Tenon tooling for shaper...

[Jeff Duncan]

So where did you purchase your tenoning tooling from? I have a project that's going to require about 80+ tenons roughly 3/4" thick and up to 3-1/2" long. The length rules out cheating by using my Freeborn cabinet door cutters. I don't see myself getting to deep into doors and windows so not looking to spend on one of the high end sets that do the works. I just need a pair of somewhat larger diameter cutters, (6" - 9" dia. I'd guess?), that'll make a basic square shouldered tenon and won't break the bank. I've done some looking online and for some reason I'm just not finding them. CG Schmidt has some tenon tooling but lacking pics and CT Saw and Tool has no pics at all! I like pics b/c they help me make sure I'm ordering what I want, as I might not always have the correct name for the part:rolleyes:

thanks,
Jeff

[peter gagliardi]

Schmidt makes tenon discs that fit a shaper, they use CB knife stock, and are probably the least expensive way out if buying new.
I have one, and it works pretty well considering
I think Garniga and Zuani make them up to about 12” diameter. They use standard carbide inserts, and will be priced quite a bit more is my guess.
I have some Zuani in I think 160 mm dia. They cut very nicely.

[Jared Sankovich]

Whitehill is the cheapest, about 1/2 the price of Schmidt heads. 5" (125mm) up through 12" (300mm) the 200mm heads (4" max tenon) are about $165 each.

Though they take pin knives not corrugated like the Schmidt, but blanks are cheap.

https://www.whitehill-tools.com/catalogue.php?cid=2&c2id=28

[brent stanley]

Straight knives in the Whitehill discs work great, but I don't use mine anymore and just use the combi head flush mounted so the tenon passes over the top. Crisp clean corners with the scribes and shear knives but of course only one side at a time.

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[Joe Calhoon]

Jeff,
For 3 1/2 long tenons depending on shaft size you will need about a 250mm disk. Tenon disks with knickers will give the cleanest cut. Off the shelf these are usually not readily available. White hill and Schmidt might have something.
if you don’t want to spend on tooling stacked 10” saw blades give a consistent tenon. Shoulders have to be cut on a table saw but this would be more consistent than single side tenon cutting.

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[brent stanley]

So where did you purchase your tenoning tooling from? I have a project that's going to require about 80+ tenons roughly 3/4" thick and up to 3-1/2" long. The length rules out cheating by using my Freeborn cabinet door cutters. I don't see myself getting to deep into doors and windows so not looking to spend on one of the high end sets that do the works. I just need a pair of somewhat larger diameter cutters, (6" - 9" dia. I'd guess?), that'll make a basic square shouldered tenon and won't break the bank. I've done some looking online and for some reason I'm just not finding them. CG Schmidt has some tenon tooling but lacking pics and CT Saw and Tool has no pics at all! I like pics b/c they help me make sure I'm ordering what I want, as I might not always have the correct name for the part:rolleyes:

thanks,
Jeff

Hi Jeff, here's the catalogue page that shows all the diameter options. Lots of pictures! :)

http://whitehill.tools/catalogue/#page=105

Spurrs in the inside corner are really nice, but these do perform well.

They're also coming out with a range of 250mm diameter adjustable groovers which would have spurs (knickers), but you'd have to ask if they condone inverting them for use in forming tenons, I'm not sure.

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[Steve Hubbard]

The OP asked about a tenon tool for a shaper, but what about a tenoning jig for the table saw?

[brent stanley]

So where did you purchase your tenoning tooling from? I have a project that's going to require about 80+ tenons roughly 3/4" thick and up to 3-1/2" long. The length rules out cheating by using my Freeborn cabinet door cutters. I don't see myself getting to deep into doors and windows so not looking to spend on one of the high end sets that do the works. I just need a pair of somewhat larger diameter cutters, (6" - 9" dia. I'd guess?), that'll make a basic square shouldered tenon and won't break the bank. I've done some looking online and for some reason I'm just not finding them. CG Schmidt has some tenon tooling but lacking pics and CT Saw and Tool has no pics at all! I like pics b/c they help me make sure I'm ordering what I want, as I might not always have the correct name for the part:rolleyes:

thanks,
Jeff

The other option of course (which is more expensive than what Jared suggested) are dual, fixed groovers depicted here: http://whitehill.tools/catalogue/#page=101

Carbide tips, spurs (knickers) on both sides and option up to 1 3/16 high and 300mm diameter.

