Shoulder plane advice

[Bill Carey]

I have a Stanley 92 that I've used for several years, but it's getting harder to use due to my hands getting worse. It was never that comfortable to use (IMHO) in the first place - just never really fit into my hand. I'm thinking about the Veritas Medium shoulder plane. If that adjustable knob actually works like they say - fits into the web of your hand between the thumb and the finger - then that might help. Anyone have one? Comments on it?

Any other suggestions? I like the HNT Gordon 3/4 shoulder plane as well. It appears from the pics that the Gordon has a typical wedge adjustment arrangement. Is that right?

I just started 4 dining chairs so I have a butt load of tenons to plane, so all comments and suggestions are welcomed.

[Scott Winners]

I have the LN size medium, that bronze rooster tail of a handle does fine for my arthritic joints, but i can't compare it to any of the others. A2 blade, well built, I don't use it a lot, but when I reach for it it does what I ask.

What about some kind of slick instead? Could you maybe start with a 2" antique chisel, heat it up to bend the handle away from the back of the blade and then use whatever size round you need for a comfortable grip to get your tenons out?

[Jim Matthews]

Drop me a PM... I've spare wood body shoulder planes I could lend. FYI - the Veritas are excellent, but heavy.

I found them reliable when "upright" but ended up with sloping tenon's, if used "sideways".

[glenn bradley]

Love it. I know some folks say holding it is like holding spaghetti but, I disagree.

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Confident, controllable grip. Many variations are possible.

[Mark Rainey]

Bill, I have the Lie-Nielsen large shoulder plane, but it can be uncomfortable to use repeatedly. Are you planning on using the shoulder plane for the tenon shoulders or the cheeks? A router plane is very nice for adjusting the cheeks.

[Jim Koepke]

I have a Stanley 92 that I've used for several years, but it's getting harder to use due to my hands getting worse.

Have you tried using a chisel to trim your tenons and shoulders?

One of my reasons for preferring socket chisels is how easy it is to make my own handles.

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This allows making them so the are comfortable in my hand that has had a few injuries over the years and suffers some from arthritis.

This style of handle is easy to handle with a few different grips. The 'ball' top is comfortable to push with the palm of the hand. The ring near the socket allows it to be held between a couple of fingers with the hand wrapped around it for tapping with a mallet. The ring also is a good stop for the web between the thumb and forefinger when paring.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I have a Stanley 92 that I've used for several years, but it's getting harder to use due to my hands getting worse. It was never that comfortable to use (IMHO) in the first place - just never really fit into my hand. I'm thinking about the Veritas Medium shoulder plane. If that adjustable knob actually works like they say - fits into the web of your hand between the thumb and the finger - then that might help. Anyone have one? Comments on it?

Any other suggestions? I like the HNT Gordon 3/4 shoulder plane as well. It appears from the pics that the Gordon has a typical wedge adjustment arrangement. Is that right?

I just started 4 dining chairs so I have a butt load of tenons to plane, so all comments and suggestions are welcomed.

Bill, I reviewed the Veritas Medium in 2006, and compared it with both the Stanley 92 and HNT Gordon 3/4” planes you mention.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/The%20Veritas%20Medium%20Shoulder%20Plane.html

In the end, I kept the Veritas and sold the Stanley and HNT Gordon.

Ironically, I tend not to use a shoulder plane for shoulders - I prefer a chisel. Occasionally a shoulder plane does get used for shoulders, but mainly I use one for tuning rebates, at which it excels. My favourite is the Veritas Small, which is 1/2”.

I reviewed the Small in 2010: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasSmallShoulderPlane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Larry Frank]

I have the Veritas medium shoulder plane with the knob and love it. I have hand and wrist problems and the knob works great.

[Bill Carey]

Thanks for the comments gents.
I use the Stanley for both the cheeks and the shoulders. And I think I'll try a chisel on the cheeks tomorrow. I'm going to order the Veritas Medium and try that for a while. Appreciate the info from you guys that use it.
Thanks for the offer of lending me a plane, Jim, but I could never get the hang of adjusting wooden planes. I guess it's all the years I spent as a framing carpenter. Put a hammer in my hand I hit things too hard.
Nice review Derek - thanks for pointing me to it. Helped seal the deal.
And Larry - hand and wrist problems and you love it? Say no more. Expect to see a Stanley 92 for sale soon.

[Jim Koepke]

I think I'll try a chisel on the cheeks tomorrow.

Just a hint, use a chisel that is about as wide as the tenon is long if you have one.

