buy or is this a time period where Stanley's quality went downhill? I am new to the planer game and I am more focused on buying useable tools than collector grade tools but the consensus seems to be that pre ww2 planes are the ones to buy. Opinions?

[Andrew Seemann]

Some people really get into the age and "type" of their planes and some people don't. Myself, I don't really know what "type" mine are. I have a rough idea of their age, but that is about it. Some folks really like pre WWII stuff, some like Sweetheart only, some like 3 patent dates, some like WWII the best, and some just want the thing to work well. My four favorite user planes are from WWII and just after.

If it is in great condition, chances are it will be a good plane and will not require a lot of tuning up, a big plus, even if it is from the '60s. A plane in really good condition from then will likely work better than one from the "golden era" of planes that is beat up and in need of a bunch of reconditioning. Some might say $45 is high, but at the same time you are saving a bunch of time not cleaning up something that sat in an unheated barn for a few decades.

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Only way to tell if it is useable is to use it (my opinion anyway).

If you go to eBay and look at sold listings, you can get an idea of what similar planes are selling for. Depends a little bit on where you live (some guys apparently spend most of their time beating off hordes of people who want to pay them to take unused antiques). Where I live, I would think that would be a fair price.

If you try it and don’t like it, or it will take more work than you want to do to get it tuned up, I would guess you can sell it for that without much trouble.

[Jim Koepke]

So locally there is a Stanley Bailey No 5 Jack plane that honestly looks like someone took it out of the box and set it on the mantel for 60 years. The Stanley logo is colored in yellow which I thought was odd. It says it was made between 1962 and 1967. They are asking $45 for it. Is this a good buy or is this a time period where Stanley's quality went downhill? I am new to the planer game and I am more focused on buying useable tools than collector grade tools but the consensus seems to be that pre ww2 planes are the ones to buy. Opinions?

If you are able to handle the plane, take a small piece of wood with you to check the sole, frog and blade alignment.

If the blade can take a reasonable shaving, remember the blade may not be sharp, from both side equally the plane may be good to go. If you are good with your eyes, site down the sole to see if there is any obvious warpage or other untoward traits.

Depending on the quality of the casting, $45 is not a bad price in the condition you describe.

In some years the castings look to be poorly done with very coarse molds.

My preference is for planes made before 1929 due to my fondness for the low knob. In following years Stanley planes in the Bailey and Bedrock lines had rings around the base for the knob which required work on the knobs to fit a low knob.

One of my later #5 planes, WW II years, has been set up as a scrub plane. It is the only plane in my shop with an ogee style frog. My preference is also for a full flat faced surface on my frog instead of the lesser surface of the ogee style frogs.

Just because it is my preference doesn't mean it should make a difference to you when it comes to a usable tool.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Only way to tell if it is useable is to use it (my opinion anyway).

If you go to eBay and look at sold listings, you can get an idea of what similar planes are selling for. Depends a little bit on where you live (some guys apparently spend most of their time beating off hordes of people who want to pay them to take unused antiques). Where I live, I would think that would be a fair price.

If you try it and don’t like it, or it will take more work than you want to do to get it tuned up, I would guess you can sell it for that without much trouble.

It seems like in my area that anything good and decently priced is snatched up in under an hour, people think there junk is worth as much as gold just because it says Stanley, or the other brands are selling for just as much money as Stanley's. And anything good is at least a 3 hour drive. There is a very rusty #5 with the high knob I believe post ww2, on Craigslist right now for $50 that the seller states "should clean up". And I mean it is rusty. He said it was found in a toolbox but I'm pretty sure that toolbox was at the bottom of a lake. It's been for sale for 3 weeks unsurprisingly. I was actually really surprised at the price tag of this plane. It's at an antique store so I doubt I could try it. It's locked in a glass case. I recently bought a new Irwin Record plane after frustration in the used plane game thinking "How bad can it be?" Well, it was bad. It was promptly returned.

[Jason Buresh]

If you are able to handle the plane, take a small piece of wood with you to check the sole, frog and blade alignment.