[Brian Holcombe]

Joe,

Does anyone make a small diameter, full kerf, rip blade? I setup my Bridgeport for tenoning in the same way that you do the shaper, but the saw blades I've been using are .080 kerf and the plates aren't really as stiff as I would prefer them to be. Are you using a full kerf blade?

[Dave Cav]

Sounds like a good opportunity to get a tenoner.

I got a pair of custom made tenon cutting disks from Freeborn in Spokane a number of years ago, but I don't think they will cut 3 1/2"; my shaper has only a 3/4" spindle and I didn't want to go too big. They worked ok, but my Millbury tenoner works a lot better.

[Jared Sankovich]

Jeff,
For 3 1/2 long tenons depending on shaft size you will need about a 250mm disk. Tenon disks with knickers will give the cleanest cut. Off the shelf these are usually not readily available. White hill and Schmidt might have something.
if you don’t want to spend on tooling stacked 10” saw blades give a consistent tenon. Shoulders have to be cut on a table saw but this would be more consistent than single side tenon cutting.

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Schmidt and whitehill measure the bare head, so a 200mm whitehill head is 250mm with knives.



Sounds like a good opportunity to get a tenoner.

I got a pair of custom made tenon cutting disks from Freeborn in Spokane a number of years ago, but I don't think they will cut 3 1/2"; my shaper has only a 3/4" spindle and I didn't want to go too big. They worked ok, but my Millbury tenoner works a lot better.

I have a millbury, but a couple tenon discs are cheaper, and take up a lot less space if you already have a shaper big enough to turn them.

[David Kumm]

Dave at Oella might have some resharpened used cutters. I've had luck with him. Tenon tooling is often not used much and shows up on ebay , CL, and facebook if you can access them. Dave

[Larry Edgerton]

The other option of course (which is more expensive than what Jared suggested) are dual, fixed groovers depicted here: http://whitehill.tools/catalogue/#page=101

Carbide tips, spurs (knickers) on both sides and option up to 1 3/16 high and 300mm diameter.

Those look like what I have been wanting to buy exactly, for the same reasons. I have a bunch of large diameter adjustables but they will not go close enough together because of the hubs. Have another job coming up that I could use them on. Is there a place stateside to buy Whitehall, or even in Canada?

[ChrisA Edwards]

The OP asked about a tenon tool for a shaper, but what about a tenoning jig for the table saw?

I made about 50 tenons on a recent project, I settled on the Powermatic PM-TJ tenoning jig. It worked very well, although was pretty expensive. I was dealing with pieces of wood 36" long x 4-7" wide by 1.25" thick. I was cutting 1/2" tenons by 2" long. To use a table saw to make a 3 1/2" tenon, you'd probably need a 12" table saw blade or larger. The PM-TJ performed very well, but I just got a shaper a week ago and will probably do my next set of tenons on that.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1t2_UTodQ4

[ChrisA Edwards]

Have another job coming up that I could use them on. Is there a place stateside to buy Whitehall, or even in Canada?

Shipping to the USA or Canada is not an issue other than dealing with Customs import taxes. I recently ordered about $1200 worth of cutter heads and knives, shipping was $35 to Tennessee and although I got a call from US Customs, they didn't charge me any import tax.

[peter gagliardi]

I forgot to mention, a couple sets of dado blades with the correct spacer in between can and does work pretty well also.

[Joe Calhoon]

Joe,

Does anyone make a small diameter, full kerf, rip blade? I setup my Bridgeport for tenoning in the same way that you do the shaper, but the saw blades I've been using are .080 kerf and the plates aren't really as stiff as I would prefer them to be. Are you using a full kerf blade?

Brian,

how small? Most tooling companies will make custom saw blades. Zuani has made some small diameter blades for bead removal. These are in the 6” range. You might try Vexor in Denver. Thicker- heavier blades work better for this. I have a couple 3 mm kerf blades for the shaper and they get to fluttering if cutting too deep.

Another method for cost saving or if your shaper is not up to the task is a simple jig for the sliding saw. Adjust it with the fence stops and clamp it to the table or fence.

