Panel saw, for a $1

[steven c newman]

has a few items of interest....
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besides the price..
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I cleaned the label screw, to get a better look at it
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Sheffield.No.59?...Patented..Trade Mark...Warranted...24" blade..more or less....has a "factory clipped toe"?
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Handle is VERY COMFY...
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However....them teeth will need just a wee bit of work..
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Ya think?:eek: Also spent $6 on a metal box...
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but what was in the box?
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Worth the $6?

[William Fretwell]

Let me know if you have some doubles you need to get rid of!

[lowell holmes]

A bit of sandpaper and Johnson Wax and you will have a keeper.
I have a D7 that I gave the treatment to.

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

A buck isn't too shabby. Post a photo after you get it restored.

Ya did good!

Stew

[steven c newman]

Found some keepers in that box of drill bits..and got them all spiffyfied up..
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First 2? A 3/8" Gimlet bit I had, and that 5/8" made in Germany drill bit....then 4 counter sinks ( I already had two of them) 3 screwdriver tips, had one to begin with..a 1/4" bit from that metal box, and my 5/16" bit....Once that Mitre Box and the Sheffield saw are done, I can work on the rest of the bits....have the contents soaking, right now...

[steven c newman]

Just read where that Sheffield saw might have had it's plate Blued? Wonder how that will go, when I clean the plate up?

Snaggle teeth need fixed....too much "Cow & Calf" going on....
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No, I don't feel like jointing these all off, and cutting new teeth....Hmmmm...

[steven c newman]

Ok, upon further review..
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That "Yankee" pushdrill is marked as a "FULTON" Made in Germany. Hmmmm....Tips will fit in my North Bros. Yankee , too.

Visegrips have been put to work.

Still soaking that box of drill bits...will clean and sort them, after the Mitre Box rehab is done....other than a few "keepers " I already have cleaned up
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Next to the 3/8" Gimlet bit, there is a 5/8" Germany bit....like a cross between a spade bit, and an auger bit. Hmmm?

[steven c newman]

Box has been emptied out..
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Still nasty...poured a layer of oxyclean and letting it soak a while..
Treasures..ehhh, could be...
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Cleaned bits of the left?
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A motley bunch, also like these..
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maybe a hand-powered drill press? Or a breast drill with 3 jaws?
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Dug out 2 of my Irwins, to see IF either could supply a cutter to the #21 in the middle...Maybe I can order a new one? Smaller one is a #1....larger one is a #22...the #22's cutter looks like it might fit...
Have started the clean up....one of the bits is a Bates rest look like irwins...

[Stew Denton]

Steven,

I don't know, but it looks like the $6 box may have even been a better deal than the $1 saw.

Stew

[lowell holmes]

I would sand the rusty saw with fine sandpaper and hit with a coat of Johnson Floor Wax.
If you do not have Johnson Floor Wax, get a can. It will last a life time preventing rust and it does not stain the wood.

[steven c newman]

After a bit of clean up...the one "barn auger" wannabee is a Bates. the 3 that look like jennings...are P.S. & W. Co. bits. :rolleyes:

Largest of the bits is a #20 :eek:

Looks like the #21 and the #22 will share that moving cutter....
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As the cutter from the #1 won't quite work.
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That strange looking bit in the middle? is stamped as a "12"....but, I don't think it means 12/16" =3/4":rolleyes:
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Spade bit, hex shank...no spurs. :confused:
Concrete Drill bit....cleaned from the 1/2" shank down to the carbide cutter....only to find a chip out on one edge...junk.:mad:
Smallest bit right now is that #4....4/16" :cool:
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These? Looks like he had cut them down, for use in 3 jaw chucks....like a breast drill? may test that out, later...:cool:
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Millers Falls No. 120, might just do the trick...:confused:.
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As they may be too big for the Millers Falls No. 2-01? :rolleyes:
Legs are sore, and crampy today.:mad:...may take the day off....knee get worked on/over tomorrow....will see how THAT goes...:o
May "rinse out" the soap from inside the case..
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Dry it out, sand things a bit smoother....then prime and paint? need to figure out a latch, and maybe a handle, or two?
Stay tuned..:D

[steven c newman]

Box was soaked over night....Oxyclean....this morning it got a HOT water rinse....then this afternoon, got dried off/out..
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Let the sunshine further dry it off...tried to find the right can of paint...found it, but was soooo old, it didn't work...so...basic black for now?:rolleyes:
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Might have some black metal handle to attach at the ends...
Stay tuned....right now, letting 85 degree, and full sunshine "bake" the Rustoleum in place....haven't done the inside..yet..

[steven c newman]

May need to find a second such box,,,,couple of finds today need a home..
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These were taped together as a "bundle"...$1..
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Another place, the seller had "dumpster-dived" and found a table full of Kobalt, Bosch, and Stanley tools....this was also in the pile...1/8" round-over bit....might find a use for it...$4

Can always use screws....bag for $4?
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Might come in handy...

[steven c newman]

As for that $1 saw?
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This might take a bit of work...maybe?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Wow, that is a nice haul. On my next trip out to your shop, you might be asking me.....