If the blade can take a reasonable shaving, remember the blade may not be sharp, from both side equally the plane may be good to go. If you are good with your eyes, site down the sole to see if there is any obvious warpage or other untoward traits.

Depending on the quality of the casting, $45 is not a bad price in the condition you describe.

In some years the castings look to be poorly done with very coarse molds.

My preference is for planes made before 1929 due to my fondness for the low knob. In following years Stanley planes in the Bailey and Bedrock lines had rings around the base for the knob which required work on the knobs to fit a low knob.

One of my later #5 planes, WW II years, has been set up as a scrub plane. It is the only plane in my shop with an ogee style frog. My preference is also for a full flat faced surface on my frog instead of the lesser surface of the ogee style frogs.

Just because it is my preference doesn't mean it should make a difference to you when it comes to a usable tool.

jtk

Jim,

Thank you again for all the knowledge. I really enjoy reading your replies.

I may be able to bring in a straight edge to check the sole. The blade looks original and I can sharpen irons that give me satisfactory results, though someone who has been doing this for years would probably say otherwise. The casting looked nice and heavy actually, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's straight I guess.

Please forgive my lack of knowledge but what is an ogee style frog? Is there a disadvantage to them?

[Jim Koepke]

It's at an antique store so I doubt I could try it. It's locked in a glass case.

Most antique shops will let you examine items, they just want to be watching when you do. If you do not ask if you can inspect the piece, you will never know.

Make sure the person knows you intend to purchase if it meets your expectations.

Often when shopping my statement to the person in a shop is about my interest being only in looking and not buying. Usually, if they are not busy they will take something out of a case for me to inspect.

After inspecting an item and talking with the shop person one can often get a feel for the business. If you decide to buy you may ask if the price can be brought down. Otherwise just pay up and be happy.

jtk

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Where are you located? Would PM, but I guess you cannot PM as a member.

[Jason Buresh]

Where are you located? Would PM, but I guess you cannot PM as a member.

I'm in the northern half of WI

[Nicholas Lawrence]

Was thinking perhaps a member could help you set it up. Off the top of my head I am not thinking of anyone up there though.

[Jason Buresh]

Was thinking perhaps a member could help you set it up. Off the top of my head I am not thinking of anyone up there though.

Thanks! I didn't actually purchase it yet but I am going tonight to look it over again and possibly purchase

[Jason Buresh]

So I went and looked at the plane closer tonight and I didn't walk out with it. The blade was ground on an angle and there were some scratches in the sole. In the display case it looked like it had never been used. I think both could be fixed but is it still worth the money?

[Stew Denton]

Jason, i would not buy it, as there are much better planes around for the same money. By the 60s, Stanley had joined the race to the bottom, quality wise, on their planes. Their Bailey planes from about 1910 or so until maybe about 1930 appeal a great deal more to me, and I think any of the guys above would probably agree with me on that. To identify those, type in "Stanley Bailey Type Study" and use that search to look at some of the sites that come up.

I have read that the Stanley folks that made their block planes never got the memo on quality, however, and Stanley made good block planes way past the 60s dates.

Some of the guys like Jim and Steven will do quite well with even earlier planes, but I have more trouble adjusting them than they do. Any Bedrock, if you can find one very cheaply (not likely) will also be better than the 60s Stanley planes.

I have a type 19 Bailey that I believe was made in the late 40s up to maybe the late 50s. It lacks the better fit and feature of the
Bailey planes mentioned above, but the basics are still there, and it can be tuned up to a very good user. (It was my dad's.)

The Bailey planes made after about 1930 up until world war 2 were still pretty darned good planes, but the frog where the iron rested was skeletonized, whereas the earlier Bailey planes were not. The post 1930 design was cheaper to machine and still very acceptable, but the pre 1930 design was a bit better.