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[Jeff Duncan]

Thanks guys.... lots of info here to digest! Shaper's up to the task, I'll do it on the SCM.... 9hp and can sink a 12" diameter head under the table. I just don't want to break the bank on tooling I may not get a lot of use out of. I'm already having to drop a chunk of cash on a hollow chisel mortiser once I find one, (another thing I'll not likely get much use out of), but being historical work these tenons and mortises need to be square edge, so my slot mortiser is out:( I'm going to call Monday and see what shipping from the UK would cost.... damn shame as I just came back from there 2 weeks ago! I'll also check around for used.... hadn't even thought of that!

Table saw would be trickier as my dado's and tenon jig are all for the 10" saw, nothing for the 12". Also doing the longer pieces, (60"), could be a bit tricky as they may hit the overhead dust collection. Doing them with the sliding table is/could be an option. Will be more time consuming, but could save me a bunch of cash.

Anyway I'll have to re-read this thread a couple times over the weekend and put some thought into it.... thanks all!

JeffD

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Joe! I'll check into both of those brands, I use a 7" blade now and probably will stick with that size. I'm also probably going to buy a 1.25" arbor for the machine.

Jeff,

I use a Bridgeport mill for the rip cuts with a saw blade, which is very similar to Joe's method of using a shaper with saw blades except that using a shaper would be much much faster. Then cut the shoulders on the sliding saw, easy and 80 tenons will go exceptionally quickly.

[Mark Hennebury]

If this is just a one time deal, why not just farm it out to someone who has a tenoner. It's a pretty quick job for someone with the equipment.

Some years back i did all of the tenons and mortises for 300 bunk bed sets for a customer. It would have been hard for them to set up and do it, and was a piece of cake for me.

Why are you thinking about a hollow chisel mortiser and not a swing chisel mortiser like a Maka?

[Darcy Warner]

If this is just a one time deal, why not just farm it out to someone who has a tenoner. It's a pretty quick job for someone with the equipment.

Some years back i did all of the tenons and mortises for 300 bunk bed sets for a customer. It would have been hard for them to set up and do it, and was a piece of cake for me.

Why are you thinking about a hollow chisel mortiser and not a swing chisel mortiser like a Maka?

Might take 30 minutes to set up and maybe 30 minutes to run on a tenoner.

For some reason I have 8. Not sure how that happened

[Brian Holcombe]

If this is just a one time deal, why not just farm it out to someone who has a tenoner. It's a pretty quick job for someone with the equipment.

Some years back i did all of the tenons and mortises for 300 bunk bed sets for a customer. It would have been hard for them to set up and do it, and was a piece of cake for me.

Why are you thinking about a hollow chisel mortiser and not a swing chisel mortiser like a Maka?

I'll second Mark's recommendation on the Maka, much cleaner result much much faster.

[Mark Hennebury]

Okay Darcy, you have to do a thread on your tenoners. You cant just throw that out and not show us.


Might take 30 minutes to set up and maybe 30 minutes to run on a tenoner.

For some reason I have 8. Not sure how that happened

[Darcy Warner]

Okay Darcy, you have to do a thread on your tenoners. You cant just throw that out and not show us.

I have 3 532 greenlee's, a very early motor drive 505 F&E, a wadkin, a milbury, something else and a Danckaert

[Mark Hennebury]

A Wadkin What?


I have 3 532 greenlee's, a very early motor drive 505 F&E, a wadkin, a milbury, something else and a Danckaert

[Darcy Warner]

A Wadkin What?

ECA 3 head.

[Joe Calhoon]

Heck, don’t stop with old school push pull tenoners that are a bear to setup. Go modern with one that will do the work of 8 old units with no setup and a fraction of the floor space.
here is a video of making 2) 3 panel fold slide units and a 2 panel lift slide unit. All 68mm thick out of knotty white oak.
i was running in manual mode because it was a simple job. In auto everything is calculated automatically. Part length, tenon depth, quantities and part widths. This job is using the tenoner in combination with the shaper for profiling. The next step up is a angle machine that does both profiling and tenoning.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EXC3U7jtFWY

[Joe Calhoon]

Shaper tenons are still my preferred for custom one off work, especially entry doors. Depending on the shaper, setup is quick and tenon thickness is calculated with no test cuts because it is just a matter of knowing your spacer thickness between the disks. Automatic tenoner is quicker because it is cutting parts to length. Shaper you have to pre cut to length and set the tenon depth. I think for most folks on this forum, small pro shops and hobby shops a tenoner is not a option but a good shaper is a useful machine for a lot of different operations.