"Is that a saw and a bunch of augers you sneaking out in your pants, or are you happy to see me?"

Be sure to post the saw after you clean it up.

If the teeth are really out of control, you might be able to use a vice to move them back. I think the trick was that you placed some paper (couple of sheets) on each side so that the teeth could dig into the paper, but, it would still close them up a bit.

One of those bits looks like a HUGE screw removal bit. Any thoughts on what it is?

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[steven c newman]

That be a BIG Masonry bit....tossed into the trash, as it is un-safe to use...just a tease..
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they are all cleaned up,,,next will be...
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Me....

[steven c newman]

The stubby bits ? Tried one out...
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Goodell Pratt Co. brace...seemed to hold the bit well enough..
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Bit seemed to be sharp enough..
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May keep them around..
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Bits are all cleaned up...sizes range from 4/16" to 20/16"....#4, #5, #6, #7, #8, #10, #12, #14, and that #20...
Bates, irwins, P.S.&W., Fulton, MY-T-CO, Craftsman ( spade bit and a irwin made one)....need to get the box finished up, and stash these away, until called for...

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Masonry bit, would not have guessed, but, it makes sense.

Those bits cleaned up well.

[steven c newman]

Saw's brass is cleaned up. Handle sanded LIGHTLY. Plate is cleaned up...too faint of an etch to read..
Plate is now it the "hands" of Mr. Wentworth...got about 6" of teeth done...calling it a day...

So, Andrew...when are you planning on showing up?

[steven c newman]

had a party to go to...all dressed up...banned from the shop, until I get me work clothes back on...

Handle does have a coat or two of Amber Shellac on it...

Box is done, installed a 1/4" plywood floor in the box....install a handle on each end....trying to figure out a latch for the lid....Box has been loaded up....

[Andrew Pitonyak]

had a party to go to...all dressed up...banned from the shop, until I get me work clothes back on...

When I shot photos and videos for my in-laws 50th anniversary party, it was dictated to me that I would wear a fancy suit. I was the best dressed person there. I was also the only person rolling around on the floor to get the right shot. It was kind of nuts. Have not work the suit since.

[steven c newman]

Trying to save up, for West Liberty, OH....seems they have a Tractor Fest each Labor Day weekend....LOTS of old tool vendors....

Drill bit box is "handled"
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has a handle at both ends...as you will need them...
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Box has a 1/4" thick wood floor...May add some on the ends...
This tool was in use, the other day..
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My saw file holder. And the vise..
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Handle for the saw was given a coat of Amber Shellac, and the bolts have been shined up..
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Can just see them, over the "old" teeth..
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New teeth...may need a second run through....
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might rehab these 3, after the saw...
Stay tuned...

[steven c newman]

Took Monday off from the shop....Tuesday the knee gets PT, again...will see how that goes, before I head to the shop....

Uncle Charles ( horse) is not a nice way to wake up, in the morning....

Have about 6" out of 24" of teeth filed...couple of which will need a second "hit"....and better light.

[steven c newman]

Right leg has "issues"....a skin infection....have it wrapped up, and the proper pills taken....will see how things go, by this Friday...

[steven c newman]

Need a new saw file. May start sharpening hand plane irons after that....some MIGHT need a touch up.....

Knee Rehab in a little bit...then see what the Boss wants to do...

[steven c newman]

Still have about 6" worth of teeth to reshape, but....
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Starting to look a bit like a saw? Plate is 23-1/2" long.....

[steven c newman]

Ok..sharpening is on hold for a few days, until a new file gets here....

This morning...stopped at a few garage sales....kind of skimpy....spent a dollar bill. Got the ''treasure" home, and cleaned it all up...then outside for a couple photos...
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Seems to be marked as a BELKNAP or NAPMAKER No. 17.
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7 ppi, filed rip. never had a medallion bolt. 3 bolts, steel, never been plated. 26" length. Still trying to bring out the etch a bit better...

haven't sharpened it yet..test drive went great,,once a bit of wax was applied. Cuts fast, and straight...handle has about 3 coats of amber shellac.
Stay tuned...:D

[Stew Denton]

Steven, how will you bring out the etch? Cold blue?

Regards,

Stew

[steven c newman]

Upon further review....
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Have narrowed things down to a "CRUSADER" brand name, sold by Belknap....?

Black Sharpie, block of wood, 220 grit paper...hand sanding....

[Tony Shea]

Steven, def check out some saw sharpening links. I would also buy some flat mill bastard files and use a block of wood to joint those teeth before just going at them with a saw file. This will enable you to get the tops of the teeth all at the same level so every tooth is doing work instead of just the random high teeth. I also use Dykem layout fluid to help me see when I reach the tip of the flat that I created with the flat file from jointing. A sharpie can serve the same purpose.