That said, you still want to check out the condition, as some alluded to above. A 1930s Bailey in good shape is a better buy than the more desirable (IMHO) 1910 to 1930 versions, if the later is a rust bucket. In addition to points made above, check out the condition of the iron. If the iron is rusted and pitted to a significant amount on the business end, you will either need to restore it or buy a new iron. If the pitting is deep enough to require a ton of work on a stone or grinder, I would walk away from it, unless the price is way down into the bottom price range, as you will likely need to cut off the iron until it is above the pitted area or buy a replacement iron.

At any rate, I greatly respect some of the posters above, but would still advise you not to buy that plane. Again, study the type studies, and buy one of the much earlier Stanleys. Also if Steven chimes in, he can tell you about the early Millers Falls planes, and these were also very good planes to my understanding, but I don't know enough about them to buy one, so I only buy the Stanley planes since I know them.

I would look for planes at flea markets, garage sales, and pawn shops, and you should be able to find a good candidate for that $45 or much less. You might find one on the auction site for that, and there are plenty of them there, but I think it unlikely you will get one delivered to you for that money, but if you wait long enough, you just might.

Regards,

Stew

[justin sherriff]

How close are you to Stoughton WI? there is a mid west tool collectors association meeting there on oct 20 https://mwtca.org/new-tool-meeting-page/upcoming-area-metting-date-locations/
you can pick up nice stuff at fare prices.
Here are some good links of online places with old tools for sale https://www.woodbywright.com/antique-tools
You can place a WTB (want to buy) add in the classifieds on here. being a new wood worker I am sure some one has a good plane they would sell for a nice price. That is where I would try.

A good working #5 should not set you back that much.

[Jason Buresh]

How close are you to Stoughton WI? there is a mid west tool collectors association meeting there on oct 20 https://mwtca.org/new-tool-meeting-page/upcoming-area-metting-date-locations/
you can pick up nice stuff at fare prices.
Here are some good links of online places with old tools for sale https://www.woodbywright.com/antique-tools
You can place a WTB (want to buy) add in the classifieds on here. being a new wood worker I am sure some one has a good plane they would sell for a nice price. That is where I would try.

A good working #5 should not set you back that much.

Stoughton is a hike but it's not a terrible drive. I will have to check that out!

[Jason Buresh]

Jason, i would not buy it, as there are much better planes around for the same money. By the 60s, Stanley had joined the race to the bottom, quality wise, on their planes. Their Bailey planes from about 1910 or so until maybe about 1930 appeal a great deal more to me, and I think any of the guys above would probably agree with me on that. To identify those, type in "Stanley Bailey Type Study" and use that search to look at some of the sites that come up.

I have read that the Stanley folks that made their block planes never got the memo on quality, however, and Stanley made good block planes way past the 60s dates.

Some of the guys like Jim and Steven will do quite well with even earlier planes, but I have more trouble adjusting them than they do. Any Bedrock, if you can find one very cheaply (not likely) will also be better than the 60s Stanley planes.

I have a type 19 Bailey that I believe was made in the late 40s up to maybe the late 50s. It lacks the better fit and feature of the
Bailey planes mentioned above, but the basics are still there, and it can be tuned up to a very good user. (It was my dad's.)

The Bailey planes made after about 1930 up until world war 2 were still pretty darned good planes, but the frog where the iron rested was skeletonized, whereas the earlier Bailey planes were not. The post 1930 design was cheaper to machine and still very acceptable, but the pre 1930 design was a bit better.

That said, you still want to check out the condition, as some alluded to above. A 1930s Bailey in good shape is a better buy than the more desirable (IMHO) 1910 to 1930 versions, if the later is a rust bucket. In addition to points made above, check out the condition of the iron. If the iron is rusted and pitted to a significant amount on the business end, you will either need to restore it or buy a new iron. If the pitting is deep enough to require a ton of work on a stone or grinder, I would walk away from it, unless the price is way down into the bottom price range, as you will likely need to cut off the iron until it is above the pitted area or buy a replacement iron.

At any rate, I greatly respect some of the posters above, but would still advise you not to buy that plane. Again, study the type studies, and buy one of the much earlier Stanleys. Also if Steven chimes in, he can tell you about the early Millers Falls planes, and these were also very good planes to my understanding, but I don't know enough about them to buy one, so I only buy the Stanley planes since I know them.