For square edge tenons on shaper if doing more than one door I usually set up and cut the haunches first using the same cutters. This will save a little work later.

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[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Joe, nice setup.

I'm Interested in the tenoner;
Whats the HP on the tenoner spindle?
what size is the spindle.?
what is the maximum stack?
Are you climb cutting? As you don't have a backer board.
Do you use the cut-off saw to cut to length or use precut?
Is the height setting computer controlled?
How accurate / repeatable is it?

[Joe Calhoon]

Hi Joe, nice setup.

I'm Interested in the tenoner;
Whats the HP on the tenoner spindle?
what size is the spindle.?
what is the maximum stack?
Are you climb cutting? As you don't have a backer board.
Do you use the cut-off saw to cut to length or use precut?
Is the height setting computer controlled?
How accurate / repeatable is it?

hi Mark,
15HP on the tenon shaft, 50mm shaft X 320mm. In the picture the stack is all the cutters for traditional double hung and casement with sash thickness of 1 3/4” or 2 1/4”. Four heads in that picture- slot and tenon for sash and slot and tenon for the casement frame.
Yes, it climb cuts but not in the traditional sense, only so the pneumatic floating chipbreaker can be used. With the CNC program the spindle can drop and another cut can be made on the backstroke. For example making the doors in the video the coped stack rail was made by cutting off the tenons on the backstroke.

cut off saw is controlled by CNC to determine tenon length and works together with the automatic cross fence to cut parts to length up to 10’ long.

height of stack controlled by CNC

To change to a different system, for example the 68 mm tilt turn window and door system in the video you just change the stack and chipbreaker and select that tool system in the program. Takes less than 5 minutes.

Its very accurate and repeatable but like all things CNC electronics can go wrong...

For sure faster and and more accurate than a shaper or a but also quite a investment in machine and tooling.

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[Joe Calhoon]

Probably of more interest to the small shop doing door and window work are the manual tenoners from Europe that were made in the 80s. Rare to find these in the States.

here is a Okoma and a Habercorn. Probably 200mm X 40mm shafts with pneumatic stops for height. Saw blade with turret stop for various tenon depth and and manual stops on the cross fence that work in tandem with the turret stop n the saw. Usually only a couple tools stack on these but made with constant height so no height adjusting needed.

The door and window business in Germany is so developed and competitive that a lot of shops, even 2 and 3 man are using the Weinig Conturex. About one million$ to plug one of those in!

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[Steve Hubbard]

For limited use, a shop built tenoning jig can be sufficient. My recent project required tenons 3 1/2 inches in length on ash rails 38 inches long, 3 1/2 inches wide, and 1 1/4 inches thick. I could not find a commercial jig for a slider, so used the plans from an article named "Adjustable Tenoning Jig" which was published in the "Woodsmith Ultimate Table Saw Handbook" dated Summer 2013. A 315 mm rip blade on my Hammer slider made the cuts with ease. An opening was cut in the floor of the jig to allow full use of the blade height (a 4 inch tall cut is possible with this setup).

[Mark Hennebury]

That's a nice tenoner you have there. That for sure is serious coin to get that setup.

The older machines are similar to the old SAC machine that i had a few years back, it was pretty solid two vertical spindles with four height setups. I think it was 12" and 10" stacks, not sure on that.

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hi Mark,
15HP on the tenon shaft, 50mm shaft X 320mm. In the picture the stack is all the cutters for traditional double hung and casement with sash thickness of 1 3/4” or 2 1/4”. Four heads in that picture- slot and tenon for sash and slot and tenon for the casement frame.
Yes, it climb cuts but not in the traditional sense, only so the pneumatic floating chipbreaker can be used. With the CNC program the spindle can drop and another cut can be made on the backstroke. For example making the doors in the video the coped stack rail was made by cutting off the tenons on the backstroke.

cut off saw is controlled by CNC to determine tenon length and works together with the automatic cross fence to cut parts to length up to 10’ long.

height of stack controlled by CNC

To change to a different system, for example the 68 mm tilt turn window and door system in the video you just change the stack and chipbreaker and select that tool system in the program. Takes less than 5 minutes.

Its very accurate and repeatable but like all things CNC electronics can go wrong...

For sure faster and and more accurate than a shaper or a but also quite a investment in machine and tooling.

