Workbench build questoin Bench bolts/Cross dowel nuts layout

[John Stankus]

I have been finally working on the legs of my workbench build (my projects move in geologic time...start of the top was three or four years ago :o )

Two questions
1. I have the bench bolts from Lee Valley, but am not sure on laying it out. I have been assuming that the hole for the cross dowel nut is cut for the bolt to have the full set of threads engaged at nominal spacing. Legs are 3 x 3, so this would put the center of the cross dowel nut 2 1/2 inch from the edge of the stretcher. (Lee Valley bolts are 6 inch long with 1 inch diameter cross dowel nut. I assume that I also need to cut some clearance on the other side of the cross dowel nut for the bolt as it comes out the other side. Is this the correct layout for these?

2. I was planning on using a 2 x 10 as the stretcher. (actually a 1.5 x 9.25 <-- not sure where the other quarter inch went) . Is that a reasonable size for a handtool bench to limit racking? or is it overkill?

Thanks

John

edit: whoops realized I had ordered the 3/8 x 5 bolts and nuts from Lee Valley not the 1/2 x 6. So I think that would be 1 5/8 in from the end of the stretcher. (or do I need to go get the bigger bolts?)
(Also- wish I could fix the misspelling in the title ...oh well)

[Mike Kees]

John I have used these bolts in constructing beds. The only thing that would change is if you recess the bolt head into your bench legs. Other than that you are on the right track.

[Paul F Franklin]

In one of the workbench build videos on the FWW site, Matt Kenney showed a way to make sure the bolt hole and cross dowel hole meet properly. I will try to describe: Imagine a tuning fork shaped thing with two dowels for the forks. The dowels are spaced so when one is inserted in the bore for the bolt, the other will be just outside the surface of the stretcher. Bore the bolt hole, insert the dowel thingy, and mark the exact center of the bore for cross dowel using the exposed dowel. The idea is that it is difficult to bore a long hole in end grain without a little bit of drift, especially since it will likely be bored with a hand held drill. If you drill the cross dowel hole assuming the bolt hole is in the exact center of the stretcher, they may not line up well. Since the two dowels are parallel (assuming you make the tuning fork thingy properly) the visible dowel will be aligned with the hidden dowel in the bolt hole and you can mark the center line of the cross dowel bore off the visible dowel.

[Tom Bender]

I like the tuning fork tool but have an improvement to suggest. Say the hole is 3/4", make the tool with 3/4" x 1/8" flat metal. File or grind a little as needed to fit into the hole. Bend it into a U shape with the minimum space inside. In the outside drill small holes where you want to cross drill and mark thru them.

Now rethink this in wood if you prefer.