I would look for planes at flea markets, garage sales, and pawn shops, and you should be able to find a good candidate for that $45 or much less. You might find one on the auction site for that, and there are plenty of them there, but I think it unlikely you will get one delivered to you for that money, but if you wait long enough, you just might.

Regards,

Stew

Stew, thanks for the reply. I will save my money and be patient. I agree with the people above that it may not be a bad plane but I will wait for better.

[steven c newman]

Well...I'll keep an eye out this weekend.....West Liberty, OH. has a Tractor Fest going on during Labor Day Weekend. Last year, I walked about 2 miles during one day...came home with an "arm load" of goodies....Took most of the day looking at all the vendors set up there....

IF the #5 is still japaned Black...and not Blue....should be a decent plane. Stanley irons are actually easy to reshape....into square to the plane....or give them a slight to heavy camber.. In 1962, Stanley crimped the infamous Whale Tail down. There was a period during the late 60s, when they wore a Maroon ( called Cardovan ) paint job.

Kind of hard to mess up a Jack plane, and they are about the easiest to rehab back to life.

As to Millers Falls....look for their 2 piece lever cap....if it has the one piece ( like a Stanley)...walk away. And..the irons on the type 1 through type 4 are actually thicker than a Stanley iron. Millers Falls started making planes about 1929....and until 1955, they were as good as the best Stanley ones....the Type 5 was a bit cheap, ugly, and not finished as well....and had the single piece lever cap...

[Nicholas Lawrence]

The tool collectors meeting is a really good suggestion. I always go to the local Patina events when I can, and in the early days rarely came away without something I thought was a really good deal. Now I have pretty much what I need and purchases fall into the “want” category rather than an actual need.

Dealers are going to sell at dealer prices (they have to make a living like everybody else), but if they are honest they will give you an education about what you are looking at and tell you the potential issues. I would expect a mix of non-dealer guys with some good stuff at good prices, and guys with decent stuff at so-so prices. There will be a lot in one place though, and it is better than rolling the dice on eBay where you cannot really look at what is being offered.

I should be clear that I do not know that a 60’s No. 5 with yellow paint on the lever cap is a good user. I just think the only way to know is to use it. It might be a good tool that someone has abused, or might be a bad tool that is just a bad tool. Even if it is a golden age tool (whatever that is to you) it might not be a good user. Some golden age tools slipped through quality control and still look new because they would not work correctly and back then people just did not throw things away.

[Jim Koepke]

So I went and looked at the plane closer tonight and I didn't walk out with it. The blade was ground on an angle and there were some scratches in the sole. In the display case it looked like it had never been used. I think both could be fixed but is it still worth the money?

The blade being ground at an angle caught my eye.

It might have been done on purpose to counteract a misaligned face on the frog.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Usually, ones like that I have rehabbed, were because previous owners did not KNOW how to sharpen....and the angle just grew over time...

I figure after about 1-4 hours in my shop, the OP's No. 5 Stanley would look like new, and even work like it should when new. Doesn't take all that long to do.

Mail tends to get here just after lunch....so...open the box, rehab the plane...test drive the finished plane, with the iron sharp....then have Supper. But, then I am Retired, so I have all the time I need to work on such things. Plane would then go back into the box it was mailed in, and sent out the next day's mail....with a return label attached.

[Jason Buresh]

Ok friends I am going to pass on they type 20. I now have an opportunity though to buy a type 13, 1931-1932 in decent shape for $30. Is that a better deal?

[lowell holmes]

You might try a Hock Iron in the plane. You will be pleased if you do. I have Hock Irons and breakers in my Bedrock planes.

[steven c newman]

Yep...go for it!

[justin sherriff]

Ok friends I am going to pass on they type 20. I now have an opportunity though to buy a type 13, 1931-1932 in decent shape for $30. Is that a better deal?
$30 in good shape go for it.

[Stew Denton]

I am with Steven, if it is a genuine type 13 (1925 to 1928) according to the Rexmill type study, it is a good one.