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[Mel Fulks]

Joe, nice machine ,but I'm astounded at the slow speed. Really thought it was slow motion camera until I saw a human
moving at normal speed. The cope knives on tenon machines are best left to one or two operators for efficiency but most
of us did ok when asked. Only one job had a double end tenoner but it was used a lot for stock and custom work, ran so
fast most "catchers" had a hard time keeping up.

[Darcy Warner]

That's why I have multiples, different set up on each one.

Maybe not automated fast, but fast enough and much cheaper.

The little milbury machines are nice.

My Danckaert has a tilting table and the entire table raises and lowers independently from the heads.

[Joe Calhoon]

Mark,
the SAC tenoners and profilers were great machines and very solid. I had the mate to that tenoner for a few years. The SAC P3 profiler. It had a 300mm X 50 shaft with a glass bead saw. Most had a jump spindle for pre cutting when storm proofing but mine did not have that. I was sorry to see SAC go down.
Probably 320 or 350 mm diameter stacks on your tenoner.



That's a nice tenoner you have there. That for sure is serious coin to get that setup.

The older machines are similar to the old SAC machine that i had a few years back, it was pretty solid two vertical spindles with four height setups. I think it was 12" and 10" stacks, not sure on that.

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[Joe Calhoon]

Mel, the speed can be turned up a lot if you want. Speed going in is just right for 2 5/8” thick white oak. Return could be faster. This is half of an angle machine where one operator is feeding the profile part while tenoning is occurring. Ideally with the tenoner you would have the shaper at a 90 degree angle to where the operator stands so he can feed the shaper at the same time. In both cases the slow speed of the tenoner is desirable.



Joe, nice machine ,but I'm astounded at the slow speed. Really thought it was slow motion camera until I saw a human
moving at normal speed. The cope knives on tenon machines are best left to one or two operators for efficiency but most
of us did ok when asked. Only one job had a double end tenoner but it was used a lot for stock and custom work, ran so
fast most "catchers" had a hard time keeping up.

[Mark Hennebury]

Joe,
Yes it was pretty sad to see the company close; their machines seem to be pretty solid stuff.

Are you familiar with the Wadkin Jet?
Single spindle and cutoff saw.
Spindle travels not the table.
It has three tables to set at different levels and cut all three pieces at the same pass, using all of the tooling on the stack.
https://www.wadkin.com/archive%20pdfs/Wadkin%20JET%20Tenoner.pdf


Mark,
the SAC tenoners and profilers were great machines and very solid. I had the mate to that tenoner for a few years. The SAC P3 profiler. It had a 300mm X 50 shaft with a glass bead saw. Most had a jump spindle for pre cutting when storm proofing but mine did not have that. I was sorry to see SAC go down.
Probably 320 or 350 mm diameter stacks on your tenoner.

[Mel Fulks]

Joe, thanks for describing that, have not seen much new stuff.

[Joe Calhoon]

Mark,
I am familiar with the Jet but never seen one in person. I have seen the Wadkin Par in use. The Par looks like a ideal 4 sider for the small shop. Those 2 machines were pretty innovative from Wadkin. I know a machinery dealer in the U.K. that was a long time Wadkin employee and was involved in the development of those machines.

Darcy, like to see some pictures of the Dankart tenoner. It sounds interesting. You are always coming up with rare vintage.

[Darcy Warner]

Quick video.

https://youtu.be/F_GngS1g2Mo

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Joe,
Wadkin came up with some pretty innovative stuff during that period; I like the PAR and would like to have one.
I have a couple of JET machines that i am going to rebuild. They are not as heavy duty as the SAC, but look like a nice machine. I have a specific product in mind for the Jet, and thought that it would be perfect for that job.
This is one in my shop; i have it completely stripped down at the moment.

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Mark,
I am familiar with the Jet but never seen one in person. I have seen the Wadkin Par in use. The Par looks like a ideal 4 sider for the small shop. Those 2 machines were pretty innovative from Wadkin. I know a machinery dealer in the U.K. that was a long time Wadkin employee and was involved in the development of those machines.

Darcy, like to see some pictures of the Dankart tenoner. It sounds interesting. You are always coming up with rare vintage.

[Mark Wooden]

I forgot to mention, a couple sets of dado blades with the correct spacer in between can and does work pretty well also.