I would also highly recommend making a block of wood for the tip of the file to help you hold the proper rake angle. You basically drill a hole on a small piece of wood that the tip of the file will fit into and draw the rake angle tangent to the hole. Then you drive the file into that hole so that the face of the file that is doing the sharpening is parallel to this line. Now you just hold this piece of wood parallel to the bench (or floor) and this will enable you to maintain a consistent rake angle on the face of every tooth. There are jigs out there that serve the same purpose but I find using a piece of wood to work just as well. You can also use this same technique for crosscut saws and cut the fleam angle on the ends of this piece of wood. You just hold this piece of wood so that the angled ends are 90deg to your saw plate and hold that for the entire file stroke. You just have to be sure to change to a different piece of wood or rotate the file when you sharpen the other side of the crosscut teeth. It's hard to describe this little jig in words but there are lots of places you can find it. It really changed my saw sharpening consistency.

You also will need a saw set. A well set saw for its intended purpose is a thing of beauty.

Last bit of advise is to get yourself a magnifier headstrap. This thing has paid for itself over and over in my shop!!

Here's a link to great resource on saw sharpening. There are countless tutorials out there for sharpening handsaws. They are a little tricky to get the hang of but once you use a very well sharpened saw compared to an iffy sharpening job you will never want to let your saws get dull. Once you get the teeth reshaped and set properly, maintaining this tooth geometry with just some small touch ups goes really quickly. It's just like setting up new chisels or plane blades, once you get the back of them flat your will just need to concentrate on maintaining your bevel angle.

http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html

[steven c newman]

Have a Mill file.Used it on the Panel saw.....

Have a bright spotlight that I can shine across the teeth, to see how they are coming out....and a hand-held magnifier, to see the teeth.

The newest saw, the Crusader, does not need all that much sharpening done.....just a refresh.

Saw set is in the house...Millers Falls made. #214......

Dykem? I have been just letting the rust do that....

Tooth counts above 8ppi....I start to see double....so that a 11ppi looks like 22....I send those to a sharpening service @ $0.60 per inch.

It is not so much a matter of handles....it is more about holding onto them....fingers tend to get crampy, after a while

Saw vise is a Wentworth No. 1.....

I sharpen saws when they are rehabbed, and they seem to stay sharp for a year, or two. Mostly, it is about fixing other peoples screw-ups.....

Already tried out the 18" or so of the panel saw I have sharpened up.....cuts fast, and straight...just a tad rough....will stone it, after the rest of the teeth are done.

Saw files? Stanley 5, or 6" Extra Slim taper....@$6.00 each. Been getting 4-5 saws per file. About time for a new one...

[steven c newman]

Also, at the same garage sale as the Belknap rip saw....was a Jorgenson Mitre Box.....almost like the one I already had....
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This is the one I have...and is nicer than the one at the sale, yesterday....plus, will-power to keep from buying any more mitre boxes.....5 is enough, right?:rolleyes:

[steven c newman]

Was in Menard's today, to pick up a 6" extra slim taper file..usually bought a Stanley one.....except...they no longer had Stanley files....they were all branded as Craftsman..$5.99...about the same price as the Stanley version I had been using...

Also picked up a can of Turtle wax Polishing Compound,,,,going to try it on a couple saws, to shine the plates up a bit better....we'll see...

Took a bad tumble last night...kind of bruised up, and sore...found out I don't bounce...

Stay tuned...

[steven c newman]

Rehab on the Sheffield saw is done.
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And is now hanging up with the other 3 panel saws...

Film at 2300 hrs, ZULU...

[steven c newman]

Tools used..
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Millers Falls No. 214 was a bit too big for this saw. Yes, I do have a few mill files in the shop. had to change out the Stanley saw file...4 and a half saw plates was a bit too much for it. New file is from Craftsman....with a Lifetime Warranty.... Plate was shined up, using this stuff..
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Seems to work...
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Jointed the bad teeth...
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Almost done...went back and fine tuned a few...
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Looks like it will be a Carpentry Saw...until I get around to sharpening it again....have a Disston D-8, 10ppi, 24" for the finer cuts...

Might try the Crusader saw, in the morning....at least get it polished up.
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26" Rip saw...maybe the M-F 214 can give the teeth a bit of set...IF needed.
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6 ppi.....a No. 17 sold by Belknap ( which later became Blue Grass tools)

[steven c newman]

Polishing is done on the Belknap No. 17 Crusader saw...
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Saw has been taken for a test drive...
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Of about 10 full strokes...a little rub with the old candle helped out...Results?
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Plate is stamped as a "7"...7ppi.
Cleaned and oiled up the Millers Falls No. 214...in case I might need it..
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Anvil setting is a "8" on the dial....not sure if that will work...or not...
have no clue as to that screwdriver, at the moment....OEM paint job looking a tad...scruffy..
hang the saw up, until needed.

Not too bad of a saw..for a dollar bill?

[steven c newman]

Still have a few rehabs to do...but,
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1 of 5 Block planes is now done. Stanley made a 220 model, Geo. Worthington Co. had it set up to sell as a W2200.
May work on some of these...when I next get to the shop..
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Hmm...messy. Will save the 5th one for last...
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Great Neck Tool Co.'s knock-off of a Stanley No. 9-1/2....sole needs a lot of work..
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Ya think?

Stay tuned..