IF you garage sale a long time or hit enough flea markets you might find one of the others from that golden era that may be SLIGHTLY more desirable (which of those are the most desirable is a HIGHLY subjective choice and all folks do NOT agree on which are the best.) IF you go to enough garage sales and flea markets you will almost certainly find a bit better price.

I stress the word IF in the above paragraph, because you might also look a long time and NOT find a better deal. You might also look a lot for 2 years to save $15 or $20 on a plane. How much is your time worth to you? I look at the auction site often enough to think you will NOT find a deal that good on it hardly ever, normally you will pay well more that $30 for that plane there.

If it were me, and I wanted to actually get started using such a plane rather than spend a lot of time looking for a better deal I would go for it, as Steven said.

In my view, that $30 is a fair and reasonably good price for a type 13 in good shape in my humble opinion, if it is really a type 13.

If I were you I would look at the Rexmill site, if you go there it will take you a bit of careful looking to find his type study, but once you find it you will find it is one of the best type studies IMHO. You can then compare the plane you are looking at to the type study to verify what the type # is.

If you look at enough old planes you will find a number of what we here call "Frankenplanes." Stanley did not make planes by "type number," they used the parts on hand, thus you might find a type 13 part on a type 12 or type 14 plane, and also when a part on a plane got broken by being dropped, etc., Stanley would sell a part that would work, and often it was from the current stock. These things are routine, and show up from time to time. This is not a cause of concern and should not hinder you from buying a good plane. If you are a user like a lot of us, how the plane works is far more important than if it is "true to type."

Steven's answer was short and sweet and to the point. I took longer to explain things a bit, but Steven is right on the money to my view, I just flushed out his answer a bit.

Hope you do well.

Stew

[Stew Denton]

Jason, I did not read you question carefully before replying. What you asked is: "Is that a better deal?" (The question was not "should I go for it," which was the question I answered.)

The answer to your question is the same as the answer to the question: "Does the sun come up in the East?" Your darned tootin, it is a better type plane at a better price...you win all the way around.

Stew

[Jason Buresh]

Sorry I realized I made a typo and it is a type 15. According to the age guide it looks like it was made 1931-1932. I will contact the seller and see what happens. Thanks for all the guidance everyone!

[Jim Koepke]

A type 15 at $30 is still a good deal as long as it does have the old style frog.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

The type study is here:

http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/typing/typing.htm

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

If the 1931 one comes apart completely -no frozen screws or parts- and isn't beat to h#ll and isn't missing pieces, it will probably work just fine for a jack plane, and $30 isn't a bad price if it is in average condition and not full of rust.

One thing also to consider, is that jack planes don't often need to be the best planes in your arsenal, depending on how you use them. I'm rather picky about smoothing planes, but my two main jack planes are set up to remove material fast. One is set up with a wide mouth; I think it is Revonoc or something like that. The other is a WWII (I think) Stanley. That one is set up to be able to take finer cuts, but nothing like a smoothing plane. Either one would be quite at home shaving down a door or a board for my deck or face joining wood too wide for my jointer. I also have about 4 more sitting on a shelf waiting to be cleaned up one of these days, but that is another story. I still can't turn down a $5 garage sale plane in workable condition:)

[Jason Buresh]

Sounds good. It is in nice condition according to the pictures! Very minimal rust, and looks like it has a corrugated sole wether that's good or not. I will jump on it. Once I get that one I will be looking for a number 7 or number 8 and I should have a decent working set, although my number 4 leaves a little to be desired. I received a no 4 Stanley handyman from my boss for free and it's practically brand new. It works well for what it is but doesn't fell as well built as the older ones. Andrew, I will have to keep hunting for the elusive $5 rummage sale plane.

[Jim Koepke]

Like Andrew, there is more than one jack plane in my shop.

If you count the low angle jack, there are five #5 size planes in my shop. There are also two #5-1/4 size and one #5-1/2 size. One each of the #5s and #5-1/4s are set up with heavily cambered blades for use as scrub planes. The #5-1/2 came with a cambered blade which has been replaced with a straight ground blade.

