Prepare threaded rod and nut for epoxy

[Rob Marshall]

Hi,

This is a follow-on to my other thread about using a coupling nut with a threaded rod for a leveling platform for a job-site table saw. I want to be able to use epoxy to permanently affix two nuts (one above and one below the platform with the table saw on it) to the threaded rod. What do I need to do to prepare the rod and nut so that the epoxy will best be able to bond to the material?

Thanks,

Rob

[Jerome Stanek]

would locktite red work

[Rob Marshall]

I already have some West Systems G/Flex epoxy which they say should work. But the threads appear to have some sort of lubricant on them which I assume needs to be removed where the nuts will get epoxied into place. I assume some sort of cleaner/solvent and toothbrush...

[lowell holmes]

I would experiment to see how it works.

[David Buchhauser]

I already have some West Systems G/Flex epoxy which they say should work. But the threads appear to have some sort of lubricant on them which I assume needs to be removed where the nuts will get epoxied into place. I assume some sort of cleaner/solvent and toothbrush...

Hi Rob,
I would recommend cleaning the parts with lacquer thinner. Pour some of the lacquer thinner into a jar, then put the nuts and the ends of the rods into the jar and use a small brush to thoroughly clean them. I would use Loctite blue 242 thread locker to attach the nuts to the rods. The 242 is removable just in case you need to make some changes later.
David

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[Al Launier]

You could also drill a hole through both the nut(s) & the rod & use a press fit pin to hold the assembly tightly in place.

[Rob Marshall]

If I'm reading the description of the Loctite blue correctly, it probably wouldn't be appropriate for what I want to do since I want to permanently attach the nuts and the loctite seems to allow for removing them.

As to drilling a hole, I don't have a drill press and I don't know if I would be able to hold the drill steady enough to drill a straight hole through both the nut and rod. Although, if I did have a drill press, that seems like a good way to do it.

Thanks,

Rob

[Jerome Stanek]

You could also use 2 nuts to lock together

[David Buchhauser]

If I'm reading the description of the Loctite blue correctly, it probably wouldn't be appropriate for what I want to do since I want to permanently attach the nuts and the loctite seems to allow for removing them.

As to drilling a hole, I don't have a drill press and I don't know if I would be able to hold the drill steady enough to drill a straight hole through both the nut and rod. Although, if I did have a drill press, that seems like a good way to do it.

Thanks,

Rob

The blue loctite will lock the threads and not come loose unless you put some wrenches on the nuts and force them loose. Otherwise, I would recommend using some Nyloc nuts. These are lock nuts with nylon inserts that will not come loose unless you force them with wrenches. You could also "double-nut" as was suggested earlier.

If you really want to "permanently" attach the nuts to the rods, then I would suggest welding them together.

[Tom M King]

Acetone should clean them.

[Jacob Reverb]

Any decent degreaser should work -- brake cleaner, acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.

[Keith Pitman]

You could also use 2 nuts to lock together

+2 . . . Use a jam nut.

[Mike Kees]

Rob if you want permanent no movement then red loctite is the one to use. The blue would probably work as well as others have said. Pick one they are both a way better option than epoxy.

[Rob Marshall]

Since I have some left over parts from my initial failed attempt with a 3/4"-10 rod, I will try to clean them with acetone and try the loctite red and see how that works. I wasn't sure if it needed the primer/activator but I ordered some of that as well just in case.

Thanks,

Rob

[michael langman]

Brake cleaner at the auto parts store is a good metal cleaner. And cheap. Loctite makes good products for your application. The red would be better for the larger bolt thread 3/4 10.

[Lee Schierer]

If I'm reading the description of the Loctite blue correctly, it probably wouldn't be appropriate for what I want to do since I want to permanently attach the nuts and the loctite seems to allow for removing them.

Thanks,

Rob

The red loctite will work for you. The only way to remove the nut once it sets is with heat over 300F.

[Ken Combs]

I would clean in two steps. First with a petroleum based solvent, then dry and clean with alcohol. All petroleum bases will leave a trace coating, alcohol will remove and dry to a clean surface. I also recommend Loctite, blue or red. Red is permanent, but can be removed after heating the part. Doesn't take a lot of heat, like enough to damage metal temper or change its' color.

[Rick Potter]

Come on Rob. You know you need a drill press anyway, right?:D

I just checked my local Craig List, and found 8 of them for $30-55. A $40 one had 3/4 HP motor and 5/8" chuck.

Just an alternative suggestion.;)

[David Buchhauser]

The red loctite will work for you. The only way to remove the nut once it sets is with heat over 300F.
Lee,
A couple of wrenches will do it too. I am speaking from years of experience with Red LocTite (as well as the other colors).
David

[Rob Marshall]

Hi,

Sorry should have gotten back to this but it took me a while to do some testing. I used acetone to clean the nut and threaded rod. I tested both West System epoxy (G/Flex) and the red Loctite. Both seemed to work pretty well and would work for my application.

Thanks for all the help,

Rob

[David Buchhauser]

Hi Rob,
Please post some photo of your finished project when you get to that point.
Thanks,
David

[Vince Shriver]

Since I have some left over parts from my initial failed attempt with a 3/4"-10 rod, I will try to clean them with acetone and try the loctite red and see how that works. I wasn't sure if it needed the primer/activator but I ordered some of that as well just in case.



Rob

Rob, I don't think Locktite benefits from an activator (like ca glue) or primer -- no need for it