Table Saw Pulley Replacement

[Bennie Dempsey]

Hey community, first post on this site, hopefully I learn some stuff!

I was given a Delta-Rockwell 10" contractors table (34-444) saw from my grandfather. I've used it for the past year but it's so loud and vibrations are severe to the point I don't feel safe using it. I've recently replaced the arbor bearings, which helped a bit, but I believe my issue is in the pulley system. The pulleys aren't linear and the arbor pulley seems to be bent/warped. Near a full rotation, you can see it rise and fall quickly on the arbor.

I will include some pictures of the pulleys and belt. I'm looking to replace these with a newer pair, I've read about machined steel pulleys, can you purchase these for any table saw, or are the options limited? I can supply any and all photos.

413660

413661

413663

413664

[Ronald Blue]

You need to know the OD of the pulley, ID bore size, and belt width. Armed with that the search is relatively easy. I'm guessing the bore to be 5/8" and the belt to be 1/2" width. Mcmaster Carr and Grainger are both good sources. Cast iron pulleys will be machined.

[Jerry Bruette]

Bennie, welcome to the Creek. You're at the right spot for information and advice about woodworking machines.

You can purchase those sheaves from a supplier like McMaster-Carr or from any local industrial supplier like Motion Industries. You'll need to know the bore, O.D. and the groove size.

If you're not familiar with sheaves and how to size them you're better off with a local supplier where you can bring in the old ones and the supplier can measure them so you get the right size.

While you're at it I'd replace the belt too, with a link belt. Be sure to align the sheaves when you install them. Saw should purr after that.

[Bennie Dempsey]

ID of the bore is 5/8".
OD of the arbor pulley is 2-1/2".
OD of the motor pulley is 3-1/16".
Belt width is 1/2".

Would these be what I am looking for?

arbor pulley - https://www.grainger.com/category/power-transmission/sheaves-and-pulleys/v-belt-pulleys?attrs=Pulley+Bore+Dia.%7C5%2F8%22~~Pulley+ Outside+Dia.%7C2.50%22&filters=attrs
motor pulley - https://www.grainger.com/category/power-transmission/sheaves-and-pulleys/v-belt-pulleys?attrs=Pulley+Bore+Dia.%7C5%2F8%22~~Pulley+ Outside+Dia.%7C3.05%22&filters=attrs
belt - https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Lower+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+%282%29+Price+%2410-30|43771&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sKs2BdYAw|pcrid|318476002941|pkw||pmt||pdv|c |slid||product|43771|&pgrid=63088204546&ptaid=aud-466777368654:pla-298214533868&pcid=1654049980&intent=&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ZTqBRBZEiwAHHxpfi7gWoDVBlBTEJ7lk98i 3XaXQPExzgpg0ljM-QYIkb1jLdkZFm5aCRoC6xIQAvD_BwE

[Ronald Blue]

mcmaster.com/6204k133 (https://www.mcmaster.com/6204k133)
mcmaster.com/6204k163 (https://www.mcmaster.com/6204k163)

[Tom M King]

Been there. Pulleys might help, but I'll put money on the vibration coming from the belt. Try another belt, not an automotive one.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have the same saw as you do. I bought a link belt and it made a difference. I'd try that first and see how much it improves. You can replace the pulleys next.

FYI, Harbor Freight sells a green link belt. In case you're interested, here's a short summary. (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?258602-FYI-Harbor-Freight-Link-Belt&highlight=Link+belt)

Fred

[Bennie Dempsey]

mcmaster.com/6204k133 (https://www.mcmaster.com/6204k133)
mcmaster.com/6204k163 (https://www.mcmaster.com/6204k163)

I will try a new belt first, then if needed get new pulleys. I'll update when I find the solution. Thanks all!

[Bill Dufour]

Check ebay for good iron pulleys. If you are lucky you can find a bargain. Likely you will get one a fraction off on diameter. Not a big deal as long as the ratio is close. The driven pulley can go smaller but probably no bigger or it will hit the underside of the table.
Bil lD.

On edit; I see several iron pulleys on ebay for about $10 each with shipping. For my Saw when I replaced the motor with a modern one with a smaller shaft I was able to buy a used taper lock inner portion with the new bore. That was installed with the old pulley with no problems. Saved trying to find a four row sheave of the correct diameter. I understand Delta is the only maker of that pulley with that groove spacing.

[Bennie Dempsey]

I went to harbor freight and purchased their accu-link belt. It runs quieter than with automotive belt, but there still is a huge rumble. I checked to see if the pulleys were correctly aligned, and they seem to be pretty close. Whoever actually used the saw before me seems to have put the arbor pulley on (backwards?) as there's a lot of scratch rings and a deep gouge. The arbor itself seems to run near perfect, but the arbor pulley spins as if it's hitting a bump, as well as when tightend, it has a minor play. I would believe that leads to purchasing a new arbor pulley.