They all come in handy for different needs.

A corrugated sole is preferred by some, doesn't make much difference.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Jason, How about ponying up $6 to become a contributor so you can post some pictures?

Seeing the images with a post can also be helpful with posts like this:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373-Fettling-A-Plane-from-Junker-to-Jointer

My $21.25 #7 Is one of my favorite rehabilitation efforts.

This is how it looked when it got home:

415196

Most of the dust had been brushed off before this image was taken.

The woman at the antique mall let me take it apart at the counter for inspection. The blade was in bad shape but the rest was all good.

This is how it looked after a clean up and some paint:

415197

The little chip at the front of the toe was smoothed with a file and isn't a problem.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Jim,

Well I saddled up and am a member now. I'll try to post some pictures here

[Jason Buresh]

Well it looks like the pictures worked. They are asking $30 for it. From the info I can find from everyone it appears to me to be about a type 15 made 1931-32

[lowell holmes]

I would buy it. You can replace the old japanning with black automotive paint, put a Hock Iron and Breaker in it and have a keeper plane.
I have three Bedrock planes with Hock irons and breakers and they perform really good.
It is a fun project.

[Jim Koepke]

Well it looks like the pictures worked. They are asking $30 for it. From the info I can find from everyone it appears to me to be about a type 15 made 1931-32

The indicator for quick ID are a raised ring at the knob, old style frog and no patent date.

Type 14 still has a patent date. Type 16 changed the frog to what is known as the ogee frog from the curves at the top. The face of the frog is a skeleton, as another poster mentioned, of its former full flat face.

Here is an old kettle of frogs from Brass City Records (if my memory is working):

415208

Sadly Walt left this world a few years ago and the site is not active now.

jtk

[Stew Denton]

Jim,

That picture is one of the best quick references I have ever seen. Thanks for posting it.

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

That picture is one of the best quick references I have ever seen. Thanks for posting it.

Stew

My pleasure Stew.

One thing this image does not have is the difference between the late and early type 9 frogs. The later type 9 frogs look more like the frogs of type 10 or later without the adjustment hardware.

Here is an old post on that subject for anyone who is interested:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?131234

It appears the configuration was a work in progress until the sweet spot in casting was found.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Well I asked the seller if he would be willing to meet me at a public location that was a short drive from his house to make the swap and he got pretty mad at me for asking so needless to say I did not get the plane. Oh well, the hunt goes on. Sorry to waste everyone's time but there is a lot of good information in this thread and I have learned a lot and know what to look for now. Thanks everyone for your time.

[Stew Denton]

Jason,

No need to be sorry, you asked a question that may apply to a lot of folks, so it was good info for all of us. Hopefully the post will help you with your continued search. The picture Jim posted of the frogs of the different Stanley Bailey plane types is one of the quickest guides I have seen.

If I can figure out how to print it off I may do just that. I don't know though, I don't need any more planes at this point, but you never know.

I printed off the section of the Rexmill type study that applied to the type range I was interested in years ago, and it was a great help to me. The nice thing about the Rexmill study is that you don't have to take the plane apart to identify the type.

Regards,

Stew

[steven c newman]

Happen to have a spare No. 5 sitting around....and a spare Millers Falls No. 14 ( same as a #5) Hmmm...price of shipping? As both have been rehabbed into users....

[Jason Buresh]

Steve,

I would definitely be interested if you are willing. I will send you a message

[steven c newman]

Have read and replied...

[steven c newman]

Ok...2 jack planes...
415243
Stanley No. 5 in front, Millers Falls No. 14 in back...
415244
Both have the frog adjust bolts...
415245
No. 14's sole..
415246
Seems to work...The stanley has a cambered iron, though..
415247
And a few logos...
415248
Stanley will need a new rear handle, maybe..been using it as is.
415249
Both of these are spares.

[steven c newman]

At the Tractor Fest..turned down a $10 Craftsman/ Millers Falls #5 sized plane.....didn't care for the 1 piece "Craftsman" Lever cap, and the top of the tote was missing....