I was going to add this ,Peter beat me to it.
Another option is to have two matched STG 10" full kerf sawblades bored to 1-1/14", finish the cuts on the slider, if you only need to do a few doors. Just always remember to tell the sharpening shop to keep the diameters of the blades the same.DAMHIKT

[Joe Calhoon]

Mark,
looks interesting, I saw your video on a SET tenoner. Looks like it has purpose made tooling? While the JET is a normal tenon stack? The different tool sets would have to be made to specific heights so as not to have to move the tables up and down with each change of tooling? This is easy to accomplish with tools on a sleeve.
Just supposing here..
Will be looking forward to your rebuild on these.



Hi Joe,
Wadkin came up with some pretty innovative stuff during that period; I like the PAR and would like to have one.
I have a couple of JET machines that i am going to rebuild. They are not as heavy duty as the SAC, but look like a nice machine. I have a specific product in mind for the Jet, and thought that it would be perfect for that job.
This is one in my shop; i have it completely stripped down at the moment.

[Joe Calhoon]

I can see where that one would be good for chair makers with the possibilities of compound angles. Like to see a picture of the cross fence and stops.


Quick video.

https://youtu.be/F_GngS1g2Mo

[Mark Hennebury]

Joe,

The SET is a nice machine too. Wadkin were pretty innovative at the period.

The Jet takes standard stacks.
The three tables adjust vertically and horizontally.
I am quite excited to get working on a rebuild.

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Mark,
looks interesting, I saw your video on a SET tenoner. Looks like it has purpose made tooling? While the JET is a normal tenon stack? The different tool sets would have to be made to specific heights so as not to have to move the tables up and down with each change of tooling? This is easy to accomplish with tools on a sleeve.
Just supposing here..
Will be looking forward to your rebuild on these.

[brent stanley]

Those look like what I have been wanting to buy exactly, for the same reasons. I have a bunch of large diameter adjustables but they will not go close enough together because of the hubs. Have another job coming up that I could use them on. Is there a place stateside to buy Whitehall, or even in Canada?

Larry, here's some in action. Not crazy about the machine or settup, but the heads are there: https://youtu.be/ys1-rKFP-OY

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[ChrisA Edwards]

Thank you Brent for the video link, that was just what I was looking for.

[brent stanley]

Thank you Brent for the video link, that was just what I was looking for.

I'm not sure what that guy is up to because that tenon seems pretty small, and his machine doesn't have an excess of power, but the tooling does the trick!

[Jared Sankovich]

Larry, here's some in action. Not crazy about the machine or settup, but the heads are there: https://youtu.be/ys1-rKFP-OY

B

To be clear those are the groovers, not the tenon heads

[brent stanley]

To be clear those are the groovers, not the tenon heads

Absolutely, these are fixed-width groovers Larry and I were talking about earlier in post #13. However Whitehill considers forming tenons with these an acceptable use of them. Square shoulders only of course.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I'm not sure what that guy is up to because that tenon seems pretty small, and his machine doesn't have an excess of power, but the tooling does the trick!

Yes I noticed that, but all you need is a thicker center spacer(s). That looks like the ticket for me as I make 1/2" tenons on my next round of Plantation Shutters.

[brent stanley]

Yes I noticed that, but all you need is a thicker center spacer(s). That looks like the ticket for me as I make 1/2" tenons on my next round of Plantation Shutters.

You could use your combi head for that, but I do think dual discs is better.

[Jared Sankovich]

Downside of the groovers is you cant cope with them.

[brent stanley]

Downside of the groovers is you cant cope with them.

Agree, the ones you linked to are the most versatile I think. If you do a lot of square shoulder work, you could get the straight knives tipped in carbide and they'd last forever.

[Joe Calhoon]

I have some true tenon heads I use for square edge work. These normally have shear and sometimes mounted on a sleeve. I’ve used this head for almost 20 years. In front is a groover that can be used between the heads to make double tenons.

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On the right is a 15 to 30 Adj groover that I use in my sliding saw and can also be used to make tenons on the shaper. They cut almost as good as the true tenon disks. A little limited on house door work because of the 15mm height.
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These are all 250mm diameter which allows using them within the fences on my shapers. Larger than that you have to take the fence of and use a tenon hood. 250 gives a acceptable tenon length for house doors. I have 320 disks for longer tenon work. Always a good idea to order Z 3 knives on disks 225mm and over.

These disks can also be used for square edge coping.

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[Larry Edgerton]

Thank you Brent for the video

[brent stanley]

Thank you Brent for the video

You're welcome Larry.