Mark Singer
12-13-2005, 9:10 AM
<HR style="COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->With all the recent questions about this system I thought this might help...there are many Creekers with lots if experience and far better equipment than me...please feel free to add or correct me..
32 MM Overview
This is based on a frameless Euro system...it can be done with face frames...I have never done it that way..The vertical sides of each cabinet have holes drilled at 32mm apart. These holes are typically set back 37mm from the front face of the carcass. The Clip on the Blum and Grass and other hinges is drilled at 37 mm setback and the holes are 32 mm apart. So that row of holes will exactly hold the clips that hold the hinges in the correct position. It takes 2 holes per clip and the hinge centers are half way betwenn a pair of holes. To correctly align the cups they need to be drilled some multiple of 32 mm apart so the cup holes that go into the door allign with the spacing module of the holes in the carcass.
Besides hinges the 32 mm spacing supports most of the accessories that are part of the Euro system, including shelf pins, pull out baskets, trash bins, mixer shelves , tray dividers, corner lazy susan units, etc.
Sometimes a second row , or actually the primary row is drilled at 64 mm setback and only the hinge support holes are drilled at the 37mm setback. That way the hinges never get in the way of the shelf supports.
The most important planning for the system is done laying it all out on the carcass side or partition. Drawer slides, shelf holes , hinge clips should be all layed out to insure they are compatible. This system is like an assembly line. If you do it correctly once....you will save a lot of time and material. If you make a mistake , every panel will be wrong and you wasted a lot of time and material!
All of the panel drilling, hinge mounting, slide mounting , is done before the carcass is assembled. So you are dealing with flat panels and it goes fast. If you are using pocket holes for the carcass system...they maybe in the way of the bottom drawer slides.....just mount the slide and remove it...then instll that slide after the carcass is assembled...you can do that with all of them...but, locate and drill them when they are unasembled panels. Tip: If the pocket holes are in a carcass with a bottom drawer they will be hidden by the drawer....so plan your pocket hole drilling carefully. Also all"end of cabinet" panels are hidden since they are a sub side and are covered with a finished end.
Overlay and degrees
There are so many options for clips it can get confusing. A 3/4" carcass should have a 5/16" overlay this allows 1/8" gap between doors and there is a lot of adjustment in the hinge. There are also 2 variations of this clip....one for regular screws and one for "system" screws. If you drill all your holes for self pins and want to use those for hinges you need the "system" screws which are stubby and the clips are designed for them. Other wise use the clips for regular screws.
Degrees of hinge opening...I like the 120 Blum and will use a 105 degree if I am up against a wall. There are many others...170..back to back tandem...45 degree clips for mitered corners.
Hinges per door...for normal weight doors 24" wide 36" high 2 hinges any thing larger 3 hinges.Full height pantry style...usually 4 or 5 hinges.
I will add some pics to this to explain later...a pic is worth a 1000 mis drilled holes at 32mm:confused:
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32 MM Overview
This is based on a frameless Euro system...it can be done with face frames...I have never done it that way..The vertical sides of each cabinet have holes drilled at 32mm apart. These holes are typically set back 37mm from the front face of the carcass. The Clip on the Blum and Grass and other hinges is drilled at 37 mm setback and the holes are 32 mm apart. So that row of holes will exactly hold the clips that hold the hinges in the correct position. It takes 2 holes per clip and the hinge centers are half way betwenn a pair of holes. To correctly align the cups they need to be drilled some multiple of 32 mm apart so the cup holes that go into the door allign with the spacing module of the holes in the carcass.
Besides hinges the 32 mm spacing supports most of the accessories that are part of the Euro system, including shelf pins, pull out baskets, trash bins, mixer shelves , tray dividers, corner lazy susan units, etc.
Sometimes a second row , or actually the primary row is drilled at 64 mm setback and only the hinge support holes are drilled at the 37mm setback. That way the hinges never get in the way of the shelf supports.
The most important planning for the system is done laying it all out on the carcass side or partition. Drawer slides, shelf holes , hinge clips should be all layed out to insure they are compatible. This system is like an assembly line. If you do it correctly once....you will save a lot of time and material. If you make a mistake , every panel will be wrong and you wasted a lot of time and material!
All of the panel drilling, hinge mounting, slide mounting , is done before the carcass is assembled. So you are dealing with flat panels and it goes fast. If you are using pocket holes for the carcass system...they maybe in the way of the bottom drawer slides.....just mount the slide and remove it...then instll that slide after the carcass is assembled...you can do that with all of them...but, locate and drill them when they are unasembled panels. Tip: If the pocket holes are in a carcass with a bottom drawer they will be hidden by the drawer....so plan your pocket hole drilling carefully. Also all"end of cabinet" panels are hidden since they are a sub side and are covered with a finished end.
Overlay and degrees
There are so many options for clips it can get confusing. A 3/4" carcass should have a 5/16" overlay this allows 1/8" gap between doors and there is a lot of adjustment in the hinge. There are also 2 variations of this clip....one for regular screws and one for "system" screws. If you drill all your holes for self pins and want to use those for hinges you need the "system" screws which are stubby and the clips are designed for them. Other wise use the clips for regular screws.
Degrees of hinge opening...I like the 120 Blum and will use a 105 degree if I am up against a wall. There are many others...170..back to back tandem...45 degree clips for mitered corners.
Hinges per door...for normal weight doors 24" wide 36" high 2 hinges any thing larger 3 hinges.Full height pantry style...usually 4 or 5 hinges.
I will add some pics to this to explain later...a pic is worth a 1000 mis drilled holes at 32mm:confused:
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