Picked a Type 7/8 No. 6 instead...same price, too...spares box to provide the missing parts...
415361415362415363
Rather dirty right now....might take a day to clean up....

[Jason Buresh]

So this past weekend I was at my parents cabin up north and happened to stop by a rummage sale. I found this Craftsman no 5 for a dollar. I brought it home and put a fresh edge on the blade and it has been making shavings. Should be a good tool to learn with.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like it works.

For a buck, it is hard to go wrong.

jtk

[Andrew Seemann]

That should work well. That vintage Craftsman would have been made by someone reputable like Sargent, Millers Falls, or possibly Stanley. If you can pick up Craftsman planes from that era in good condition, go for it. They are name brands, but for some reason people turn their noses up at the Craftsman name. They are outstanding values. Most of my block planes are Craftsmans from the 30s and 40s.

[fritz eng]

I bought the exact Bailey "Cordoba" logo No.5 plane in 1970. It sat in the box for 30 years because it just wouldn't cut thinking that the fault was mine. In plane fact the Stanleys made in the 60's and thereafter were of poor quality. After attending a woodworking seminar conducted by Ian Kirby, he then at the time offered to fettle planes for a fee. The cost to fettle would have been 2x the price of the plane. Later i found articles on how to make planes useable. It took ours of work to flatten the sole, frog, blade mouth, etc., and now the No.5 is my go to plane using a Pinnacle blade. Looking back, the service cost was probably justifiable now knowing the amount of labor required. Best wishes

Cordoba should be "Cordovan" (yellow). see my post on 1/26/19

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Steve has helped me make some usable planes that were not when I started.

[Jim Koepke]

Steve has helped me make some usable planes that were not when I started.

Anyone in the Portland, OR area is welcome to my help in setting up a plane or two.

jtk

[steven c newman]

From this..
415524415526
To this in about 2 hours...
415525415527
Just takes a bit of elbow grease....and willing to get the hands dirty...

[lowell holmes]

A tip, black automotive paint works well on rusty hand planes to replace the japanning.

[steven c newman]

Yep. The "preferred" stuff is Semi Gloss Engine Enamel....

Been using a type of Rustoleum that has a primer in it....I spray a few heavy coats...waiting maybe 15minutes between coats..
415571
To go from this mess, to...
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This.
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Then clean off any overspray the next day...

[Mike Manning]

Steven, it appears you don't tape off the areas you don't want paint on but rather clean them up the next day. I have yet to paint an old Stanley plane but I've got a couple I'm restoring that the japanning is so far gone that I have been thinking I would paint them using the engine enamel paint I've read is recommended. What do you use to clean off the overspray?

[Jason Buresh]

Steven, it appears you don't tape off the areas you don't want paint on but rather clean them up the next day. I have yet to paint an old Stanley plane but I've got a couple I'm restoring that the japanning is so far gone that I have been thinking I would paint them using the engine enamel paint I've read is recommended. What do you use to clean off the overspray?

Maybe someone does it differently, but from my experience when I was painting equipment at work that some paint thinner and a Scotch Brite pad usually worked well for bare metal

[Jim Koepke]

Maybe someone does it differently, but from my experience when I was painting equipment at work that some paint thinner and a Scotch Brite pad usually worked well for bare metal

Jason, there are many ways to refurbish an old plane. Here is a link to one:

http://www.rexmill.com/planes101/refinish/refininshing.htm

It is on a site built by Johnny Kleso who also has my favorite type study on the same site.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Just a wire wheel.....

[lowell holmes]

I brush the engine enamel on the old plane. It levels out and I don't see the brush strokes.

[steven c newman]

For just spot repairs, yes.....there IS a "pencil" that is meant to repair a scratch on a car's paint job....you can either use the "ball point pen" feature for a scratch, or, use the small brush inside.
I use that brush to fill in logos on lever caps. Let the paint dry, and then buff down the high spots, leaving the red, black, orange, or yellow below the surface.

[lowell holmes]

Masking tape helps if you are spraying.