With that being said, can I purchase just the one pulley, or are both recommended?

[Don Jarvie]

Surplus Center has pulleys for a reasonable price.

[Tom M King]

There shouldn't be play between the pulley, and the shaft. You definitely need to replace that one. If the other one runs true, I don't see any need to replace it. I've bought pulleys from Surplus Center too, and no problem with any of them.

[Bruce Wrenn]

In Line Industries makes kits for your saw which will have the correct pulleys. Any cast iron pulley will be a "turned" pulley. Browning is a well know brand. Check farm supply stores as they stock pulleys.

[Bennie Dempsey]

I purchased both a new arbor and motor pulley, i'll have to grind down the key for the motor pulley as it refuses to fit in the slot. Besides that, replacing the arbor pulley made it run very smooth. Between the link belt and pulley, there is no rumble or resistance, only a nice hum. Thank you guys so much! It's gonna be a busy weekend catching up on these projects!

[Frederick Skelly]

I purchased both a new arbor and motor pulley, i'll have to grind down the key for the motor pulley as it refuses to fit in the slot. Besides that, replacing the arbor pulley made it run very smooth. Between the link belt and pulley, there is no rumble or resistance, only a nice hum. Thank you guys so much! It's gonna be a busy weekend catching up on these projects!

Hey, that's great news! Glad to hear it!
Look forward to seeing pictures of what you build.
Fred

[lowell holmes]

https://www.dealsnow.com/shopping?q=delta+saws+manuals&qsrc=0&src=jm&gch=T0000014&au=11704729&kw=kwd-82051303108964:loc-190&net=o&tt=T0000014&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_campaign=369181591&ag=1312817654718576&utm_term=kwd-82051303108964:loc-190&mkt=usa&dev=c&msclkid=46b0014f64e519b1fa0c5c05bcaed2d7&utm_content=GROUP18_8

Check this site to find assistance.

[Charles Lent]

I think you're going to like that 34-444 saw, now that you have upgraded the pulleys, arbor, and belt. I found one of these saws for my son, cleaned it up and calibrated it, and I was quite surprised how accurately it cuts. It's every bit as accurate as my Unisaw. The original jet lock fence on these saws isn't the greatest, and if you can replace it with a good T fence you will be happier, but the original fence isn't really that bad. The motor on these saws is special. It was designed to provide 1.5 hp when connected to 120 volt power, but will produce 2 full hp when connected to 240 volt power. 1.5 hp is the max that you can get from a 120 volt circuit. Delta designed the saw to be used on readily available house power when the contractor was using it on the job, but when he moved it back into his shop, he could switch it over to 240 volt power and have the horsepower available. A very handy feature. All of the 34-4** series of Delta Contractor saws are almost identical, with minor upgrades between models. All are basically the same and you will need to look hard to see the differences. The one major lacking feature is saw dust control, there isn't any in these saws. There is a fabric bag available that attaches to the cross braces between the legs that will catch what falls straight down, but the open cabinet design lets the saw dust go everywhere.

Charley

[Bennie Dempsey]

Yes, the dust collection really sucks, leaves a big pile under the saw, almost forcing you to turn off my shop fan. As for the accuracy, I absolutely love it, everything seems to be within 98% perfect, any imperfections are usually from the amateur operator (me). Past the primary iron top, the original fence seems to not work in terms of self adjustment, which is probably a rail issue. If I need to rip larger goods the circluar saw does great. Freud 24 tpi blade is perfect, it cuts clean and quickly. Doesn't help the groundwork of our shed is crappy... 3/4" 4x8 on 2x4s on cement blocks. Entire shed is unlevel, trying my best to make due.

[Charles Lent]

Bonnie,

Make certain that the front and rear fence pipes are equal distance apart across their full length. In moving these saws around they can get bumped and slightly bent. A change in spacing toward the outer ends will surely cause fence problems beyond the main table. This is why I only have the spare fence below. If only slightly bent, someone who knows how can usually straighten them if bent only slightly. Otherwise, you should look for a fence upgrade. A Unifence would be what I would look for, but you won't find a new one, and they are rare, but there are several brands of good new fences available today.

If you decide that your OEM fence itself is the problem, I have one that you can have (fence only, no rails) just for the shipping costs. In finding parts for, and assembling the saw for my son I ended up with an extra good fence. It's too good for me to face throwing it away, but it's taking up space and needs a new home. Send me a PM if you want more information about it.

Charley

[glenn bradley]

Sorry I was late. Could've saved some troub (https://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_link_belt_pulley.html)le. The Acculink works well. I even have sections mixed with Fenner without issue.