Finish for walnut bowl

[Jim Hipp]

I have just finished my 1st walnut bowl and although it looks nice it needs a finish to enhance the piece. Sort of make the grain pop.

I was considering BLO or gloss WOP but would like some advice. So what are people using using and happy with?

2nd? Where does the purple color come from in walnut and will it last?

Thanks for any suggestions or answers.

[Richard Madden]

I have used WOP, danish oil, antique oil, shellac and a couple others I can't think of right now. Happy with all of them. Just pick one and see how you like it. I have turned lots of walnut, but I don't remember seeing purple color, so I can't help with that.

[Dan Gaylin]

I have just finished my 1st walnut bowl and although it looks nice it needs a finish to enhance the piece. Sort of make the grain pop.

I was considering BLO or gloss WOP but would like some advice. So what are people using using and happy with?

2nd? Where does the purple color come from in walnut and will it last?

Thanks for any suggestions or answers.

Hi Jim. I love turning and finishing walnut. I’ve tried a lot of finishes and my favorite for walnut is the Sutherland and Wells polymerized tung oil. I use the botanical solvent based product but the mineral spirit based one is fine too depending on your desires. It’s pricey but a little goes a long way. Takes a number of costs but very easy to apply. Has a beautiful natural luster, brings out the grain, warms up the wood color and looks very “natural” not plasticky

Enjoy!

-dan

[Don McClure]

Walnut is a very open pore wood which will require multiple coats of any finish to fill and flatten surface. One way to help is to wet sand with BLO/ mineral spirits ( 50/50%) up to 600-800 then wipe clean with either more BLO or mineral spirits. Let this thoroughly dry which may take several days, then apply either wipe on PU or rattle can lacquer. I prefer a flat finish as opposed to mirror like.

[Jim Hipp]

I did a wet sand with mineral spirits and the end grain turned almost black. Have you had the same experience?

[John Keeton]

I would suggest you wet sand with the finish you intend to use, diluted slightly with the appropriate thinner. For WOP, use mineral spirits and dilute it by about 25%. Wet sand beginning at 150, wipe off the slurry with a paper towel at a moderate speed, and immediately repeat thru 400 grit. On the last sanding, spin it somewhat faster and burnish the slurry. It will take 2-3 days to cure, but it fills the pores and provides a good base for finish coats.

The purple color will fade into more of a brown, but black walnut ages to an amber regardless of the chocolate/purple color of the freshly cut wood. The rapidity at which this happens depends on exposure to light. If only one side gets exposure, you will notice a difference in color on the back side.

[Jim Hipp]

It is disappointing to learn that the purple color will fade. But that is wood!
I tuned a segmented bowl many years ago and use some purple heart as accent pieces. Look really striking for a few weeks and then it was gone.
Good tip on burnishing the final sanding.

[Jim Hipp]

Thanks to all for the comments.

[robert baccus]

Fastest finish for open porewood is 2 coats of heavy bodied sanding sealer ( Mohawk is good) sanded down level--2 coats of pre-cata ized lacquer (Mohawk) wet sanded to 320 grit-- compounded to the gloss or flat you prefere. (car finishing compound) followed by Good Carnuba liquid car wax. Maybe 3 hours max. All pores leveled and to your gloss preference. Old Forester

[Jim Hipp]

Wet sanding through the grits did a good job and I will use it often I am sure. However, I haven't found a way to introduce the diluted finish to the spinning piece without making an unholy mess. I diluted the finish in a small 2-3 oz. jar with a popup spout but even attempting to dilute the mixture was messy. It would probably be better to dilute a large amount of product and find some way to get it on the work piece.

Tips anyone?

[John Keeton]

Jim, I don't apply the diluted finish while the piece is spinning. With the lathe at rest I apply a light coat of it - just enough to provide some lubrication for the sanding process and to create a slurry. Then, I wet the sandpaper with the diluted finish and begin sanding the piece with the lathe turning slowly. As the slurry develops the speed can be increased, but there is no need in going fast. Also, keep the sandpaper moving on the piece so that a discernible scratch pattern is not developed.

[Dave Fritz]

I've experienced white spots after buffing with white diamond so now skip that when buffing out walnut. I wonder if finishing like John does would seal the pores enough so white diamond spots wouldn't be a problem?

[John Keeton]

I have no difficulty buffing finished walnut with white diamond, however, my finishing process results in a very smooth surface. If the applied finish is intended to leave more of a “natural” finish then the concerns about having spots in the pores would certainly be valid.