Here is a project of mine with 24 mortise and tenons:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262272

The ninth post shows trimming cheeks and shoulders with a chisel.

jtk

[Tom M King]

For small tenons, the Iwasaki wood files work great at fine tuning. I bought Record large, and small shoulder planes back when they were still available new, but as much as they've been used, I don't remember either ever touching a tenon, or shoulder.

[Rob Luter]

Thanks for the comments gents.
I use the Stanley for both the cheeks and the shoulders. And I think I'll try a chisel on the cheeks tomorrow. I'm going to order the Veritas Medium and try that for a while. Appreciate the info from you guys that use it.
Thanks for the offer of lending me a plane, Jim, but I could never get the hang of adjusting wooden planes. I guess it's all the years I spent as a framing carpenter. Put a hammer in my hand I hit things too hard.
Nice review Derek - thanks for pointing me to it. Helped seal the deal.
And Larry - hand and wrist problems and you love it? Say no more. Expect to see a Stanley 92 for sale soon.

i have the LV medium and I think you’ll be pleased.

[Dueane Hicks]

I bought the Veritas large shoulder plane; and if anything, it's too large and heavy. I think your right in looking at the medium. I also found a good, sharp router plane does very good trimming cheeks.

[Prashun Patel]

Before you order the Medium shoulder plane, consider their large router plane. For cheeks, it find it (slower but) easier than a shoulder plane. I share your thoughts about fatigue.

Then you just have to use a chisel on the shoulders (great if you like to undercut them anyway).

[lowell holmes]

I have the LV medium and large shoulder planes. I am happy with both planes.

[steven c newman]

I have the Auburn Co. No. 181....and use it quite a bit....( and was only $10....)

[Bill Carey]

Naturally, I go to order the medium and they are out of stock until Oct.

[Mark Rainey]

Naturally, I go to order the medium and they are out of stock until Oct.
It is just as well Bill. Three people have recommended the router plane instead. You can really thickness the tenon to perfection with the tool if it does not come off the saw just right.

[David Eisenhauer]

"Each to his own", "more than one way to skin a cat", etc Bill, but for me, it is much easier to use a chisel on tenon shoulders and cheeks, or a router plane on larger tenon cheeks that are twisted. I have used a shoulder plane to clean up the long shoulder on a sawn/split/chopped out tongue of a breadboard end of a table with lots of success. Most tenon shoulders on typical furniture are usually only 1/4" wide and how long? 1", 1-1/2"? Not a lot of room to deploy the shoulder plane in, but they do work well when sharp and set to take a whisker-thin cut. For me, a sharp chisel tip will drop into my layout line that I sawed right next to when cleaning up the shoulder line.

[Jack Frederick]

I have the large LN shoulderand find that the spoon on that lays in my hand easily. I don't have to grasp it to get a secure push through the material. The larger body offers multiple grips too. With a guide hand or one handed I think it may be a good option for you.

[Don Dorn]

Bill, I have the Lie-Nielsen large shoulder plane, but it can be uncomfortable to use repeatedly. Are you planning on using the shoulder plane for the tenon shoulders or the cheeks? A router plane is very nice for adjusting the cheeks.

I found it odd to use as well. Then, someone said, you need to pull it, not push it and now find it works much better. Frankly though, I dont reach for it often, but when I need it, not much else will do the job.

[Jerry Olexa]

I converted a few years ago to using my router plane to trim/clean tenons..Instead of my 3 shoulder planes....I use a pivoting action with the router plane and it works cleanly and fine! Just my thought.

[Jim Koepke]

Harry Strasil, may he rest in peace, posted on making a router:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?119557

The sixth post shows a version he made specifically for trimming tenons.

A router can be handy when adjusting a tenon or two.

When my project included 24 tenons a chisel with a low angle bevel proved faster.

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Shoulder paring also went quickly:

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This also allowed for a slight undercut for a better looking fit.

According to Patrick's Blood & Gore, the Stanley versions of these planes were designated Cabinet Maker's Rabbet Planes:
"designed for fine Cabinet Work where extreme accuracy is required."

Even with two, so called, Stanley shoulder planes (a #90 & 93) and various other rabbet planes used on shoulders and tenons, my chisels still get the job done faster and just as clean on most jobs. Where the rabbet planes really come into play is when making joinery for pieces in the 2X4 and larger range:

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A Carriage Maker's Rabbet Plane, #10-1/2, can be handy on a large lap joint.

jtk